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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i got a 94 f150 with a 302 an E4OD. 2 days ago i went to leave my house and made it about a mile before i completely lost all power. engine still would run but the rpms wouldnt pick up when i hit the gas, and it would backfire. heres a list of parts/ udgrades ive done in the past 4000 miles. and probably have 1000 miles on the motor since the last one.

Cap and Rotor
Autolite spark plugs
Taylor Wires
K&N cold air kit
bassani y-pipe
bbk headers
3" magnaflow cat
full exhaust
smog pump bypassed
egr blocked off
180* t-stat(i know i neeed to change out)
Idle Control Valve


now i checked the codes and got :

KOEO 33, 117, 221, 245, & 217

KOER 172, & 232

im wondering what the problem might be?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
fuel pressure is good. i have never cleared the codes. yes i looked up the codes, i know one is egr and coolant temp sensor which wound make sense. the ones i dont know about are 172 right HEGO indicates lean condition, and 217 #3 coil primary failure,221spark timing error and code 245 i cant find. it will run good sometimes but bad at others. when its running bad the idle will drop and stumble til it cuts off.

it sounds like it only backfires form the driver side cylinders. that from what i can tell while driving. girlfriend was in passenger seat and said it only sounds like its coming from the driver side
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
ive had the negative terminal removed from the battery not to long ago. around the time i did the SAS probably 1000 miles ago. not sure if that clears the codes
 

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I would ask what methodology you're using to check codes????

You should not get a "217 #3 coil primary failure" on any engine with a distributor.

Are you sure it's a '94?
Joe
 

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OK, aside from the last, loss of power and backfiring is generally indicative of a lean condition. I'd make sure the injectors are clean and put a fresh filter on the fuel lines out of the tank.
Joe
 

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fuel pressure is good. i have never cleared the codes. yes i looked up the codes, i know one is egr and coolant temp sensor which wound make sense. the ones i dont know about are 172 right HEGO indicates lean condition, and 217 #3 coil primary failure,221spark timing error and code 245 i cant find. it will run good sometimes but bad at others. when its running bad the idle will drop and stumble til it cuts off.
it sounds like it only backfires form the driver side cylinders. that from what i can tell while driving. girlfriend was in passenger seat and said it only sounds like its coming from the driver side
:scratchhe And you can tell inside the truck which side its exactly coming from?

ive had the negative terminal removed from the battery not to long ago. around the time i did the SAS probably 1000 miles ago. not sure if that clears the codes
Yes. This will clear the codes

I would ask what methodology you're using to check codes????

You should not get a "217 #3 coil primary failure" on any engine with a distributor.

Are you sure it's a '94?
Joe
:stupid
OK, aside from the last, loss of power and backfiring is generally indicative of a lean condition. I'd make sure the injectors are clean and put a fresh filter on the fuel lines out of the tank.
Joe
New fuel filter would be a good idea but if it came on all of a sudden, then I would start with your codes. The coolant temp sensor is what I personally would start with. This sensor tells your computer how much gas it should send into your cylinders by measuring the coolant temp. Its kinda like the choke on a carburator motor. Its not that expensive, and make sure you get the one thats for the computer and not the gauge.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
i checked the codes by ground the self test input. i followed the instructions on fordfuelinjection (fireguys website) and if you click the link that steve posted and it said the #3 coil primary failure was only a code for 94-95.

yes its a 94. its also MAF

steve83 if your talking about my o/d lockout is it works.
 

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you might check your timing if you havn't already. kinda sounds like the bolt on your distributer hold down might have loosened up and rotated on you since i see you just did plugs and wires cap and rotor. it also might be a bad mass air sensor. i had a simular prob with a 90 gt mustang i had and it turned out to be a bad mass air sensor. jsut some sugestions to check out. sorry i cant spell to save my life.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I havent checked the timing and will do. I checked to see if it was loose and i couldnt turn the dizzy. I also have a spare mass air flow sensor so i'll swap those out and see if it still does it.

As for the shift key i was pretty trashed typin those posts lol sorry
 
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