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Discussion Starter #1
I have a windfall of cash coming in the near future and have been thinking about lockers. The truck is a 1994 Bronco with a ZF5 and a stout 351. Both diffs are open, the front is a dana 50 that I swapped in to get 4:10 gears and the rear is an 8.8. I want to do big smokey burnouts more than I want to go offroad. Would a spartan or aussie locker stand up to that? Is a detroit locker the best way to go here? Or would a factory limited slip be ok. I think the front is going to get a powertrax since that's all I could find for a dana 50. The truck has 35s on it.
 

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Addicted to Junk
85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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A detroit locker is the least street friendly option, short of a full spool.

I'd go with a trutrac limited slip if it were me.
 

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'95 XLT: 5.8/MAF/E4OD/6" lift/4.56's/33x12.5x15
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Aussie is an off-road specific, "lunch-box" locker that I wouldn't use for that kind of drivetrain abuse. Had one up front on my last '90 and they're awesome for the grip but they rattle and clatter about, as they're designed to do and cornering with it engaged can be downright scary. For Bronco burn-outs, I would imagine you want everything as tight as a gnats ass or it will beat itself to death in short order.

Rear wheel burn-outs are one thing but if you're expecting 4 wheel burns on dry pavement in a Bronco with 35's... you're gonna need more than an OEM 5.0 powerplant, imle. I honestly wouldn't even know what direction to point you in for that kind of build.

It's a giant, off-road brick... not a drag strip hot rod. Hope you had a yuuuge windfall, if that's what you've got in mind.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Aussie is an off-road specific, "lunch-box" locker that I wouldn't use for that kind of drivetrain abuse. Had one up front on my last '90 and they're awesome for the grip but they rattle and clatter about, as they're designed to do and cornering with it engaged can be downright scary. For Bronco burn-outs, I would imagine you want everything as tight as a gnats ass or it will beat itself to death in short order.

Rear wheel burn-outs are one thing but if you're expecting 4 wheel burns on dry pavement in a Bronco with 35's... you're gonna need more than an OEM 5.0 powerplant, imle. I honestly wouldn't even know what direction to point you in for that kind of build.

It's a giant, off-road brick... not a drag strip hot rod. Hope you had a yuuuge windfall, if that's what you've got in mind.
It's not a 5.0 it's a 5.8. And I should be clear the front locker is for offroad while the rear is for burnouts. I don't have enough power for 4wd burnouts nor am I trying to do that. I think I read somewhere that lunchbox lockers aren't recommended for 35s?
 

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78 Custom 351M NP435 NP205 Sniper EFI Hedman Headers Magnaflow Muffler 4.56 Gears Grizzly lockers
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If you want two-wheel tire smoke and still want road manners I'd say some form of limited-slip would be the best best. Either a factory trac-lok with a tight clutch rebuild or a true-trac. If you get snow and ice where you live then a locker might not be the greatest in the rear. Having said that, if you go offroad a locker of some sort is pretty hard to beat.
 

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Ford-a-Holic
1996 EB w/5.8 TOO much lift, 44" Mudders & 5:43-5:38's
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Been there, done that, and broke every part I could in between. I ran a Detroit locker in the rear of my '74 with 5:14's and a 9". If you are running anything other than a stock tire, you are going to need axles. I could shear 31 splines axles with my 38" Mudders simply by going around a corner, granted I was running a built 351C, but I was breaking them with the 302 also.
Before I could afford gears. I'd race it at the local Industrial park, I'd drop it into 4 low and run it with the front hubs unlocked. Make sure your yokes are in good shape with no wear, run only Spicer U-joints and hardened axles. If you stay with the 8.8, run a C-clip eliminator or you might end doing a lot more damage if you end up spitting an axle.
If it were me, a Tru-Trac up front.

Just my $0.02
 

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78 & 92
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Would look into a good set of traction bars or a antiwrap bar as well. I do not think the factory LS is what you want to use as it will just wear out very quickly.
Id look into a trutrac or a detroit.

If you really want to do good ones, a line lock setup will make it much easier to get them started, likely little easier on parts like that as well as you don't need as big of an Inital hit to get em going.

Also check out rhuaf's build, which is somewhere on here
I think he has it figured out
 

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1996 EB w/5.8 TOO much lift, 44" Mudders & 5:43-5:38's
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.....Is True-Track e-lock or air?
If you are talking about a Detroit TrueTrac, it is neither; it's mechanical.
From their website:
"The Truetrac is a helical gear limited slip differential and never “locks up”. The Truetrac operates by transferring power from the spinning wheel to the wheel with the most traction. If one tire breaks traction, the amount of rotation (or spin) is controlled. The torque is then sent to the other tire that still has traction. "

Detroit TrueTrac:




Detroit Locker:

"The Detroit Locker is an automatic locking differential that is designed to lock both wheels of the rear axle together when torque is applied. It acts much like a spool that solidly connects both wheels together. In a turn, the unequal speed of the wheels forces the Detroit Locker to disengage "

 

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TrueTrac is the best LS. drives normal onroad and does not have clutches to wear out and also strong housing. works using helical gears so it does act abit different than a clutch based. the factory traclok ive seen shatter too many times for me to put any faith in them.

i would weld your axle tubes to the housing if you plan on doing burnouts. also traction bars help alot. i could never really get a bronco to do good burnouts, it gets really bad wheel hop. really my most successful attempts were doing them in reverse.

for the D50 you are pretty limited as you saw. theres the Yukon Grizzley locker, Yukon Duragrip limited slip, a cheaper knockoff of the Duragrip, and the factory 'snowfighter' traclok limited slip or soemthing. i found the Duragrip works jsut fine in my F250, i got the Grizzly in my bronco with 37s and its held up
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I'm leaning towards the detroit for the rear and the powertrax for the front since it's cheap and doesn't need a gear set up. If it blows the diff I can always get another D50 pumpkin for 100$
 

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changing a carrier is much easier than a full regear tho it does pretty much need setup bearings on the D50 in order to shim it.

i jsut hate the idea of a lunchbox locker in a TTB axle. its alot of work in order to get to it and if it ever has an issue its a real pain to have to tear it back down. also ive heard from someone that if using the c-clip eliminator spring trick, his lunchbo locker would sometimes engage and disengaged awkwardly as the suspension moved. my theory is that the resistance needed for the slipyoke to extend and contract is too much for the spring to overcome quickly enough, so the splined in the diff were sliding and causing the side gear ofthe lcoker to mess up.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
changing a carrier is much easier than a full regear tho it does pretty much need setup bearings on the D50 in order to shim it.

i jsut hate the idea of a lunchbox locker in a TTB axle. its alot of work in order to get to it and if it ever has an issue its a real pain to have to tear it back down. also ive heard from someone that if using the c-clip eliminator spring trick, his lunchbo locker would sometimes engage and disengaged awkwardly as the suspension moved. my theory is that the resistance needed for the slipyoke to extend and contract is too much for the spring to overcome quickly enough, so the splined in the diff were sliding and causing the side gear ofthe lcoker to mess up.
I hear what you're saying about the D50 but I can remove the pumpkin in about 40 minutes so it's not a huge problem. If I had unlimited funds I would do air lockers or E lockers front and rear. Are you talking about the C clip in the front diff? I haven't eliminated it and don't plan to. I have changed the inner u joint before with the diff in the truck and the extra time to remove the pumpkin doesn't bother me. I'm willing to spend on the rear diff since that one gets used every day whereas the front I use every couple months or so. I would rather save money on the front diff and buy a winch.
 

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If the Detroit Trutrac is anything like a Zexel Torsten limtedslip and you ever intend to go off-roading I’d not recommend that diff. IIRC If one wheel looses contact with the ground you could loose all traction on that axle.
 

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85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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If the Detroit Trutrac is anything like a Zexel Torsten limtedslip and you ever intend to go off-roading I’d not recommend that diff. IIRC If one wheel looses contact with the ground you could loose all traction on that axle.
The trutrac works great in the rocks at moab...

OP, you could always put a d44 third member into your TTB and have unlimited options, just fyi.
 

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If the Detroit Trutrac is anything like a Zexel Torsten limtedslip and you ever intend to go off-roading I’d not recommend that diff. IIRC If one wheel looses contact with the ground you could loose all traction on that axle.
A tap of the brakes can fix that. Trutrac works fantastic, pulled me through some nasty stuff more than once.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
The trutrac works great in the rocks at moab...

OP, you could always put a d44 third member into your TTB and have unlimited options, just fyi.
I could but I need the 410 gears and don't want to spend money. I might even skip the front locker and spend my money on a good winch.
 

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I guess that would work.

Edit: Unless you are driving a manual transmission.
 
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