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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Motor vehicle Gas Font Nut Metal


Each fastener is different. Bottom right I can remove with 20 Security Torx. Top left doesn’t have anything designed for using tool to remove. I’ve tried bird-nose vice grips to no avail.

why is this designed like this and any ideas on how to remove it?
 

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At the risk of sounding dumb, the top almost looks like a pop rivet head. Is it a through fastener with a nut on bottom or is it blind into the plastic?

Dremel?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
At the risk of sounding dumb, the top almost looks like a pop rivet head. Is it a through fastener with a nut on bottom or is it blind into the plastic?

Dremel?
it’s a threaded fastener, which goes down into the metal tube below it. I saw a guy on YouTube remove it with bird nose vice grips. I can’t get enough of a bite.
 

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95 5.8L MAF XLT, Hedman Shorties/MF SS Y & Muff, E4OD, Man hubs, KYB Quads, 31x10.5x15, 311K miles
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Did some previous owner fill the top of the screw with epoxy or some other filler? Just a thought from the looks of the top of it. Or as stated above use a Dremel and cut a slot and use a flathead screw driver to remove it. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Did some previous owner fill the top of the screw with epoxy or some other filler? Just a thought from the looks of the top of it. Or as stated above use a Dremel and cut a slot and use a flathead screw driver to remove it. Good luck!
It is designed that way, seems fairly ridiculous to design it that way. And why not both. Why just one?

Regardless, I was able to get it loose by using diagonal cutting pliers (*****) that had a good sharp edge on the blades to get a bite.
 
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'92 Custom w/ '95 MAF 5.0 M/T, 33's, 4.10 LSD
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It doesn't come from the factory like that top one. I agree, it looks like it might have been filled. Perhaps the PO stripped it out, filled it to try again once hardened, then abandoned the project. It appears identical to the security torx bolt, just without the bit indentation.
 

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1995 5.8, 2.5" Rough Country Lift, Extended RA's, 4.10's, 33" BFG's
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Mine is filled with something too and its the original so I guess they did fill it at the factory. I guess you could soften that stuff up with one of those little torches then dig the stuff out
 

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Mine is filled with something too and its the original so I guess they did fill it at the factory.
Huh, I stand corrected. I looked at my spare and it's like that, too.
 

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That head is not filled with anything. It’s a solid head.
I took one out with vice grips and the twisting force cracked the epoxy looking filler, revealing what's underneath. It's the identical T20 Security bolt as the other one. It's possible that Ford did a mix of filled and solid on the one non-visible T20 head, but it seems unlikely they would have changed their method on something like that.

I'm baffled as to why they filled one in the first place. A) Why not just use more readily available phillips head bolts then, and B) who cares if someone removes their MAF? And I guess a sub-thought to 'B' would be, if you really don't want people removing it, there are off-the-shelf solutions like the 5-point Torx Plus bolts that I think Honda uses. I was stumped for a while when I ran across that on a project.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I took one out with vice grips and the twisting force cracked the epoxy looking filler, revealing what's underneath. It's the identical T20 Security bolt as the other one. It's possible that Ford did a mix of filled and solid on the one non-visible T20 head, but it seems unlikely they would have changed their method on something like that.

I'm baffled as to why they filled one in the first place. A) Why not just use more readily available phillips head bolts then, and B) who cares if someone removes their MAF? And I guess a sub-thought to 'B' would be, if you really don't want people removing it, there are off-the-shelf solutions like the 5-point Torx Plus bolts that I think Honda uses. I was stumped for a while when I ran across that on a project.
Well, guess I’m wrong then. I actually tried to clean out the center part of that fastener to no avail of course. Ive seen a fair amount of goofy engineering while doing repairs on my vehicles over the last 20 years, but this is one of the strangest. Thanks for your diligence.
 

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OOO! Am I allowed to say the always hated Phrase???
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"I told ya so" in my post #4 earlier on....;)

The finish on the top of the filled screw is different than the rest of the screw head leading to assuming it is filled. Either way it is all fun reading everyone's opinions that's what this forum is all about, a place to help, learn and guide.....
 

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The fastener is filled with epoxy as an attempt to prevent replacement of just the sensor. Apparently the housings were calibrated to the sensor during assembly.
That might be the most bizarre thing I've ever heard of. Why wouldn't they just make a consistent sensor and not have to modify each housing to match it? What exactly were they calibrating, the shape or volume of the tube?

Why did they bother to use non-rusting SS bolts if they wanted the sensor to never be removed? They'd of been a lot more useful elsewhere, like say, the SBF lower manifold corner bolts.
 

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I don't think a half inch long T20 would suffice for a lower intake manifold corner bolt, stainless or not. Unless you're referring to the studs in the air cleaner housing lid? In that case, you're confusing the housing lid with the MAF sensor housing, which is the aluminum housing that the module itself is secured to.


Font Rectangle Parallel Art Number
 

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I don't think a half inch long T20 would suffice for a lower intake manifold corner bolt, stainless or not. Unless you're referring to the studs in the air cleaner housing lid? In that case, you're confusing the housing lid with the MAF sensor housing, which is the aluminum housing that the module itself is secured to.
I think it's a metaphorical comparison. Much effort on bolts few people will likely ever fool with when that effort would have been more well-placed on said intake bolts.

I'm not a MAF guy but appreciate the insight on how the two go together.
 

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I didn't see it posted above, but that screw is called a Tamperproof Security Torx and you can buy a set of bits to remove these screws. My 94' Bronco fiberglass hardtop has those to hold it to the body of truck. Not used too often but if you buy a set of the bits, they always come in handy someday, or if a friend needs to borrow.
Bottle Liquid Bottle cap Font Glass bottle
 

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I didn't see it posted above, but that screw is called a Tamperproof Security Torx and you can buy a set of bits to remove these screws.
It was discussed above. Also, that only helps with the non-filled one. ;)
 

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96 EB 351 250k miles / orig owner, E4OD reblt, Skyjacker 4", 33x12.5x15", Flowmaster, Warn hubs, etc
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I took a dremel with a thin cutting wheel and made it a straight slot. Done. Security torque… why? Been on there for many years.
 
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