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Discussion Starter #1
im running 32s on my 92 and they rub something when making u turns, not sure what..
BTW.Would lifting 4'' increase the handling/cornering or decrease it? or should I just choose smaller tires? whats the best ride height configutation for both onroad and offroad driving?
thanks! appologize for the bumper dumbness...
 

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higher center of gravity will always decrease handling ability. but these are trucks, not sports cars. just drive it responsibly.
 

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Lift it 4 inches and put on 33's...then gears...then? Or go with smaller tires.

I have no problems with my truck in the turns.
:beer
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Lift it 4 inches and put on 33's...then gears...then? Or go with smaller tires.

I have no problems with my truck in the turns.
:beer
Do you happen to know whats the best ride height for handling and offroad ground clearance for FSBs?
 

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take off your sway bars. it will increase handling about 200% :hehe

but really. just adjust your bump stops. even with a 4 inch you'll still rub unless you get the radius arms that angle in and then angle back out. I think procomp sells them
 

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1. You DO NOT need a 4 inch lift to clear 32 inch tires.
2. If you are not offroading much, DO NOT take off your sway bars.
3. You do not need to adjust your "bump stops" to keep your tires from rubbing on your bumper.
4. I run a 4 inch lift and 35s on my 95 which cleared just fine after some minor body and bumper trimming.
5. It is not necessary to install aftermarket radius arms to keep your tires from rubbing.

It is not necessary to incur the cost of a lift and the time to install it if you are not planning on running tires larger than those 32s. Even 33s will clear with some minor trimming and no lift.

If you are planning on sticking with 32s, you can install coil bucket spacers (up to 1/2 inch) to level the truck a little, and maybe install some new shocks and springs to freshen the front end up (will most likely get another 1/2 of lift) then IF the tires still rub a little, you can shave the bumper down so they clear. That keeps you stock (important for alignment), keeps the COG down, will improve the handling, saves you a thousand dollars and fixes your tire rubbage problem.

If you plan on going bigger than 32s in the next couple of years, then a lift would be advisable, but IMO dont do it if you are happy with your 32s. Its unnecessary, expensive and will look odd if you run a 4 inch lift with that size tire.
 

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I have a couple problems with what Shane said. Your tires *will* rub on your radius arms no matter what. Unless of course you are running aftermarket rims with a better offset. I've rubbed 31's on my f150 arms, 33's and now 35's on my BKO. The fatcory steel 5 spokes (92-96) had the best factory backspace...about 1/2 difference than the aluminum modulars. Second, adding spring spacers and/or taller springs will offset your alignment. Period. You will need a re-align from either of those as they will push the suspension away from the frame without actually lowering the TTB.

However, I do agree that a 4" lift is overkill for 32's. I've ran 35" swampers on my 95 with nothing more than a little "creative bodywork". I've ran from 31's,32's and up to 33's with no bumper rub. The golf balls on my 35" TSL's did like to try and pull my bumper off though lol. Instead of trying to convince yourself you may need a lift, just consider what your honestly use your truck for. Sky-scraper trucks aren't exactly ideal when tip-toeing across a sloped trail. But at the same time, "low-riders" get high sided in deep mud and snow. From my personal experience, a *well* thought out bodylift is kind of a Jack of trades, if you will. Keeps your center of gravity a little lower since the heavy parts (frame, drivtrain, etc) stay stock height, but it lifts the fenders away to increase travel room and tire clearence. If you're planning on hard wheeling on a bodylift, I suggest upgrading the body bolts to grade 8 if the kit doesn't come with them. I'd also reinforce the mount pads on the frame and body to help reduce stress cracking from the added leverage.
 

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32 shouldn't rub the r/a with the right wheel. i had factory alcoa wheels and never had a problem. wasn't even close to bumper.
 

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I never liked the look of 31s because they just look too narrow. I don't do any kind of offroading, so I went with 32s. But they did rub on the RA's at full wheel turn, so I mounted some new rims with a little more offset. If I had to do it over, I'd have gone with 15x10 instead of 15x8 rims. The 11.5" wide 32's are ok on 8" rims, but if I ever decide to go to 33s, I'd like to have the 10" rims for the 12.5" wide tires.

So, I might consider that besides adding the cost of the lift, you need to add the cost of new tires and rims if your not running 15x10's. And how much actual ground clearance is gained by adding a 4" lift and 33" tires over no lift and 32" tires. A wench and a set of rock sliders might be a more effient use of your money off roading.
 

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I have a couple problems with what Shane said. Your tires *will* rub on your radius arms no matter what. Unless of course you are running aftermarket rims with a better offset. I've rubbed 31's on my f150 arms, 33's and now 35's on my BKO. The fatcory steel 5 spokes (92-96) had the best factory backspace...about 1/2 difference than the aluminum modulars. Second, adding spring spacers and/or taller springs will offset your alignment. Period. You will need a re-align from either of those as they will push the suspension away from the frame without actually lowering the TTB.

However, I do agree that a 4" lift is overkill for 32's. I've ran 35" swampers on my 95 with nothing more than a little "creative bodywork". I've ran from 31's,32's and up to 33's with no bumper rub. The golf balls on my 35" TSL's did like to try and pull my bumper off though lol. Instead of trying to convince yourself you may need a lift, just consider what your honestly use your truck for. Sky-scraper trucks aren't exactly ideal when tip-toeing across a sloped trail. But at the same time, "low-riders" get high sided in deep mud and snow. From my personal experience, a *well* thought out bodylift is kind of a Jack of trades, if you will. Keeps your center of gravity a little lower since the heavy parts (frame, drivtrain, etc) stay stock height, but it lifts the fenders away to increase travel room and tire clearence. If you're planning on hard wheeling on a bodylift, I suggest upgrading the body bolts to grade 8 if the kit doesn't come with them. I'd also reinforce the mount pads on the frame and body to help reduce stress cracking from the added leverage.
1. The OP did not say anything about the tires rubbing on the radius arms. He said they are rubbing on the bumper. My post addressed the issue he asked about, not the radius arms, which he didnt ask about. If the tires are rubbing the radius arms then that is a different issue, which, as you mention, could be fixed with a differently offset wheel. It is quite possible that he already has wheels that have the offset necessary to avoid rubbing the RAs or that he is mistaken and the tires are rubbing on the RAs and not on the bumper.

2. I did not say that he would not have to have the truck aligned if he used the coilbucket spacers, but I think we can agree that an alignment shop will have less issues aligning with .25-.50 inch coil spacer than with a 4 inch lift.

I stand by my post. A 4 inch lift is not necessary to run 32s. A simple set of coil spacers and some fresh springs and or shock will most likely allow the BUMPER to clear the tires. He may have to trim a little tiny bit more, but each truck is different and he wont know until he installs the hardware.
 

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1. The OP did not say anything about the tires rubbing on the radius arms. He said they are rubbing on the bumper. My post addressed the issue he asked about, not the radius arms, which he didnt ask about. If the tires are rubbing the radius arms then that is a different issue, which, as you mention, could be fixed with a differently offset wheel. It is quite possible that he already has wheels that have the offset necessary to avoid rubbing the RAs or that he is mistaken and the tires are rubbing on the RAs and not on the bumper.

2. I did not say that he would not have to have the truck aligned if he used the coilbucket spacers, but I think we can agree that an alignment shop will have less issues aligning with .25-.50 inch coil spacer than with a 4 inch lift.

I stand by my post. A 4 inch lift is not necessary to run 32s. A simple set of coil spacers and some fresh springs and or shock will most likely allow the BUMPER to clear the tires. He may have to trim a little tiny bit more, but each truck is different and he wont know until he installs the hardware.
What are you a snake oil salesman? Telling someone 32's wont rub on the bumper but not telling them they will rub the radius arms is kinda like selling someone a dana 60 and telling them its a direct bolt in. If someone is asking a question it is likely that they dont know about everywhere they could rub and would be best to tell them all issues so they can make an informed decision.
 

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What are you a snake oil salesman?

Telling someone 32's wont rub on the bumper but not telling them they will rub the radius arms is kinda like selling someone a dana 60 and telling them its a direct bolt in. If someone is asking a question it is likely that they dont know about everywhere they could rub and would be best to tell them all issues so they can make an informed decision.

:rofl: You realize a snake oil salesman sells people things they dont need, which is the opposite of what I was doing, right?

OP - Can you confirm exactly where your tires are rubbing so we can offer the best advice for a fix?
 

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Which is why I never said you where wrong, just that I had issues with what you had said. I agree fully about no need for a 4" lift on 32's. Frankly, I think it'd look dumb. I just don't assume that he has aftermarket wheels. It's a bit more likely he has stockers, especially if the truck only had 31's or 32's. I was just letting him know that they would rub on the RA's. The only way any 31"+ tire won't rub them (again, on stock wheels) is by adjusting the turn stops on your steering gearbox. I believe someone mentioned bump stops earlier, and my guess is that's what was meant. Either way, I was meaning to suggest that he's probably rubbing the arms since 32's clear the bumper on a decent condition truck.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
:rofl: You realize a snake oil salesman sells people things they dont need, which is the opposite of what I was doing, right?

OP - Can you confirm exactly where your tires are rubbing so we can offer the best advice for a fix?
wow..i felt so retarded coming back to this thread...because i just bought the truck and dididnt take a good look at night....the tires are definitely not touching the bumper....they are touching something else...not sure what..:banghead
 

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Do they only rub when at full lock? Does it sound like both sides are rubbing or just one side? Are your springs / shocks in good shape?

EDIT: I found this link to be helpful when looking in to lifts and tire sizes. http://bronco.zenseeker.net/Lift.htm

What are you a snake oil salesman? Telling someone 32's wont rub on the bumper but not telling them they will rub the radius arms is kinda like selling someone a dana 60 and telling them its a direct bolt in. If someone is asking a question it is likely that they dont know about everywhere they could rub and would be best to tell them all issues so they can make an informed decision.
I'm running 32's at stock height 95 XL. They have never rubbed on the radius arms.

The front bumper is not stock, and I don't have a sway bar installed in the front. I have never experienced rubbing issues. I was running 31 x 10.50s when I had a stock bumper and they didn't rub either.
 

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-90 xlt, 351w, e4od, man 1356, 3.55, sag, warn hubs, 35s. -73, 400, np435, d20j twin, 35s
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On my 90 with 33s the tires rubbed on the sway bar first, then when that was removed they rubbed on the radius arms. 92s are a little different, so it might not be the same locations in the same order. But both locations should be able to be avoided by adjusting the steering stops located on the backside of the knuckles.

Gacknar described the process awhile back:
Turn out your steering stops.


They are on the back side of the knuckle. You will see them clearly when you look (or the threaded holes where they should be)

You can see my originals sticking out at the very bottom center of this pic.

Clicky for full size



I opted to replace mine with slightly longer grade 8 bolts and a set of nuts to use as jamb nuts.

I jacked up the front, removed each and replaced with the bolts/nuts and ran them all the way in. Then I swung the steering to make sure I could still turn it far enough that the tires hit the arms .
(making sure then new bolts/nuts weren't to long)

The I just slowly turned them out a few turns until I had created 1/2" between the tire and the arm, then locked them in place with the jamb nut.

Be sure to spin the tire when measuring, tires are never perfect and mud tires use staggered tread blocks.
 

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My 95 is the same El Kabong. They grab both the sway-bar and the arms in the back. I've been putting off resetting my turn stops in lieu of swapping to wider rims with a better offset. Or at least that's my excuse for procrastinating...:doh0715: To the OP, I suggest just turning your wheels full lock one way, crawl under, and look at the front and back of both tires. Should be pretty obvious.:beer
 
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