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Discussion Starter #1
I just got my mini spool in the mail today and was wanting to put it in on friday. I have a few questions about taking the TTB appart to install the mini.

So far I have gathered that I will need to jack the truck up.. Take the wheels and hubs off. Then unbolt the 3rd member. But how do I take it out with the axles still in? And how can I pull the axles out if the c clips are still in?

The install of the mini seems easy except for the breakdown of the axle.
Will the 3rd member just come off? Do I need to pull the axles out far to do this?
The instructions aren't that good and my repair book is vague on how to take the d44 appart.

Thanks guys.

PS... I did a search and used a few key words and still didn't have much luck.
 

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Basically everything from the knuckles out will have to come off/out. Notice I said basically, not everything; use common sense. The axleshafts will have to come out so the 3rd member comes out. The left axle will come off once the spindle is removed. The stub shaft on the ride hand side will stay in the 3rd member, while the intermediate shaft(?) the one between the stub shaft and outter shaft, will slip out of the slip joint and boot. Drop the 3rd member (it's heavy!) and the internals will be revealed. Push the stub shaft in and pull the clip, it looks more like an E-clip that a c-clip. When you put it back together you won't be able to use the clip, so use a spring in the slip shaft to keep tention on the stub shaft so it doesn't slip out. There's a few threads on that one floating around here.

Also, you'll have to pull the carrier and either 1) pull off the ring gear or 2) grind down a few teeth on the ring gear to remove the cross pin. You CAN NOT install the mini without taking the carrier out and apart. I pulled the ring gear and torqued it down (along with carrier bearing caps) accordingly...no problems as of yet. Dave's Bronc 90 grinded down a few teeth on his ring gear to pull his cross pin. AFAIK, he hasn't had any problems with it, but I'll leave it up to him to tell you how it's doing.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Wow.. I didn't know I needed to do all that.. Sounds like a full day job. Maybe 2 days if I am doing it alone for the first time
 

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It sounds like a lot, but it doesn't really take much time at all.

What brand mini-spool did you get?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I bought a Richmond mini and pin from Ogeechee. I thought it would be a quick install. I wanted to have it in before I went on a trip this weekend. Why cant you still use the C clip when puting this in?
 

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There is no provision for it, no room at least not in mine. You can try it to put it in, but I'm fairly sure it won't work.

For what's involved, I think it's a quick install. It doesn't take all that much time. I think it'd take maybe 6 hours or so if even; it can definitely be done in a Saturday.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I just haven't taken the TTB that much appart so it seems like a daunting task. I wanted to put it in for this weekend's trip to try it out and have some fun. Maybe I will try to battle it on friday.
 

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When I put my mini up front, it was the first time I had mine tore down that far. I think from start to finish, I was done in maybe 8-10 hours and that was only because I was putting in new u-joints up front and replacing the factory pieces that were rusted to the shafts....that and I had to get on here to ask for torque specs on the ring gear since I couldn't find it in any of my manuals.

Just to make sure/clarify: The beams and radius arms do NOT need to be dropped or taken loose. Everything should come out without having to touch them.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I think I need to crawl under the truck and take a look on how things are put together. I still cant picture how I can take the 3rd member off the arms with out first pulling the C clips. I dont think I am going to have this put in before the weekend. I wanted to try it out in the desert and have some fun in the sand.
 

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The only axle with a clip in the front is the right (passenger side) shaft, the left side doesn't have one. The right axle shaft is composed of 3 peices: the stubshaft/slipjoint, the intermediate shaft *middle shaft*, and the outter shaft (terminology maybe and probably is wrong). When you pull your right axle shaft out at the knuckle the intermediate shaft will be attached to the outter shaft via u-joint and on the other end near the differential, it's attached via a slip joint; IT WILL SLIDE OUT. With that out, all that is left is the 3rd member with the stub shaft and accompanying u-joint. That comes out as one piece if you will.

Maybe this will clear things up: http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13107&highlight=stub+shaft
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ahhhh... Ok.. Got it now.. So another question. Maybe it will differ with years/age but is the clip that holds the dust boot in the right side made to come off and then back on or is it something I will need to get new? Depending on the condition of mine I might get a new one anyway.
 

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I found that you only have to take the Drivers side breaks, rotor, and spindle
off and pull the drivers side axle shaft out if you need to pull the front diff out.

I run 37's so I have gotten used to pulling the front end apart to swap axle shafts out........:banghead

For the boot, Cut the steel clip off and repace it with a zip tie when you are done if your boot is still ok. A new one from Ford only cost me $12 when I replaced mine........

Also, if you are going to run the spool up front I would think hard about putting a D50 slip shaft up front. That D44 shaft was the first thing I broke when I locked up the front end on my rig......

Compare the two.

 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well damm.. I did want to do the D50 stub upgrade. Looks like I wont put the mini in before my trip. I really wanted to try it out and have some fun in the sand. Oh well.. =(
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Cool pictures.. Looks like since I am going to have it all appart I should also put in the D50 shaft and get all new U joints. It's probably been talked about before on here but what U joints will I need to replace the front factory ones with some stronger ones? Considering I will use the D50 stub and buy them at a auto parts store? I just put all new bearings in the front end but I know my U joints should be replaced also.
 

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unfortunately not much out there for replacement u-joints...(crappy ttb) i just went and replaced mine with spicer u-joints and temkin bearings. should have done the d-50 swap but oh well.
 

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XLTChris said:
Well damm.. I did want to do the D50 stub upgrade. Looks like I wont put the mini in before my trip. I really wanted to try it out and have some fun in the sand. Oh well.. =(
It is a nice upgrade to do, but it's no mandatory though I will agree it is highly advised to do so. Mine is still intact after a run with the mini-spool up front at Uwharrie National Forrest. I'll be doing mine whenever mine explodes as the truck isn't driven all that much anymore.
 

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If you have 3:73:'s or higher gears you should be able to install the the mini spool with out pulling the carrier and ring gear.

Aslo...If you put a mini spool in a 44 ttb you need to become an expert in tearing that axle down...cuz you're going to be doing often.

The job should take about 2 hours or less to complete but it will more then likely take you about 8 hours to do the job if you've never taken an axle down that far.
 

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That is so true. Took me over night to do mine the first time cause I kept wanting to replace more crap.

Now with everything new and air tools I swap out and axle shaft in a little
over an hour if I don't get any dirt in it..

Buy or get ahold of at minimum: A complete front axle shaft set, from end to end. Upgrade all you can in the set you have on the rig and just use the
extra for trail fixing....

Good luck.
 
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