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Discussion Starter #62
You make a new charge cable, and replace eithier the grounds or add grounds in bigger guage wire, 1/0 gauge in my case. It helped mine, but that could be more due to old grounds and connections, not the wire size itself, maybe
http://forum.sounddomain.com/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/312025/page/1
that has all the info you should need on it
plan on doing this as well except I found a marine wholesale site with tinned copper wire. It only goes down to 2 awg but still plenty big enough to gain the advantages of doing this.

The tinned wire is more resistent to heat, moisture, corrosion, and is more flexible. Some might see it as overkill but at $3.28 a foot i think its well worth it. I also found some nickel plated terminals i want.
 

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AKA: Butthead
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I snugged up four loose body mounts.
It's not as easy as it sounds. :/
Later I'll do the rest while I got the axle out.

Check it out, there's at least an 1/8" gap the factory left in it...

Here's one I'd snugged up already, it was at least as loose as the one above...

How's yours look? :)

Alvin in AZ
 

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AKA: Butthead
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Removed the XLT badge and added the Bucking Bronco.
Cool one, I kinda like that one, where/what's it from?
I also kinda like the retro V8 symbol I've seen lately, I
'member it from when I was a kid.

Ewww, ;) ...I removed the Blue oval from my grill and
using a Dremel(?) and half-round file opened-up that spot.

Alvin in AZ
ps- Dude, it took ~year but finally found a '97 or newer
plastic dome light.
 

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AKA: Butthead
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Dman, there's something about that font that gets on my nerves. LOL :)

{that same icky font is used} on the plenum chamber too. "Ford 5.8 EFI" :/

Nothing a little 4+1/2" handgrinder and 36 grit sanding disc couldn't fix tho! ;)

-----------------------------------

Anyway, so here's my mod...
Trued my own tires using a 36 grit sanding disc and a 4+1/2" handgrinder...

Turns out used tire sales places have a much better crayon than a lumber
crayon and are cheaper to buy too, IME.

I'd been wanting to figure out a way to true my own tires since the late 70's
and finally found the tool to do it with. Trued tires are amazing, IMO. xD

Cop car tires are trued also race car tires and heavy truck tires.

If you're not into it, I'm not here to sell you on the idea, I'm just here to let
you know you can do it yourself if you want to. :)

Alvin in AZ
 

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'87-96 Low fuel light, working oil pressure gauge, inertia switch reset light ~$20:

'93-96 line locks ~$20:

Tailgate unlatched warning light & 1-touch up/down $5-30:

T/g w/swingaway R side reinforcment ~$5:

Swingaway limit strap & body braces $10-30: .

Camper shell drip rail ~$10:

'87-91 wiper valance on '80-86 trucks $5-30:

Cleaning leaves out of the cowl $0:

Adding screen to KEEP leaves out $0-10: .

Cleaning the squirrel cage & lubing the motor to get more air, less noise, less vibration, & less odor $0:

Cargo tiedowns ~$10:

Jump seats $10-60: .

Stepshields ~$40:

Fresh air duct insulation ~$10: .

Vacuum gauge ~$30:

Dimming compass temperature RV mirror $10-100:

Clocking a BW t-case & fixing the pump stay arm $0-40:

Flag-style side mirror turn signals $~50:

Flag-style side mirror LED puddle lights ~$10:

'92-96 high-trim rear armrest reinforcement ~$5:

Swapping the '80-86 2-piece A-pillar & door trim and the UNsupported visors for '87-91 parts ~$5ea:

Aligning the doors & t/g $0-30:
http://www.fourdoorbronco.com/board/showthread.php?t=5224
http://www.fourdoorbronco.com/board/showthread.php?t=5225

Inside door handle reinforcement $0-5:

'92-96 speedo calibration $0:

'80-91 speedo calibration ~$15:

'80-92 cruise diagnosis/repair $0-10:

Saginaw P/S $30-150:

Magnefine P/S or ATF filter $12-25ea:

Automatic headlights & autodimming brights $10-60:

Putting all your add-on fuses into the factory fuse blocks $0-10:

Swapping the early EFI relays for common Bosch/ISO/Tycos $0-10:

Soldered battery terminals ~$20:

Newer starter relay $0-40:

Fuel pump access $5-50:

Front diff drain plug $0-50:

Front R axleshaft E-clip elimination $0:

Peel&Seal insulation (Dynamat Xtreme) ~$40/roll:

Cast Aluminum 8.8" cover $5-40:

Frame hooks for trailering the truck $10-40:

Front recovery eyes: $10-100: .

Flanging the exhaust connections $10-40:

Quarter panel support rods $5-20: .

Extra vacuum ports $0-10:

Ass stamp $40-100:
 

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AKA: Butthead
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Just finished this up yesterday...

Started threads wondering if anybody'd stiffened up those flimsy-assed doors
on a '91 etc. Didn't get anything back where it'd been done so came up with
my own braces etc.

Used 1/2" square pipe (had two pieces already cut to length by coincidence)
and just pop riveted the crap out of one of 'em to the driver's side door...

^...the pocket'd already been screwed back down but I've got the passenger
side to do yet and might like its picture better?

The trick to pop-rivets IME is to buy a bunch and use 'em like you mean it. ;)



This brace is not as important but I could tell it helped...



These are what I came up with on those sorry feeling inner door handle
mechanisms but their flimsiness is related to the door's inner skin...

^...the rear screw is a 10-32 and I just tapped the rear tab for it. I'll see
how good that holds up, later might go with a nut and button head Allen
screw (grade-8 material those;).

This extra bolt is a 3/8" headed 1/4"-28 I ground down to take the place of
the rubber bumper...


Hey, when slammed, the driver's door sounds like my '75 Dent's door now!
LOL :)

And the inner door handle now feels like it's actually attached to something.

Alvin in AZ
ps- Thanks for this thread+title Bubba, like Steve I got a jillion cheap mods.

pps- Oops forgot I'd done did this one a year ago(?) but here's picture of my
fix for those flimsy-assed door pockets...

...those are those shorty screws with the drill bit on the end, couldn't've been
easier.

ppps- So anybody got any ideas about how to fix a broken door arm rest?
Hadn't taken pictures yet but the plastic frame is in pieces. Got another from
a parts truck that's from '75 and it has a metal frame and it's still like new!
 

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Cool one, I kinda like that one, where/what's it from?
I picked those up for about $3 each at a swap shop. You can order new ones from one of the big Bronco places but they are not cheap.

The Bronco script is the original for an 88 it just looks funny from the chrome reflecting. I also thought about hand painting the sides of each letter black but decided it was to much trouble.

another pic
 

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Ford Hoarder
78 & 92
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great idea on the door stiffeners, my 92 could use some attention there. I welded in plate on the bottom side of the door latch mechinism to stiffin mine up, helped a good bit.
 

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Discussion Starter #76
No problem Alvin! Its my first bronco ive had and was searching on here for a thread like it and all i found was what was your favorite/least favorite. I like thinking of stuff on my own vehicles ive had but its nice seeing what others have done to and branching off tge idea and doung it your own way or following how they did it.

I just need to get some more money so i can do a few of things you guys posted! Wish i didnt need money for moving this weekend.

I still want to get some more storage in it. It has a lot of space in it but a dinky glovebox, no door pockets, console is pretty blah, and bedsides really dont have anything. I wanna get some old military ammo boxes to make a center console for it, add door pockets, and i want to get rid of the plastic bedsides and have some diamondplate cut for it and hinge it so i can make the inerior of the bed support storage room for tow straps/chains.
 

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AKA: Butthead
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With some modification to the dome light bracket, I changed to an LED dome light.
Cool, I recognize that old dome light frame. :)
Kinda wish I'd gone that route in my '75 F150.

I replaced mine with a semi trailer's clearance light but was able to get a
clear lens. Oh heck, can't find the picture of it. I'll take a new one if i can't
find the picture.

Alvin in AZ
 

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AKA: Butthead
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ts my first bronco ive had and was searching on here for a thread like it and
all i found was what was your favorite/least favorite. I like thinking of stuff
on my own vehicles ive had but its nice seeing what others have done to
and branching off tge idea and doung it your own way or following how they
did it.
x2 :)

That's the key to it IMO, check out how someone else did it then "improve"
on their idea/s when you can. :) Like Steve's clocking of his transfer case
and how any of us could clock ours better because we got his "mistake" to
work off of and his huge picture to boot. LOL :) Thanks, Steve. :)

------------------------

I just now noticed you got a '81 so here's a couple carburetor ideas...

The hole in the throttle rod is not a ball shape but just a drilled hole so a
cylinder shaped stud will actually wear less and spin in the hole with less
friction. This is a smoothed up Allen head screw... (they're grade-8)


Lots of guy have gone with Heim joints, those are cool and all but they're
expensive and I've noticed they break easy both. That's just been my
experience is all, from my dune buggie days.

In that same picture is my new spring seat that I'm kinda proud of. LOL :)
Hey, the spring rubs on brass now! :)
Ok, so I'm easily entertained. :/

Just another view...

I can't remember which holes I tapped to 10-32 or not but did it that way
where I could.

{used a de-burring wheel to smooth up the screw head like it is}
{you don't need to do that.}

-----------------------------

These old Ford carburetors are famous for hesitation and stumbling, many
were thrown away for it and the fix is simple and works great! Most guys
will just increase the accelerator-pump-shot as a band-aid but sure-as-heck
>ain't< the fix or the cause of the problem! :( No kidding.

The cause of the problem is the "low speed circuit" is too lean in many but
not all of the carburetors effected. Another fault of these carburetors is
Ford used two different types of emulsion tubes, one ain't so good and the
other kicks butt.

I'd sure like to take a better picture, but here's a picture...

^That thing's called a "venturi booster assembly" I recommend you don't
take yours apart but instead correct your booster assembly while it's still
assembled. Another trick is to find a booster assembly that's got the right
emulsion tubes in it and use/start with it. :)

The long skinny brass tube laying there has got the low speed circuit's jet
squeezed into its tip, it's long/low like that to pick up fuel. The hole in the
tip needs to be reamed out just a little bit if your carburetor stumbles right
off idle.

In the old days I used gas torch cleaners now I got jet reamers. xD

You don't need anything that exacting just increase the size a little bit and
try it out. :) {make them the same size tho}

Poor performance just above the low speed circuit's air flow is where you'll
notice the crummy type emulsion tube not being the better type. The better
type has 8 holes all along the sides like the two installed emulsion tubes
shown.

The crummy type's got all 8 holes up around the top. Solder 6 of those holes
shut and drill 6 new holes down the sides. Make the new holes the same
size as the original holes. Do these by hand don't use a Dremel.

That is cheaper than buying a new carburetor huh? And the new carburetor
ain't guaranteed to be any better than the old carburetor!

Lots of places tell you how to (main) "jet" a carburetor so i won't go into
that here.

Alvin in AZ
 

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AKA: Butthead
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welded in plate on the bottom side of the door latch mechanism to stiffin
mine up, helped a good bit.
Yeah good one. :)

That's what the bolt (with it's head ground-down) is really for, to give the
whole mechanism another "leg" on the sheet metal. I'd already put a bolt
and nut with Belleville washers on it and it helped some but the mechanism
was still sloppy feeling.

The Belleville washer on that nut is -big-, but still didn't make it feel solid
like the second bolt did.

The 10-32 screw at the rear? I have no idea what its effect is, didn't try it
with and without it. I'll do that when I work on the passenger side tho. :)

Alvin in AZ
 
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