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Discussion Starter #1
Ok guys heres the deal

My bronco is experiencing a major loss of power at all times, espiecially while driving up hills, i seafoamed it to see if that would help and i noticed something strange NO smoke, so im thinking clogged cat?

Also, my mileage has gone from 13~ to around 4mpg, and when i nail the throttle, its making a real deep intake roar, a-lot like it would sound if you rev it up and then turn the ignition off, its that deep.

Shes not backfiring or anything, just really weak.

EDIT: it wont even break the tires loose anymore (very very low torque), and After trying when i stopped i could smell fuel.

I will test with a vacuum gauge later to check for clogged exhaust if that what yall think it is
 

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Clogged cats is my first guess..
 

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Discussion Starter #3
time to bust out the old vacuum gauge then
 

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The FIRST thing you should do is "pull codes" from the vehicle computer and see what "faults" are indcated so you have a better idea on how to diagnose....perform KOEO = key on engine off and KOER = key on engine running... for How to go here: www.fordfuelinjection.com for FREE code numbers and explanations and www.broncolinks.com for additional help along with your Haynes Repair Manual...if necessary.

You can either pull codes probably for your year BKO using an OBD-2 Ford Code Reader with diagnostic book which is much faster OR learn the "pulsing technique" which IMO is a PITA....the code reader runs around $29.99 at O'Reillys...

MAP or MAF sensor might be an issue, a vacuum leak in the emissions system can rob an engine of power or lack of compression in one or more of the cylinders.....but without knowing what codes are indicated, it's just guessing you know..

Let us know what you find....

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 

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Discussion Starter #5
ok KOEO codes 11, memory codes: 33, 62, 69

only KOER code is 44

(i have no smog pump)
 

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cut all exhaust off run open headers that's what i do you don't need to worry about cats sounds like music to! but at the very least i would have the cat removed and a pipe welded in to replace it that sounds like your problem! Good luck!
 

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Code: 44 - Thermactor Air Injection System fault, inoperative, right side - emissions system

I'm not familiar with the 90 BKO but from my experience with this it could be anywhere in the remaining emissions system depending on what parts are still intact ....ie: EGR valve, EGR sensor, EGR soleniods, vacuum line/s plastic or rubber are cracked, split or broken, easily repaired or an Air Bypass valve or Check valve/s are causing the code......

I would do a visual inspection to see if your 90 BKO has the Exhaust Cross -Over Tube bolted to the back of the cylinder heads....if so it's usually the "check valve" on top of the tube that rusts and burns thru sucking in air creating a vacuum leak, changing the EGR air stream from up to down essentially going out the CAT instead of thru the engine, in general causing a loss of power...

Check Valve costs around $20.00 in most Auto Parts stores or Pollution Control Industires Inc. or www.pciinc.com...

I'm not sure how the emissions smog system functions without the pump or passes smog tests.......?

code: 33 - EGR valve opens not detected - emissions system
PFE or EVP circut closed

code: 62 - 4/3 or 3/2 pressure switch circut failed open - transmisison
Coverter clutch error E4OD

code: 69 - 3-4 shift error - transmission

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 

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Discussion Starter #8
the crossover pipe is still there, so ill cap the vacuum nipple. there is no other smog related stuff on the truck, (even the tube that went into the exhaust pipe was welded shut by the P.O)

as for the transmission codes, im gonna erase my codes, and then see if they come back, (im thinking those were caused by some wheeling i did a couple of weeks ago where a stick pushed my mlps connector off.
 

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If you still have the Exhaust Cross Over Tube bolted on to the back of the cylinder heads, pull it off and get some bolts and block the exhaust ports....keep that C/O Tube Brother as they're getting harder to find should you need it down the road.....:rockon


Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 

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simple stuff first, check your plugs, my buddy had the same problem, the plugs were about 20,000 miles over the interval and way worn down.... after installing new plugs- it drove like a dream and could tackle the steepest hills with ease.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
ok the plugs have only 3k miles on them, they are e3 plugs, it has an msd street fire coil, a replacement TFI Module, and a acdelco cap and rotor, with moroso super 40 plug wires, all have ~3k miles on them

ignition shouldnt be the issue

::::::::: I ran the test with te vacuum gauge and its not doing what i expected it to if the exhaust was clogged, (normally with a clogged exhaust you would expect to see the pressure start strong and then dwindle out), its staying strong at around 17in.hg no flicker just rock steady, but while driving, to go up even baby hills its dropping to like 5in.hg.

i ran codes again after driving about 55 miles, and nothing but code 11 :)

im running out of ideas, if yall still think its the cats, ill have my muffler shop cut them out and replace em

EDIT: Timing is about 13.5 ~14 degrees with SPOUT unplugged
 

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Discussion Starter #13
they have worked fine for 3k miles can they just suddenly crap out
 

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Discussion Starter #15
could bad plugs cause my problem though?
 

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If you've done the Sixlitre ignition and timing upgrade, he suggests the basic cheap Autolites for best results..

Have you "resolved" all codes issues: 33, 44, 62 and 69 completely, not just erased but fixed or resolved.....?

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 

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Discussion Starter #17
resolved, no. code 44 is because there is no smog pump or related hardware, the egr code idk ive replaced egr and evr everything. trans codes are because my mlps got knocked off and also i didnt fully shift into d one day.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
OMG guys im an idiot. i just went to double check my timing and guess what it is sitting at 2* advance.... no wonder it wont run for s**T
 

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OMG guys im an idiot. i just went to double check my timing and guess what it is sitting at 2* advance.... no wonder it wont run for s**T
haha well that could be a good reason why. As far as those E3 plugs... everyone Ive talked to has said they are junk, so next plug change I would change them out, normally you can just run normal auto lites then once you get to like 115,000 miles or around there they suggest you go to a platinum auto lite then when you get into some higher milage on the truck go double platinum.
just my .02 on plugs
 
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