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Addicted to Junk
85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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what about 78-79 im having a hard time finding lift info for them. how much lift does 35 or 37s need? i think a 6" should be good. but i want to keep it low but no rubbing
6" for 35s. I've got 28s on my 78 f150 and there isn't a giant amount of room

Does anyone have a rough measurements of how high the tailgate,door sill and roof is after a 6" lift on 35"s? I know spring sag and tire brand will impact these, I am already thinking the 6" kit I got will be to high for my needs and a 4" would be better suited for me and my short legs.
I'll say that my 94 with new 4" lift including leaf springs and 35" tires was 7'2". Had to flip the kc lights down to get in my 8ft door.
 

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buy front components only?

I'm hoping to swap the 1986 Bronco I just bought over to 1 ton running gear next year, but I want to drive it some and feel it out first. I have to buy tires right off the bat, and I would like to go ahead and put a set of 33's on it. I like the idea of a shackle flip for the rear, so I can either check with a buddy of mine's boneyard, or buy one from Sky. Question is, if I go that route, what is the best be for the front that won't break the bank? As it sits nose down, I would guess a six inch lift spring for the front? Either go to Chevy TRE's moved on top along with a dropped pitman arm? What else would I need, other than shocks?
 

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Addicted to Junk
85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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You must either get drop brackets for the TTBs and radius arms, which is the cheap route.

Alternatively you could get extended radius arms and cut & turned beams, which is not cheap.

Save your money for the solid axle. They aren't cheap either.
 

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You must either get drop brackets for the TTBs and radius arms, which is the cheap route.

Alternatively you could get extended radius arms and cut & turned beams, which is not cheap.

Save your money for the solid axle. They aren't cheap either.
So for now, just do a mild level up front? 2 inch springs and alignment bushings and a set of 33's for now?
 

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I'm hoping to swap the 1986 Bronco I just bought over to 1 ton running gear next year, but I want to drive it some and feel it out first. I have to buy tires right off the bat, and I would like to go ahead and put a set of 33's on it. I like the idea of a shackle flip for the rear, so I can either check with a buddy of mine's boneyard, or buy one from Sky. Question is, if I go that route, what is the best be for the front that won't break the bank? As it sits nose down, I would guess a six inch lift spring for the front? Either go to Chevy TRE's moved on top along with a dropped pitman arm? What else would I need, other than shocks?
You dont need a lift to clear 33's. If your going to be SAS'ing it throw some cheap leveling spacers in it and leave it alone until you put a different axle under it.
 

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Addicted to Junk
85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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^^^^ nailed it on the head ^^^^
 

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OK, soo after many days of reading and clicking links, I think I have the gist of this posting, please confirm if I am correct:

SAS is the way to go, but keeping the TTB, there are basically two options:

1. Cut and Turned Beams: https://www.solomotorsports.com/shop/suspension-kits/ford/bronco-f150/stage-1-mid-travel-front-suspension-kit-bronco-f150/)

2. Drop Brackets: Buy a kit or piece together a kit from multiple sources to get the best of all worlds ( Superlift brackets, Procomp springs, etc) since Rancho et al no longer makes the kits for these.

Based on this information, I think; for the money, Option one is the way to go, (4" lift in the front as per the link above, Deaver 4" 10leaf springs in the rear). Tuff country was a close second IMO because it is adjustable for caster, but with shocks and extended radius arms it is not that much less than Solo's.

My concerns for the Solo kit is how is the durability of the center u joint? Can one run the steering tie rod flip on 4"? Also I've read that Rancho adjustable shocks are a better ride, is there any comparison to the Bilsteins that some one can chime in on?

BTW, my build is for mild off road, mostly street driven and I plan to keep this one for the foreseeable future so I want to lift it once and be done. Hopefully with minimal alignment issues, and result in a good drive able machine,.
 

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Addicted to Junk
85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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11,519 Posts

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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" lift on 33's
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I haven't done it yet... but I've been putting parts together and preparing for a 4" lift since before I got my new (2 me) '95 w/6" lift. Still plan to use the 4" though.

I'm planning on the TRE flip w/my 4" lift, so I'm pretty sure you're good to go with that angle. I had to pickup a stock pitman arm, to replace the extended one that came w/the 6" lift though.

I chose to go with the shackle flip brackets in the rear end on my rig, after I pull the blocks. I chose that route over the leafs to try and maintain the stock ride quality. My rig is going to be used, pretty much the same as yours and I've heard/read and even have a local FSB buddy that went with leafs and found they stiffened up the ride more than they cared for. 1 thing I didn't realize until recently though... with the shackle flip brackets, the rear axle kinda "swings" down and moves the axle off-center/forward in the wheel well. The solution is picking up a set of "zero-rate" blocks, to move the axle back on the leaf pack, about 1". :beer

Most drop brackets are setup for 4" or 6" lifts, so I'll be re-using mine when I lower but I hear great things around the cut/turn setup, if you can afford it. :toothless
I also picked up all the Bilstein shocks but haven't installed them or used Rancho's either. My local FSB buddy, @RicoBronco refurbed a set of the adjustable Rancho's and seems to like 'em though.
 

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Yeah I have been looking at the shackle flip, is there a good thread here to follow? Brackets vs. F250 parts. I also installed higher count rear springs on my 70' Z28 because they were "supposed" to be softer.. NOT. I am just not a fan of blocks hence the replacement path. Right now I have 3 trucks to pull parts from so trying to get the best of them together to make one. quick ? I have 3 sets of hubs locks ( 2 auto one 5 bolt / one 3 bolt ) and a manual set ( 6 bolt). I think I want to go to manual hubs but which is better? 3, 5 , 6 bolts? (and why so many types?

I do not mind spending the jack to make it right, just have some trepidation as I've been there done that on other builds. This one I am trying to stick to a budget. (building it right of course)
 

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with the shackle flip brackets, the rear axle kinda "swings" down and moves the axle off-center/forward in the wheel well. The solution is picking up a set of "zero-rate" blocks, to move the axle back on the leaf pack, about 1". :beer
hold the phone. what?! so you can do a shackle flip and keep the back axle from shifting forward damn, that's awesome!
 

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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" lift on 33's
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Yeah I have been looking at the shackle flip, is there a good thread here to follow?
Pretty sure we've got a few sitting around here. Keep searching, there out there... trust me, I've been reading everyone I could find for the last few years. :brownbag
And yes, I'm painfully slow at any modification that don't threaten to put my FSB out of commission. :whiteflag

hold the phone. what?! so you can do a shackle flip and keep the back axle from shifting forward damn, that's awesome!
Are you amazed there's a solution or are you amazed I found it without starting a thread and discussing it to death first? :goodfinge :histerica
Seriously though... I had no idea until a few weeks back, searching around to refresh my head on the coming de-lift. Ran across the problem that I hadn't read about before and searched around and found the solution. Ordered the Zero-Rate Blocks 2 days later. Now... if I could just find somebody to put all these parts I've collected on my Bronco, I'd be stylin'. :toothless
 

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Rough Country 4" lift kit

nice post here. Finally looked into this thread. Do any of you guys know alot of the sites for this companies so i could look into a 4" lift? Thanks. Looking to spend maybe around 400-600 bucks and getting a good kit. Thanks.
I just installed the Rough Country 4" lift kit on my 1990 Bronco. My father-in-law and I did it but if you ask me if I'd do it again? Probably not.

4in Suspension Lift Kit for 80-96 Ford 4wd Bronco [465B.20] | Rough Country Suspension Systems®

It's a great kit and went on relatively easy. There was some drilling in some tough to reach places but it looks great. Added some 33x12.5 tires and some new American Racing Baja wheels.

Let me know if you have any questions on the install...

Mike
 

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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" lift on 33's
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aw Mike. a fresh write-up would have been awesome. don't you know...?
:goodfinge

Did you stick with those blocks in the rear or take a better route? why would you not do it again?
you'd rather pay someone else or was there an issue with the lift? you gotta give some details after you drop a statement like that.
 

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Well I think I am going to pull the trigger on the Solo Motorsports Stage one kit today. It is a lot of coin considering that the other "4" shocks to complete the system "and match" add another $475 and then there is shipping both ways and the core.....Benefit is I will have all new front end after I am done!

https://www.solomotorsports.com/shop/suspension-kits/ford/bronco-f150/stage-1-mid-travel-front-suspension-kit-bronco-f150/

For the rear I am going to keep the stock springs for the ride characteristics, towing capability and do a shackle flip kit, this one is adjustable so once I get the frame back from powder-coating if I need to "tune" the ride height I can w/o drilling extra holes.

BRONCOAIR SHACKLE REVERSE BRACKETS

Can anyone explain to me in simple terms what a zero rate block is ( I assume it is not wedge shaped like the stock one) but how can it help move the axle back?

I do have some remaining questions / thoughts for those who have this setup / components and history.

1) Since I compared the Tuff Country / JBJ's bracket system with adding Bilstein 5100s (assume $80/shock) comes to ~$1750. the Solo kit is not that much more. (about $400 extra plus shipping) . That being said it would seem that the consensus here for a TTB this the better way to go. My goal is to make a good reliable (lifted) daily driver with 33's and some possible mild trails rides, (no rock crawling intended). I cannot see the benefit in doing the SAS for this truck as I think it adds more complexity and work for something that should be ok for what I intend to do with it. (take to baseball practice, skiiing, the beach, etc), after what its costing to repaint I will not bang it up on a trail, I'll buy another one for that!

2) What is the difference between Bilsteins 5100s? I talked to Solo yesterday and they said it was valving and travel they've tuned over the years for the best ride... I get it, but just seems high (250/pair) when online they are ~ 160/pair (+/-). Not a deal breaker, just was hoping someone who has the 5100 series could chime in and give me some insight , thoughts, again dont want to skimp here and regret it later. I have FOX 2.0s on my 3500 and they are good, but I wouldn't say they are GREAT at $600/pair. Anyway for this truck it'll be a buy it once thing so maybe they are worth it.

I know you don't need a lift to run 33's but my last truck was lifted 3"(body lift, I didn't do it) with 33's and that's how I want this one to look /be.

Any been there done thats? Pitfalls? Comments?

I want to order soon, so I can get it all mocked up and send the frame out for coating, Then also send the body out for paint and all i have sitting in my shop is interior and drivetrain. Amazing how much room they take up stripped down!

Brian
 

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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" lift on 33's
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Thank you, that makes sense, I guess I will wait and see how it turns out and then add if I need to relocate the rear axle. I assume that with the 4" front Cut N Turn and shackle flip in the back that I will be close on height.
 

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'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" lift on 33's
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I don't know squat about the cut-n-turn deal. the sky manufac. shackle flip brackets I'm going to use don't have the adjustable options yours do and they claim to net 4.5" of lift from stock in the rear. Add the 1" of the zero-rate block and I may end up a little higher in the rear than I want. At that point... my best probable fix will be to drop the rear axle, relocate the leaf spring mounts to correct for angle and eliminate the stock, angle block. I'm hoping I won't have to take it that far but it's possible.

I haven't dealt with mine yet and won't be for a bit, so the only real advice I can give are plans I've made and parts I've bought based on reading through the forum a couple zillion times.
 
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