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Master Bater
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Discussion Starter #1
only found two threads on inverters, one of which was useless.
How much of an inverter does one really need. i have seen the summit catalog selling inverters where it tells you this many watts for that, but i am looking at adding one into the bronco as well as the new p/u. Costco is selling a 1000 watt inverter for like 70 bucks. not suyre the brand, but does it really matter.

Keith, I konw you have one and that there were several threads on bigbroncos years ago, but I have lost all that info. So anyone have some input on this?
 

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scrounger extrordinaire
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I guess it depends on what ya plan on using for? .. radio and fridge at camp? tools on the trail? ........... I have a 700 in my glovebox just for stuff for my kid on the trail, charging batteries, occasional saw/drill use ... a 1000 for $70 sounds like a great deal .. I would get it anyway
 

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scrounger extrordinaire
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is it a 1000 continuos, or 600 continous 1000 peak. you gotta look at the ratings to see whats up. if you have a trailer you might have a fridge. it would be nice if your going to be out longer than you have ice for. i use an electric impact and have yet to use my air impact. i would love to have it on the trail. its like anything else, once you have it, you will find other uses for it. AXE
 

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Master Bater
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Discussion Starter #5
in the bronco, it would mostly be used for recharging the dewalts and what ever else i may need to power on the trail.
In the p/u, it would be in the bed with the camper shell on it, so it would be used more often/harder. Lighting, maybe cooking stuff (blenders, etc) just depends how much the gf would require on my longer camping/fishing excursions. is there any reason I could not mount two inverters in the p/u off the same batt? Obviously I know nothing about electricity.
 

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in my grand scheme to get out changing heater core last year I was gonna use a small space heater and a hair dryer for a defroster .. it's a trail rig who cares? ... well I came to find that I needed 1400 watts to run either one of those piddly little things.
If I were you bro I would check out some of the items you plan on using and see what you need. The chargers will draw low but other items be a surprise to you .. check the blender etc

as for running two? .. I would rather have ONE beefy one .. that way you will be plenty safe
 

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OUT OF BUSINESS / M.I.A.
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I would think about dual batteries and possibly a low battery alarm if you plan of using it over night. Or maybe a car starter that kicks in when the coltage drops to a certian point. I would not get 2 inverters. I verts are bastard toys. When converting they make a sine wave, 2 inverters connected to geather might have oposing sine waves. Not sure what that might do, but it doesn't sound good to me.

Like Damager said, 1000 for $70 sounds good, but you might need a lot more.
 

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Master Bater
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Discussion Starter #8
hmm,
I guess I might just get the 1000w for the bronco and do something else for the truck. I was not going to wire them together, just have one on either side of the bed, with a all weather socket in the bumper or something for running stuff on the exterior.

Does anyone know of a good chart for powering different stuff?
 

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College User
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Most invertors come with them so check websites. Also both in invertors have low battery alarms.
 

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press ALT+F4
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Another thing to consider is the quality of the power. This is because some devices you want to run may need a true sine wave type inverter to run without building up heat. You might check with the manufacturers of the appliances or an RV site to get some ideas.
 

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The sine wave inverters are big $$$$, the ones you are looking at are modified sine wave (like 1/2 of a sine wave). The quality inverters are also $$$, and there are only a couple of companies making them. Tripp-lite is probably the best one out there, although I think they merged with another company and changed their name. I paid ~ $1500 for the 2000 watt Tripp lite inverter I used in my big truck (powered my microwave/computer/rechargers/etc), and had two batteries installed strictly to power the inverter.
 

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hates EVERYTHING!
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Well judgeing from the chart Axe posted I would want a big inverter...I think. Hey, what size you runnin' and what kinda stuff can ya operate with it???
 

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scrounger extrordinaire
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i did post a link with a chart. that will tell you how much you need. i dont have one yet, i dont know what i will need it for. i think either enough to power my electric impact or charge the battery of a 19.2v cordless impact that harbor has. that and i did see an article in a mag. they had a little generator that powered one of them dual halogen lights that has a stand and case. really handy if you were out at night like they were. first figure out what you need or want on the trail. then look at the chart and see what you need for wattage. the guy says to add up what you will have running and get 20%-35% more than that. at some point a portable generator for $450 is going to be a more efficient way to get 5000w than an inverter.
 

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Damon, I've got the Statpower............Statpower 1000 or something. Hell, I can't remember I've had it for 4 years or more now.

Anyway, I can't say it sees a ton of use but I've always been happy with it.

It's actually 800W or 7amps continuous, 1000W sustained (for 5 minutes) and 2000W surge. It was around $300 from JCW. It does seem inverters have come down in price over the years, but always be leary of the cheaper ones (Vector and Coleman for example).

Virtually everything that plugs into the wall has a power requirement rating stamped right on it.........take a look at anything in your house, the back of your TV, monitor, printer, and all your power tools will tell you what they draw. It's kinda fun........................if you have no life like me.

As I'm sure you know watts divided by volts (110 or 120 in this case) = amps

or amps x 115 (average) = watts

It's late, hoped I typed that right.

I'm real happy with mine, I couldn't see wanting more considering how little I use it AND price shoots up sharply to get a larger *quality* unit, at least it did when I was looking.

7A will run most cheaper grinders, virtually all 3/8" drills but not as many 1/2", lower end Sawzalls (Milwaukee makes models from 6A all the way to 11 or 12A), etc. TV's only draw a couple hundred watts. One of our favorites on long trips and while camping in the truck is to use a heating pad, it only pulls 50W (less than .5 amp) but it's SOOO nice since we both have lower back problems.

When the truck's off the inverter just pulls from my deep cycle, so we can run it while camping without worry.

As Ryan said you can't hook two inverters together (not that you were gonna try) 'cause the "waves" won't be in sync.

As for true sine wave, break out the checkbook..........you could buy a Dynarape axle for what those cost. Some laptops, etc *may* require them.... but BoulderBronco ran his laptop off my inverter in Moab no problems. Charged his laptop battery too and Dave Young charged a couple DeWalt batteries. So unless you're gonna regularly be dealing with sensitive equipment true sine wave is probably unnecessary.

As I once mentioned in another thread, I dunno if the amps translate straight thru from 110 (the inverter) to 12V (your vechicle)... but I believe they do, meaning when you're pulling 7A from the inverter the inverter's pulling the equivalent of 70A (10x that amount to go from 12V to 120) from your vehicle. I'm sure that's not worded correctly from the point of view of an EE, but *I think* that's the general idea. You're not getting the voltage increase for free, it's pulling a good deal on your vehicle's system... I'm just not certain if it's _exactly_ as I state here.

Step up to the larger inverters which can produce up to 3000W and you see you're nearing the draw of a winch.........which is something you won't be doing for very long with or without the vehicle running and charging.

blah blah blah
 

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For the money, large inverter needs, look into an on-board-welder / alternator combo which has a 120 outlet. those can put out the watts and are much better with the alt designed for it.

If I have lots of time on my hands and had fab skills like raf or keith, I'd buy a used 2cycle generator. rip it's guts out and make it belt driven. :rockon that would be a cool trick. Get a big enough used generator and you could mount it on a gumpy F350 tow vehicle, then power the house off the tow vehicle.
Now I'm dreaming or stupid crap to play with when I have time to be bored :brownbag

Firetrucks have 4 cycle generator mounted on-board, and they run off the main gas tank. Just another idea if you have a dedicated trail / camping rig

I'll stop now :slap
 

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TTB Hater of course
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Fireguy50 said:
For the money, large inverter needs, look into an on-board-welder / alternator combo which has a 120 outlet. those can put out the watts and are much better with the alt designed for it.
Ryan, IIRC the only catch with those is that they put out 110V DC, which is why you have to run variable speed power tools at full throttle or nothing, or you'll burn them up. I don't understand exactly why that is, we're already stretching my limited understanding of electricity.

I suppose it's not a big deal, just don't feather the trigger of a Sawzall or drill......now for drilling it could be a problem since high speeds toast bits.
 

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press ALT+F4
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Keith: Most power tool motors are called universal motors. They work on AC or DC. The new style solid state variable speed triggers aren't designed for DC speed control.
Just some useless electrical info.
 

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Master Bater
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Discussion Starter #19
sorry Axe, missed your link.

I guess i am going to try the cheap one from costco. At least in the bronco, I hink my usadge would be real similar to Keiths. then maybe i would consider a honda generator or something for the pickup. thanks for all the info, even tho I only understood half of it. :banghead
 
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