Bronco Forum - Full Size Ford Bronco Forum banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
81 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I've been going through the entire cooling system and this is the last hose/tube I want to replace, but I can't find this thing anywhere, dealer only?? Also, if this part is unavailable new, can I cut the rubber hose part off and just hose clamp a new piece of 5/8" heater hose. Will it seal without flaring the end of pipe?

1996 XL with 5 speed manual 5.0L

[/URL][/IMG]
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
26,042 Posts
Yo,
Confirm it is;
In Ford Parts On-Line catalog @
http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/CatalogResults.aspx?y=1996&m=Ford&mo=Bronco#Search
96 18B402 OEM Ford TUBE - HEATER WATER. ATTCAHED Diagram;
8548 (KM-3057)
Engine Coolant By-Pass Hose
5.0L; F5TH-BA
or;

8548 (KM-2993)
Engine Coolant By-Pass Hose
5.0L; E4OD; Super cooling pkg.

also;
96 Bronco-F-Series Workshop Manual (PARTIAL)

Section 03-03: Engine Cooling
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
Water Bypass Hose
5.0L and 5.8L


Coolant Line & By-pass reducer & Tee in 5.8 Parts Break-Out Diagram Item #51, Part number 18B402; Tube, Heater Hot Water; (one leg runs to throttle body); "...Some V engines also have a bypass hose which allows coolant to return directly to the water pump. There may also be a small circuit to the throttle body for de-icing, which typically returns to the radiator upper tank...."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/624513_1

Throttle Body Coolant Line & By-pass reducer & Tee (one leg runs to throttle body); "...Some V engines also have a bypass hose which allows coolant to return directly to the water pump. There may also be a small circuit to the throttle body for de-icing, which typically returns to the radiator upper tank...."
Source: by Steve83

Coolant Line & By-pass reducer & Tee in 5.8 Parts Break-Out Diagram Item #51, Part number 18B402; Tube, Heater Hot Water; (one leg runs to throttle body); "...Some V engines also have a bypass hose which allows coolant to return directly to the water pump. There may also be a small circuit to the throttle body for de-icing, which typically returns to the radiator upper tank...."
Source: by Steve83


Coolant Line & By-pass reducer & Tee (one leg runs to throttle body) info & pics in a 90; "...An Agriculture Supply shop that builds custom crop sprayers had high temp plastic. One 1/2 inch T and one 1/2" to 3/8" coupler, new hoses, and new clamps..."
Source: by Supersanbob (Super Bronco) at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/17162/64929

Throttle Body Coolant Line From Radiator; Ford part number; "Looked at my receipt today and the part # is F2TZ8555B, not F5 like I originally listed. Sorry about that. The parts guy said the 24" one was the same number but with "A" instead on "B" at the end. Also if anyone is interested, the part number for the water outlet on the lower intake manifold that has the port for the temp sensor and tubes for the heater core and TB is E8TZ-18B402-C and it too is still available..."
Source: by mbastianel at http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=137941

It can be confizzling. 5.0L engines usually have the tee setup, whereas 5.8L engines with the E4OD (most of 'em) have the one pictured with the line going straight from the top of the throttle body to the filler neck (sourced @ that nipple near the ECT and thermostat housing). Technically, as long as you have a pressurized feed into the bottom fitting (sourced from the 'top' of the engine), and a path for return (to the filler neck), coolant should flow. by SigEpBlue at http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=156267
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,828 Posts
I've been going through the entire cooling system and this is the last hose/tube I want to replace, but I can't find this thing anywhere, dealer only?? Also, if this part is unavailable new, can I cut the rubber hose part off and just hose clamp a new piece of 5/8" heater hose. Will it seal without flaring the end of pipe?

1996 XL with 5 speed manual 5.0L

[/URL][/IMG]
Yes, the only reason they use the crimp fitting is because it's faster and doesn't have to be tightened. A hose clap will work fine. Mine was like that for years before I removed it due to a persistant leak at the other end of the tube.

I don't know if you can get them at the dealer. I just kept a look out at the junkyard and recently found one that would fit mine. Came from a 5.8 Econoline.
 

·
Roller rockers are gay
Joined
·
19,197 Posts
I'd throw a flare on the end of if it, even if you have to pay a machine or hose shop $20 to do it. Trust me nothing would suck more than for it to slip off. Ask me how I know....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,828 Posts
I'd throw a flare on the end of if it, even if you have to pay a machine or hose shop $20 to do it. Trust me nothing would suck more than for it to slip off. Ask me how I know....
IIRC they already have a flare.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
81 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
IIRC they already have a flare.
So I should be able to remove that pressed on rubber hose without damaging the flared end? What's the best method to do so? Cut off wheel or something, thanks!

Edit: the metal portion of the tube is fine, no corrosion, rubber hose is suspect and thin where the spring clamp was
 

·
Roller rockers are gay
Joined
·
19,197 Posts
Pfun...I can only assume you cut off the aluminum crimp section parallel to the hose to expose that flare then. I (and presume the OP) would just have taken a tubing cutter to the exposed line.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
81 Posts
Discussion Starter #9

·
I did done broke it
Joined
·
2,276 Posts
Just throw two clamps on each side and you'll be fine
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
7,386 Posts
BTW
That's not a "bypass". It's a formed steel tube where it passes near the belt so that it doesn't get rubbed or tangled.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top