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Discussion Starter #1
I've tried searching around for tailgate wiring help (and there's a bunch of info out there), but I can't seem to find something that will help with my issue. If someone knows of an existing thread that I was unable to find, please post a link.

Anyways, the guy I bought my '96 bronco from was an idiot and somehow completely jacked up the wiring for the rear window, including removing the tailgate key switch.

I have 5 wires coming into the tailgate:
2x black
Brown/blue
purple/blue
purple/green

and obviously I have the red and yellow wires that go up to the window motor. The latch switch is still in place by has been cut out of the system, and the wire stubs are too short to splice into.

There is a key cylinder still in the tailgate, but nothing with wiring to help out with.

I don't care about the tailgate key switch (unless someone knows where to find one), so at this point I would like to bypass this switch and run the rear window exclusively off of the dash switch. Is this possible?
 

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I've tried searching around for tailgate wiring help (and there's a bunch of info out there), but I can't seem to find something that will help with my issue. If someone knows of an existing thread that I was unable to find, please post a link.

Anyways, the guy I bought my '96 bronco from was an idiot and somehow completely jacked up the wiring for the rear window, including removing the tailgate key switch.

I have 5 wires coming into the tailgate:
2x black
Brown/blue
purple/blue
purple/green

and obviously I have the red and yellow wires that go up to the window motor. The latch switch is still in place by has been cut out of the system, and the wire stubs are too short to splice into.

There is a key cylinder still in the tailgate, but nothing with wiring to help out with.

I don't care about the tailgate key switch (unless someone knows where to find one), so at this point I would like to bypass this switch and run the rear window exclusively off of the dash switch. Is this possible?

Lots of issues with the bronco tailgates. Steve83 is the man when it comes to learning ANYTHING and EVRYTHING you need to manage these gates. Here is the site. Good Luck

http://www.supermotors.net/registry/2742/12689-2
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the link, it has a ton of great info (including which parts I'm missing). Unfortunately, I wasn't able to find anything pertaining bypassing the tailgate key switch. After going through the wiring diagrams in the Chilton's it seems straight forward, but I still can't get it to work...
 

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Look behind the drivers side taillight-the harness to the tailgate has a connector there & the PO might have unplugged it as well as cut the wires to the switch inside the gate. If you can't splice the wires back together you will have to get one from a junk yard. And even if you can splice them, check the wires between the taillight & gate where they bend as you open & close the gate, they will break in that area too. The tailgate key switch & dash switch are connected for the ground to the circuit. The dash switch ground connection may be open due to burned contacts, which will keep the key switch from operating the window motor. It's a crazy circuit to work with. Just not having the gate fully closed will keep the window from operating, or the switch on the latch being out of adjustment just a little. It's not so bad after you rebuild a tailgate or two.
Also, I have a switch for the tailgate out of an early/mid 80's that the wires were broken in the area where they bend. I'm pretty sure they are the same for all years, and you can have this one if it will help.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
My key doesn't even fit in the tailgate (the PO re-keyed the truck but forgot the tailgate), so I have no use for the tailgate switch (if I had one). The PO just cut the old harness off, and ran the end of the wires into the tailgate and taped them off. The harness is gone, the switch is gone. He literally wired the yellow and red wires to a set of jumper cables, which requires you to stop, open the hood, and use the battery to open and close the window.

I was hoping to be able to wire the window without the tailgate harness and switch and use only the dashboard switch, and thus bypassing it with something less ghetto than the jumper cables. I want to be able to open/close the window without having to go from junkyard to junkyard in hopes to find one or drop a ton of $ trying to find one online.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I figured I should probably post some pics to show what I'm working with:

Inside the drivers side of the tailgate:


What's left of the old wiring harness (wires as described in the first post):


What's left of the latch switch wires:
 

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My key doesn't even fit in the tailgate (the PO re-keyed the truck but forgot the tailgate), so I have no use for the tailgate switch (if I had one). The PO just cut the old harness off, and ran the end of the wires into the tailgate and taped them off. The harness is gone, the switch is gone. He literally wired the yellow and red wires to a set of jumper cables, which requires you to stop, open the hood, and use the battery to open and close the window.

I was hoping to be able to wire the window without the tailgate harness and switch and use only the dashboard switch, and thus bypassing it with something less ghetto than the jumper cables. I want to be able to open/close the window without having to go from junkyard to junkyard in hopes to find one or drop a ton of $ trying to find one online.
I could be wrong and I am no auto electrician, but after looking at that site and understanding your in dash switch you should be able to get some auto grade wiring (even found at walmart) and run wires straight back underneath your truck or inside through yoru paneling. I believe that the wires come in from your power (the battery), and into the fuse box and then out of the fuse box to your switch and then back out of your switch to the back of the truck. I THINK...you should be able to look at that diagram that I sent you the link for and figure out which wires are hot going into the switch and not hot coming out. You can splice your new wires in at that point (remembering to cap off the hot wires coming in from the fust box so you dont short out your electrical system) and run your new wires to the back of the truck and directly into the motor. You may want to put an inline fuse in there in case they rub off insulation at a later date. Remember though that the motor then will only stop when you let off vs. before the window limit switch when depressed breaks the power going to the motor.

I also have a switch out of an old taligate that I can look into sending you. I'll give you the switch...you just cover the shipping. Keep in mind I'm in Alaska, but can get it in a flat rate shipping box for a flate rate. I have many other parts from the gates as I have dismantled 3 of them. I even have one switch with the key for it. PM me if you are interested. You should be able to take a new switch, and with some wire and connectors "build" a new wiring harness for your gate so it operates correctly. Let me know.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The challenging thing with the wiring for this is that the direction of the motor depends on the polarization of the wires. With it currently hooked up to the jumper cables if I connect red-red and black-black (on the battery), then the window goes up. But if I switch the cables to black-red and red-black, then the window goes down. You have to switch the wires from ground to hot depending on which way you want the window to go.

It's not like wiring something like the fog lights, where you have one wire always hot (with an on/off switch) and the other always ground.
 

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The challenging thing with the wiring for this is that the direction of the motor depends on the polarization of the wires. With it currently hooked up to the jumper cables if I connect red-red and black-black (on the battery), then the window goes up. But if I switch the cables to black-red and red-black, then the window goes down. You have to switch the wires from ground to hot depending on which way you want the window to go.

It's not like wiring something like the fog lights, where you have one wire always hot (with an on/off switch) and the other always ground.
Right...I believe the in dash switch does the switching of power and ground by rocking it up...to put window up, and down...to put the window down. Same with the key switch. I PM'd you back about those parts too.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yeah, I was thinking that because the dash switch had the rocker that I didn't need the tailgate switch and I could direct wire it. Unfortunately it just isnt working.
 

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Yeah, I was thinking that because the dash switch had the rocker that I didn't need the tailgate switch and I could direct wire it. Unfortunately it just isnt working.
My next guess would be a bad switch...I had no power once at the key, and come to find out, my switch was bad. I replaced the switch and it worked fine...if the switch is bad, the key switch in the gate wont work either due to the constant hot going from the dash switch to the in tailgate key switch. Check your switch...
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Bad switch or possible corroded/shorted wiring could be to blame too. I will try to rule those out tomorrow...
 

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The two purple wires are up & down, the two black are grounds. The dash & key switches reverse polarity to the motor. There is no "limit" or stop switch on the tailgate window. If you were to hold the switch long enough you would eventually burn out the motor or blow the fuse.
There is a mechanical link the window pushes down when you lower the glass, allowing the inside handle to operate, opening the gate. A lot of them have been bent or forced so that the handle operates anyway.
The "limit" switch on the latch is there to keep the window from being rolled up when the gate is open. Without the tailgate key switch I don't think it's possible to operate the motor in both directions because the ground is made from one side or the other, depending on which direction the dash switch is operated. (unless you physically move the wires) Either the red or yellow can be hot, the other must be ground.
My '79 is gutted right now, but I use it for storage of parts etc. I put a pair of wires into the plug going to the tailgate window motor, hung the other end of the wires outside & closed the tailgate. I use a cordless tool battery to open & close that window whenever I need to get into my "storage box".
If you can get down to the Springs sometime I will be glad to help with it. I try to go out to the Upull every week or two & if you want we could go find a switch & harness out there for a few bucks.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
From what I can tell, the grounds are only there in order to get the key switch to work, but wouldn't be needed if the key switch was removed, but I am probably wrong. I did fight with the wiring for the fog lights today for an hour only because I didn't have them properly grounded. I wired them 3 different times only to realize they were done right, I just didn't have a good enough ground established...

I might take you up on that offer for the Upull anyways since I'm looking for more than just these parts. I saw on their website the other day they have a '93 EB bronco there...
 

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Come on down, I'm "retired" so have a lot of free time to hunt parts & with 3 Broncos I spend a lot of time hunting them.
If you look at the wiring diagram for the tailgate window you will see the "ground" path actually goes thru the tailgate switch, there is no ground from the dash switch or motor. Some engineer at Ford probably had headaches for a long time figuring that circuit out. But it works, and from '78 to '96 very little change. PM me when you have a chance to come down, & I'll PM my cell #.
Charles
 

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http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7937

Do that^^


From relays:

Green to red with yellow stripe

Blue to yellow with red stripe.

This will bypass the missing switch. And will make the dash switch last longer.

Btw with out the key switch you have to use the relays.
 

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That might work without the key switch at all, but the cost of relays & wiring might be more expensive than a J/Y switch. Definitely more time consuming and no way to open the window from outside with an arm load of parts from the J/Y. I do like the idea of taking the load off the dash switch to prevent burned contacts, those switches are expensive.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Got it figured out. The harness that the dashboard switch plugs into was bad. Once I rewired that, the rest of the system worked fine. I guess you can bypass the tailgate key switch and liftgate switch, just connect the yellow to the purple/green and the red to the purple/blue.
 
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