Bronco Forum - Full Size Ford Bronco Forum banner

681 - 700 of 705 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
658 Posts
Another issue is whether to get radius arm drop brackets or to get extended radius arms. Extended radius arms can increase flex and offer better ground clearance, but also cost much more. Extended radius arms are also much stronger. Drop down brackets use the stock radius arms and do not offer as much flex or strength or ground clearance but are also much cheaper.
Are the radius arms included in kits from ProComp and Rough Country, etc., going to be extended radius arms? They don't seem to be indicated as such.
Like this kit:

https://skyjacker.com/shop/suspension-lift-kit/284bks-ah/#configuration
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
658 Posts
Thanks. The word "extended" isn't mentioned so I wasn't totally sure.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Been off the Forum for awhile so I dont kno if this question was asked as of yet. I have an '85 Bronco XLT, I'm looking to install a Rough Country 6" lift and a set of 35x12.50x 15's. Do I need to get a drop bracket for the transfer case? I'm getting the leaf springs for the rear end instead of the blocks if that matters. Thanks for any advice
 

·
Ultra Premium Member
1996 EB w/5.8 TOO much lift, 44" Mudders & 5:43-5:38's
Joined
·
5,039 Posts
Been off the Forum for awhile so I dont kno if this question was asked as of yet. I have an '85 Bronco XLT, I'm looking to install a Rough Country 6" lift and a set of 35x12.50x 15's. Do I need to get a drop bracket for the transfer case? I'm getting the leaf springs for the rear end instead of the blocks if that matters. Thanks for any advice
You can change over to an early transmission mount, like from a '68 Mustang; they aren't as tall, so they lower the T-case and give you a better driveshaft angle.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
Does anybody know if I can convert my Rancho 4" lift to a 6" with new springs? I am 90% certain my drop brackets had 2 holes, but I also know rancho didnt make a 6" kit. If not does anyone have the dimension from their 6" lift drop bracket holes to the crossmember that I could use as a quick check?
 

·
Ultra Premium Member
1996 EB w/5.8 TOO much lift, 44" Mudders & 5:43-5:38's
Joined
·
5,039 Posts
I believe you can swap out the front springs and lower the pivot holes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
163 Posts
Are the radius arms included in kits from ProComp and Rough Country, etc., going to be extended radius arms? They don't seem to be indicated as such.
Like this kit:

284BKS-AH - 4 in. Suspension Lift System with Hydro Shocks - Skyjacker Suspensions
CZ,

Did you end up going with this setup? I'm looking at the same kit and trying to decide if it's what I'm looking for. I want a kit that covers pretty much everything and this seems to do that, including the steering stabilizer kit. If anyone has experience with it, love to hear it and might be good info for this thread anyway.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
658 Posts
CZ,

Did you end up going with this setup? I'm looking at the same kit and trying to decide if it's what I'm looking for. I want a kit that covers pretty much everything and this seems to do that, including the steering stabilizer kit. If anyone has experience with it, love to hear it and might be good info for this thread anyway.
I won't be doing any suspension mods until next year I think.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
704 Posts
What’s the general cost to remove the body lift and return to stock? Thanks
I just took mine off while I had some time. It's basically a pain in the arse. And that was with me being able to salvage every body mount hardware in all ten spots. A puller made from a 3-4" long piece of 3.5" OD exhaust tubing and a bar/2x4 is a necessity for the mounts under the front passengers' feet. It's a lot of beating to separate the mounts, a lot of cleanup of the mounts and mounting surfaces to prep for new bushings (including cutting off the "flared" portion of the lower mount), and jacking the body up and down to remove and reinstall the new bushings. Keep in mind, if you reuse the body bushings, you just have to remove the bolts, remove the body spacers, and put shorter bolts back in. It would be much less work than replacing the actual bushings.

And I didn't even mention that other work - gas filler neck, steering shaft, trans linkage (I have an auto), and radiator/fan shroud re-fitment. I'm still working on every one of those items. Note I didn't have transfer case linkage because the PO just cut the tunnel to accommodate the body lift. But now it looks like crap.

All that said, it looks better without the huge gaps between the body and frame and bumpers.

And, in my infinite geniusness, I am going to eventually slap a 6" suspension lift on it and stuff some 35's under it.

This is a handy page for information on the mounts:



Body lift on


Body lift off
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
704 Posts
Has anyone noticed a significant difference in fit, form, or feel between RA lift brackets supplied by some companies and the stock brackets OR stock replacements such as the Moog offerings?

I’m evaluating lift offerings from companies like Superlift and BDS and trying to reconcile if using Moog replacement brackets with a Superlift system is a significant negative relative to the BDS kit with included brackets.

Thanks.
 

·
Addicted to Junk
85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
Joined
·
12,656 Posts
Has anyone noticed a significant difference in fit, form, or feel between RA lift brackets supplied by some companies and the stock brackets OR stock replacements such as the Moog offerings?

I’m evaluating lift offerings from companies like Superlift and BDS and trying to reconcile if using Moog replacement brackets with a Superlift system is a significant negative relative to the BDS kit with included brackets.

Thanks.
You have to use a drop bracket with a lift. Stock replacement are too short. Unless you do a cut n turn lift.

Pro comp brackets are solid, as are skyjacker. Those are the only two I have experience with.

Whoops, I was thinking TTB beam brackets, not RA. Not much experience with RA brackets. Had skyjacker drop brackets on my 94, and a stock style (dunno what they are) with extended radius arms on my 85. The extended arms make for a much smoother ride.
 

·
Registered
1989 Bronco, Eddie Bauer, Raven Black
Joined
·
352 Posts
@BigBlue 94 Been re-learning and reading up on lifts. My steering box is leaking, so I'll need to replace that and the Pitman arm. Might as well at a minimum replace shocks and springs to level her out.

Question: The initial post stated most here remove the front sway bar, that it's not needed...EXCEPT for towing. I do plan to tow a max 24' center console w/single outboard. Any suggestions....I'm running 33×12.5×15s. Only rub the bumper corner at extreme turn. I'd love a 4" lift...but leveling is OK. I also plan on DIY...Shade Tree.

Thanks in advance!
 

·
Registered
95 5.8L MAF XLT, Hedman Shorties/MF SS Y & Muff, E4OD, Man hubs, KYB Quads, 31x10.5x15, 301K miles
Joined
·
867 Posts
If you are doing a lot of off-roading the sway bars are not needed but if doing a lotta pavement driving and towing they are a blessing. You can rig up some quick disconnects for your sway bars if you are a 50/50 on the road/off the road kinda guy! To each his own. Good luck.
 

·
Addicted to Junk
85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
Joined
·
12,656 Posts
@BigBlue 94 Been re-learning and reading up on lifts. My steering box is leaking, so I'll need to replace that and the Pitman arm. Might as well at a minimum replace shocks and springs to level her out.

Question: The initial post stated most here remove the front sway bar, that it's not needed...EXCEPT for towing. I do plan to tow a max 24' center console w/single outboard. Any suggestions....I'm running 33×12.5×15s. Only rub the bumper corner at extreme turn. I'd love a 4" lift...but leveling is OK. I also plan on DIY...Shade Tree.

Thanks in advance!
Definitely want the sway bars towing that big trailer.

I think I'd leave it stock, and trim the bumper or space it out a bit. Now if you wanna start crawling over rocks too, you'll want the 4" lift. Preferably with extended radius arms. They make it ride smoother.

I would replace the bushings in the rear leaf springs with urethane. They will help with some control when towing. And preferably do the same for the TTB pivot and radius arm bushings.

I do not have swaybars on my 85. It's got soft 6" springs and factory leaf springs with add a leaf. It rides like a caddy, but is a small handful at 75mph on the 37s.
 

·
Ultra Premium Member
1996 EB w/5.8 TOO much lift, 44" Mudders & 5:43-5:38's
Joined
·
5,039 Posts
I would never be able to drive my truck at speed without sway bars!
 

·
Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" on 33's
Joined
·
36,196 Posts
FWIW, I'm running a 6" lift of unknown origin (previous install but looks and handles professional) with smaller, 33x12.5x15 DuraTracks. I'm a short and gimpy kinda guy so I'm not looking for major height but the rig loves the wheel clearance and handles like a champ towing and off-roading. My lift appears to have come with a sway-bar extension, so it still fits and works well with the lift. Very simple brackets to do the trick and it works as good as any stocker I've ever owned, actually better than some.

One thing... if you're towing and off-roading, upgrading your gears will net you a lot of satisfaction. I'm currently running w/4.56 gears and a Limited Slip rear end. I can still cruise the highway at 70 mph, running around 2200 rpm so it's pretty comfortable and the gears make such a difference, I regret all the other rigs I never upgraded. Even a good set of 4.10's should give you a very comfortable bump for both, uphill towing and off-roading. Food for thought anyway.

I've also got a good bit of 4" and 5.5" lift parts I was putting together for another FSB I had, before I sold it and bought this one. It's in the For Sale section, so feel free to take a gander... if you're looking.
 
681 - 700 of 705 Posts
Top