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Build has been ongoing for years and I'll try to document what I have in pictures and descriptions over the next few days. There are a lot of pictures and getting them in order will take time.

How I found it, for sale locally back in 2010/11. Stock 400, C6, 205. 44 with 8 lug outers up front and an open 14 bolt out back. Pizza cutter boggers on steelies and a non-leaking top!



Test drive revealed some serious off idle fuel delivery issues and death wobble that would make a daredevil nervous.... drove her home anyway!



 

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Making the rig run right and drive straight included a complete fuel system replacement, poly tank and sending unit from JBG, new fuel pump etc., but what really made her level out was a replacement truck avenger, swapped out by Holley under warranty (first series defect). New ball joints and wheel bearings plus a few packages of balancing beads and a new track bar from bullet proof got the death wobble under control. She spent most of the year in this form...





then came the addition of a spool up front and viola, carnage...



Broke two long side outers before going to chromo shafts and spicer joints up front.
 

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That first winter with boggers taught me a lot about their draw backs. Ended up buying a used set of Iroks and mounted them on TWF modded H1 wheels. Also welded the 14 bolt for a little extra traction.




Before my first trip up to TSF I tapped my steering box for assist (thanks to OX's threads) and scabbed together a kit from some redneck parts and another projects leftovers. TSF pretty quickly schooled me on the weakness of stock tie rods amplified by horrible assist geometry.





Ended up buying a ruffstuff steering kit and rebuilding all of it, paying close attention to geometry. Added a ballistic diff cover as the anchor point.



 

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The summer of 2012 brought a quest for some more power and the death of my first C6.

I had a local Ford shop (Garrett Machine) work over a pair of stock heads. We shaved .01 off the deck and installed 4v exhaust valves. Added a set of long tubes, a decent RV cam (non-retard), new timing gears and chain. Woke her up a bit but I didn't take a single picture of the parts or the install.



Blew the transmission on a local hill climb and had it rebuilt by a local shop, TransTech in Albany Oregon. 1200 stall, HD everything, still in the truck today and doing great.

With the kids riding around inside and enough power to really do some damage I decided to build a cage. Started with the stock bar sourced from a local buddy. From there we just started kind of playing it as it lay.







We left it there for a while.... and went wheeling!

This...

Led to this...



And finally, broke one of the chromo shafts.. this calls for a winter upgrade.

 

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Winter of '12 began parts collection for a 60 install..

Picked this up semi-locally, for too much money. 1979 snowfighter 60.



Searched for good deals and ended up with Yukon 35 spline chromo's, spicer joints, gears and install kit from Just Differentials, Yukon slugs, and an OX locker. Sourced all of the brake parts locally and build my own case spreader to get it all done.

The ring gear from Just Differentials and the carrier from OX were at the opposite end of their tolerances and after some haggling I was able to return the R+P and sourced a new set from Drivetrain America (Spicer) that fit perfectly.




Disassembly and clean up, this thing was mess.

Pulling the chunk -


A good size bearing puller is nearly required to get the pinion out. Fortunately we had one at work.


Guts extracted.


Sweeping the tubes.


The boy knocking down the high spots.


Empty and getting close to paint.


Looking nice now.



Fresh rotors and shafts waiting on their new home. I have the PN here somewhere for the proper studs...
 

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At this point I had two days to get this done in order to make mud fest '13 so pictures are few and far between.

Tearing out the old 44...



Fitting and hanging the new 60...



I used Jim Cole's arms, porkchops, and frame brackets. Unfortunately, the t-case on my rig has the long adapter which put the torsion arm right where the drivers side bracket goes.... getting late so I cut and welded it in.


Day before mudfest and the list of things to complete is still long but the axle is hanging under the rig!



Getting late but almost there!


Knocking out the stands at 3AM, loaded up by 4... what a night.



Mudfest!


 

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Discussion Starter #7
Spring/Summer of 2013 included a few planned trips to TSF and mudding around the state so I picked up (rescued) a flat bed trailer and traded in my wagon for a super duty to haul it around.

Back to stock and By-By baby!


Hello truck and trailer.



Redecked/rewired/relighted and new tires, rebuilt brakes and swapped a 5th wheel pin in for the goose.




First load -up, plenty of room!


Makes for a good camper too!


Random pics from that time frame...
Waterfall body damage


TSF night run


Halfway up rocky uphill


Before-during-after at our local spot in crabtree Oregon. decided the Iroks were getting down to the point that they would become worthless if I didn't sell them soon, so I did. Ended up borrowing a set of TSL's and tractor tires for this run. If you've never run tractor tires you have to at least once.


 

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Ended up going with 43" SX's in the 16.5 flavor. Best price was from Trailworthy after about a month of quoting and searching.

Delivered first part of 2014.


Barely fit!


While waiting on delivery I had the main wheel portions powdercoated and jumped on the water jet here at work to burn out a set of rock rings and 4v to 2v adapters for the sanderson shorties below.





The shorties, and adapters. I have a CAD file for this adapter if anyone wants to copy.



Ended up painting her ford tractor red after a few drinks of fireball...
Grinding, hammering, and washing.




Coats of red...



 

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Oops, skipped a step. I found a buyer for my front axle and got a truck load of parts and a set of prebent front cage pieces. You'll notice the front half of the cage is installed in the pictures above.

Truckload of parts, seats and doors!


Layout out 1/4 doors from the beat up originals.



Finished and installed.


Here's a closeup of the front half of the cage.


Also notice that the gas tank is in the "bed", move up due to this... it was taking a beating down there.


Also at some point I installed an HEI due to being stranded by the duraspark one too many times.

A run up around Yamhill in early 2014.


Mudfest 2014 ended early thanks to a u-joint/pinion failure. Afterwards I installed a set of GreatLakes caps which held together


Couple of JY pinions snatched up for their yokes.


Caps installed.


Found out this summer that it was axle wrap related, or maybe it was the [email protected]



In either case I installed some axle wrap help. Got the basics from ruffstuff and welded the tubes to the housing at the same time.



Almost to the present, I'll wrap this up tomorrow!
 

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Looking at peoples 78/79s makes me want one soooo bad, great looking bronco, someday ill get one to go with my 95 :)
 

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This is one badass Bronco man.
 

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Nice back story, carnage is the price we pay to play. Red rum is looking good, those sx's are nice with the beadlocks are you running balance beads in them? :beer
 

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Really like the traction bar, great idea on the slip style. I think that should be even less binding then the shackle setup for those
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Nice back story, carnage is the price we pay to play. Red rum is looking good, those sx's are nice with the beadlocks are you running balance beads in them? :beer
You pretty much have to, with the recentered wheels and the PVC inserts normal balancing is just about impossible. I ended up using 24oz per wheel with these (vs 12oz in the Iroks) due to the massive weight of the SX's. I've heard that you can use air soft pellets but I decided not to risk it and went with dynabeads.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Cool build man, looks similar in some areas to what I've got planned for my "Black Stallion" project. Can yo give some more details on the 4v to 2v swap and also the front axle parts you used?
Sure thing. Our domestic 2V heads don't have enough material on the exhaust side to seal against 4V headers, the tubes end up open to the spark plug notches. I've heard that the Aussie 2V heads do have enough material but looking at the set I've got I don't believe it.

Long story short, I needed a set of shorty headers to replace the cracked manifold that replaced the bashed longtubes. The only shorty headers that fit our rigs, that I could find anyway, were the sandersons (FC2 I believe) but they were 4V.

Once I acquired a set I could tell that they would never seal against my heads. So, I mapped out a 2V gasket and overlaid the 4V flange and came up with a plate that would seal against both surfaces. I have 2D and 3D CAD files for anyone looking to make a set, free.

Axle parts.
Yukon 35 spline 4340 chromoly inner and outer axles (#'s W46101, W48216, W48206)
These knuckles need to be ground down to fit the inner C's on a stock '79 60.
Yukon 35 spline drive slugs (#YHC50005)
Spicer joints (don't have the number here in front of me)
4:10 R+P set from Drivetrain America (Just Diff's, JT's Parts R+P didn't work out too well).
JT's provided the bearings/seals/KingPin Parts though. I have all these part numbers if you're interested.
Finally, the OX locker came directly from OX. These guys are great to deal with. Kind of a small outfit compared to ARB et al but really well made stuff. Once I got the cable dialed in it has performed flawlessly.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Really like the traction bar, great idea on the slip style. I think that should be even less binding then the shackle setup for those
Absolutely cannot bind as far as I can tell. Another bonus is that it provides a sort of ramp on that side to protect the yokes/pinion a little. I built from 1/4" wall DOM.
 

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Bringing it up to the present -

I added a set of sliders at some point, I used a set intended for a Yota which were chopped down to fit the wheel base. The leftovers ended up on the front to keep my headlights out of the rocks... These work OK but eventually I'll cut them off and add a real front bumper.



Found this one day...


Which I fixed by going disks in the rear. I bought the Gubni (pirate) kit for the early 14bolt and everything fit perfect. I had to install a '79 F350 booster/MC to put the power to the rears and added a Jegs adjustable prop valve to balance it all out. Very happy with this set up.


After installing the big(er) tires I needed to open up the fenders even more to accommodate. For this high precision job I used a dead blow and a crescent wrench to roll the lips in.


I also chopped about 14" off of the back of the body and moved my rear air tank up onto the frame rails (York OBA was started by the PO but finished by me). That rear passenger corner was taking a real beating and on steep departures I was hanging up on the frame back there. The chop caused the rear to lift about 2" due to the weight reduction.




I still need to fill in the openings but it ended up looking "OK".


My buddy and I took two leaves out of each pack to level it off, moves a lot better now too.

In the winter of '13 I kept stalling out on a steep climb called Waterfall out here in the Tillamook state forest. I decided then and there that Propane was the way to go. I found a used setup and set about installing it. I quickly found out that the old application was far from stock and after months of tuning I think I've got it dialed in. I did install an AFR gauge to help with the tuning. I've collected tanks since and now have two 10gal and two 8gal spares, enough for 2-3 days of light wheeling.


My first propane trip, burned a bottle in 30 miles, 3 miles per gallon?? I didn't even make it home. Let the tuning begin :banghead


I was having some overheating issues at the same time, probably caused by the super rich mixture and non-pane tailored timing. I added a three core aluminum radiator, Tarus Fan/Alternator, and one of the Robert Shaw t-stats (thanks to some threads on here).

Next up, what I'm working on now!! :beer
 
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