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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, Here goes

I started with a 1982 Bronco, 351W, California Emissions with the EEC3 feedback carb system. After chasing problems with the EEC3 system, I :whiteflag and decided to convert to Fuel Injection.

The best system I found was the Megasquirt system. Back when I built in 2005, the MS system was only in version 1. It didn't have any options for ignition, so I had to convert to Duraspark 2.

I dropped the fuel tank, and added a fuel return line to the fuel gauge insert. Looking back, I could have swapped in a later model fuel tank that has the fuel injection ports already. I don't have any pictures of that process.

The fuel pump bracket was fabbed, and mounted here



I used this pump from summit racing.

Fuel lines were bent up and filter mounted here.



A GM Throttle Body was selected for simplicity of install. This has the Fuel Pressure Regulator, Injectors, Throttle Position Sensor and Idle Air Control in one assembly. This really simplified things for me. An adapter was purchased to go from the GM TBI bolt pattern to the Holley 2300 series carb bolt pattern on my manifold.



Next I built the Megasquirt controller. I don't have any pictures of the main board build up, and can't find any decent shots of an MS1 on the MSEFI website. You will just have to take my word for it. :thumbup

The components of the MS Controller are not rated for under hood temps, so I installed the MS1 Controller here.



There is an add on to the system called the Relay Board. This is an easy way to connect the engine sensors and controls to the MS Controller. It is designed to be mounted in the engine bay, So it is mounted here



I had to install an O2 sensor, and I mounted that after the Y pipe. The location meant I needed a Heated sensor. The heater circuit was wired to the Fuel pump circuit so it would only heat when the engine is running.

With all the parts installed, I needed to set the system up and get the thing to idle.

The MSEFI website is an awesome resource, and if you do a bit of reading and researching, almost every possibility is covered. I didn't have any issues I couldn't figure out myself by reading the forums. That said, Let me see if I can remember the process.

First you have to load some programs on the computer you will be using to tune the system.

These are usually Megatune, and a datalogging program such as megalog viewer and mstweak. These will be used to set up and tune the controller.

You need to perform a firmware update on the CPU. The process is simple and well documented, but isn't really important, since the MS2 system is different.

Next, you need to estimate your current horsepower and engine parameters and use those numbers to generate the required fuel that is then used to roughly estimate your engines Volumetric Efficiency. This is the table you will be using to tune the engine by modifying the VE tables using Megatune.

One of the best features of the system, is the Datalogging feature. This allows you to drive the car, and log what is happening. Then, stop the car and tune the system. then datalog and drive again. after a few times, you can get a really good tune. It took me about 4 hours of tuning.

I recently purchased a wideband O2 sensor from innovate motorsports. This would have cut my tuning time in half, but I got a good tune by using the narrowband sensor.



Would I do the conversion again? Oh yea, this stuff rocks!:rockon I have better performance than the carb, and I didn't break the bank either. Roughly the conversion cost less than $1000 with all the parts I put in including the Duraspark upgrade.

Thanks for the bandwidth.

Steve
 

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I have been thinking of doing this as well, a friend uses it on his race cars and swears by it. Good write up and glad you enjoy it!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Let me know if you need any help.

There are a lot of vendors you can find on the MSEFI site and you can even buy adapters that will plug right into the EEC4 harness here

Steve
 

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Will you be able to pass emissions down there in Cali? I bet it actually burns cleaner than it did.

Is the controller staying under the hole in the dash or are you going to put it in the hole?

One last silly question. Will you be hooking up a laptop like on the movies? If you do you should post a pic :)
 

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I'm over in Arizona in a backwoods county that doesn't have emissions, and under Arizona Law, I can register the vehicle as "classic" :rofl: and bypass emissions. This is not a daily driver, but a backup vehicle, so I'm not putting a lot of miles on her. I will be replacing the Cat and EGR soon, since they will actually help performance...

There is no structure behind the dash around the map pocket, so the controller has been right where it is for 2 years. So far so good.

I've logged quite a few miles with the laptop hooked up. I can post a couple pics of that if you like. Pretty cool to have a laptop hooked up to the truck when the laptop cost me more than the truck.
 

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MS is one of the best standalones out there, nice choice. I'll be using MSnS on my car thats a never ending project.

-Tyler
 

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I know. It's so easy to tweak, I find myself hooking the computer up every time I find a bit of a stumble. I need to chase down a burble when I rev the engine with no load. found it when I did the sound recording.

If you haven't looked at a wideband, do it. well worth the money. With MS2, set your AFR's and then just drive. autotune takes care of most.

I've got the LM1 from innovate motorsports.
 

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I have done the GM trottle body on my 81 with a 351M used the GM computer and wired in the spark control with knock sensor. Work real good still wins at the truck pull and a lot nicer to drive. The computer has a self learning ability so it learned how to be FORD real quick.

Brad
 

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Did your mpg pick up ?

Sixlitre
 

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I have a ms1.3 for my turbo ford that I have yet to install. Yours looks great man, any tips to keep in mind?
-Justin
 

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I will be researching this more, I plan on the MS II and using EDIS. Just need to figure out what is involved in the install of the 36-1 trigger wheel and what to do with the dizzy. I cant seem to find a build sheet unfortunately, would be really nice to be able to just get a list of items needed and purchase here and there while I am away. Know of any sites that may have that?
 

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I know. It's so easy to tweak, I find myself hooking the computer up every time I find a bit of a stumble. I need to chase down a burble when I rev the engine with no load. found it when I did the sound recording.

If you haven't looked at a wideband, do it. well worth the money. With MS2, set your AFR's and then just drive. autotune takes care of most.

I've got the LM1 from innovate motorsports.
Innovate is def the way to go!

redescort, what kind of turbo Frod product you have going on? Is your Mazda powered as well?

-Tyler
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Did your mpg pick up ?

Sixlitre
actually yes, it did. I can tune the fuel that, when at a light cruise (IE high manifold vacum), I can run an AFR of about 16-1 instead of the emissions required 14.7-1 this is a leaner than you would want to run a cat with. I have also tuned it so that when I roll into the throttle, it runs an AFR of about 13-1 which gives best power.

Most of this was easy to set up with the innovate O2 sensor.
 

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I have a ms1.3 for my turbo ford that I have yet to install. Yours looks great man, any tips to keep in mind?
-Justin
Read the Megamanual. especially the turbocharging section. That is some of the best info for free on the web. Real no bullshite info.

I used that resource when I did MS2 on a Sand Rail with an Aircooled VW 2276 with a turbo running E-85. Thing puts out about 245HP on a 1200LB rail. scary.
 

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I will be researching this more, I plan on the MS II and using EDIS. Just need to figure out what is involved in the install of the 36-1 trigger wheel and what to do with the dizzy. I cant seem to find a build sheet unfortunately, would be really nice to be able to just get a list of items needed and purchase here and there while I am away. Know of any sites that may have that?
I'm not sure what EDIS people are doing with the Dizzy. You have to keep part of it to drive the Oil pump. Check this out. It's for a Cheby, but might be somewhere to start

Course you could always go dry sump. :rockon

What kind of build sheet are you talking about. For the EDIS? I would say surf the MSEFI site and look at the success stories. probable someone has already done what you want to.

Let me know if I can help on the build!

Steve
 

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actually yes, it did. I can tune the fuel that, when at a light cruise (IE high manifold vacum), I can run an AFR of about 16-1 instead of the emissions required 14.7-1 this is a leaner than you would want to run a cat with. I have also tuned it so that when I roll into the throttle, it runs an AFR of about 13-1 which gives best power.

Most of this was easy to set up with the innovate O2 sensor.
Pretty neat :thumbup

Sixlitre
 

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Read the Megamanual. especially the turbocharging section. That is some of the best info for free on the web. Real no bullshite info.
thanks man! I have read through it, just figured I'd ask since you just did yours...I few escort guys have already done it, so It won't be too bad.

redescort, what kind of turbo Frod product you have going on? Is your Mazda powered as well?

-Tyler
my 92 is mazda powered, the turbo 97 is a cvh motor, 2.0 spi (sohc). not real great power wise, but reponds very well to boost and very durable. plus tons of euro goodies for it. It has edis from the factory so I don't need a trigger wheel or anything, plus its been running for 2 years on afpr/afmu/cobra injecters, custom fuel rail. It will be nice to be able to tune it to the T. Sorry about the hi-jack borflink!!!:whiteflag
-Justin
 
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