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Discussion Starter #1
So I've done the Sixlitre ignition upgrade and timing bump, repacked the front bearings with synthetic, replaced the front calipers and pads, added a cooler and external filter and done a fluid/internal filter change on the E4OD, and now I've swapped in the Catco 3903 single cat Y-pipe.

I started at 13 MPG. Ignition, bearings, and brakes took me to 14. I swapped the Y-pipe two days ago, and yesterday I drove 169 miles across the state at a steady 75 MPH, with my normal load of tools and fluids (probably 200 pounds), and a full tank of 87.

<drumroll>

15.5 MPG :thumbup

I'm happy. I put the 3G alt on already, so I'm almost ready to switch to the Mark VIII fan, just need to buy some relays and switches. And a new radiator, since mine is leaking.

I'm also going to switch the front and rear diffs and t-case to synthetic, and after I replace the oil pan/pump/pickup/gasket, I'll switch the engine to synthetic as well. I'm not putting $5/quart oil in something that leaks as much as this does.

(I know I'd save even more if I drove slower, but I don't want to. It's boring. I'd rather wrench.)

My butt-dyno says that it's got more power now as well. I know it's staying in OD on inclines that used to drop it to 3rd. That's probably where most of my savings are coming from, more time in OD.
 

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Practicing Infidel
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sewiv said:
So I've done the Sixlitre ignition upgrade and timing bump, repacked the front bearings with synthetic, replaced the front calipers and pads, added a cooler and external filter and done a fluid/internal filter change on the E4OD, and now I've swapped in the Catco 3903 single cat Y-pipe.

I started at 13 MPG. Ignition, bearings, and brakes took me to 14. I swapped the Y-pipe two days ago, and yesterday I drove 169 miles across the state at a steady 75 MPH, with my normal load of tools and fluids (probably 200 pounds), and a full tank of 87.

<drumroll>

15.5 MPG :thumbup

I'm happy. I put the 3G alt on already, so I'm almost ready to switch to the Mark VIII fan, just need to buy some relays and switches. And a new radiator, since mine is leaking.

I'm also going to switch the front and rear diffs and t-case to synthetic, and after I replace the oil pan/pump/pickup/gasket, I'll switch the engine to synthetic as well. I'm not putting $5/quart oil in something that leaks as much as this does.

(I know I'd save even more if I drove slower, but I don't want to. It's boring. I'd rather wrench.)

My butt-dyno says that it's got more power now as well. I know it's staying in OD on inclines that used to drop it to 3rd. That's probably where most of my savings are coming from, more time in OD.

That's good news Sewiv

That works out to a 19.23% increase in mileage (at 75mph).

Slow down a few mph and watch that mileage jump !

Sixlitre
 

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i get 200 miles to the TANK! omg im screwd...
 

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1clean5.8 said:
I get 200 Miles outta a 1/2 tank now.
That's pretty darn good. When I was setting records I was getting 500 miles to a full tank, so you must be solidly "in the zone".

From what I've read from people here a 5.8 can get just as good mileage as a 5.0 litre. Makes sense as they don't work as hard to get our 2 1/2 ton trucks up to speed.

I wonder if they made many shortbox F-150s with a 5.8 and a 5 speed manual. Bet they'd be the F-series mileage kings ?

Sixlitre
 

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Discussion Starter #7
When I was driving my `86 Eddie Bauer 5.0 AOD, I was getting a constant 15 MPG. No problem getting 450 miles out of a tank, and I never did anything to that (I was young and stupid).

That's why I was so shocked to get 13 out of this one.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
PHANT said:
That is some good news because I am doing the ignition upgrade and exhaust some time this week:chili:

Allow some time for the exhaust, and buy a 7/16-14 tap and a nice sharp 3/8" drill. *IF* you get the exhaust studs out of the manifolds, you'll want to clean up the threads with the tap, and if you break them off in the manifold, you'll be glad you have a sharp drill (I actually started at 3/16" and worked my way up).

Start soaking the "top" side of the studs in PB'laster now, every night, overnight, until you do the swap. I'm certain that's the only reason I got 3 out of 4 of them to come out. In MA, yours are certainly rusted in tight. I'll take pictures of what I'm babbling about if you don't know, but if you look at the exhaust manifold from above, right where the Y-pipe attaches, you'll see the "tops" of the threaded holes that the studs are in. I hosed those down every other night for two weeks with penetrant. Used a whole can, but I don't care, 3 out of 4 of the studs came out. I replaced them with new from the "Help!" line for $8, and used lots of hi-temp copper anti-seize putting everything back together.
 

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Crusher Mike
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Sixlitre said:
That's pretty darn good. When I was setting records I was getting 500 miles to a full tank, so you must be solidly "in the zone".

From what I've read from people here a 5.8 can get just as good mileage as a 5.0 litre. Makes sense as they don't work as hard to get our 2 1/2 ton trucks up to speed.

I wonder if they made many shortbox F-150s with a 5.8 and a 5 speed manual. Bet they'd be the F-series mileage kings ?

Sixlitre
Doing my exhaust helped alot then upgraded the cap and rotor I had all the other stuff. did a motor flush new fuel filter and on the freeway I keep it in between 60 and 70 miles an hour.
 

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Wrenching for a Livin'
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Sixlitre said:
I wonder if they made many shortbox F-150s with a 5.8 and a 5 speed manual. Bet they'd be the F-series mileage kings ?
I don't think they ever did make any. I've been lookin hard for a 5 speed f-150 for about a month now and have yet to see a 5.8L 5 speed '150. I think you could get them with 250s and 350s thou.
 

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ASM
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sewiv said:
Allow some time for the exhaust, and buy a 7/16-14 tap and a nice sharp 3/8" drill. *IF* you get the exhaust studs out of the manifolds, you'll want to clean up the threads with the tap, and if you break them off in the manifold, you'll be glad you have a sharp drill (I actually started at 3/16" and worked my way up).

Start soaking the "top" side of the studs in PB'laster now, every night, overnight, until you do the swap. I'm certain that's the only reason I got 3 out of 4 of them to come out. In MA, yours are certainly rusted in tight. I'll take pictures of what I'm babbling about if you don't know, but if you look at the exhaust manifold from above, right where the Y-pipe attaches, you'll see the "tops" of the threaded holes that the studs are in. I hosed those down every other night for two weeks with penetrant. Used a whole can, but I don't care, 3 out of 4 of the studs came out. I replaced them with new from the "Help!" line for $8, and used lots of hi-temp copper anti-seize putting everything back together.
Thats great, because I just got some PB blaster the other day as I was going for some autolites (Autozone was all out of spark plugs:shrug ) I've been blastin them sumbitches, so it should be easier to get them off. And yes, they did appear to be rusted tight:banghead
 

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back in the days with little street tires and driving it easy my bronco could get 18mpg on the highway. with 35" swampers and some mods i was getting 15.5mpg at 75mph ;)


now i get 11 on the highway :doh0715:
 

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all i need to the fallowing, brakes, bearing and slick stuff in the diffs.

as of last night 252miles took 17.429 so thats 14.45866
 

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We have a coporate 1991 Bronco Custom 350 thats 100% stock. It gets 9mpg :wacko .

When I found that out, my 13mpg didn't look so bad.
 

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What diameter is the Catco Y-pipe? Is it the stock 2.25" or is it opened up to 2.5"?

I'd be interested in going with a 2.5" Y-pipe over the stock size, if the Catco is that size. Also, where is everyone buying the Catco Y from for a good price?

Any mods that increase mpg TODAY is worth every penny due to the Fuel Gangsters bending everyone over backwards...
 

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Discussion Starter #17
The Catco is a stock replacement, just a different configuration. It's 2.25 dual back to the cat (with a crossover for the O2 bung), then whatever the stock pipe is out of the cat to the muffler (2.5, I think). I bought mine from Summit for 191 something. It comes in a BIG box, so there's a surcharge for shipping.

It also moves the cat and pipe completely above the crossmember and skidplate, so the old first cat doesn't hang down in front of the skidplate.

The only thing that kind of bugs me is that the cooling tubing for the tranny runs *right* over the pipe where it crosses from the driver's side to join the passenger side. I actually had to bend mine a little so it didn't touch. I'm thinking about insulating that tubing with something. I didn't buy a tranny cooler just to have my new exhaust re-heat it. (Then again, I didn't pay a lot of attention to where the old exhaust was in relation to that tubing either.)

Picked up my new radiator today (Ready-Rad 436009), and a heavy duty relay for the fan. Controller comes tomorrow from Summit, along with some other stuff. Then I just have to find time to get all this stuff wired up and installed. That new radiator is *huge*.
 

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sewiv said:
Picked up my new radiator today (Ready-Rad 436009), and a heavy duty relay for the fan. Controller comes tomorrow from Summit, along with some other stuff. Then I just have to find time to get all this stuff wired up and installed. That new radiator is *huge*.
Is it as big as the stock radiator? I know my 94's stock radiator appears to be at least 3" thick and maybe a 3 or 4 row radiator. I also need to get a replacement, as mine is shot... Is the one you purchased from Summit also? Is the new one all aluminum (tanks too), brass/copper or aluminum w/plastic tanks? Is it a 3 or 4 row?

thx for the help with my questions! :rockon
 

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Discussion Starter #19
That part is a 4 row brass/copper beasty. It *looks* like a drop-in for the stock on my `94, it'll just take up *all* the "extra" room that there might be around the current one. It's very solid, 35 pounds shipped.

I didn't get it from Summit, I got it locally for $237 +tax.

Google on Ready-Rad 436009, specs are online.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
PHANT said:
Thats great, because I just got some PB blaster the other day as I was going for some autolites (Autozone was all out of spark plugs:shrug ) I've been blastin them sumbitches, so it should be easier to get them off. And yes, they did appear to be rusted tight:banghead
Get a set of deep-well impact sockets, too (mine were metric). I snapped a craftsman 14mm "normal" socket with no difficulty at all. Several half-inch extensions and a big breaker bar will be useful too (time for a trip to Harbor Freight). I was using a 24" breaker bar and about 18" of extension to break them loose.
 
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