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FWIW, I didn't have any issues with needing to raise my fan shroud after installing the JBG mounts.
I had to adjust mine all the way up, and then it wouldn't slide into the clips at the bottom so its held with a zip tie.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
The "Eagle" Mounts from Amazon fit.
Had to grind a tiny bit of a corner on the RH mount where it was hitting the bulge of the engine block where the block drain plug is. Other than that they fit good.

Finish up adding washers to my bolt / chain set up, tighten everything down, then go ahead and install new battery cables / wiring then drop the engine.
 

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I'd have your tires checked first..
Between me and both of my mechanics we’ve checked everything imaginable. Tires, bearings, even changed a hub, two rebuilt driveshafts, ring and piñon, alignment, and still have noise to a roar coming from the front right side.
 

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95 5.8L MAF XLT, Hedman Shorties/MF SS Y & Muff, E4OD, Man hubs, KYB Quads, 31x10.5x15, 301K miles
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When you changed your Bearing did you also replace the Bearing Race? I had a shop change my front bearings and didn't replace the Races. They installed National bearings into my previous Timken races. I had a roaring noise from my frontend after that, the original noise was still there plus the new noise. So I had to do all the work over again to find out that info and correct it all myself and the previous noise that was coming from the rear-end. Just a thought!
 

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When you changed your Bearing did you also replace the Bearing Race? I had a shop change my front bearings and didn't replace the Races. They installed National bearings into my previous Timken races. I had a roaring noise from my frontend after that, the original noise was still there plus the new noise. So I had to do all the work over again to find out that info and correct it all myself and the previous noise that was coming from the rear-end. Just a thought!
Good point. Yes the bearings and races were actually changed twice with national bearings. Previous ones were timken. It was discovered that the right race had spun a little in the hub. I think the next time around I’m going to use Koyo bearings made in Japan. I believe Ford uses them now.
 

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Koyo bearings made in Japan
i realize front and rear bearings are different parts so they could be made in different locations but...my rear wheel bearings are koyo made in the US.

but if you used timken and national and are seeing the same symptoms, i'd be surprised if they are the source of your problem..
 

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Late to the party (as usual), but wanted to add a bit more on the JBG mounts. No issues with the increased height, but one side did require a bit of grinding to fit, so not necessarily a drop-in, but nothing insurmountable.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
These:


They worked. Fit well actually. One small edge right - interfered with the "bulge" in the engine block casting where the block drain plug is. It took 15 minutes with a cut off wheel on a Dremel to get it straight. Both mounts interfered in the same spot - so they at least were identical unlike the other I tried.

163693
 

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1996 Bronco 5.0/E4OD/BW1356
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Once you get a set that fits make them last forever, grind that crap rivet out of them and bolt them together. I've got a set of extreme mounts on the shelf because they didn't fit in my first gen, stockers with a bolt and holding strong 8 years and counting on a trail rig. Without the bolt they only last a hill or two, it's pathetic. How are two pieces of metal bonded with rubber supposed to keep a motor in place...
 

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U-joint is usually the issue with drivetrain vibrations. The u-joints are inexpensive and driveshafts are easy to remove.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
JBG just has them drop shipped from Solo.
So does Solo make a cheaper pair - the type they ship to JBG? $80+ is a big difference on price
 

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So does Solo make a cheaper pair - the type they ship to JBG? $80+ is a big difference on price
That's some expensive powder coating!

I disassembled and hit the JBG's with some gloss VHT black, then baked them in a toaster oven...
 

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'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" on 33's
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Damn. I was hoping to find a resolution here. Fought all day long trying to get Dad's 400 back into his '78 and even with the transmission completed bolted flush, the motor mount bolts are still 1.5" too far forward. When I first installed them, I had to grind that corner edge and they would only go on one way (not reversible or flip-able) but they looked like a match to the OEM's when I tossed the old ones. Damn RockAuto's cheap Chines garbage (Anchor brand, linked in Dad's engine thread). Guess I'm going to have to order those JBG ones and cross my fingers I don't have to pull the engine completely again to swap 'em out. What a freakin' nightmare. Appreciate everyone's input though.
 

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Agree I also have the solo ones, straight from deolate or solo. I measured mine and everything came out the same before/after on my install. Not saying JBG gets different ones but it sure seems like they powerder coat the "good" ones. Wondering if JBG actually sells an old batch, while if you get the coated ones, they are of a new revision, the coating being how they tell them apart easily.

Pepe' have your tried going the other way in which you would bolt the mount to the engine while installing, instead of the frame? 1-1/2 is a lot though. I have their extreme 429/460 mounts in my 78, no issues there.

I agree on swapping the rivet for a bolt. Have band-aided few sets of failing stockers in this manner on street only trucks I have had that were not worth swapping in new mounts.
 
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