[jermil01]

MLPS Upgrade and Replacement

Did a search and found 17 threads related to Manual Lever Position Sensor, or Neutral Safety Switch as they call them at parts houses, but didn't quite find what I was looking for.

Here's what happened, I went out for a dirve the other day maybe a 10 mile total round trip, the Bronco hadn't been driven in about three days. I'll pulled out on the road and hit the gas and it starts shifting funny like it wants to jump out of gear or shifting too soon, it was really strange and I'd never had anything like this happen before. The tranny was recently rebuilt and has less than 1000 miles on it, I checked the fluid and the level was good. When I got home I crawled underneath and checked the MLPS, it looks like one of the plastic clips used to hold the harness onto it had broken and it partially worked it's way loose. I reseated everything and drove it today and there doesn't seem to be any problem.

My question is, if this sensor is bad, what type of conditions can expect the tranny to exhibit? I know there are replacement kit's for these that upgrade them to the newer type, but will that replace the plug portion? Thanks.

 

[Steve83]

...if this sensor is bad, what type of conditions can expect the tranny to exhibit?

You must not have read the TSB thread. :deal

...replacement kit's for these that upgrade them to the newer type, but will that replace the plug portion?

Yes.

 

[jermil01]

Guess I didn't read far enough down in that that thread.. I finally saw it there on the second page. Looks like NAPA carries the updated replacement part I need for about $55 bucks. I'll be picking one of these up this week.

You must not have read the TSB thread. :dealYes.

 

[jermil01]

MPLS replacement/upgrade

So, I'm getting a code 634 (MLP sensor voltage out of self test range, A/C on), and before I go ahead and replace my current mlps and connector can you guys verify that this is the older style. From the looks of things this is the original one and it probably has over 200K miles on it. I'm 99% certain it is but just want to be sure before I buy a new one. Also, take a look at the second pic. It doesn't look like the connector is seating all the way into the mlps. I've pushed and can't get it to go any further. Guessing this won't matter when I replace with the newer style, but it got me thinking that this might be part of my problem. Thanks.

 

[miesk5]

yo J! That conn does appear to be the OEM version;
Here are pics of the "newer" type in "Connector Re-Pining; "...according to the connector instruction sheet that came with the new connector. wires positions by circuit # are exactly the same from old to new. there is no mention of wire color. the wires are designated by circuit # so basically one at a time take each wire out.... and put it in the same place it came out of on the new connector..."
by thePUNISHER (Paul) at FSB
Specifically;

 

[miesk5]

Can't recall if I mentioned this in the other thread;


Connector Pin-Out Diagrams
Source: by Ryan M (FireGuy50) at fordfuelinjection.com

 

[jermil01]

Thanks the diagrams are helpful..Went to NAPA earlier and picked up the new connector and sensor. $55 bucks.

New sensor

Front of connector

Back

Seems pretty straighforward, so I'm going to try to tackle it this afternoon.

 

[jermil01]

Just so I'm doing this correctly, I need to chock the wheels, put it in neutral and then remove the sensor, is that correct?

 

[jermil01]

What is the trick to getting these connectors to release..The instructions reference releasing the locking finger but I have no idea what that is and I don't want to bust any of these connectors. Found this thread http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/search.php?searchid=3141155&pp=20&page=2, but it doesn't say where they are should I take the look off the harness to do this?

 

[Jayrus]

The lock fingers should be between the center groove between the pins IIRC.I usually use a small stiff cotter pin to push the fingers towards the center to release the pins.

 

[El Kabong]

Iirc, it was a spring type clip that's a part of the pins. I think I used a jeweler's screwdriver alongside the pins to release them. I don't remember which side worked best, but one end was better. It seemed real tough until I found the right place for the screwdriver, then they popped out easily. Move them over one at a time to keep the order.

 

[jermil01]

MLPS Replacement

Thanks for all the input guys, I managed to get everything done.

(Before I got under the rig and did any work, I put it in neutral, engaged the emergency brake, and choked the wheels.)

It took some doing but I was finally able to get them out..There are little plastic tabs inside the connector that when pushed down release the pins. Anyway, here is the result of my work.

After disconnecting the harness, remove the two bolts 5/16 socket does the job.

Next remove the nut holding the shifter arm for the tranny. This was a 15 mm

It only took me a half hr of trying to do it on my back on a creeper before I decided to to just go ahead and remove the trannny access cover from inside the cab..If I had read the instructions a little more closely I would have noticed that it recommended doing that..

That made things so much easier..I removed the pins one at a time from the old connector being careful to keep every thing in order, then hooked them into the new plug.

It took some messing around, but I was finally able to get the lines lined up on the sensor. I used the shifter arm for the tranny and kept moving it until it was right..Here is the new MLPS installed. Hopefully it will be good for a while.

Inside shot of the old plug, when I pulled it off all kinds of dirt and crap fell out..I'm sure this was not functioning properly.

Old sensor ready for the trash.

In my haste I forgot to put dielectric grease on the terminals, but I'll go back and do that tomorrow. Was a little worried that I might not have messed up the wires, but I got in put it back in park and it started right up..I put it in reverse and drive and everything seems good. Tomorrow I'll go for a test drive.:beer

 

[jermil01]

Took the Bronco for a nice long drive this afternoon and I could tell immediately that the new MLPS made a difference. Seemed to shift better. Replacing it was definitely worth the money and the effort.

 

[jermil01]

Need Some help. Ever since I installed the new MLPS I've had a tough time shifting from drive into reverse. It's almost like it's not going easily from one gear to the other.

Today I figured I would take a look. Put my rig in neutral, blocked the wheels and put the emergency break on. Got under and removed the bolts holding the MLPS on and checked. Everything was lined up correctly and looked fine. Now here's where things got messed up. I'm not sure what I did when I put it back on but I can't get the tranny into park..For some reason, reverse on the column is now neutral..I have tried taking the cable off of the shifter on the tranny and then moving it to neutral on the column but the same thing happens. Every time I shift down from neutral to drive and back up again it won't go into neutral until I put the selector on reverse.

I've moved the shift selector back and forth on the tranny several times to make sure I have in neutral and I do, but when I go to engage the tranny from the column something throws it off. I'm beginning to wonder if there is something broken in the column. Any ideas??

 

[miesk5]

yo,
You prob do have somethAng worn/broken in column;

Shift Indicator Adjustment in 92-96
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
Steve wrote; "BEFORE BEGINNING, inspect items #26, 27, 28, & 34 in this diagram for looseness:

Items #26 & 34 are known to get loose; #28 is known to wear.
Items #19 & 25 are known to break, and Ford offers upgraded versions"
19 Column Shift Selector Lever Plunger 7361
25 Transmission Column Shift Selector Tube 7212
26 Screw, Shift Tube Clamp N806584
27 Gearshift Tube Clamp 7E400
28 Gearshift Lever Socket Bushing 7335
29 Transmission Shift Selector Position Insert 7A216 )
30 Screw, Actuator N806584
31 Shift Lock Actuator 3Z719
32 Shift Cable and Bracket 7E395 (Automatic Only)
33 Transmission Selector Lever Arm and Support 7302
34 Screws, Arm N806584

 

[jermil01]

Thanks that first link was a big help. I made the mistake trying to adjust it with the truck in neutral instead of drive. It's to the point now where if I take it out of park I can slide it all of the way through the gears on selector and its not moving the shift cable..I'm thinking the cable may be totally shot.. I wonder if there is a place I can order the parts to rebuild maybe rock auto.. I think it might not be a bad idea to do the column and the tranny shifter cable.

 

[jermil01]

Well no luck on Rock Auto or any of the Ford parts sites I've used in the past..anyone know of a source for these shift cables?

 

[jermil01]

Ok, I found this part # for the cable: YL8Z-7E395-BA

 

[miesk5]

yo,
ok, For New Motorcraft Parts; Troy Ford is a-OK! Have bought from them via AMAZON a few times; saved over $100.00 Plus 7% sales tax and had free S&H on 2 recent purchases

and they List it as;
Ford YL8Z-7E395-BA - CABLE ASY - SELECTOR
Buy new: $65.80 $59.22
In stock. Processing takes an additional 2 to 3 days. http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=me=A18G8GVWHHIMY9&field-keywords=YL8Z-7E395-BA&x=13&y=22

 

[jermil01]

Thanks..that was the first one I came across but didn't see any pics..When I get home tonight, I'm going to try to adjust the shift selector one more time..Although I'm pretty sure it won't do any good..The selector on the column works fine when not hooked to the tranny. It stops between each gear. Only when hooked to the tranny does it give me problems and it just slides once you get it out of park.. I'm guessing it is just finally worn out..