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Hello, people of FSB! I must say that I have really been using this forum lately to learn about full size Broncos, and I am happy to be here! I have been looking at a 93 EB Bronco with a 351W and E4OD transmission. The body and frame are solid. There is not a spec of rust, except for the tailgate, but from what I have read, that is a common occurrence. The interior is rough, with seat covers on all the seats, but I don't mind. The truck has roughly 240,000 miles on it. I do not know the maintenance history of the Bronco, but it seems to be in good shape mechanically. I checked for leaks, play in the drive shaft, and I made sure that it went into 4WD. Both 4x4 high and low work (it has the "shift on the fly" buttons, so I was concerned that they might not work). What else should I look at it? This would be my first Bronco.

I did, however, find a few issues with the truck (yes, I know it's 22 years old), and I am asking you guys what you think. First issue is that it shifted a little hard from 1st to 2nd, but only when it was cold. After that it shifted fine in the forward gears. My second issue is that when I put it into reverse, it jumped hard into gear. It actually really surprised me! From what I have read, this could be a plethora of things, but what are some things it could be? Sensor? Solenoid? The ABS light is also on, and when I was driving it, the CEL came on. I haven't had that happen to me in an OBD1 car before. Maybe a dumb question, but could that also be a transmission code? Last real issue is that the oil pressure gauge sat right on the N in NORMAL. I bet it's a dummy unit, like on my Mustang GT, but just wanted to ask you guys about the severity of that.

I can pick the Bronco up for around $1,800. I think it's good deal, but I want to hear what y'all have to say. Thanks in advance!

Super Moderator
26,048 Posts
yo O2,
We have a 96, bought it new in May 96 and basically, we "over-maintain" it...meaning 3k mile oil/filter changes & lube, all filters changed, etc.. using Ford's severe duty schedule; see a Link at end of reply

One of the most reliable daily drivers and beach run/light off road vehicles we've have ever had (incl the ex 78).
Still, we had minor problems that we addressed quickly.

Besides the usual visual, driveability and leak checks, look for:
oil pan, our's formed spots @ 62k miles - sand it down and prime/paint it w/ Rustoleum high temp. paint
tailgate drains for clogs/rust; check weather seals, esp the outer ws on glass
radiator core support rust where it bolts to the frame
rain gutters, bottom of B-pillars & A pillars
gas tank
leaf spring shackles
body mounts and frame
floor pan esp around rear seat belt mount
inner rear fender lips, bottom of B pillars and bottom of tailgate (fender lips are rusting due to Ford's flawed spot weld process on the inner (tub) and 1/4 panel that lets moisture & debris in the seam) - A Bronco may need extensive & $$$ patch or full panel replacements...

- radiator plastic side seam leaks, esp. during engine cool-down period/overnight - ours leaked @ 50k miles & again just recently - look for leaks after engine has cooled down, esp overnight
- look for leaks around pan from (front) Pump seal as well as engine rear main/timing chain cover seals, etc.
- auto tranny - E4OD had a lot of improvements made by 96 so look for good shifts and see the maintenance records; fluids/filter should have been changed every 30k miles and less if used for towing.
-- radius arm bushing deterioration (I coated them w/pure silicone, from day 1) but replaced at 80k miles w/Daystar polyurethane bushings
- Programmable Speedometer Odometer Module (PSOM in 92-96), make sure it works; look for a waver in the needle at highway speeds; most get yard units for DIY or troubleshoot for other issues.
- look for some maint records or contact a dealer to see what maint was done to it a Ford dealership in the past (need VIN)
or on-line dealer service record summaries (Ford is adding entries now), etc. at Ford (need VIN) & must register if you haven't already for your other Fords.
- cracked exhaust manifold/Y, etc.
- roof/gutter area cracks
- emissions air check valve & cat. converter (AIR) tubes tend to rust early; as does the AIR tube; buy locally or from

For pre 96 with EFI do a SELF TEST - my pal BroncoJoe at

- transfer case operation - electric push button motor/connector is a prob. area; usually a broken travel stop or the motor connector is fouled, etc.

Also the Check Engine Light (CEL) comes on when the electronic engine control system is not working properly. The check engine warning indicator comes on briefly when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON, and should turn off when the engine starts. If the check engine warning indicator does not come on when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON or if it comes on while the vehicle is moving, the system is malfunctioning
If the CEL does not light up at all when starting it; then suspect that bulb is burnt-out or loose, socket was damaged by PO or shop, etc. or someone removed it, which does happen, unfortunately.
The 4-wheel anti-lock brake system in 93-96 is self monitoring. When the ignition switch is placed in the RUN position, the anti-lock brake electronic control module will perform a preliminary self check on the anti-lock electrical system indicated by a momentary illumination of the amber ABS warning light in the instrument cluster. During vehicle operation, including normal and anti-lock braking, the anti-lock brake electronic control module monitors all electrical anti-lock functions and some hydraulic operations. In most malfunctions of the anti-lock brake system, the amber ABS warning light will be illuminated. However, most malfunctions are recorded as a coded number in the anti-lock brake electronic control module memory and assist in pinpointing the component needing service.

Most credit unions use NADA to appraise value; deduct $ for required repairs.

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