it’s a threaded fastener, which goes down into the metal tube below it. I saw a guy on YouTube remove it with bird nose vice grips. I can’t get enough of a bite.At the risk of sounding dumb, the top almost looks like a pop rivet head. Is it a through fastener with a nut on bottom or is it blind into the plastic?
It is designed that way, seems fairly ridiculous to design it that way. And why not both. Why just one?Did some previous owner fill the top of the screw with epoxy or some other filler? Just a thought from the looks of the top of it. Or as stated above use a Dremel and cut a slot and use a flathead screw driver to remove it. Good luck!
I took one out with vice grips and the twisting force cracked the epoxy looking filler, revealing what's underneath. It's the identical T20 Security bolt as the other one. It's possible that Ford did a mix of filled and solid on the one non-visible T20 head, but it seems unlikely they would have changed their method on something like that.That head is not filled with anything. It’s a solid head.
Well, guess I’m wrong then. I actually tried to clean out the center part of that fastener to no avail of course. Ive seen a fair amount of goofy engineering while doing repairs on my vehicles over the last 20 years, but this is one of the strangest. Thanks for your diligence.I took one out with vice grips and the twisting force cracked the epoxy looking filler, revealing what's underneath. It's the identical T20 Security bolt as the other one. It's possible that Ford did a mix of filled and solid on the one non-visible T20 head, but it seems unlikely they would have changed their method on something like that.
I'm baffled as to why they filled one in the first place. A) Why not just use more readily available phillips head bolts then, and B) who cares if someone removes their MAF? And I guess a sub-thought to 'B' would be, if you really don't want people removing it, there are off-the-shelf solutions like the 5-point Torx Plus bolts that I think Honda uses. I was stumped for a while when I ran across that on a project.
That might be the most bizarre thing I've ever heard of. Why wouldn't they just make a consistent sensor and not have to modify each housing to match it? What exactly were they calibrating, the shape or volume of the tube?The fastener is filled with epoxy as an attempt to prevent replacement of just the sensor. Apparently the housings were calibrated to the sensor during assembly.
I think it's a metaphorical comparison. Much effort on bolts few people will likely ever fool with when that effort would have been more well-placed on said intake bolts.I don't think a half inch long T20 would suffice for a lower intake manifold corner bolt, stainless or not. Unless you're referring to the studs in the air cleaner housing lid? In that case, you're confusing the housing lid with the MAF sensor housing, which is the aluminum housing that the module itself is secured to.