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I've wanted to do this for years. Actually grabbed a D44 from a forum member in Maine back in 2009. He wanted it gone, well, his mother wanted it out of her driveway. :whiteflag

I gave him $40 for his time to drive it the MA border and met him there. It has sat in MY driveway for the past two years, and recently MY WIFE has made it clear that she is tired of seeing it. :histerica

Seems to be from a '78. The BOM is 610019, but the BOM numbers online do not start until 610023. So this axle is either a late 77 F150 or early 78 F150/Bronco I figure. The other key code is D8TA. The stock radius arms had been torched off, but the C's were both there. The spring cups are rusted and one is bent pretty badly.

The subject for this swap is my '96 Bronco. Bought her 11 years ago.




Yeah, it's not a very recent pic, but it looks the same right now as this spring, and it was the closest pic I had on hand.

The rear has already been done with Deaver's 5.5" lift springs. If necessary, I can ad a 1" zero-rate to level the truck out. I need to get the truck in to have the Eaton Posi checked out. The guys that did the initial work 100,000+ miles ago are down in PA. I went in to see them recently and either the clutches are bad and need to be replaced, or there is a problem with the housing. They want to dismantle it prior to making a call on the real cause of the noises. Hoping to get that done sooner rather than later.

Hopes - about a 6" lift. I have 33's now, but 35's would be great. 37's might be too much, but I've never seen a Bronco on 37's in real life, so I'm going to get this work done, and see what space I have to work with and go from there.

My reading shows that with '78 coil buckets, a 6" '78 spring nets you 8-9 inches, so I guess a 4" coil with the stock buckets is what I want. I want the front and rear to behave the same, so Deaver coils will be used up front. I do plan to move the buckets forward an inch as everyone does.

As for the radius arms - James Duff. I know they are costly, and will be the biggest ticket item in this entire build, but I'm not a "structural" welder, and I know it.

When it comes to the track bar mount, I'm going to go with FoxBravo's suggestion of the SuperDuty drop mount. I'll start with the stock track bar (and new bushings) and go to the bullet proof unit once I have a measurement.

Steering - my plan was to use the stock tie rod setup and use the adapter to run the late Bronco pitman. I'm not a hardcore wheeler, so don't need bulletproof steering at this point. I was going to go the "stock" route to save some money. Looking at the prices of all of the parts and that crap adds up quick.

New trans mount is required by the Duff arms, so I'll get on that so it is ready when the actual swap occurs.

The gears and limited slip will come out of the TTB and be installed in the Dana 44.

Started to tear it apart last night and get it cleaned up. Doing this alone, I was glad I put a 3-point hitch on the tractor:








After a few hours of wire wheel and conditioning pads, and she is looking better than ever. Still a few more hours to go to finish the ends and clean up the center section.




The track bar bolt came out easily with the hot-wrench and PB Blaster. :goodfinge I have no idea how I worked on stuff before buying that!! So that is just a new grade-8 bolt to replace the original one?






So, how the hell do you clean out the tubes???

And with the gap between the tube and the axle shaft, anyone ever try a tube seal like these for the Jeep guys? http://www.4wheelparts.com/Drivetra...s.aspx?t_c=12&t_s=237&t_pt=101188&t_pl=103311

Lastly (for now anyway), the C's seem to have quite a bit of rut, but I cannot tell if they are still good or if I should find other units.








Cannot wait to get progress on this project. Thanks to everyone who has done this before and paved the way for everyone else! :thumbup
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Some more hours with a wire wheel and conditioning disk:



I did get the centersection seals out and cleaned out the axle tubes with various pieces of long metal and the air compressor.
Then shot on some zinc-based primer:








I took a good look at my knuckles next and one should be replaced. It is rusted pretty bad at one of the thin spots and actually has a few pin holes there. Looks like it took a beating somehow.
 

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TTB for short
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What is that mower? Looks like a 316,318,or 332. I have a 332 with the yanmar diesel... its a sweet ride.
 

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has one helluva
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good progress...i wish when i did my sas duff had those dual shock towers...they musta just came out with those.. i guess when i do dual shock the front (which it needs) then i will have to order a set
 

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Looking good, will definately be watching as I'm doing the sas to my 95, the axle almost has to be teh 78-79 with the cast wedges/outer portion.

The bronco looked great back when you bought it too, so it can only get better looking!
 

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What is that mower? Looks like a 316,318,or 332. I have a 332 with the yanmar diesel... its a sweet ride.
She's a 318. Looked for year before I could find one that was priced right. For a 25 year old mower, people still want an arm and a leg. This one needed paint, a new hood, and still needs a new seat. Buddy that found it in PA for me also found a broken 3-point rock ram that we welded up and is good as new enough. He also gave me an old 3-point drag plow. Makes it unstoppable in the snow. First one with power steering I've ever had. Never going back!


good progress...i wish when i did my sas duff had those dual shock towers...they musta just came out with those.. i guess when i do dual shock the front (which it needs) then i will have to order a set
And the price is not bad when you consider $25 a piece for Ford ones and needing four. Definitely on my list.


good start to the build. keep the pics coming! :popc1:
I'm a pic whore, so there will be plenty. :thumbup


Looking good, will definately be watching as I'm doing the sas to my 95, the axle almost has to be teh 78-79 with the cast wedges/outer portion.

The bronco looked great back when you bought it too, so it can only get better looking!
I drove past the dealership where she sat 10 years ago with no lift and 32's, saw that color combo and knew i wanted that particular truck. Added a 2.5 lift and later swapped to Deaver 5.5" rear leafs. Now on to the front.


Ok, so I got paint on the main housing and it looks nearly new. Amazing.

One of the knuckles needs to be replaced, so hitting eBay for that.

On to the brake caliper mounts. They have some rust, so I decided to try the electrolysis method and see what happens.



Into a container of 3G of water and 8 tablespoons of washing soda. Battery charger set to 2A, neg lead on the part, pos lead on the steel rod into the water. Keep the container near the outside to vent the hydrogen gas:




After almost 4 hours, this is what that steel rod looked like:





I cleaned it off and actually had to sand it to expose clean steel. The rod has substantial pits in it from this process. The part is looking better already! Should be done tonight, and then on to the next one.
 

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has one helluva
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take it from me....ive done a SAS....if you plan on taking your truck offroad after the SAS, the a locker is worth its weight in gold...ive got lockers front and rear in my truck and absolutely love it...besides, its not like you have to buy one "new"..they are up for sale all the time on the classifieds sections of here, pirate4x4, etc in either new or like new condition for a fraction of the cost..















DO IT. that is all.
 

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Former owner of Shadofax
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Couple things for you Mike.....

looks good so far.
some guys have run those outer seals. I never have, but don't go in deep water and mud very often.
looks like you got your outer tubes cleaned so won't give advice there, but also make sure your breather is clean.

Those C's are rusted to heck and will only continue to slough metal, so I would not use them. Nor would I use lower coil cups in that condition, buy new or in very good shape.

610019 is for a '78 f100/f150 pickup or bronco with part time Tcase.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Awesome, many thanks Mark!! You truck was one of my inspirations to even consider this swap. Such a pretty beast she is.

The lower coil mounts are pretty bad so I had no plans to use them, but I was not sure out the C's, so they are out now too. Less to clean I guess??

I did get the tubes clean. It was easy once I got the axle seals out of the center section and could actually see in there. Some nasty shite up in there!!


Think I'll be looking for a small sand blast cabinet here in a few days. This chemical rust removal does work, but it takes time. I cleaned the steel rod a few times throughout the day, and each time, it was caked with rust and nastiness of the brown and green kind.

While I have your ear Mark, where did you get new transfer case nuts for the output shafts? I have a manual tcase that I've rebuild with all new bearings, oil pump, and seals and the only thing stopping the swap is getting my hands on some nuts. Hmmmm, kinda regret writing that already....
 

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Awesome, many thanks Mark!! You truck was one of my inspirations to even consider this swap. Such a pretty beast she is.

The lower coil mounts are pretty bad so I had no plans to use them, but I was not sure out the C's, so they are out now too. Less to clean I guess??

I did get the tubes clean. It was easy once I got the axle seals out of the center section and could actually see in there. Some nasty shite up in there!!


Think I'll be looking for a small sand blast cabinet here in a few days. This chemical rust removal does work, but it takes time. I cleaned the steel rod a few times throughout the day, and each time, it was caked with rust and nastiness of the brown and green kind.

While I have your ear Mark, where did you get new transfer case nuts for the output shafts? I have a manual tcase that I've rebuild with all new bearings, oil pump, and seals and the only thing stopping the swap is getting my hands on some nuts. Hmmmm, kinda regret writing that already....
?

not sure which tcase nuts your referring to, any pics or diagram?
 

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?

not sure which tcase nuts your referring to, any pics or diagram?
The nuts that hold on the output flange for the rear and the output yoke for the front. Originally, they are those special locking nuts, and I did not want to reuse them for fear of the loss of the locking/jam feature.

Plus side, since I'm swapping to a manual, it means I have a spare flange for the front shaft upgrade! :beer
 

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The nuts that hold on the output flange for the rear and the output yoke for the front. Originally, they are those special locking nuts, and I did not want to reuse them for fear of the loss of the locking/jam feature.

Plus side, since I'm swapping to a manual, it means I have a spare flange for the front shaft upgrade! :beer
Does the rear flange fit on the front splines?
 

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take it from me....ive done a SAS....if you plan on taking your truck offroad after the SAS, the a locker is worth its weight in gold...ive got lockers front and rear in my truck and absolutely love it...besides, its not like you have to buy one "new"..they are up for sale all the time on the classifieds sections of here, pirate4x4, etc in either new or like new condition for a fraction of the cost..

DO IT. that is all.
I have been told that a locker (non-selectable) in the front will break stock axles.

Didn't you break an axle shortly after doing the SAS?
 

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The nuts that hold on the output flange for the rear and the output yoke for the front. Originally, they are those special locking nuts, and I did not want to reuse them for fear of the loss of the locking/jam feature.

Plus side, since I'm swapping to a manual, it means I have a spare flange for the front shaft upgrade! :beer
I reused mine, never been an issue coming loose. I likely put some locktite blue on before install.

Does the rear flange fit on the front splines?
yep, I had a spare rear as well off my old electric that is now my front output flange.
 

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I have been told that a locker (non-selectable) in the front will break stock axles.
Didn't you break an axle shortly after doing the SAS?
It will create added stress for sure. Since you can't select it to be off like with an ARB, it binds a ton every time you turn. Also makes it so you don't want to turn sharply since the more you turn the more it binds.

non-selectable up front is not ideal for sure, but a lot of people want to be locked F/R and can't afford the added expense of selectable.

I've experienced this with my ARB a time or two just by leaving it on while turning.
 
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