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Discussion Starter #1
So when taking apart my steering colum when I got the housing that has the lock cylinder this is how it came out.
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When I tried putting it back on it wont seat all the way down and the key rotated from the start position to almost the lock position. Nothing seems broken just won't go back on. I am guessing since the key cylinder is not in the orginal position as when it came off I literary F$#@ed?
And suggestions how how to fix this.?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Quick update got the housing back on but the farthest the key will turn back to pull it out is not far enough
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I had taken out the lock cylinder when I rebuilt my '91 tilt column. Timing of the gears is very critical in getting it working like it should. These pictures are looking down the bore where the lock cylinder goes. They are in the position where the cylinder slips in and locks.
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Take your time and it will all finally fit together and work correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Bruner4,

Thanks for the quick reply, do I need to remove the upper actuator, to align the drive gear, that place it back in as one piece? And I have bearing over the bearing which is making hard to make sure I have the alignment that is on the second picture.

I also had these two small thin metal strips fallout when I initially removed the cowling with the lock cylinder any ideas?
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After you have the lock cylinder out, the 'rack' can be moved with everything else assembled. If I remember correctly it is the 'ON' position of the ignition switch. My biggest struggle after getting the tilt reassembled was the rack and brass gear.
I don't remember seeing the thin steel shims in mine, sorry.

So there is a long story behind rebuilding not just one, but 3 steering columns. I had just licked up a spare tilt column for the leather wrapped steering wheel. Everything was working. I pulled into the gas station and filled up one evening. Jumped in to leave and it wouldn't start, actuator broke when I shut it off. No problem as it would turn the ignition on but not start it. So I opened the hood and jumped the relay, engine now running. Got back in and couldn't get it out of park! Called my son and he grabbed the toolbox and spare steering column. He came over and the two of us changed out the whole column in 15 minutes. loaded up and drove home. So I found another tilt steering column and rebuilt it. Put it in the truck and all was fine. Then rebuilt the other two and sold one of them. The other one is going in my early Bronco.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
When sliding the "upper casting", that piece that holds the lock cylinder and brass gear ( I had to look that one up). The brass gear keeps getting caught up in the actuators teeth. So I was think take that out to make the alignment easier and then slide everything on as one piece.

15 minutes for a steering column, pretty good timing. I think it took me 15 minutes just to get the steering wheel and turn signal switch out.
 

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I’ll see if I can dig up some details from when I fixed my tilt head. I do remember removing the lock cylinder by depressing the button on the underside with a pinch and pulling the cylinder out with key in off position. Then I removed the brass gear, bearing, snap ring, etc (likely not in that order). Timing with the rack is critical and there’s a recommended key position and pinion/rack tooth orientation when you put it back together. Google “Actauator Replacement in an ‘85’. It’s a good FSB write up on the column.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
pacagerjr,
Thanks for the video, I watched that the other night, looking for answers. Also do those metal shims look familiar they fell out when removing the collar that has the cylinder lock in it. Not sure if it goes to the tilt column or not?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
So I line up the cylinder brass gear like the picture above. But when I go to slide on the cover the Upper actuator wont slide over the brass gear. And the brass gear wont rotate to allow the upper actuator to get full seated. I played with the brass gear position and when i am able to get it fully seated they key wont rotate all the way back. Just like the picture above. Do i need to take the slip rong off the brass gear to try and align it?
This is what it looks like. Firewall is to the right, steering wheel is to the left.
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Discussion Starter #11
So I figure the brass gear is not going all the way to the back of the upper actuators teeth. I am trying to have the brass gear turned so as It slides on the upper actuator the gear rotates into the proper position. But the gear does not want to turn? I have heard of using a flat head screw driver but at the same time saw a video and a post from an f150 forum where they broke the brass gear. Any suggestions.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
So figured it out. I just started pitting everything back together just to see what would happen. I removed the gear shifter for easier access for my dash, I guess over past two days the shroud that holds the gear shifter moved to drive. So hence why the key would not fully turn back.

But thanks for the posts and the pictures of the brass gear position I helped . When I pulled it out to align with the actuator.

Also just to make sure I had the actuator correcrly aligned I pushed it all the way forward to the ignition switch before I put in the lock cylinder. That's what your suppose to do since the key was in the start position right?
 
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