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376 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I figured here is the place for a build thread. If I'm wrong, move it and let me know please!

So here it sits, my '95 Bronco that I have dubbed "Dufus." I only coined him that since when I first bought him, the shocks were all blown and it rode like a big lummox. Here's some progress pics.

It's a '95, XLT, 185kmi, 5.0L, auto. It has been repainted, an older model front seat installed. However, he will serve his purpose: To be used for dirty jobs or transportation in the snow/woods.

Current progress:
CB, 33's on 15's, custom front bumper (In progress), front diff drain plug, beefed-up carbon fiber trac-lok unit, B&M diff cover, an actual tune-up, Saginaw pump swap, 2" lift in the front with 4" rear, and T-case clocked flat.

Still on the to-do list in no particular order:
-Fix broken passenger-side dash mount. (Done)
-New rear bumper w/ spare tire mount.
-Fix the PO's janky trailer hitch wiring/routing.
-Move side mirrors forward.
-Interior lighting with selectable white or red output. (Done, all red LED interior lighting)
-Side exit exhaust so I can drive with my rear window down. (Done)
-Install On Board Air with removable compressor.
-Interior storage solution for the rear of the truck. A cargo-carrier is occupying the rear. I would like to make a rail/track type system to lift it off of the floor, as well as be able to retain it in the event of a roll-over, accident, etc...
-Install Expedition console (Installed, not painted)
-6" lift or D44 SAS. Will decide based on parts availability when funding is available.
-Soft-top (Won't happen until I get a house and I can store it in a garage/carport) (Done, have top, haven't installed)
-FULL smog pump delete
-Roof-rack for camping storage.

So far I've done just a few things to it: Replaced some vacuum lines, installed Rancho shocks, installed 5/8" hitch pins in spare tire carrier, Changed rear/front axle oil, changed engine oil, fixed rear tailgate latch release, greased front end and rear slip joint, and checked all sorts of odds and ends.

So far I've got enough on my plate which is KOEO codes 122 and 452, but I've reset the battery and will be testing the VSS sensor resistance in the near future if I pop another 452.

I also installed a front diff drain plug:

I would also suggest making a jig that allows you to have 11/16" of cutting depth to prevent kissing the ring gear with your drill

Remember to wear safety glasses and use an anti-cursing compound to keep your patience.

Whenever I get to swapping out the spider gears in the rear diff I will post more pictures. In the meantime, I'll leave this link to my reference on how I will go about swapping them out.

I also installed a B&M diff cover to aid in changing the diff oil and keeping the gears nice and cool.

House of Windsor 4ever!
10,496 Posts
That B&M cover also gives you the ability to preload the diff bearing caps to prevent cap deflection under heavy load. and though the rig's repainted, the paint does look good.

376 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
WOW I LOVE that color! Nice truck!!
Blue's my favorite color. It was "Forest green" and if it still was then I would be planning a woodland camo paint job at some point.

Looking good keep us posted on your progress...
Will do. I think I will end up doing what few have ended up doing to this thing. After the rear axle is freshened up, I will see about possibly moving the side mirrors more forward.

That B&M cover also gives you the ability to preload the diff bearing caps to prevent cap deflection under heavy load. and though the rig's repainted, the paint does look good.
Aye it does, and a magnetic drain plug!

Keep it up :thumbup
I plan on it... it is a Ford, but I'm not one to keep vehicles stock.

From a magnetic gun, erm, "mount."

To LOTS and LOTS of Go-Fast goodies.

Anti-cursing compound LOL
Well, at least I'm not smoking anymore, right?

Looks great. Congrats

376 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Rebuilt the trac-lok and replaced the axles yesterday. It all went pretty smoothly except for the rounded off cross pin retaining bolt which took me 3hrs to finally remove. It took another extra hour to file and polish down a C-clip for proper axle end play, but its all finally done.

I'm surprised how easily the s-spring was to install. I was able to get it started by hand.

I'll have some pictures and info later.

Bronco Snob
2,002 Posts
:popc1:...lots of pics..is it later yet?

Super Moderator
24,234 Posts
yo M,
See my DTC 452 testing @

know that Ford changed VSS during 92-96 time span per the 96 Bronco PCED and 96 BRONCO Service Manual
based on DTC P0500 From 96 BRONCO Service Manual
Section 06-09B: Brake, Anti-Lock, 4-Wheel
Disconnect vehicle speed sensor connector.
Measure resistance between the two pins on the vehicle speed sensor.
Is reading between 800 and 1400 ohms?
Vehicle speed sensor checks OK. GO to «K3».

& CONTRADICTED by 1996 Ford Bronco PCED, Section 5A:
Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P0500 indicates vehicle speed sensor malfunction
Key off.
VSS disconnected.
Measure the resistance of the VSS.
Is resistance between 170 and 270 ohms?

Some here use info by Steve83, but when I asked him about it, he said he got this from an older Bronco's PCED:
that is 800-1400 Ohms across the pins, and more than 10 Ohms from the metal shell to either pin..."
He said the 96 PCED is more accurate for later year Bronco
So, get a Motorcraft VSS at dealer ship and ask manager to let your test it for ohms.

Throttle Position Sensor Testing, Replacement and Adjustment by Seattle FSB @ http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=203080

DTC 121, 122, 123, 124, 125 & DTC P0122, P0123 & P1121 in TSB 94-26-4 "...The following is a list of vehicle symptoms which have been associated with the TPS, but can also be related to other vehicle components. Check engine light, Stalls, quits, hesitation/stumble, fast idle; To minimize the replacement of good components, be advised that the following non-EEC areas may be the issue: Excessive blow-by, PCV malfunction, Vacuum leaks, Fuel pressure, Throttle sticking or linkage binding.

btw, Upper Case is by Ford, not me...
Source: by Ford @ http://www.tccoa.com/articles/mn12-techinfo/tsb/tsb-94-26-4.pdf

376 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
good job! I need to go thru both of my axles and rebuild them completely. maybe in a couple of years i will get around to that.
Thanks! It wasn't too bad of a job really... mostly it was that damn cross pin bolt! Simple job though.

:popc1:...lots of pics..is it later yet?

This is everything you should be buying:
Clutch kit (Whatever flavor you want, I wanted the extra bite of the carbon fiber) ($103, Summit racing)
Cross pin and bolt (Your axle shafts may have worn into it causing you to have excessive end play) ($20?)
Spider gears ($125)
Axle bearings and seals ($20 or so)
About 4 bottles of friction modifier
C-clips (these copper ones were too thick to be readily used, so I used my old ones)

You can see how much the driver's pack was worn here.

Passenger side.

Factory Orientation

New pack's orientation (Shim faces diff case!)

Ground down C-clip for proper axle clearance.

"Instructions" included with new clutch pack kit on how to remove the S-spring.

Kit used to rebuild Trac-lok From summit (A cool $103)

Everything else was ordered from Bronco Graveyard: Axle kit ([Yukon brand] which included timken bearings and seals), New copper C-clips (Too thick, not used), new cross pin, and new Trac-lok gears (Much tougher-looking than factory). To any of those wondering, I did soak the clutches in friction modifier. I also assembled everything with an oil film so that there would be no dry surfaces on S/U.

A few tips for those that may do all of this (Trans in N):

When removing the S-spring you can do it quickly with two people.
-After pulling your C-clips, remove the driver's side axle.
-Pull the passenger's side axle into the side gear so it is out of the way.
-Drive the S-spring into the diff case so that about half of it is sticking out of the back.
-Rotate the carrier in the direction of reverse.
-Pull on the S-spring so that the ring-gear side is past the ring gear. You will notice that the opposite side of the spring will catch it's side gear.
-Have your assistant push in the passenger's side axle and it should slide out with minimal effort.

Installing the S-spring (Trans in P):
-Imagine this "S" is the shape of the spring when viewing it from the side. You want the rounded edge of the spring to face along the ring gear and the side gear on that side.
-Using a screwdriver, or like tool (I used my fingers), compress the opposite side's "tang" while pushing slightly inward on the spring.
-When the tang is compressed it will make it easier to slip in the S-spring part of the way.
-Once the S-spring's own tension is holding it in place, drive it inwards fully and until you can insert the passenger's side axle.

Installing Pinion Gears (Trans in P):
-Now that you have your S-spring in and he is decently centered, you will want to install your pinion gears. Rotate the S-spring in the carrier by turning your axle until the "sides" of the "S" face the openings in the case. (It makes it easier to turn the axle if you use the wooden handle of a hammer for leverage and you lower your risk of messing up your wheel studs)
-Shift the Trans to N
-Rotate the entire carrier so that the open faces of the carrier face up and down and the closed face in which the cross pin retaining bolt is inserted is facing you.
-Shift trans to P
-place one pinion gear in mesh to the side gears in the top open face of the carrier (If the gear will not mesh, slowly turn the axle until the gear meshes) Note it's relative position to the closed ends of the carrier.
-based on the position of the upper pinion gear, place the lower pinion gear in mesh to the side gears so that it is 180* away from the upper gear.
-Rotate your axle in the forward direction while your assistant holds the lower gear in mesh with the side gears until the "lower" gear is aligned with the cross pin shaft holes. (The upper gear should take care of itself... because of gravity).
It should like like this now:

-Verify Proper positioning of the pinion gears by inserting the cross pin shaft into the diff case. Some jarring of the axle may be required to allow the cross pin to fit.
-If the cross pin fits, insert the retaining bolt but do NOT tighten.
-Shift trans to N
-Rotate the axle in the reverse direction so the open face of the diff case faces you AND you can remove the cross pin from the case.
-Install your axles and verify proper end-play.

Hopefully hat above stuff makes someone's life A LOT easier. I have some other pictures that I had taken on my "real" camera but I left that SD card back at home. I will not be able to retrieve that stuff until a couple of weeks from now (During Muzzleloader season in NC! :thumbup)

Thanks Miesk5.

Whenever the code pops up again (If it does) I will follow that procedure. As of a couple of weekends ago I cleared all codes and I am waiting for the truck to give me another CEL, if it ever does.

During such time the trans is doing some funky stuff... really way too much to list, and I will wait until I get a code. I have still yet to clean the VSS sensor to at least write that off of possible issues. However, when I do clean him I will also take some Ohm readings and note them for the future.

The TPS was changed by the PO and I do not know if he ever reset the computer to clear any codes afterwards. Again, if I get another 122 CEL I will start checking all of that. At least I have your post in my thread for a reference.

376 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Well, I got the 122 code again but no 452. So I decided to do some testing.

What I found was with the throttle shut I had .8v at the TPS, with 4.98v as reference voltage. Fully open I had about 4.7v or something. I then tested the resistance through the range of motion and found that the resistance peaked at about 3/4-7/8 throttle.... Then went back down. That shouldn't occur.

I purchased a duralast TPS because I'll just swap it for a good one whenever this one fails. I'm not too concerned that its not motorcraft. While at advance auto for an unrelated issue (purchasing a radiator cap for my Chevy) I decided to take a look under the dizzy cap... Since I have no idea when this truck was tuned up last.

$130 later I ended up replacing from the rotor button to the plugs. Plugs all had, on average, .062" gaps, the cap contacts were very worn, and the rotor tip was all sorts of jacked up.

Before replacing the TPS there was A LOT of carbon buildup at the EGR port in the intake, so I had to chip all of that out. Throttle body had definitely seen better says too.

With everything buttoned up I had .95v with the throttle shut, resistance steadily increased, and all plugs were gapped to .054." Runs and shifts MUCH much better and has a lot more power. Albeit it is still in "default" settings I'm sure due to having the battery unhooked and the headlights on to drain any charge in the electrics. I'm sure I'll see a definite improvement in MPG, since I'm currently at 14.2, before the tune up. Idles at a lower RPM as well.

Enough talk, pics:

This tube is what I used to replace the spongy and non-sealing PCV hose I had. It's some other vehicles PCV hose as advance did not carry the correct one. I had to trim this one down on both ends I think to prevent binding and get the right length. Fits like a glove.


376 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Its been a little bit, but I've done just a couple of things:


The radio is mounted to the passenger side of the center console. Its just an old Cobra 25 my dad gave me. Nothing special at about 4watts of power. Reaches out a couple of miles and that's all I really need it to do anyways. SWR is fine, people hear me clearly, I'm completely content.

And, I bought a set of wheels/tires:

Driver's side rub (My bumper is F'd up, knew about it. Going to straighten and space to get it out of the way.

Passenger side rub:

I'll just put some washers behind the bumper and it'll be fine. Besides, it'll give me a wider edge to step on when I work under the hood.

Wheels are Procomp 51 15x10's with 3.75" backspacing.
Tires are 33x12.5R15's. They DO NOT rub the radius arms, but they will hit the inside of the wheel well just inside of the fender if the suspension is flexed up (body moves down). I have a big hammer, It'll sort that out. There is no suspension or body lift on the truck.

The only other news is the mileage has dropped by 1.3mi. Other than that the truck is running well and doing as it should.

I am currently thinking of clocking the T-case, but not sure about lengthening the front driveshaft.

Bronco Snob
2,002 Posts

Lol...that's OK. Looks like you got a lot accomplished. Nice, timely write-up for me as I have my eye open at pick n pulls for a 4.10 track-lok, and being around 20+ yrs old, should probably be rebuilt. Lookin good, man :thumbup

376 Posts
Discussion Starter #17

Lol...that's OK. Looks like you got a lot accomplished. Nice, timely write-up for me as I have my eye open at pick n pulls for a 4.10 track-lok, and being around 20+ yrs old, should probably be rebuilt. Lookin good, man :thumbup
Well, with a 4.10 unit you won't be able to slide the S-spring out of the center with the ring gear installed. Simply not going to happen. You'll have to take the carrier out, undo the ring gear, then sorta use my procedure to put it together, then have to bolt it all back up and recheck your backlash and stuff. Not a bad job, but it's more work really.


Got the 33's on and the bumper spaced out:

Because my bumper is bent in on the drivers side, and I'm impatient, I went ahead and trimmed just a smidge off of the valance on either side and the driver's side bumper for clearance:

Now, lots of people have wondered how do you space the bumper... It's pretty F-ing simple. Go and buy:
4-1/2x3" bolts
4-1/2" washers (Or 7/16's will work)
4-1/2" Nyloc nuts
12-5/8" nuts

For tools you'll need:
21mm deepwell sockets
9/16" deepwell sockets
3/4" shallow socket
3/4" wrench
Appropriate rachets
Large flat blade screwdriver
As well as some PB blaster and muscle... a fat gut also helps but I used my legs to reposition the bumper.

So, remove your bumper (You can see my bumper bracket is also bent, not for long):

Remove the clips retaining the "U-bolt" thing that ford drew up on a napkin and get it out. SAVE THE CLIPS!!!:

Install your longer bolts in the holes with a washer. Slip on 3 5/8" nuts on each bolt and use that 9/16" socket to push those old clips onto the bolts. That'll keep everything retained and make this a one-man job:

Put your bumper back on methodically. That means; make sure its centered and not all funky-looking. This is how much space you'll gain:

See the difference?

There will be some rubbing on occasion against the fender lining and the tire depending on the aggressiveness of your tread. The liner will give and there is enough space behind to leave them be. Don't be alarmed. Also, I have 3.55 gears and have not calibrated my PSOM to run 33's. My tranny shifts FINE and soft with light throttle. With medium throttle, same thing. WOT, still doesn't care. I do need to still cycle the OD in order to get up hills, but that's nothing new that I'm worried about. I'll be playing in the dirt later this week with them. It'll be a blast!

376 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
MTX tires performed well. Ended up pulling up stumps and hauling deer remains to our disposal area. Not a lot of mud everywhere since the LSD rebuild seems to have done its job particularly well.

I also have a new CB installed. Apparently that old CB was set up for a linear (4w dead key and about 14 of modulation), so now I have a 29LTD that's 10w on dead key and 35w of swing. New wilson 1000 fiberglass antenna with NO 90 degree mount. We checked SWR with the 90 degree mount and it jumped all over the place when we bumped it. SWR is good at 1.2, so I'm happy with it still.

I'm thinking of putting some RED tinted lights inside the cab, or just RED LED's, to use while driving at night instead of the white cab light and for when I'm arriving somewhere to hunt. Some camping will eventually happen in the Bronco. As much as the GF hates this vehicle... she may just have to sleep in it once or twice to see how functional it is. Red nighttime lighting will be nice then too.


376 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Added a couple of new pictures to the trac-lok rebuild in an earlier post.
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