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Some times I go start my 93 Bronco and its like the battery's dead nothing comes on but I move the shift lever a little bit and everything comes on and it starts. What would cause that?
 

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Just a guess, but I would say your MLPS is out of whack. I can't remember what the whole acronym is for right now, but it is basically your neutral safety switch (amongst other things). It's mounted on the transmission, right behind the linkage arm--thats why the truck will start when you nudge the shifter. The bolt holes on the switch allow for slight rotational adjustment, so you just need to tweak it a little.

There is a set procedure for doing so IIRC, Steve83 may have it on his Stupormotors page; not sure
 

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Same here that was what caused it. I have a new one on and it still does it here and there. Just like when I back up I have to get it right or my back up lights dont come on. Oh well better then having to crank in neutral.
 

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green ones make me horny
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i think it is probably your shift lever being out of whack. thats just me though
 

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Check for codes......if it is your MLPS there will be a code stored for it.
 

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I've had that happen twice. You can't start your truck in reverse, so it's being sensed that it's in reverse. So, I'm with them.
 

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Finally, other people with the same problem as mine. I have an 86 and I have to push up on the column shifter to start. A year ago I had the E4OD rebuilt and I mentioned that thinking maybe the shifting arms were not aligned. I would have thought the neutral safety switch would have been replaced when they rebuilt the tranny ($1,300.00 but did a great job) no? Is this MLPS mentioned in the Haynes Book and is it a simple adjustment to correct this?, don't want to make it worse! Thanks and Happy New Year to everyone.
 

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arnoldwiltz said:
...its like the battery's dead ...but I move the shift lever a little bit and everything comes on...
The MLPS won't interfere with anything but cranking - if you have NO power until you jiggle the shifter, you have a problem at the ignition switch (pink pointer).



There's a logic table in the back of the Haynes manual for it.
 

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Steve83 said:
The MLPS won't interfere with anything but cranking - if you have NO power until you jiggle the shifter, you have a problem at the ignition switch (pink pointer).



There's a logic table in the back of the Haynes manual for it.
Hi Steve.....I dont want to sound like a jerk, but exactly what is a logic table? I just looked in the back of my Haynes, and didnt see anything with that title???
 

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If you have the light blue cover, it's on p.12-8, figure 10.4b. It's not set up like a "table", but it still qualifies. If you want to see one that IS set up right, flip to p.12-10, figure 11.1; they call it a "continuity chart".
 

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Steve83 said:
If you have the light blue cover, it's on p.12-8, figure 10.4b. It's not set up like a "table", but it still qualifies. If you want to see one that IS set up right, flip to p.12-10, figure 11.1; they call it a "continuity chart".
Thanks, and Yes I have the light blue one.........and it was exactly where you said it would be. They have quite a bit of quality info in there!
 

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Make sure the shift linkage on the steering column(the lever that the shift cable is attached to,there are 2 screws the hold the lever to the shift tube)is tight,if this comes loose then the shift linkage won't push the lever on the transmission quite far enough to put the MLPS into the park position.
 

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Gee, I can't believe that entire thing fits in the steering column! In order to change the ignition switch I need to drop the steering column or take the steering wheel off ?

Any idea what the switch costs for 86 FSB? Thanks!
 

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An '86 switch & column are totally different, but no, you don't need to drop the column on any year to change the ig.sw.
 

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my shifter slips inbetween park and reverse- i just have to pop it back into park. but my lights and radio come on... so it could be a deeper problem.
ace
 

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You can replace the ignition switch without removing the wheel.

Disconnect the battery.

Put your key in the switch, and turn it to run.

On the bottom of the steering column, there is a small hole near the
keyswitch. Put a stiff piece of wire, or a small screwdriver in there, and
you'll find a small button on the bottom of the keyswitch. Push the
button in while gently pulling on the body of the switch. It'll slide right
out.

Installation, just put the key in, turn to run, push in the button by hand,
and slide the switch back in. Turn it back to off and take the key out
to lock it in.
 

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sewiv
You're describing the LOCK CYLINDER - he's asking about the IGNITION SWITCH. And on pre-'92 non-tilt columns, you DO have to pull the wheel to release the lock.

J
You don't have to pull the wheel to get to the switch, on any year. Just look above the pedals. You can pull the knee bolster to make it easier, but the switch is attached to the side of the column tube (11572 below). It's easy to break part of the connector when you unplug it, so be careful. But even broken, it still works fine.



I notice now that you mentioned getting an E4OD rebuilt - that can't be on your '86, right? AFAIK, E4OD wasn't offered until '87.
 

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Yeah my 86 has an E4OD electric overdrive that kicks in at 55 mph there's a white box around 55 on the speedometer. It's also listed in the Hyanes book. OK I located the 11572 part.
Thanks
 

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The white box around "55" on the speedo has nothing to do with the trans, and OD can be engaged at almost any speed. What's the TRANS code from your door sticker, how many bolts does your trans pan have, what does your shift indicator show, and do you have an "O/D OFF" button on the dash somewhere?
 
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