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1979 bronco
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Discussion Starter #1
hello thanks in advance for any help. I just bought a 79 with 1ton axles. I don't know what the donor vehicle was. My problem is my brake pedal is super low. I bled them and adjusted the rear drums, when I pinch the front brake hoses off I get a good pedal. It has a new master cyl. I think the master cyl. isn't moving enough fluid for the front calipers? so I'm not sure of my options... different calipers? different master cyl.? that being said I have no clue what ones I would need. I think this is a pretty common upgrade, but im having trouble finding information.
 

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Sounds like you have air in the system or there's a leak somewhere, double check that all the bolts on on tight on the calipers


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1979 bronco
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Discussion Starter #3
I’ll bleed them again. Should there be any issues using the Dana 60 brakes with the stock master cyl?
 

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1979 bronco
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Discussion Starter #7
I didn't put it in so I just bench bled it and adjusted the pushrod today
 

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1979 bronco
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Discussion Starter #8
pedal is still low I'm going to start over I have to be missing something
 

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YomJustlucky,
Welcome!
As canuckistan97 advised, benchbleed MC.
□■□
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My Tablet takes hours to download, so try the first in this list as long as you have Adobe Acrobat 9 or later installed.
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Chassis Manuals & Diagrams Download PDF
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Let me know if the downloads are worth the effort.

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Partial Chilton Manual for 1978, 1979, 1980, 1981 Bronco. Scanned by broncocity.com @ Bronco City

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1979 bronco
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Discussion Starter #10
Ok so to update. I bench bled the master. I bled the entire brake system for the 3rd time. I adjusted the rear drums and inspected the front calipers for binding. I checked all the hoses for ballooning and checked for leaks. No problems found. I have a good pedal with the truck off but with it running and the booster working it goes to the floor. Any other ideas? I’m out
 

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Joisey don't smell funny
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My pedal was very soft at times, almost going to the floor. I finally, after bleeding several times and not getting any better, just replaced the master cylinder with a new one. Haven't had an issue since. Maybe that, or a seal in booster is shot, though I'm not well versed on the interior schematics of a brake booster.
EDIT: A quick search of brake boosters says that if the diaphragm inside fails, you should still have manual brakes, just harder to push the pedal obviously. So, I would swap out the master cylinder. The piston seals probably have leak by.
 

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84 Bronco, 351w, c6, custom doubler, np208, 5.13’s, TTB44, 9”, locked f/r
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Do you have any “free play” in the petal? If you pull the master off the booster, the rod coming out of the booster should be threaded and adjustable. You can try unthreatening it a bit, see if that helps
 
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Discussion Starter #13
OK so I was doing some research on master cylinders and I think I want to do a F350 swap. I think it"ll work well with the dana 60 brakes being bigger than the stock brakes. my question is which booster/master do I get? it seems like there were a few options. i'll buy a new one, I think they come together as a set
 

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Do you have any “free play” in the petal? If you pull the master off the booster, the rod coming out of the booster should be threaded and adjustable. You can try unthreatening it a bit, see if that helps
For a gen 2? Replaced my MC the other day and that rod didn't thread that I could notice, could freely pull it in and out of the booster


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84 Bronco, 351w, c6, custom doubler, np208, 5.13’s, TTB44, 9”, locked f/r
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For a gen 2? Replaced my MC the other day and that rod didn't thread that I could notice, could freely pull it in and out of the booster


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I believe so, but now you’ve got me second guessing myself since it’s been 5 or so years since I’ve messed with a master on a 78-79. I don’t see why it would be too terribly different in function than an 80-96. It should be movable in and out, but the tip that contacts with the piston in the master should be threaded. It’s not immediately obvious, the tip is rounded, but it should be threaded if you look in there. You probably need to hold the rod when you spin the tip or it will just turn the whole thing
 
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I believe so, but now you’ve got me second guessing myself since it’s been 5 or so years since I’ve messed with a master on a 78-79. I don’t see why it would be too terribly different in function than an 80-96. It should be movable in and out, but the tip that contacts with the piston in the master should be threaded. It’s not immediately obvious, the tip is rounded, but it should be threaded if you look in there. You probably need to hold the rod when you spin the tip or it will just turn the whole thing
You're right, I never noticed it. Going to lengthen it a bit




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Ended up threading it out like 3-5mm and it made a world of a difference, the pedal is now firm and doesn't travel to the ground. Guess those repro MC's aren't up to the exact spec and the pushrod needs to be lengthened to engage properly



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78 BRONCO RANGER XLT -351M-C6-NP203 TO 205 SWAP -9IN 3.50 REAR
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Ended up threading it out like 3-5mm and it made a world of a difference, the pedal is now firm and doesn't travel to the ground. Guess those repro MC's aren't up to the exact spec and the pushrod needs to be lengthened to engage properly



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Now if I remove my MC and try to adjust my Booster like you did---- if its possible on mine?? -Is there a way of removing the MC so you don't have to bench bleed it when putting it back on???
 

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Now if I remove my MC and try to adjust my Booster like you did---- if its possible on mine?? -Is there a way of removing the MC so you don't have to bench bleed it when putting it back on???
Yes I didnt bench bleed it after it doesnt lose pressure just make sure not to kink the hardlines


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78 BRONCO RANGER XLT -351M-C6-NP203 TO 205 SWAP -9IN 3.50 REAR
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Yes I didnt bench bleed it after it doesnt lose pressure just make sure not to kink the hardlines


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Do you have to plug up the 2 ports I guess so fluid doesn't come out and air in???
 
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