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1989 Bronco XLT 351W with C6, manual locking hubs. 6” suspension lift with 35” Cooper tires
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Discussion Starter #121
The rear window is about 2” from being fully open. It’s only sticking out of the tailgate 2” or so. Doesn’t that make accessing the stuff inside a pain?


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Open the tailgate panel from the inside of the truck. You should be able to unbolt the glass from the regulator arms and let it down and open the tailgate. Honestly you might be able to push it down the rest of the way.
 

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1982 FSB 302, c6, NP208 manual, manual hubs, manual windows, 3.00 gears LSD rear, 235/75/15 HK ATM
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The rear window is about 2” from being fully open. It’s only sticking out of the tailgate 2” or so. Doesn’t that make accessing the stuff inside a pain?


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Can you put a little pressure on the center of the window to make it go down the rest of the way? Mine gets caught about halfway down and then at the bottom 2 inches or so. I just use the key switch in the tailgate and help it up and down.
 

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1989 Bronco XLT 351W with C6, manual locking hubs. 6” suspension lift with 35” Cooper tires
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Discussion Starter #124
So I ended up fixing the window finally. On a whim I decided to unplug and bypass the window safety switch. When i did this it worked perfectly so I decided to tape the jumper in there good and call it quits. It has worked great since then so hopefully that’s all!!

Dropped her off at 4 wheel parts this morning to hopefully get a proper alignment done that will maybe fix my “not returning to zero” when I turn and maybe the pulling to one side or the other when I hit a bump. The tires are noticeably towed out at the top but bushings and all have been done. We shall see.

They are also giving me a quote on new gears. They had two broncos there so that gives me hope lol.



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1989 Bronco XLT 351W with C6, manual locking hubs. 6” suspension lift with 35” Cooper tires
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Discussion Starter #125

One of them that was there

Edit: you can barely make out the bull nose in the background inside the shop. It was awesome.

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One of them that was there

Edit: you can barely make out the bull nose in the background inside the shop. It was awesome.

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Guessing thats the one in Memphis? Been meaning to make the drive for parts. Gotta get the steering/suspension solid before I do though


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One of them that was there

Edit: you can barely make out the bull nose in the background inside the shop. It was awesome.

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Dang I wish I had one of those around here. I've been asking around for recommendations from friends on who I might be able to trust with my alignment (I think it will take some experience) and so far coming up short.
 

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1989 Bronco XLT 351W with C6, manual locking hubs. 6” suspension lift with 35” Cooper tires
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836 Posts
Discussion Starter #128
Guessing thats the one in Memphis? Been meaning to make the drive for parts. Gotta get the steering/suspension solid before I do though


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Correct. This is the one in Memphis. I’m planning on trying to do a meet somewhere for the tristate area. Maybe their parking lot lol


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92 Bronco, 408 Stroker, 6R80, 4" lift, 9 inch, ARB lockers, 4.56 gears, Bassani exhaust
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What gears are you planning on running?

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1989 Bronco XLT 351W with C6, manual locking hubs. 6” suspension lift with 35” Cooper tires
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Discussion Starter #130
What gears are you planning on running?

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I’m honestly unsure. Probably 3.73 or 4.10. They will have a quote ready for me tomorrow when i pick it up!


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92 Bronco, 408 Stroker, 6R80, 4" lift, 9 inch, ARB lockers, 4.56 gears, Bassani exhaust
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I got 4.56 for mine. I plan on running 35s but I will be running a 6R80. I believe it will give me a lower 1st gear and a higher OD. From my research 4.56 with 35s is close to 3.50 with 31s. If I had a C6 I would probably do the gears your looking at. Especially if you drive the highway a lot. Not that you asked just rambling.
 

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1989 Bronco XLT 351W with C6, manual locking hubs. 6” suspension lift with 35” Cooper tires
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Discussion Starter #132
I agree 100%. Had a little bit of a depressing day today. Went to pick it up from 4 wheel parts and they told me they were not able to get a proper alignment completed. It became apparent to me when the guys started telling me that my tire rods looked new and had been replaced obviously but not greased so they were on their way out that they may not know what they were talking about. The tie rods are not new but I did put them in a parts cleaner and clean them and they are non-greaseable so I’m not really sure what the young man was talking about. He also said my drag link was worn out and need to be replaced. I’m taking it to someone early next week that several people have now told me about that does really good with bronco alignments with oversized tires but is a little bit expensive. We will see what he says about everything and then go from there. I also received a quote from 4 wheel parts on gears and installation. I was a little shocked at the $2600 quote. I have since called a few places and received a quote of around 1500 which seemed about right. I think I’m going to try some 4.10 gears and go from there. Another issue that has never went away that I need to resolve is how long this thing takes to crank once it is warm. First thing in the morning it cranks in about a half second. After I have driven it any length of time and parked it, it takes forever to crank. I’m talking five or six seconds and while it cranks I’m watching my battery drop a little. It’s starting to scare me to where I don’t know if it will leave me stranded or not. I’m wondering if it’s a bad coil pack, starter, battery, etc. I honest to God don’t know where to start on this thing but I’m really wanting to get that issue fixed ASAP. After all that is taken care of I will start working on the steering gearbox and shaft. Does anyone have any thoughts on chasing down the long start Grimmlin? It looks like most of the forums online talk about replacing the starter with one of those high power units. How hard of a job is that? Anyone have experience chasing the long start on one of these things?


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One of them that was there

Edit: you can barely make out the bull nose in the background inside the shop. It was awesome.

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Amazing how much bigger it looks/is than the “SUV” next to it..
I agree 100%. Had a little bit of a depressing day today. Went to pick it up from 4 wheel parts and they told me they were not able to get a proper alignment completed. It became apparent to me when the guys started telling me that my tire rods looked new and had been replaced obviously but not greased so they were on their way out that they may not know what they were talking about. The tie rods are not new but I did put them in a parts cleaner and clean them and they are non-greaseable so I’m not really sure what the young man was talking about. He also said my drag link was worn out and need to be replaced. I’m taking it to someone early next week that several people have now told me about that does really good with bronco alignments with oversized tires but is a little bit expensive. We will see what he says about everything and then go from there. I also received a quote from 4 wheel parts on gears and installation. I was a little shocked at the $2600 quote. I have since called a few places and received a quote of around 1500 which seemed about right. I think I’m going to try some 4.10 gears and go from there. Another issue that has never went away that I need to resolve is how long this thing takes to crank once it is warm. First thing in the morning it cranks in about a half second. After I have driven it any length of time and parked it, it takes forever to crank. I’m talking five or six seconds and while it cranks I’m watching my battery drop a little. It’s starting to scare me to where I don’t know if it will leave me stranded or not. I’m wondering if it’s a bad coil pack, starter, battery, etc. I honest to God don’t know where to start on this thing but I’m really wanting to get that issue fixed ASAP. After all that is taken care of I will start working on the steering gearbox and shaft. Does anyone have any thoughts on chasing down the long start Grimmlin? It looks like most of the forums online talk about replacing the starter with one of those high power units. How hard of a job is that? Anyone have experience chasing the long start on one of these things?


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any chance it’s vapor lock since it’s so hot?
 

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92 Bronco, 408 Stroker, 6R80, 4" lift, 9 inch, ARB lockers, 4.56 gears, Bassani exhaust
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582 Posts
I think it maybe the check valve on the pump. It should hold pressure. Turn the key on and listen. Once the pump turns off try to start. If it starts after delay the check valve is likely the culprit.
 

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ate lug
88 + 96 broncos, 96 F250
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I think I’m going to try some 4.10 gears and go from there.
Got any junkyards near you? Because 4.10 is a factory option. You can save yourself some $$$ by grabbing a 3rd out of the front of a junkyard truck and swapping it yourself. It seems a lot of shops charge so much because they dont want to deal with the TTB front end, so even if you only find the front third, you can save yourself a ton of money that way. On the plus side, most of these trucks are low mileage on the front, so the gear sets are usually in great shape.

Another option is a D50 TTB 3rd from the front of a F250. That will probably be easier to come by as 4.10 was the more common ratio in those trucks. But, youll also need the 2 center axle shafts out of the same truck since the F250 uses a bigger center ujoint. As a bonus, bigger parts!
 

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1989 Bronco XLT 351W with C6, manual locking hubs. 6” suspension lift with 35” Cooper tires
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Discussion Starter #136
Got any junkyards near you? Because 4.10 is a factory option. You can save yourself some $$$ by grabbing a 3rd out of the front of a junkyard truck and swapping it yourself. It seems a lot of shops charge so much because they dont want to deal with the TTB front end, so even if you only find the front third, you can save yourself a ton of money that way. On the plus side, most of these trucks are low mileage on the front, so the gear sets are usually in great shape.

Another option is a D50 TTB 3rd from the front of a F250. That will probably be easier to come by as 4.10 was the more common ratio in those trucks. But, youll also need the 2 center axle shafts out of the same truck since the F250 uses a bigger center ujoint. As a bonus, bigger parts!
That’s a great idea man. But I have a dumb question for you. What exactly is a “third”? @reptillikus


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92 Bronco, 408 Stroker, 6R80, 4" lift, 9 inch, ARB lockers, 4.56 gears, Bassani exhaust
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3rd member or pumpkin. The D50 is interchangeable with the D44 and it has a heavier output shaft.
 

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ate lug
88 + 96 broncos, 96 F250
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That’s a great idea man. But I have a dumb question for you. What exactly is a “third”? @reptillikus


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This whole section:


Theres still a ton of these available in the junkyards. 4.10 was one of the gear ratios available from the factory, but in the broncos/F150s its the optional ratio, and 3.08 & 3.55 are more common. If you go the the F250s for the D50 TTB, the third member will bolt right into your beam, and those are commonly found with 4.10s. The catch with the D50 third member, is you are required to use the larger center ujoint and cooresponding 2 stub shafts. So basically, its an upgrade! And itll cost you less than getting yours regeared.

If you look closely, youll note i drilled & tapped a hole in the bottom of that one prior to installation, so i can change the gear oil w/o dropping it.
 

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1989 Bronco XLT 351W with C6, manual locking hubs. 6” suspension lift with 35” Cooper tires
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Discussion Starter #139
So before I spend money on the “fun” stuff like gears and what not, I need to address some issues that keep popping up. First was the rear window which was a faulty safety switch. By bypassing that, it seems to be take care of.

I picked my son up from school yesterday and when we got home, the drivers side window wouldn’t roll up. Again. This happens often and I need to buy a replacement motor and be done with it. The doorman model I bought from autozone worked great but the bolt pattern wouldn’t line up so I need a fomoco one. The weird thing is that it works off and on. It’s like the motor is sticking or something. It’s not a wiring thing. Just something in the motor.

The long crank after the first start up. I have no clue how to figure out what the problem is here. I need to find the starter and see if the heat shield is there or if It needs one. Is there a way to test the starter?? Should I just replace with a high torque model?? I would love to know tour thoughts on this. I assume it could be a fuel issue, starter, ignition system, etc. I am just really lost on all of this. Probably would not hurt to do a fuel pressure test also just to check things out.

Lastly (for now) is steering. I would like to replace my steering gearbox with a red head or blue top model and install a Bergeson shaft. I truly believe this will take care of 90% of my steering issues. This will probably happen after the top two issues are fixed. As of now I can drive it the way it is but if it leaves me stranded or the window won’t roll up when it’s raining, I have bigger issues. Any advice or ideas on this stuff would be greatly appreciated.


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So before I spend money on the “fun” stuff like gears and what not, I need to address some issues that keep popping up. First was the rear window which was a faulty safety switch. By bypassing that, it seems to be take care of.

I picked my son up from school yesterday and when we got home, the drivers side window wouldn’t roll up. Again. This happens often and I need to buy a replacement motor and be done with it. The doorman model I bought from autozone worked great but the bolt pattern wouldn’t line up so I need a fomoco one. The weird thing is that it works off and on. It’s like the motor is sticking or something. It’s not a wiring thing. Just something in the motor.

The long crank after the first start up. I have no clue how to figure out what the problem is here. I need to find the starter and see if the heat shield is there or if It needs one. Is there a way to test the starter?? Should I just replace with a high torque model?? I would love to know tour thoughts on this. I assume it could be a fuel issue, starter, ignition system, etc. I am just really lost on all of this. Probably would not hurt to do a fuel pressure test also just to check things out.

Lastly (for now) is steering. I would like to replace my steering gearbox with a red head or blue top model and install a Bergeson shaft. I truly believe this will take care of 90% of my steering issues. This will probably happen after the top two issues are fixed. As of now I can drive it the way it is but if it leaves me stranded or the window won’t roll up when it’s raining, I have bigger issues. Any advice or ideas on this stuff would be greatly appreciated.


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When you say the driver side window wont roll up how does it act? Any sound at all or is it just dead and won't budge?


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