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aka: kemicalburns
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Discussion Starter #1
Update:: Rebuilt motor back from Machine shop

I recently went on a wheeling trip to the Christmas Valley Dunes here in central Oregon. now these dunes are more of an Ash/sand fines type material that was deposited from some of the volcanoes. this is way different then what you would find at pismo or the oregon dunes which is much grainier.

this material has found its way into my drivers side valve cover/Head. from what i can tell it either got past the oil fill cap or thru the valve cover tube that runs over to the stock airbox. I inspected the air box and found no signs of sand and that tube does have a small filter on it inside the airbox which again looked ok. i pulled the valve cover and found some of this material sitting in the groove near the gasket matting surface of the head. the rockers and such didnt show any signs of the material on them which was promising.

so being this type of material when it gets wet it turns to a mud almost, so i am hoping that it has simply clogged the pump and didnt travel any further thru the motor. i was also running fresh oil/filter a day or two before the trip if this even makes a difference.

so on to my thoughts. i have not run the motor since discovering this, i do have a drop in oil pressure and some light tapping at idle and some noise at 2000+rpms while in park. I am going to pull the passenger side valve cover and upper/lower intake to see if any of this material made its way to these areas of the engine. I was then going to flush the motor with Diesal fuel, replace the oil pump and oil filter and then button it back up and run some Delo 15w40 or 20w30. money is tight so if i can pull this off and not have to rebuild the motor that would be ideal.

so do you guys feel this is a worth while attempt.
Thanks
 

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MARBLE GARGLER!
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11,877 Posts
What does the motor oil itself look like ? Take the oil filter off and cut it apart to look for contaminents. A race shop will have a cutter and will prollt do it for free-
 

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aka: kemicalburns
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7,830 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
have not looked at the oil as of yet.
 

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Premium Member
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168 Posts
hopefully it didn't make it down and score the mains. I would definitely drain the oil and flush it before running it any more, take off both valve covers and clean everything out of there before flushing, just to cut down on the amount of junk going down the oil passages, you don't want to plug one of them things off.
 

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Satyr of the Midwest
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How much of a pressure drop are we talking about here?
 

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aka: kemicalburns
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7,830 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
the oil pressure drop is based off the stock gauge in my 94.

i will pull the other valve cover tonight and see whats under there. i will also drain the oil and and remove the oil filter tonight. if there isnt any material present under that pass side valve cover i think i may be in the clear. does flushing with diesal sound good still? should i still plan on replacing the oil pump?
 

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aka: kemicalburns
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7,830 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
well i drained the oil and it looked awful. was a dark grey and had some texture to it. I have the motor out and on a stand. I am struggling to get the crank bolt off. does it loosen clock wise or counter clock wise. i have a feeling my half inch impact wont get it off either.

also what size allen to remove the oil cooler. a 14mm is to big
 

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As far as the crank pulley bolt, it is a standard thread. It will loosen counter clockwise. When I pulled the bolt on my '82 doing a timing chain I had to use a half inch drive ratchet with a cheater bar and a chain wrench on the pulley with a cheater bar. I thought for sure the son of a gun was gonna break!
 

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so on to my thoughts. i have not run the motor since discovering this, i do have a drop in oil pressure and some light tapping at idle and some noise at 2000+rpms while in park. I am going to pull the passenger side valve cover and upper/lower intake to see if any of this material made its way to these areas of the engine. I was then going to flush the motor with Diesal fuel, replace the oil pump and oil filter and then button it back up and run some Delo 15w40 or 20w30. money is tight so if i can pull this off and not have to rebuild the motor that would be ideal.

so do you guys feel this is a worth while attempt.
Thanks
that might do the trick actually*
that would be my best bet get the intake machined while you're at it as well- it may only cost about $60 the most and improves your engine lifetime too
 

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aka: kemicalburns
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7,830 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
the crank and rod bearings are scored. some minor scoring in the piston walls.the cam also shows some scaring. further investigation of the airbox shows this is point of entry. that little filter below the main intake filter showed sand in it and some in that tube that runs over to the driver side valve cover.

rebuilding this motor may cost the same as buying a reman so i may go that route. any recommendations for a reman? I need to stay in the $1500 if at all possible.
 

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no rebuild, just machine shop it bro,
clean it, repair/replace what need to be replaced and thats all you need, Clay Smith Cams sell what you need (everything you need friend), and the machine shop the rest and if you have a wholesale license (I do) it comes out MUCH cheaper than reg price. you dont even need to buy more than what you need (like you do when you have a license) and getting a license is like $18 here in cali so im sure its cheaper there*
 

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aka: kemicalburns
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7,830 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
taking it to the machine shop today. will know more in a few days if crank needs turned and what needs done with the block. heads will be cleaned up also.
 

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aka: kemicalburns
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7,830 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
well the crank will need turned for sure according to the machinest. the roller cam appeared to be salvageable and wouldnt need turned so this may save me some cash. unsure just yet if the block will only need a hone or a bore at this point. or what the heads will run to be freshened up.
 

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aka: kemicalburns
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7,830 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
because i have called around and nobody has a roller cam motor. I refuse to install and older 5.8 into my 94. I have found an F4 block that just popped up on Craigslist for 200 bones. will be checking it out tonight.
 

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Errrrrrrrr...why do you have to have a roller block? Stick the cheap one in until you have the funds and then rebuild the other one so you can. Priorities I guess? Good luck with the one on the cheap.

SWS
 

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aka: kemicalburns
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7,830 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
not my primary rig so i am lucky there. funds well it is what it is ya know.
 
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