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Discussion Starter #1
Whats up I have a 91 EB and I just moved to NC Im wondering if i can pull the air pump off and still pass inspection? Also wondering what r some easy ways to make more power?
 

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Poke a hole in a small propane tank and stick it in your air box... easiest way to 400+ horsepower.

No, you cannot pull your air pump off and still pass inspection. Contrary to what some one-tooth backwoods shadetree mechanic told you, the AIR pump's drag on your engine draws <.1 horsepower, and should be left alone unless it seizes up.
 

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Satyr of the Midwest
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:stupid Leave the air pump alone. It draws as much power as an idler pulley, and you'll NEVER pass a visual inspection without it.

Search here on FSB for advice on making power, but know that making a LOT more power costs a LOT of money. Start with tune-up stuff, work your way up to upgrading fluids and taking care of other maintenance items like alignment, etc.

What's your experience? I'm guessing not much, but correct me if I'm wrong.
 

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Intake
Exhaust
Camshaft

Search and find a plethora of info.
 

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Former North Carolinian here. Yes, you can pass w/out the smog pump, egr or any of the other emmissions equiptment, with the possible exception of a visible cat. converter. NC only emmissions tests '96 and up, ie. OBD2. Anything '95 or older gets a "Safety Inspection" which at any typical Jiffy Lube means Brake lights, Horn operation, Running/Headlights and turn signals. Takes them 5 min. tops, and the price is fixed by the State @ 9 dollars and change, as opposed to the OBD2 and up inspection which leaves the price up to what the market will bear. The chances of them even bothering to open the hood are slim to none,(I had my '88 Bko registered in NC for 12 years, and not once did ANY inspection outfit from Wilmington to Raleigh ever lift the hood...) and they would have NO idea what they were looking at/for anyway, because they don't have a computer to tell them what to look for in the first place. If they can't jack your ride into the NC DMV data base(which they have no way to do with a pre-OBD2 vehicle) they pretty much leave you alone.
Robb
 

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Smog pump creates very little drag on the engine, removing it will do nothing for performance. The generally-accepted opinion here is to not remove it unless tis bad, as tis supposed to help the cats do their job so it kinda-sorta-maybe helps keep pollution levels down. However there's also the fact that most (if not all) newer vehicles do NOT have a smog pump or anything even remotely resembling one, and there are plenty of Mustang guys passing sniffer test without smog pumps but with properly tuned engines (those usually run SEFI tho, not the batch fire BS trucks have). But like it was said before, if your state requires underhood visual inspection you have to keep it, no way around that. Bottom line do whatever you want (or can get away with) with the pump, for easy real power get better exhaust and better cam, and probably recurve the dizzy too. Different gears in the axles may also help.
 

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\The generally-accepted opinion here is to not remove it unless tis bad, as tis supposed to help the cats do their job so it kinda-sorta-maybe helps keep pollution levels down.]
It's required for the older style cats that came from the factory on our trucks... the extra atmospheric air in the stream is what helps the reaction start and continue inside the cat.

If you remove the air pump, more then likely if your stock cats are still doing their jobs fine, you'll end up damaging them.

The newer exhaust systems all use the later style three way cats, that do not require the extra oxygen in the exhaust stream to function correctly. Thus, they don't need the air pumps. I've got a newer three way style cat on my truck that doesn't need the air pump, but I left the smog pump on anyways because it still works fine, and there's no reason to remove it.
 

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It's required for the older style cats that came from the factory on our trucks... the extra atmospheric air in the stream is what helps the reaction start and continue inside the cat.

If you remove the air pump, more then likely if your stock cats are still doing their jobs fine, you'll end up damaging them.
On a truck, when is the air pumped by the pump diverted to just vent in the engine bay? SEFI cars ('86 and up) do this within about 10 minutes of starting the engine, pretty much when the engine is all warmed up - ECM changes the voltage on one of the solenoids, the solenoid changes the vacuum signal to the main diverter valve (the big one right behind the air pump), the valve closes off the exhaust air supply lines and opens up the vent so all the air coming from the pump just blows off through the vent, hence the very specific "shwoosh" sound coming from the engine at high rpms. Do trucks ever do that, or do they blow air through the cats all the time?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
What i know

I know quit a bit but im new to this area Sanford and didnt know how strickt the inspection was. Thank for everyones help.:rockon
 
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