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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Don't you guys hate it when you go awhile and have no problems with your truck...then it seems like everything just builds up into a few weeks? Well, its my turn again for the consistent problems.

My tranny was leaking from its front seal last month. I took it to a tranny shop because I don't have the tools or know how to fix that. They dropped it and replaced both the front and rear seals, replaced the tranny filter, and put all new tranny fluid in. Total cost :600 bucks.

After wheeling this past Sunday, my trucks battery finally died. I wasn't too surprised because the battery is old, and I knew it was not going to last much longer. My buddy jumped it, and I was on my way...hoping that it was just a fluke. Sunday night, it started right up, no problems. Monday morning going to work, no problems, and on my way back no problems. Until I reached the car wash. Of course the damn thing dies there. :doh0715: I had my buddy who works at Autozone down the street come jump it, then I drove it straight to his work where I shut it off, and of course it was dead again. He tested the battery, and to no surprise it was dead. After purchasing a new one (Duralast Yellow Top...marked at 95 bucks and with his discount I got it for about 70), he tested my alternator. It wasn't reading 100 percent ( I believe he said it was reading 13.5 volts, when optimum output is 14.5), but he said it wasn't anything to bad. It was fine and didn't need replacing. So, off I went on my way.

Today rolls around and of course something new happens. After accelerating to about 40 mph, and letting off the throttle, the trucks RPM's drop way down almost killing the truck. No check engine light yet. I was wondering if it had something to do with the battery/alternator. After a few more minutes of driving, the check engine light does come on, so I took it to Autozone. Pulled codes, and get codes 171 and 174. Both have to do with the fuel system for bank 1 and 2 being too lean. Bank 1 identifies the location of cylinder 1 and bank 2 identifies the cylinders on the opposite bank. The computer says that if bank one and two codes are thrown together, suspect the MAF sensor...which makes sense.

The computer also says these other possibilities.

1. Failed H02S21. Not sure what this is. Can anyone tell me?

2. Ignition misfire condition.

3. Fuel injector problem

So, what do you guys think the most likely problem is? I can get a new MAF from Autozone for 100 bucks after I return my old one back to them. Anyone have any other solutions to this problem? Can I get an upgraded one online?
 

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Diagnose/Test components before you replace 'em to save a buck!

Is the intake plumbing intact?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Diagnose/Test components before you replace 'em to save a buck!

Is the intake plumbing intact?
Yeah, I checked it and everything seems intact. Is it common for the MAF's to go out? I have 121,000 miles on it
 

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Satyr of the Midwest
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I'd start by testing fuel pressure and looking for vacuum leaks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'd start by testing fuel pressure and looking for vacuum leaks.
I have already checked for vacuum leaks, didn't see anything. How do you test fuel pressure?

My fuel pump went out, and I had it replaced about 8 months ago.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I've also heard you can attempt to clean the MAF. This true?

If I end up having to replace it, it is easy right? I know in general it is easy, but I mean do you have to have anything re programmed or what?
 

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you can clean the maf. just be carefull when you clean it. you can mess it up worse or junk it. and if thats not the problem then theres something new you need.
 
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