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1989 Bronco, Eddie Bauer, Raven Black
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370 Posts
Thanks for the replies. I'm a firm believer in sway bars in road cars/trucks so got confused when I read most remove them. @BikerPepe` I'd be able to climb a 6" lifted Bronc today...BUT...thinking about the "future". Don't know how long "my" suspension is gonna hold up. Built 1961 ☺
 

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Ultra Premium Member
1996 EB w/5.8 TOO much lift, 44" Mudders & 5:43-5:38's
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6,095 Posts
Thanks for the replies. I'm a firm believer in sway bars in road cars/trucks so got confused when I read most remove them. @BikerPepe` I'd be able to climb a 6" lifted Bronc today...BUT...thinking about the "future". Don't know how long "my" suspension is gonna hold up. Built 1961 ☺

I was built in 1960, and I have slightly more than 6" lift, good thing I'm tall....

 

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Addicted to Junk
85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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17,670 Posts
I have 33's sittin on a 1" BL... but the previous owner did that. Also, anyone know what might be the problem with the speedometer dancing?
What year of bronco? That matters in this as some speedometers are electric and some are cable driven.
 

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1990 5.0 XLT, E40D
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51 Posts
My dad had a 4" Rough Country lift put on my 90 Bronco with 35x12.5x15 BFG A/T (KO not KO2) abo 2 years ago. Unfortunately he didn't discuss lift product with me before doing it. He just passed it back to me since he has back issues and cant drive it anymore. Its on blocks in the rear and no extended radius arms, just the drop down. I am trying to use what i got, this is going to be my off-road/camping rig so want it to be good for abo 4 hour drives on road, but better for off-roading.

The lift and tires have abo 20-30 miles on them tops before it sat in the driveway for 2 years. I get tire rubbing on the radius arms (at full turn), would purchasing extended radius arms help? Also since its Rough Country lift, should i stick with purchasing their leafs or should i go with another brand?

Also seems like the radius arms are abo 500-600 and leafs are abo 300-400. almost a grand for replacements, maybe I'm better off purchasing a whole system and taking out the rough country all together?

Thanks
 

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92 5.0, work in progress
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72 Posts
Ok guys, here is the final thread for all 80-96 lift and tire info. I hope that anything replied too will be more info, and we can make it a sticky for new members. Here we go!

There are three different body styles in the 80-96 era. 80-86, 87-91, 92-96. In 1980 FoMoCo introduced a four wheel drive version of their Twin-Traction Beam suspension. This suspension and axle design is normally only recommended for tires up to 35 inches if off-roading is done. Tires up to 38 inches have been run on TTB but it is not recommended for heavy off-roading. The first two years, 80 and 81, the frame was sort of expiramental and is less desirable for off road use. From 80-86 the bodies and fenders were more squared off and the fender openings are generally referred to as being larger than later models. From 87-91 the bodies and fenders were much more rounded, but the grill and frontend was still partially squared off. These models do not have as large of a fender opening. From 92-96 ford made their last broncos, and these included a front end update for a more curvy look. The fender openings stayed the same from the 87-91 model years.

What follows is what size tire you can fit both stock and with the lift amounts listed.

Generally 33 inch tires will fit without rubbing issues except on the radius arms. Some rubbing may occur on the fenders under extreme flex but can be fixed with very minor trimming and if the rubbing occurs on the bumper it can be spaced out to fix this problem. A 4 inch lift can fit 35s with minor trimming but 33s are recommended to alleviate any rubbing issues. A 6 inch lift can fit up to 35 inch tires with minor rubbing if any. Skyjacker makes an 8 inch lift that can be used to fit up to 38 inch tires, but this puts a lot of strain on the TTB axle setup.

Another issue is whether to get radius arm drop brackets or to get extended radius arms. Extended radius arms can increase flex and offer better ground clearance, but also cost much more. Extended radius arms are also much stronger. Drop down brackets use the stock radius arms and do not offer as much flex or strength or ground clearance but are also much cheaper.

The stock sway bars can be reused with a lift if you absolutely think they are necessary. Many members believe that taking the stock sway bars off makes no difference in handling or body lean, but this modification does help the suspension flex properly. Unless you drive like Mario Andretti, this modification will be a good one for you.

Another question often asked is what is the difference between a kit and system when looking at suspension kits. A kit lifts the rear by the use of blocks or add-a-leafs or a combination of those. A system completely replaces the rear leaf springs and offers both better flex and better reliability. Using blocks for lift can be dangerous off road because they can easily break or slip out causing damage to the vehicle. Replacement leaf springs are a much better way to lift the rear of your vehicle.

Another question is whether to get a body lift or suspension lift. A body lift uses longer bolts and bushings of some type to lift the body off the frame. Generally this is not recommended over a suspension lift for off-roading, but it is a cheap alternative to fit bigger tires if necessary. One major disadvantages to body lifts is that the bolts are longer and this puts more strain on them and in extreme situations have been known to break. A suspension lift basically moves the axles away from the frame allowing for fitment of larger tires. This is usually better than a body lift because it also increases travel.

Driveshaft modification is generally not needed for lifts up to 6 inches, more than 6 inches of lift it is recommended that you lengthen your driveshafts to eliminate vibration and increased strain.

Here is a list I have compiled of the different lift heights and the companies that make them:
2 inch lift-coils and alignment cams only: Rancho, Superlift, Skyjacker, BDS, Rough Country
2.5 inch lift: Rough Country, Tuff country
3 inch lift: Rancho
4 inch lift: Skyjacker, Superlift, Rancho, BDS, Dick Cepek, Rough Country, Tuff Country, Pro Comp, Trailmaster
6 inch lift: Skyjacker, Superlift, BDS, Dick Cepek, Rough Country, Tuff Country, Pro Comp
8 inch lift: Skyjacker

Skyjacker, Superlift, Rancho, BDS, Dick Cepek, Pro Comp, Trailmaster and Tough Country all make extended radius arms for the various lift sizes.

Body lifts are available from Performance Accessories in both 2 and 3 inch lift heights.

Another thing to keep in mind when doing a suspension lift is steering. If the stock geometry were to be kept in place, the increased angles would create excessive bumpsteer. To correct this, the steering geometry must be changed. The most common ways to change it are to use a drop pitman arm (either included in most kits or an option), to flip the tie rods to the top of the steering knuckles, to use Superlift's Superrunner steering system, or to use some combination.

Flipping the tie rods to the top of the knuckles works perfect for a 4" lift with the stock pitman arm. For a 6" lift, a drop pitman arm is also needed. In either case, a drop pitman arm will suffice by itself. Superlift's superrunner steering utilizes a drag link, 2 equal length tie rods (as opposed to the stock drag link/ tie rod combo), and adds an idler arm in addition to the drop pitman arm. It is designed for use with Superlift's suspension systems, but most others can be modified to accept it.

Diagram explaining Superrunner steering:


6" lift with drop pitman arm and tie rods flipped to the top of the knuckle (also dual steering stabilizers)


6" lift with Superrunner steering and tie rod flip:


As far as radius arms go: Pro Comp also makes extended ones for their Stage II kits.

One thing to keep in mind is that Tough Country, BDS and Dick Cepek use new brackets with the extended radius arms, instead of reusing the factory ones.

The Tough Country ones utilize a unique adjustable bushing, which can aid in alignment issues:



Dick Cepek also utilizes new brackets, which retain the stock style radius arm bushing

(they are in the bottom left corner of the picture)


BDS uses brackets similar to Dick Cepek:


There is also another option to lift the rear of the Bronco: a shackle flip. Using either the front hangers for the rear leafs off a F-250/350 (there is some debate as to whether or not F-150 hangers are the same) and to install them in place of the factory rear hangers on the Bronco. This can net anywhere from 3-5.5" inches of lift. The actual amount of lift will vary from application to application and the different methods used. Sky Manufacturing also makes a shackle flip kit that utilizes a new rear hanger for the rear leaf. It accomplishes the same goals as the F-250/350 method.

Here's an example so you get an idea of what I'm talking about:


Another thing to keep in mind when choosing a lift are the brackets themselves. Superlift, Skyjacker, BDS, Dick Cepek, and Pro Comp use brackets that have two pivot holes drilled in them, one for 4" and one for 6". This allows you to upgrade to a 6", should you become unsatisfied with your 4" down the road. All that is needed are new shocks and coil springs.

Some companies' brackets are much beefier than others. Superlift, BDS, Tuff Country, Trailmaster, and Rough Country use a drivers' side brackets that bolts on in addition to the existing factory one.

This picture illustrates the driver's side bracket for the passenger side beam (6" Superlift kit):


Dick Cepek, Pro Comp, Rancho, and Skyjacker completely replace the drivers side axle pivot bracket and use passenger side brackets that are much larger than the other companies and use more bolts to fasten them (the actual number varies from company to company, but you get the idea that they use more right?). If you look closely at the following pictures, you should get the idea. Whether any of this makes a diffence is yet to be seen as there are aggressive wheelers on this site running or who have run both designs with luck

Here are pics from the different companies websites to give you an idea what the kits look like:
Superlift 6" kit with radius arm drop brackets:

Superlift extended radius arms and stock arm with drop bracket comparison:


Tuff Country 4" Lift with extended radius arms:


Rancho 4" kit with extended radius arms:
View attachment 5239

Skyjacker 6" complete system:


BDS 6" kit with extended radius arms and dual add-a-leaves:


Dick Cepek 4" kit with extended radius arms:


Pro Comp 6" kit with extended radius arms:


Trailmaster 4" kit with extended radius arms:


Black Diamond if I recall correctly they do not make radius arms yet for 4" and 6" TTB lift kits. They only offer radius arm drop brackets. The company itself is largely Jeep associated, but do make lift kits for Fords other then the '80 - '96 era. Plus other companies worth mentioning for people with deep pockets are: Fabtech, AutoFab, and Fabritech. Fabtech is for 2WD TTB Fords, since not all our members here drive Broncos. AutoFab also makes a 4x4 kit dealing with replacing your OE TTB with a longer one which means no more drop brackets. The previous two lift companies are if you plan on desert racing your truck or using it professionally in Tough Truck competition. Fabritech is from Jeff's Bronco Graveyard and makes a bolt on kit for Solid axle swaps on TTB Broncos/F-150, Rangers, and '97+F-150s. However this kit is really only for the people that have more money then time, because you will find that most do their own SAS for less money then the kit. The last three kits mentioned are extremely expensive compared to the others mentioned previously.


Something that will vary from vehicle to vehicle is whether or not you will need camber adjusment sleeves and extended brake lines after the lift.

The TTB is a difficult suspension to align, lifting it doesn't make it easier. After lifting, you should take it to a competent alignment shop and have them work on it. If your camber is off too much, you will need adjustment sleeves, which can be pricey. Whether or not you will need these is strictly based on each individual rig. One may need it and another with the exact same kit may not. It is pretty much luck of the draw, but chances are you will need them if you want your Bronco to align properly, especially down the road.

Don't get cheap with the brake lines: buy extended ones as it is a very cheap price to pay considering what they are in control of.

With all that having been said, if you are having trouble understanding anything myself or wes said, use the search feature. All this has been covered before, where do you think I learned it?


When bigger tires are added, you will suffer an engine loss because more mass and a larger diameter tire is having to be moved. Changing the ring and pinion gears in your axles are one way to get this power back. The thread in this link explains everything you need to know about this change.

Larger Tire and R&P Gear Info

The Autofab and Camburg kits do not "bend" the beams on a TTB, that is how they do I-beams. Think about it, if you bent the beams, how would your axleshafts work. What they do is cut out the lower ball joint and move it outward to correct the camber angle.

Also, you can get plenty of travel with drop brackets as well, you don't need the fancy desert racer setups. IIRC, mine gets almost 13" right now. The advantage to the desert racer kits is that you retain the stock pivot brackets and steering geometry, which are more durable for jumping.

ALL OF THIS INFORMATION HAS BEEN COMPILED FROM A PERVIOUS THREAD. THE CONTRIBUTERS TO THIS THREAD ARE: WES, ANDY351, AND MAX.

PLEASE REFER TO THIS THREAD FOR ANY INFORMATION YOU NEED ABOUT LIFTS, TIRES, OR GEARS.

wes
That’s a ton of useful info. Thank you. What are your thoughts on the super runner steering conversion kit for a 6” lift and 35x13.5x15s on 10” rims? I’m stock piling parts for when I move to the suspension phase of my build. Also, what are your thoughts on steering stabilizers? Seems like you have a pretty extensive knowledge of lift systems.
I appreciate your input.
 

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Driving Stuff Henry Built
*90xlt,351w,e4od,1356m*79,400,C6,205,19donors*73,400,np435,d20j twin
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9,460 Posts
That’s a ton of useful info. Thank you. What are your thoughts on the super runner steering conversion kit for a 6” lift and 35x13.5x15s on 10” rims? I’m stock piling parts for when I move to the suspension phase of my build. Also, what are your thoughts on steering stabilizers? Seems like you have a pretty extensive knowledge of lift systems.
I appreciate your input.
 

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Ultra Premium Member
1996 EB w/5.8 TOO much lift, 44" Mudders & 5:43-5:38's
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6,095 Posts
I know it wasn't directed at me but, I have been running the Super Runner steering on my Broncos for years as well as stabilizers with good results.



 

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Registered
92 5.0, work in progress
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72 Posts
I know it wasn't directed at me but, I have been running the Super Runner steering on my Broncos for years as well as stabilizers with good results.



Nice lookin rig!
Thanks for the reply. I did t want to waste any money on something that was eliminated by adding the steering system.
 

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11 Posts
32's on an '96 Eddie Bauer?

I have installed Rough Country 1.5" leveler springs on my '96 XL. This has made the front and rear end level, and not made it look so "nose heavy". Are you running on the stock front suspension? If so, you might want to try a pair of these, and see if you fix your clearance problem w/ the radius arm and or the front air dam.
MD
I have a 96 Eddie Bauer, I was hoping to put 32x11.5x15 on it without any lift. From your experience, what would you recommend?
 

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Registered
1993 Ford Bronco
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110 Posts
I have a 93 w/ 33” BFG mud terrains and, what I believe to be, a 4” lift. I’m wanting to downgrade to a 2” lift and 33” BFG all terrains because I’m going to be pulling a small trailer. How do I identify what I have and replace it with? (I fully expect to replace most everything…)

Also planning on replacing anything I can with polyurethane bushings.
 

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Addicted to Junk
85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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17,670 Posts
I have a 93 w/ 33” BFG mud terrains and, what I believe to be, a 4” lift. I’m wanting to downgrade to a 2” lift and 33” BFG all terrains because I’m going to be pulling a small trailer. How do I identify what I have and replace it with? (I fully expect to replace most everything…)

Also planning on replacing anything I can with polyurethane bushings.
You will have to swap out springs and the drop brackets for the TTB and the radius arms. And pitman arm most likely.

I tow with my 08 superduty on 35s and a leveling kit which is taller than your bronco. Taller than my bronco with 37s and 6" lift. I say just keep the 4" and swap all bushings to urethane. And keep the sway bars.
 

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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" on 33's
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38,672 Posts
^^^^ I tow with my rig on a 6" lift w/33's and 4.56 gears. Need a drop hitch but tows like a champ. If you don't want the lift... that's your call but it shouldn't really be a problem for towing. Maybe some airbags if your towing big weight.






This last one looks small but that's a 3/4 ton trailer hauling over 1 ton of pea gravel.
 

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Registered
1993 Ford Bronco
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110 Posts
You will have to swap out springs and the drop brackets for the TTB and the radius arms. And pitman arm most likely.

I tow with my 08 superduty on 35s and a leveling kit which is taller than your bronco. Taller than my bronco with 37s and 6" lift. I say just keep the 4" and swap all bushings to urethane. And keep the sway bars.
^^^^ I tow with my rig on a 6" lift w/33's and 4.56 gears. Need a drop hitch but tows like a champ. If you don't want the lift... that's your call but it shouldn't really be a problem for towing. Maybe some airbags if your towing big weight.

This last one looks small but that's a 3/4 ton trailer hauling over 1 ton of pea gravel.
Thanks for the info, yall! I definitely need to get some running boards for it. The wife (5' 0") can't make it up there too easily (not why I was going to drop the lift though, haha).
 

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Addicted to Junk
85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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17,670 Posts
Thanks for the info, yall! I definitely need to get some running boards for it. The wife (5' 0") can't make it up there too easily (not why I was going to drop the lift though, haha).
Most people like the 'hoop step' from Carr, Bully, DeeZee, etc.
 

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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" on 33's
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38,672 Posts
I seriously considered dropping my rig down to a 4" when I picked it up. the 6" lift on 35's was also a bit much for me (5'6" 170 lbs.) and my lil' lady (5'3" 110 lbs.). Having owned a few and this being my first 6" lifted rig... I thought for sure it would be the right move but my rigs PO had it pro-installed and the rig handles fantastic for a lifted one, so I moved down to 33" tires and that helped a lot. It also gave me all the wheel well space a guy could ask for... so I can get pretty wild off-road and not be concerned about rubbing tires/fender (which I'd experienced a lot in the past). Still, I am an LBK amputee and my lil' gal is short too... so I chose to add the steps over running boards. If I were hardcore wheelin', I'd have tried to go with a slider, incorporating step but I'm not doing a lot of rock-crawling in the PNW. Mostly hill climbing, puddle jumping, etc. I went with the BULLY hoop-steps for 2 reasons. Aluminum steps should snap off if caught up without damaging the doors bottom threshold very much and BULLY is one of the few that incorporates the inner support bar from bolt to bolt too spread the load across the threshold, give better support and relieve hot-spot type stress. Here they are on my '95...




You'll notice my pics above, I hadn't installed the hoop-steps yet, as I was still settling around on my wheel/tire options.
Obviously, you'll make your own decisions for what fits your needs, budget and desired look but knowing all you can first never hurts.

Also, fwiw... finding a good set of OEM running boards and support frame is NOT easy to come by for these OBS rigs.
 

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Premium Member
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2 Posts
Ok guys, here is the final thread for all 80-96 lift and tire info. I hope that anything replied too will be more info, and we can make it a sticky for new members. Here we go!

There are three different body styles in the 80-96 era. 80-86, 87-91, 92-96. In 1980 FoMoCo introduced a four wheel drive version of their Twin-Traction Beam suspension. This suspension and axle design is normally only recommended for tires up to 35 inches if off-roading is done. Tires up to 38 inches have been run on TTB but it is not recommended for heavy off-roading. The first two years, 80 and 81, the frame was sort of expiramental and is less desirable for off road use. From 80-86 the bodies and fenders were more squared off and the fender openings are generally referred to as being larger than later models. From 87-91 the bodies and fenders were much more rounded, but the grill and frontend was still partially squared off. These models do not have as large of a fender opening. From 92-96 ford made their last broncos, and these included a front end update for a more curvy look. The fender openings stayed the same from the 87-91 model years.

What follows is what size tire you can fit both stock and with the lift amounts listed.

Generally 33 inch tires will fit without rubbing issues except on the radius arms. Some rubbing may occur on the fenders under extreme flex but can be fixed with very minor trimming and if the rubbing occurs on the bumper it can be spaced out to fix this problem. A 4 inch lift can fit 35s with minor trimming but 33s are recommended to alleviate any rubbing issues. A 6 inch lift can fit up to 35 inch tires with minor rubbing if any. Skyjacker makes an 8 inch lift that can be used to fit up to 38 inch tires, but this puts a lot of strain on the TTB axle setup.

Another issue is whether to get radius arm drop brackets or to get extended radius arms. Extended radius arms can increase flex and offer better ground clearance, but also cost much more. Extended radius arms are also much stronger. Drop down brackets use the stock radius arms and do not offer as much flex or strength or ground clearance but are also much cheaper.

The stock sway bars can be reused with a lift if you absolutely think they are necessary. Many members believe that taking the stock sway bars off makes no difference in handling or body lean, but this modification does help the suspension flex properly. Unless you drive like Mario Andretti, this modification will be a good one for you.

Another question often asked is what is the difference between a kit and system when looking at suspension kits. A kit lifts the rear by the use of blocks or add-a-leafs or a combination of those. A system completely replaces the rear leaf springs and offers both better flex and better reliability. Using blocks for lift can be dangerous off road because they can easily break or slip out causing damage to the vehicle. Replacement leaf springs are a much better way to lift the rear of your vehicle.

Another question is whether to get a body lift or suspension lift. A body lift uses longer bolts and bushings of some type to lift the body off the frame. Generally this is not recommended over a suspension lift for off-roading, but it is a cheap alternative to fit bigger tires if necessary. One major disadvantages to body lifts is that the bolts are longer and this puts more strain on them and in extreme situations have been known to break. A suspension lift basically moves the axles away from the frame allowing for fitment of larger tires. This is usually better than a body lift because it also increases travel.

Driveshaft modification is generally not needed for lifts up to 6 inches, more than 6 inches of lift it is recommended that you lengthen your driveshafts to eliminate vibration and increased strain.

Here is a list I have compiled of the different lift heights and the companies that make them:
2 inch lift-coils and alignment cams only: Rancho, Superlift, Skyjacker, BDS, Rough Country
2.5 inch lift: Rough Country, Tuff country
3 inch lift: Rancho
4 inch lift: Skyjacker, Superlift, Rancho, BDS, Dick Cepek, Rough Country, Tuff Country, Pro Comp, Trailmaster
6 inch lift: Skyjacker, Superlift, BDS, Dick Cepek, Rough Country, Tuff Country, Pro Comp
8 inch lift: Skyjacker

Skyjacker, Superlift, Rancho, BDS, Dick Cepek, Pro Comp, Trailmaster and Tough Country all make extended radius arms for the various lift sizes.

Body lifts are available from Performance Accessories in both 2 and 3 inch lift heights.

Another thing to keep in mind when doing a suspension lift is steering. If the stock geometry were to be kept in place, the increased angles would create excessive bumpsteer. To correct this, the steering geometry must be changed. The most common ways to change it are to use a drop pitman arm (either included in most kits or an option), to flip the tie rods to the top of the steering knuckles, to use Superlift's Superrunner steering system, or to use some combination.

Flipping the tie rods to the top of the knuckles works perfect for a 4" lift with the stock pitman arm. For a 6" lift, a drop pitman arm is also needed. In either case, a drop pitman arm will suffice by itself. Superlift's superrunner steering utilizes a drag link, 2 equal length tie rods (as opposed to the stock drag link/ tie rod combo), and adds an idler arm in addition to the drop pitman arm. It is designed for use with Superlift's suspension systems, but most others can be modified to accept it.

Diagram explaining Superrunner steering:


6" lift with drop pitman arm and tie rods flipped to the top of the knuckle (also dual steering stabilizers)


6" lift with Superrunner steering and tie rod flip:


As far as radius arms go: Pro Comp also makes extended ones for their Stage II kits.

One thing to keep in mind is that Tough Country, BDS and Dick Cepek use new brackets with the extended radius arms, instead of reusing the factory ones.

The Tough Country ones utilize a unique adjustable bushing, which can aid in alignment issues:



Dick Cepek also utilizes new brackets, which retain the stock style radius arm bushing

(they are in the bottom left corner of the picture)


BDS uses brackets similar to Dick Cepek:


There is also another option to lift the rear of the Bronco: a shackle flip. Using either the front hangers for the rear leafs off a F-250/350 (there is some debate as to whether or not F-150 hangers are the same) and to install them in place of the factory rear hangers on the Bronco. This can net anywhere from 3-5.5" inches of lift. The actual amount of lift will vary from application to application and the different methods used. Sky Manufacturing also makes a shackle flip kit that utilizes a new rear hanger for the rear leaf. It accomplishes the same goals as the F-250/350 method.

Here's an example so you get an idea of what I'm talking about:


Another thing to keep in mind when choosing a lift are the brackets themselves. Superlift, Skyjacker, BDS, Dick Cepek, and Pro Comp use brackets that have two pivot holes drilled in them, one for 4" and one for 6". This allows you to upgrade to a 6", should you become unsatisfied with your 4" down the road. All that is needed are new shocks and coil springs.

Some companies' brackets are much beefier than others. Superlift, BDS, Tuff Country, Trailmaster, and Rough Country use a drivers' side brackets that bolts on in addition to the existing factory one.

This picture illustrates the driver's side bracket for the passenger side beam (6" Superlift kit):


Dick Cepek, Pro Comp, Rancho, and Skyjacker completely replace the drivers side axle pivot bracket and use passenger side brackets that are much larger than the other companies and use more bolts to fasten them (the actual number varies from company to company, but you get the idea that they use more right?). If you look closely at the following pictures, you should get the idea. Whether any of this makes a diffence is yet to be seen as there are aggressive wheelers on this site running or who have run both designs with luck

Here are pics from the different companies websites to give you an idea what the kits look like:
Superlift 6" kit with radius arm drop brackets:

Superlift extended radius arms and stock arm with drop bracket comparison:


Tuff Country 4" Lift with extended radius arms:


Rancho 4" kit with extended radius arms:
View attachment 5239

Skyjacker 6" complete system:


BDS 6" kit with extended radius arms and dual add-a-leaves:


Dick Cepek 4" kit with extended radius arms:


Pro Comp 6" kit with extended radius arms:


Trailmaster 4" kit with extended radius arms:


Black Diamond if I recall correctly they do not make radius arms yet for 4" and 6" TTB lift kits. They only offer radius arm drop brackets. The company itself is largely Jeep associated, but do make lift kits for Fords other then the '80 - '96 era. Plus other companies worth mentioning for people with deep pockets are: Fabtech, AutoFab, and Fabritech. Fabtech is for 2WD TTB Fords, since not all our members here drive Broncos. AutoFab also makes a 4x4 kit dealing with replacing your OE TTB with a longer one which means no more drop brackets. The previous two lift companies are if you plan on desert racing your truck or using it professionally in Tough Truck competition. Fabritech is from Jeff's Bronco Graveyard and makes a bolt on kit for Solid axle swaps on TTB Broncos/F-150, Rangers, and '97+F-150s. However this kit is really only for the people that have more money then time, because you will find that most do their own SAS for less money then the kit. The last three kits mentioned are extremely expensive compared to the others mentioned previously.


Something that will vary from vehicle to vehicle is whether or not you will need camber adjusment sleeves and extended brake lines after the lift.

The TTB is a difficult suspension to align, lifting it doesn't make it easier. After lifting, you should take it to a competent alignment shop and have them work on it. If your camber is off too much, you will need adjustment sleeves, which can be pricey. Whether or not you will need these is strictly based on each individual rig. One may need it and another with the exact same kit may not. It is pretty much luck of the draw, but chances are you will need them if you want your Bronco to align properly, especially down the road.

Don't get cheap with the brake lines: buy extended ones as it is a very cheap price to pay considering what they are in control of.

With all that having been said, if you are having trouble understanding anything myself or wes said, use the search feature. All this has been covered before, where do you think I learned it?


When bigger tires are added, you will suffer an engine loss because more mass and a larger diameter tire is having to be moved. Changing the ring and pinion gears in your axles are one way to get this power back. The thread in this link explains everything you need to know about this change.

Larger Tire and R&P Gear Info

The Autofab and Camburg kits do not "bend" the beams on a TTB, that is how they do I-beams. Think about it, if you bent the beams, how would your axleshafts work. What they do is cut out the lower ball joint and move it outward to correct the camber angle.

Also, you can get plenty of travel with drop brackets as well, you don't need the fancy desert racer setups. IIRC, mine gets almost 13" right now. The advantage to the desert racer kits is that you retain the stock pivot brackets and steering geometry, which are more durable for jumping.

ALL OF THIS INFORMATION HAS BEEN COMPILED FROM A PERVIOUS THREAD. THE CONTRIBUTERS TO THIS THREAD ARE: WES, ANDY351, AND MAX.

PLEASE REFER TO THIS THREAD FOR ANY INFORMATION YOU NEED ABOUT LIFTS, TIRES, OR GEARS.

wes
Mom

This is some really good stuff thank you for your time and effort in putting it on
 

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1993 XLT 5.8L E4OD,BW1356 Transfer case,4:11 gears, headers, throttle body spacer
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Great thread guys! I definitely didn't get through all 36 pages of this but I've read enough and think I have come to the conclusion of what I want to do with my '93 since it is still stock and desperately needs an update! Probably going to go with a 6" system with new rear leaf springs and extended radius arms sitting on 33" or equivalent tires. I'll still read through some more and definitely take suggestions though. Right now, gotta find and purchase the system with the components that I want. If anyone has some suggested sites to purchase from, or even better if you know a shop/store around the Scottsdale, AZ area, that would be very helpful.

Thanks! ;)
 
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