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Discussion Starter #1
Just a quick update for anyone who cares:

'95 5.8FI and C6 are in. Waiting on new bolts and body mount hardware at this point. Front clip is off, can't run wires to front with the panels missing. New seats and carpet as soon as above mentioned body mount hardware gets here.

Attempt to locate the computer inside the truck failed. Wiring harness isn't long enough and concerns of splicing that many wires stopped us. I'll be looking for a weatherproof box to put the CPU in inside the engine bay.

Have to replace a bunch of vacuum lines. Started pricing tires, closed the tire page in shock. Will get back to that when the shock of what I've paid to get to this point has worn off.

Told wife again, how this is cheaper than buying the new truck that would make me forget about this project.
 

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Love the "at war" style of writing that you have. But I need to wonder, if you cant find the in cab computer, how did you do the rest of the work? Seems like it is something really simple and you are doing complex things. Its like saying you took a leak then mentioning you cant open your fly.
 

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He's saying he tried to put the new computer in the cab but the harness was too short.

Justin
 

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Maybe he didn't want to use the old harness for the headaches incurred by using one that had a computer controlled trannyand didn't want any check lights?? Just a thought. As far as the waterproof box is concerned, I would think any marina could hook you up with something... Good luck though...
 

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'94, '92, '88, and '84 Broncos
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Wait, what exactly are you doin' again? What computer are you using to run the fuel injection? Is it for a manual tranny truck so no CE lights come on from using a C6?

Adrianspeeder
 

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Attempt to locate the computer inside the truck failed. Wiring harness isn't long enough and concerns of splicing that many wires stopped us. I'll be looking for a weatherproof box to put the CPU in inside the engine bay.
:rofl:

I would recommend you mount the CPU where it was designed to be mounted. Inside the passenger compartment.

Mounting the CPU in the engine bay INSIDE another box will subject it to temperatures it was not designed to operate in.

Think about putting your desktop computer inside an oven, then wondering why it died. :twak

But, your project, mount it where you want.

Cheers

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The 5.8 came out of a 95 F150, I got the complete motor and the harness. I'm not worried about a transmission check engine light, since there will be no 'check engine' light on my dash. I just thought putting a newer FI engine in would give me more reliable power over the long run.

We ran the harness and came up short to where we wanted to put the computer. It's not mounted yet, we just laid the wiring harness over the motor where we guesstimated it would end up, so anything is possible. The real brains behind the project is concerned that splicing wires could cause impedance issues with the stock wiring harness, then again, no light to worry about as long as it runs fine.

BTW: To take a leak without unbuttoning your fly....wear pants loose enough to pull down. Anyone who's ever worn a cheap police type uniforms would know that. Stupid zipper gets caught all the time, pop keepers, yank pants.
 

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So long as any splices are silver soldered you won't have to worry about the increased resistance. Remember, the "proper" resistance for any sensor isn't one value, it's a range.

Adding a couple feet of wire will be fine so long as you don't put your sensors out of range (which if you use properly gauged wires and good assmebly techniques there is no way you'll put the sensors out of range).

Justin
 

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Well, Impedance is usually applied to the resistance to AC current only. In this application the closest thing we come to AC is the signals to the injectors. Even the injectors is closer to pulsed DC since the signal to the injectors would be viewed as a square wave on an o'scope and AC would show as a pure sine wave. Get yourself a GOOD wire crimper like these you will find at waytek wire

I have found that GOOD crimps are better than soldering. I've been wire and connector repair certified my the US Navy, and certified to solder to the J-STD level for aerospace work. We used barrel crimps and environmental splice to do our splices. Aerospace requirements prohibit soldering to splice wires due to the vibration fatigue at the joint where the solder ends.

If you think about the solder splice as a solid wire, then you flex or vibrate the wire a little, and you find all the flex occurs at the point there is no solder. makes a nice point to concentrate all the wire flex at one point.

Hope this helps

Cheers

Steve
 

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We used barrel crimps and environmental splice to do our splices.
This is key here, if you do crimp be sure to use the glue impregnated heat shrink. Without it the crimp will corrode and get all goofy on you. That's why i like silver solder for typical applications, it won't corrode even if exposed.

Justin
 

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oh, man. you HAVE to keep the weather out of a crimp. in emergency spots, I've even been known to use dielectric grease in a normal crimp. lasts a bit longer than without, but still develops problems after a while.

I would still back up the solder joints to prevent any flex. that is where problems would develop in an otherwise good joint.

the point is Crimps done well are good connections. Solder done well is a good connection. The whole meat of the matter is to do the joints WELL.

Cheers

Steve
 

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the point is Crimps done well are good connections. Solder done well is a good connection. The whole meat of the matter is to do the joints WELL.

Cheers

Steve
:beer

Amen to that. I solder then use plain heat shrink, you crimp and use fancy heat shrink. both do the same thing in the end :thumbup

Justin
 
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