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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi everyone,

I am looking at this 86 bronco with about 100k but wanted to know what I’m getting in to be for I consider buying it. It’s an 86 v8 5.8 4x4 automatic. It’s really nice inside and out. Only problem is that it doesn’t go in reverse. I figure I’d take this opportunity to get it cheaper and upgrade the tranny. We’ll see!

I was wondering how much I should be looking at for price? I don’t want to overpay. Also, what mpg am I looking at? Im mainly a city driver. I was peaking around and saw some of you guys get like 8mpg. That’s scary!? Also, I’m pretty sure that is a Bronco 2. I don’t think that year came in a v8 5.8. I’m seeing 2.8 and a 2.9 both v6. Can someone elaborate?

I guess that’s all the questions for now. I posted a photo for you guys down low.

I’m graduating from college soon and this is kind of a gift to myself. Anyway, I look forward to hearing and learning from you guys. I’m not a great mechanic but always like to pick the brains on knowledgeable people.

if I decide not to buy it, I’ll pass on the info so one of you guys can grab it.

Thanks in advance,

Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" lift on 33's
35,887 Posts
That's NOT a FULLSIZE BRONCO. That's a Bronco II. It's not based on the same platform as out rigs. Bronco shares parts with the F150 truck's. Bronco II's share parts with the Ranger pickups. You'll likely find more experienced help at another forum: The Ranger Station – Your Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource Since 1999

Not trying to sound harsh or be a buzzkill. Just pointing you in the right direction.

Super Moderator
24,689 Posts
Yo Yowakawaka,
As BikerPepe` advised.

If you're interested in a fullsize Bronco, (78-96 model years) here are some tips:

Our Navy Federal Credit Union used to suggest using for finding the "value" of a vehicle.

Member dash_cam offers very good advice on having an independent inspection done at sellers location! If you cant inspect it yourself, post Location in the noobie section and ask members for their help or seek out an ASE certified shop in area to inspect it for you. ASE is National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence, read about it @ About ASE - ASE.
Find an ASE shop @ Shop Locator - ASE
Google each for reviews especially in Yelp, Facebook, BBB.

Order a CARFAX™. Although not all accident info May not be provided, other important info is provided @

VINCheck® by National Insurance Crime Bureau is a free service provided to the public to assist in determining if a"... vehicle has been reported as stolen, but not recovered, or has been reported as a salvage vehicle by cooperating NICB member insurance companies. To perform a search, a vehicle identification number (VIN) is required. A maximum of five searches can be conducted within a 24-hour period per IP address." @ VINCheck® | National Insurance Crime Bureau

While you take a drive, have someone stay behind or follow and check for exhaust smoke, tire shimmy, etc.
Blue/Gray Smoke:
PCV System: A stuck closed PCV valve will cause excessive crankcase pressure resulting in blue/gray smoke.
Oil burning in the combustion chamber. Pull a few spark plugs & inspect.

Black Smoke: Black exhaust smoke is an indication of rich fuel condition. These are possible causes:
Fuel Injectors: A leaking or dripping fuel injector will cause a rich fuel condition.
Fuel Pressure Regulator: A stuck closed fuel pressure regulator will cause a rich fuel condition.
Fuel Return: A restricted fuel return line will cause a rich fuel condition.

White/Gray Smoke: White exhaust smoke is an indication that coolant is burning in the combustion chamber. These are possible causes:
Cylinder Head: A crack in the cylinder head (around the coolant jacket) will cause coolant to enter the combustion chamber.
Engine Block: A crack in the deck of an engine block near the coolant jacket will cause coolant to enter the combustion chamber.
Head Gasket: A damaged or blown head gasket will cause coolant to enter the combustion chamber resulting in white/gray smoke coming from the tailpipe.
by ASE

Engine oil leak perps:
Valve cover gaskets
Intake manifold gaskets
Head gaskets
Oil filter
Distributor O-ring
Oil level indicator (dipstick) tube connection
Oil pressure sensor
Cup plugs and/or pipe plugs at end of oil passages

Under Engine, with Vehicle on Hoist:
Rusted Oil pan and/or gasket
Oil pan front and rear end seals
Crankshaft front seal
Crankshaft rear oil seal
Engine damper keyway (damper to damper bolt/washer interface)
by Ford

In 90-96, if it has the E4OD, it's a fully automatic, electronically controlled, four-speed unit with a torque converter clutch.
For it or C6 three speed or AOD with overdrive automatics, look for leaks around pan from (front) Pump seal. Observe color and odor of the fluid. It should be red, not brown or black. Dark brown or black fluid that has distinct burnt odor, indicates a transmission in need of repair or overhaul.
Odor may indicate overheating condition, clutch disc or band failure. Use an absorbent white facial tissue and wipe the fluid level indicator. Examine the stain for evidence of solid particles and for engine coolant signs (gum or varnish on fluid level indicator).
If particles are present in the fluid or there is evidence of engine coolant or water, the transmission pan must be removed for further inspection.

In non-carbureted Broncos, Check Engine Light (CEL) comes on when the electronic engine control system is not working properly. The check engine warning indicator comes on briefly when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON, and should turn off when the engine starts. If the check engine warning indicator does not come on when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON or if it comes on while the vehicle is moving, the system is malfunctioning
If the CEL does not light up at all when starting it; then suspect that bulb is burnt-out or loose, socket was damaged by PO or shop, etc. or someone removed it.
Try a SELF TEST for diagnostic trouble codes (DTC)s by my pal BroncoJoe
or have such as Equus 3145 Innova OBD I Code Reader for Ford EEC IV Engines at Walmart & most parts stores

Cash is King⚠
When Richard Rawling, star of TV show Fast N' Loud was growing up in Fort Worth, Texas, his dad, Raymond Rawlings always had a car or a motorcycle lying around. “It wasn’t the nicest or the best, but it was his,” the younger Rawlings says. Ray wasn’t much of a mechanic, more of a detailer and a tinkerer. On weekends, the guys in the neighborhood would come over, mess around with whatever car Ray had at the time and drink beer in the garage.
One of those guys who came around also taught Rawlings a lesson about negotiating that he still carries with him: “I was around 13. He said, ‘Son, you could buy a $10,000 car all day long for five grand if you have it in your pocket. ➡Always carry cash.’ ”

"Cashier’s checks can be forged, money orders can be forged, and personal/business checks can be forged. Cash can also be, but it’s harder to make believable and easier to test. Take a powerful magnet with you. Yes a magnet. You see, on top of ID strips and watermarks, the ink the federal reserve uses has iron in it, therefore it will be attracted to a powerful magnet.
"by Froggmann @ 8 steps to protect yourself when selling a vehicle.
Banks cash fakes, then hold you responsible. ..
As craigslist advises, "Do not extend payment to anyone you have not met in person.
Beware offers involving shipping - deal with locals you can meet in person.
Never wire funds (e.g. Western Union) - anyone who asks you to is a scammer.

Sometimes a seller may "promise" to return a certain amount of money during negotiations..
Transactions are between users only, no third party provides a "guarantee".
Never give out financial info (bank account, social security #, paypal account, etc).

A summary of questions to ask the seller;
Do you have the maintenance records?
Do you have the title in hand and is there a lien on the Bronco?
How do I get the title?
Has the vehicle been in any accidents?
Did this car belong to a smoker?
Was this car used by pet owners?
Can I receive close-up pictures of a specific area (miesk5 note, such as on 1/4 panels, tailgate, etc)?
Are there any document or preparation fees?"
Courtesy of ebay

General Inspection Checklist by Free VIN Check Reports and VIN Check with some changes by me.
Windshield free of cracks
Body panel colors match
Magnet adheres to all steel body panels
Fresh paint job (if yes, it could be to conceal rust)
Seams where the tailgate and hood close are properly aligned
Seams where doors and fenders meet are properly aligned
Free of body scratches
Free of body dents
Windshields wipers and blades fully functional
Headlights and directional lights intact and fully functional
Tires are all of the same size
Tires are of free of any cuts, bubbles or cracks
Tread worn evenly (uneven wear indicates alignment and suspension problems)
Spare tire, jack and lug wrench on Bronco and fully functional
Spare tire inflated
Free of fluid or oil leaks
Oil filler neck not coated with thick, black deposits
Battery terminals free of corrosion
Free of odors while engine is running
Exhaust pipe emissions are neither blue (indicates engine burns oil) or black (indicate excessive oil consumption)
Vehicle rests levelly
When bouncing the vehicle's corners, no creaking noises are made
All corners respond the same when bouncing
All doors open and close freely
Tailgate opens and closes freely
Lacks a heavy scent of air freshener (may indicate something is being concealed)
All gauges work
No dashboard warning lights remain illuminated
Stereo works
Heater works
Air conditioner works
Windshield wipers work
Windshield wiper fluid dispenses properly
All seats equipped with functional seat belts
All seats adjust properly
Power windows operate properly
Alarm works (if applicable)
Tailgate and door lock and unlock with key
Hazard lights function properly
Headlights, including brights, work properly
Chassis is neither bent nor cracked
No signs of welds, crumpling or straightening inside the cargo area
*No signs of crumpling or straightening espeically in front "accordion section (crumple zone)

Automatic Transmission
Transmission neither slips nor delays when driving
Manual or Standard Transmission
Each gear shifts smoothly
No grinding noises when in reverse
Vehicle steers straight and does not pull to one side when applying brakes
Parking brake engages and disengages freely
No grinding noises when applying
Wheels do not lock when applying antilock brakes
Vehicle does not drift to one side without prodding
Vehicle is stable; no shaking or vibrating
No resistance in the steering wheel when turning
No clicking or clunking when turning
Owners manual located in the glove compartment
Instructions included for any accessories"

Post pics here or in Noobie Section.
How to Post Pics @ How to POST PICTURES

Goid hunting!

1984, 300 L6, smogless, manual 3speed with overdrive.
1,395 Posts
Get a FSB I love mine.
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