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Offical FSB Map Maker
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Discussion Starter #1
Ok everyone I did a search and came up with this link.

My problems are:

When I back up the front wheels will go from \--o-/ to /--o-\ and vise versa when I pull forward again. So from the link I am assuming I need to adjust the camber/caster on the ball joints.

I also need to adjust my TR's. With the wheels turned straight the passenger side looks like it's turned in more than the drivers side.

So........Do I need to try and adjust the balljoints first of the TR's first. I called this morning and set up an appointment with the tire shop. But this thing seems pretty bad and I am afraid of driving it on the road. I'm not all that far from the shop but it still worries me some. So I thought I would try to get some of this straightened out before I take it down there.

I have never messed with adjusting the balljoints so this has me a little nervous. So if you all could give me some pretty good detailed instruction I would greatly appreciate it. If I need to take pics I can do that during lunch but from what I have described above it's pretty cut and dry and if anyone has any questions I'll be online all day so a quick response can be given.
 

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Yeeeeehaw Y'all!
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2,038 Posts
Dayum man!

If you've got noticable movement like that, I think there is something more severe going on under there than just an alignment issue? I'd be jacking the front end up to find out where all the slop in the suspension is coming from.
 

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Offical FSB Map Maker
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Discussion Starter #3
It's not something that just does it as soon as you back up or pull forward. It probably does this in about 50-75'.

I don't think it's something major just a matter of adjusting the bushing but I've never done this and want to be absolute sure of what I'm doing before I do this.
 

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Charlie don't surf..
'92 Ford Bronco XLT
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15,363 Posts
Mike TTB's all do that, nothing to worry about unless there is excessive play in your ball joints.
 

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Offical FSB Map Maker
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Discussion Starter #5
No play the balljoints are about 6-8 months old so I know there shouldn't be anything to worry about. Seeing all this take place has me pretty nervous. I've worked on this thing for 2 weekends and am ready to put this thing on the road.
 

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Charlie don't surf..
'92 Ford Bronco XLT
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15,363 Posts
So you have not driven it on the road yet?? I would check everything you have installed or worked on in the last two weeks and make sure everything is tight. Balljoints won't got bad after 6 months.
 

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Unregistered User
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697 Posts
I experienced a similar issue awhile ago. With mine the balljoints were right and tight, but the problem turned out to be my camber bushings were worn and needed to be replaced with adjustable bushings to correct the angle and tighten it up again. If your balls are tight, this would be the next logical step.

http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9489
 

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negative creep
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8,651 Posts
welcome to the world of TTB. thats just the way the suspension cycles. drive it to the shop, you'll be fine. it will drive like shit, but it'll be fine.
 

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Offical FSB Map Maker
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Discussion Starter #10
Andy351 said:
welcome to the world of TTB. thats just the way the suspension cycles. drive it to the shop, you'll be fine. it will drive like shit, but it'll be fine.
Like I said before I figured it would be off but doing what it did scared me a little. I drove it down my street about 200', it definately drove like poop and I was afraid something was going to break so I turned around and took it back to the house.

I know the guy at the shop pretty good and I was telling him about the Superlift Adjustable Bushings and he sounded kind of surprised so I sent the link to his home email and I'll call him tomorrow and chit chat about them.
 

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negative creep
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8,651 Posts
the camber change is normal, it will even do that stock. in fact, mine was worse stock. all you really need to do is make sure you tightened the bolts correctly.try to get the toe in (TR adjustment) as close as you can, thats the where most of the driveability issues are coming from right now. get the adjustable bushings and take it to the shop. you'll be fine. trust me, i had the same issues with mine.
 
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jack the frotn end up and see if there is play in the TRE's. If they are solid as you said the ball joints are then: Adjust the toe yourself to see if it's driveable to the shop. Just measure at the front of the tires and the back in the same place on the tire. Loosen the nuts on the adjusting sleeves on the tie rods, turn them with a pipe wrench to get 1/4" toe-in at the front. This is not to "spec" but should get you to the shop. :thumbup

You probably do not have adjustable bushings so there is notheing you can do there. I would get a set though so you can readjust when the springs settle. A lifetime alignment is very valuable if you can't do it yourself.
 

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shibby
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Toe affects camber big time. Get it aligned first or even better, replace all the steering linkages first before getting it aligned.
 

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Offical FSB Map Maker
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Discussion Starter #15
Dustball said:
Toe affects camber big time. Get it aligned first or even better, replace all the steering linkages first before getting it aligned.
I wish not enough $$$ right now. All the TR's seem like they are in good shape. Never had any problems with it before the lift. So I am thinking that I need major adjustments due to the lift being intalled.

I called a local Offroad shop this morning and can get the Superlift Alignement bushings for about $42.95 a pair. :thumbup :thumbup So I'll be ordering them today and doing some adjustments tonight after work before taking it to the shop.

Do you all think I will really need the SL bushings?
 

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Screw the Jeep Thing
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You can get a whole set of Tie rods for $200.. Thats not much cash for your peice of mind..

What are these alignment bushnigs you speak of? I've never had to use those before. Sound like a waste of money.
 

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Support our troops!
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My first question would be, did you use a "drop" pitman arm??? The only way you are going to have a sudden problem like this if all you did was a suspension lift, is for the steering linkages, drop arm and tie rod's to be pulled way out of where they want to be... If you retain the same pitman arm and pull the knuckles way down then you are going to be streching the steering components much farther than the TTB gods ever intended. I had similer problems the first time I moved my Bronco after putting a 4" lift on it. As soon as I moved it back into the shop and replaced the pitman arm this problem went away. Unless you removed the balljoints when you did the lift I would doubt that they are the problem, look closely at your drag and tie rods.

dc


Miketnf150 said:
Ok everyone I did a search and came up with this link.

My problems are:

When I back up the front wheels will go from \--o-/ to /--o-\ and vise versa when I pull forward again. So from the link I am assuming I need to adjust the camber/caster on the ball joints.

I also need to adjust my TR's. With the wheels turned straight the passenger side looks like it's turned in more than the drivers side.

So........Do I need to try and adjust the balljoints first of the TR's first. I called this morning and set up an appointment with the tire shop. But this thing seems pretty bad and I am afraid of driving it on the road. I'm not all that far from the shop but it still worries me some. So I thought I would try to get some of this straightened out before I take it down there.

I have never messed with adjusting the balljoints so this has me a little nervous. So if you all could give me some pretty good detailed instruction I would greatly appreciate it. If I need to take pics I can do that during lunch but from what I have described above it's pretty cut and dry and if anyone has any questions I'll be online all day so a quick response can be given.
 

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Offical FSB Map Maker
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Discussion Starter #19
I wish I had pics to post.

The lift consists of 6" springs in front, axle pivot drop brackets, dual shocks, dropped pitman arm, and superlift extended radius arms. I am eliminating the sway bar at the moment so no drop brackets for the sway bar.

I believe the kit is installed correctly.
 

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Support our troops!
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I stand corrected then, I did not notice that you had installed the drop pitman arm, that would have been my first thing to look at. You still might want to take a look at another stock Bronco and look at the angles that everything is sitting at and compare them to your steering angles.

dc

Miketnf150 said:
I wish I had pics to post.

The lift consists of 6" springs in front, axle pivot drop brackets, dual shocks, dropped pitman arm, and superlift extended radius arms. I am eliminating the sway bar at the moment so no drop brackets for the sway bar.

I believe the kit is installed correctly.
 
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