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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

My Bronco's been retrofitted with Warn Premium hubs, and for the last 8 years, they've always worked great. However, earlier this year, the driver's side hub stopped engaging. I could jack the front up, lock the hub, then turn tire, and the driveshaft wouldn't spin. (On the contrary, the passenger side works fine).

Since then, I've completely rebuilt the entire hub. New rotor, inner and outer wheel bearings, lock ring kit, caliper, brake pads, etc. etc. Properly lubricated and regreased everything. (I know the brakes are irrelevant, but just stating the extent of the work done).

The hub still won't engage.

If I take the cap off, I can manually press the mechanisms in, and it'll engage fine, and the whole system works. Everything seems to really work great. The problem seems to be that when I lock it, the cap just doesn't push everything in far enough to engage the hub. I contacted Warn and they thought it was the spring, so they sent me a new one, but the new one is actually shorter than the one that's currently in there. It seems like it just needs to push the hub in another 1/2" or so to make it engage.

I have no idea what to do. It's snowing and slick out, and I really need to get this working.

Any ideas?
 

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yo A,

A WAG for now;
Have you tried prying on U-Joint to gain clearance?

"one other trick for ya...the warn dials are sometimes found to be difficult to turn. Once one is cleaned of any grease and junk, put a light coat of antiseize lube on the little detents on the inside of the cap that the wave spring moves up and down on. The freer this motion is, the easier the dial will be to turn. And the antiseize as you know does not wash out easily and stays very fluid under extreme temps; I spread a very light coating of grease (what wouldn't wipe off with my finger) around the edge to make sure the o-ring was lubed.
Source: by Iolaus (Jeff J)


D44IFS Bills of Material & Parts Break-Out Diagram
http://web.archive.org/web/20110908005941/http://www2.dana.com/pdf/X510-9.PDF
 

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Super Moderator
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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the response. The hub itself turns with ease, and has a nice, reassuring beginning and end to the turns.

What does prying on the U-Joint do?
 

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He doesn't need to get the small ring off or on, he's covered that.

Abandoned - it's recommended to pretty the u joint towards the hub to be able to install the last small ring. Seems like something has loosen up our worn out and is just not allowing the hub itself to engage the internals.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
When I rebuilt it, everything moved fine, I was able to install all the snap rings, etc. without any issue, or needing to move the joints.
Nothing seems like it's worn out. Turning the dial on the hub just doesn't push the internals in far enough for the teeth to engage, but even there, everything looks to be in tip top shape.

I know that doesn't help, but that's why I'm lost on what to do.
 

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Roller rockers are gay
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Tell warn to eat a set of hubs.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yup, I'll be contacting Warn next.

I just wanted to be sure something wasn't mechanically wrong with my front end first.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The hub lock has a light layer. Just enough to help lubricate it but not gum up the works.
And yes, the cup moves in and out when the cap is turned.

When I turn it to lock, I can hear the teeth "click" when I rotate the tire as the engagement teeth rub against each other.

It's been a while since I had them off (a few months), but I remember watching as I put them together, but didn't see anything odd.

What pics would help?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The main reason I ask is because I don't know what the problem is.
When I remove the cap, it looks like a hub. The cap looks like a cap.
I have two Broncos and have rebuilt the hubs on both, and nothing looks any different than on any of the four manual locking hubs I have. :shrug

I don't know what the problem is, I don't know what may be causing the problem, so I don't know what to take pictures of. The hub with the cap off?
 

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And the inside of the cap in both locked and free positions.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I contacted Warn, and unfortunately, they said they'll only replace them under warranty if I have the original receipt, which I don't, since they came on the Bronco when I got it.

I'll try pulling the hub open this week and see what I can see, and get some pictures.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Okay, an update on this.
I had my Bronco down at a shop this weekend and had a discussion about this issue with the tech I was working with.
He said that his honest opinion is that the previous owner found Warn hubs that "fit", but aren't the correct hubs for my Bronco. They'll barely engage on either side under the right conditions, but will quickly disconnect since the hub just doesn't push the locking mechanism in far enough.

Honestly, I don't know if I've ever really checked well enough to be able say with confidence that my hubs used to work. I probably just jacked it up, turned the hubs, and spun the tire and got lucky that it caught the tips of the engagement teeth, so figured all was good. I know there's been plenty of times when I felt my Bronco could do better off-road but always just chalked that up to open diffs.

What are the chances of this? Are there other models that would fit onto the hub but wouldn't actually engage? As said, these were on there when I got the Bronco 10 years ago and I never really looked into it. It's a daily driver, and I go camping with it on some pretty serious dirt roads, but it's not like I go mudding with my buddies and my front tires not spinning would be immediately noticeable.
 

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Charlie don't surf..
'92 Ford Bronco XLT
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the hubs will either go over the end of the axle shaft or they won't...pretty sure all of the dana 44s were 19 spline..

whatever the case, hubs are cheap enough, there could be something messed up in the body of one that isn't allow it to positively engage the shaft.

get yourself a new pair and call it a day.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yeah, I'm going to order up a new pair here shortly. I just wanted to check the validity of how likely this scenario might be.

Everything on these hubs work. Twisting to LOCK just doesn't press everything in far enough to properly engage. So the idea was that they're for a different model truck (but still with a Dana 44) that didn't need to push in as far for full engagement. Dunno.

If that's the case, I can't believe I've never had working hubs on my Bronco... :brownbag
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Looks like there's only two Warn models for a 19 spline.

The 20990 (the correct ones) and the 9072, which look considerably different.

*sigh* Wish it was a little more cut and dry. Don't feel like dropping $100 and having the same problem.
 

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Charlie don't surf..
'92 Ford Bronco XLT
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like I said, if they're not working, chances are something could have gotten buggered up..one of my milemarker hubs got messed up and kept it fully engaged the entire time even when the hub was set to free, so it's distinctly possible you could be experiencing the exact opposite where the hub isn't engaging at all..hubs aren't really all that complex..

tear it down and take some pics..
 

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I recently had my locking gear in backwards making it unable to push in far enough to engage - the inner teeth have to be on the axle side instead of the outside. You probably know better, but I sure didn't. I am still kind of surprised it fits in there flipped both ways.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I recently had my locking gear in backwards making it unable to push in far enough to engage - the inner teeth have to be on the axle side instead of the outside. You probably know better, but I sure didn't. I am still kind of surprised it fits in there flipped both ways.
I read about this issue on another website and am going to be checking this out this weekend. If so, I didn't know it would go in both ways either. :toothless
It sure would make sense though, and I'm kinda hoping that's what it is.
 
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