I ♥ TTB
Mines just bolted right through the top on 4" pads... Hasn't leaked, holds my 39.5" spare, and I've used it to lift the top off with a hoist... :beer
Here’s what mine looked like when I did it a while back. A stock rack from a 2005 Suburban, trimmed for length and put back in the same “feet.” And yes, spread the weight around - I had 6 feet on the rack, and the front and back feet were about 1.5” x 8” and the middle feet along the side were about 1.5” x 5”. Bought on local ad for $25, then I put on a fresh coat of black paint. I kinda want to find one just like it for my new rig, I like how it looks almost factory.
Interesting... I don't think I've seen an Avalanche at the local yard, but looking up pics (tough to find good ones), it appears they have three feet per rail, with the middle one centered? That would make for an advantageous starting point if sticking with three feet.I just picked up the same rack from a same gen Avalanche - no length trimming needed at all - it already fit perfectly!
Already did. I used the original end pieces to recreate the bolt hole and clip slot where I shortened it to. That's why I was saying I only cut the excess length off the front...recreating the rear foot's mounting holes is more complicated.On the front of those rails, you may want to drill out the metal rails so that the little plastic tab will “clip” into the metal rail. If you don’t, the only thing holding the rail in the foot is the top edge of the hole where the rail goes into the foot. Just adds a tiny bit more security.
Good, my work here is done! Actually, my work here really is done... I finished up my install this morning and just got the pics processed and uploaded. Let me just say that my approach most definitely is not the least labor intensive one, but hopefully the outline will highlight areas where other people can improve upon certain steps.
That definitely has potential, although I don't trust myself to exit the procedure with all ten fingers (and toes) intact. The softer material would help it compress to the curve of the roof.I was thinking of getting some of these rubber washers and cutting a bevel to one side with a sharp razor blade. Slap on a fender washer on the flat part, bevel side to the inner curved area, and nylock nuts to hold it all together.
I used these rubber nuts when I was fabricating the hard fiberglass saddlebags on my softail. not only do they seal the holes up really well... the also isolated the fiberglass against all the vibration, so the holes are less likely to crack or spread over time. Been running 'em in that configuration for decades and they've worked perfectly.
Not sure how your bolt up situation lays out with those rails but I thought that might give you another solid option to consider. :thumbup
... unless it's sliding down the road on it's top, in a flood.