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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay, so I picked up some steel pipe from work and I'm planning on building a light bar for my truck, but I also want to use it to try and prevent a bit of frame twisting. So my plan is to somehow attach it to the frame. What would be the easiest way to attach it to the frame through the box, but still be able to remove it if I need to pull the box? I was thinking something like a plate bolted to the frame, with a larger pipe welded to that, and then have the light bar slide into that (like a sleeve) and then bolt it onto that, or use pins or something, but what do you guys think?
This is for a '90 F-250 RCLB
 

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Man I got all excited when I seen this..I thought we were talking about them pretty things! Which mine is in order process for my work truck (Titan) so I'm excited!!



What kind of lights you going to mount on your light bar? HID kit for the lights too?? LOL man that would be BRIGHT!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·

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even if you plated the underneith the bar and ran gussets to the frame I cant really seeing it help frame flex....
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Okay, well if it wouldn't really help with that, then scrap that idea. But i'd still like to be able to tie it directly into the frame so as I"m not really stressing the bed of the box.
 

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why not..its only holding up lights.

what kind of "pipe" is it? Personally anything smaller than 2 1/2(round stock) looks too dinky.

Ever thought about making a headache rack? They look a lot better than a rollbar/lightbar. just do your typical U and put a plate on the bottom. Then another matching plate to go on the inside of the bed and bolt it down sandwiching the bed you could even make those plates go a foot back and put a gusset in. If your really worried about it, have another angled pipe go from halfway up back a good foot or two. Again, its only holding up lights. its not going to serve much anything else.

I run 4 100 watters and two 5 watt in my front bumper and two 50 watt in the rear. With all the truck lights on, I run about 12. All off, about 13.5-14. Think about a bigger alt. or dual batteries if you plan on running that many lights.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Oh I'll def be doing a 3G swap for it, and probably purchasing a better battery when this one dies.
I've never been a fan of the headache rack look on a pickup; I think they look tacky. And IIRC, it's around the 2" mark, maybe a little bigger.
 

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square or round pipe? I am assuming its round. You can buy elbows and weld them on so you dont have to bend it, or have it bent. Heres a handle for a boat made out of 1 1/4 with the elbows. These were bent from regular tubing, but when you get into the 1 5/8-2", elbows are about 5$. If you go that route and can't find any, let me know and you can buy them from my work.



Otherwise theirs the option of 45's If you plan on running the whole width of the truck with just that simple U design, try to run a brace in the corners. maybe thats where you could mount the rear lights. Otherwise if you hit something it could throw it out of whack and an unsquare peice put onto a perfectly square truck will stick out like a sore thumb.

let us know what kind of design you were thinking of. Then we could really help you with its strength ect.
 

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Okay, well if it wouldn't really help with that, then scrap that idea. But i'd still like to be able to tie it directly into the frame so as I"m not really stressing the bed of the box.
You don't think the bed of the truck is designed to carry a load?

Oh I'll def be doing a 3G swap for it, and probably purchasing a better battery when this one dies.
I've never been a fan of the headache rack look on a pickup; I think they look tacky. And IIRC, it's around the 2" mark, maybe a little bigger.
The eighties called and they want their huge fake roll bar back. You think a headache rack looks tacky, but this monstrosity doesn't?:scratchhe


To each his own, but you have some strange taste in truck accessories my friend. That one that you said you like takes up a ton or room in the bed, doesn't protect you in a roll over like it looks like it would, and really is tacky. Speaking as a guy who has in the past inadvertently busted out his back window with a shifting load, at least a headache rack is functional.

So that said, why go with the huge structure to support your lights at all? Lights really don't weigh that much at all. Go with a small roof mounted light bar rail and call it a day. Hell, if you don't like that one you can always build a simple roof mount one very easily.

 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Dave: That's a good idea, I hadn't thought about making a roof-mounted bar for them. Would I just drill down into the cab and bolt it down?
 

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They bolt on to the rain gutters.

No need (or reason) to drill into a perfectly good cab.

FWIW: I personally don't like light bars. One low branch is just going to rip off anything you put up that high. Unless you're talking a Mall Crawler.

The only way to minimize frame twist is to box the whole thing.
 
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