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The Tennessee Warden
96 XL, built 357W, E4OD, BW1356, 4.56 gears
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5,221 Posts
Discussion Starter · #181 ·
SO, the other day, I noticed a couple small puddles underneath the engine on the pavement at work. Please don't say it's leaking! Well, it was....I drove home and changed clothes to crawl under and investigate. There was oil everywhere! IT was dripping from the drain plug, oil pan bolts on the drivers side, cross member, and it had blown back onto the trans pan and y pipe and skid plate! I could smell it burning off the y pipe when I was stopped at traffic lights. So I muttered a few choice words, and figured I was going to have to try and replace the pan gasket section on that one side. Fast forward to yesterday, and I go to start this nightmarish job, and change the oil at the same time, since it was almost at 250 miles on the break in oil. I drain the oil - jet black, with some fine metal shavings on the magnetic plug - expected for the break in. Then I go to unscrew the filter, and I touch the oil pressure sender setup I have with the two senders on it (sender and switch, really), and it wobbles. It was loose - like really loose! Could it really be this easy to fix this leak? I remove all of this plumbing and reinstall it snug with thread sealant, and then refill with oil and install a new filter. I crank the engine and let it run for about 15 minutes - no leaks. No way!

I drive it to work this morning, waiting to smell burning oil at every traffic light - nothing! I think that did it! I'll go out at lunch and look at the pavement underneath, but I think that did it!

Pic of the magnetic drain plug with some black shavings on it:

 

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The Tennessee Warden
96 XL, built 357W, E4OD, BW1356, 4.56 gears
Joined
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5,221 Posts
Discussion Starter · #183 ·
man you lucked out...if that were me I'd have been replacing the rear main..
You're right about that. It's not typical of my luck for it to have been an easy fix. I just went out to the parking lot at work to check it, after a 50 minute drive and sitting for about 4 hours, and the pavement is dry. Dodged a bullet on this one. I was a little worried about the RMS too, since I had to put it one while on the stand - hard to reach very well while on the stand. But it's holding up so far.
 

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The Tennessee Warden
96 XL, built 357W, E4OD, BW1356, 4.56 gears
Joined
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5,221 Posts
Discussion Starter · #184 ·
I'll be bringing the bronco over to get it tuned tomorrow, and see if I can get this new engine running at its very best. It's running quite well, but it is running with stock tune with stock MAF and 24# injectors, so I'm sure it could use some fine tuning. It's set at 12 deg BTDC initial timing and running 89 octane gas currently, so he will be programming how the pcm advances timing with throttle, testing the range of the stock MAF to see if it's sufficient, and setting it for the bigger injectors. If the stock MAF range isn't enough, he has a few larger MAFs that will bolt up and provide more range.

I'm excited to see if this can extract any more torque/power from this setup.
 

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Ford Hoarder
78 & 92
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7,944 Posts
Yes it should... espeically in the mid-range or under the curve... Right where our trucks need it the most.
 
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The Tennessee Warden
96 XL, built 357W, E4OD, BW1356, 4.56 gears
Joined
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5,221 Posts
Discussion Starter · #186 · (Edited)
So, I got the new setup tuned the other day. The guy used a "special version" of the SCT software. When he hooked up the scanner tool, he found the codes for the evap circuit fault and some sort of trans temp code. He turned those off, and also turned off the EGR codes in case they decide to show up. Since I decided to use an aftermarket damper, there was also a crank position sensor code (no tone ring), but he was not able to disable this code - therefore, my CEL will remain lit. I will just have to periodically scan codes for anything new - I may pull the bulb at this point just to clean up the cluster.

So before we did anything, he put together a program for the PCM based on the specs of the build - cam, heads, compression ratio, etc. He didn't tell me much at this point as far as what he was doing, but I'm sure it was just some recalibration stuff for the larger injectors, air measurements at the MAF sensor, timing advance curve, etc. So then we went for a drive. It wasn't much different at this point, and I was noticing early shifts from the E4OD. It was also idling high. So we pulled over and turned off the ignition, he made a few adjustments, we reflashed the PCM with some new parameters, and went off again. It was better, but still not perfect. We pulled over again, and he said "ahhh, that'll do it." He went back to the timing advance curve - how the PCM advances timing throughout the throttle range and at WOT - and he changed the total timing to about 28 deg advance from the stock 21 deg advance that was in there previously. This was set to 28 based on running 89 octane pump gas - we could have gone higher if 93 octane were the gas of choice, but we kept it at 28 for now.

Then we reflashed the PCM again, and cranked it up and pulled out on the street again. Holy crap, what a difference! It was like he had just flipped the "add 50hp and 75ft-lb switch!" I hit WOT and the front end just lifted up and we were gone! He also adjusted the shift points to be later, and also firmer shifts with less slippage, and it's running like a beast. The shifts aren't TOO hard to where it's uncomfortable - they're just right - and at WOT, it'll shift to second at around 4800 RPM and to third somewhere in the 4000 range (I wasn't looking to hard at that point as I was trying to drive then lol). The torque converter lockup occurred a little close to the OD shift, but I was letting up at that point, so it's probably fine. The stock MAF ended up having enough range to measure the air needed for the engine - I was reaching levels of 900 (cfm I'm guessing?) and the stock range tops out at 1023, so if I install any other power adders, a new larger MAF sensor will likely be needed.

So then, since @sackman9975 was with me at the tuner guy's shop, we went back to his house to check out a tailgate issue I was having. After diagnosing this, I decided I would address it back home. So then we went for a drive so he could experience the improvement first-hand. We took off at WOT and he told me he heard a touch of spark knock as we accelerated in second gear and into third. So after the drive, I dropped him back off and then I went home. I was planning on bringing the base timing back to 11 deg from its current 12 deg, but I decided to stop off at Costco and fill up with 93 octane, since it was at $3.50-something per gallon and not the typical $4 per gallon for the area. No more spark knock! I may still bring back the timing to 11 deg base just to save a few bucks on gas for driving around town, and put it back to 13-14 with some 93 octane when I'm going wheeling or just want to have some fun!

WHAT. A. DIFFERENCE!


Oh...and the tailgate issue....it was something to do with the latch safety switch - the one that disables the window if the gate isn't shut all the way. So I jumpered this plug and the window is back to working as it should. (y) Next tailgate project - fix the key switch to work again and remove the window safety bracket on the internal latch mechanism - may get a new one since my old one is a little deformed from a few bad pulls with the window up just a bit.
 

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The Tennessee Warden
96 XL, built 357W, E4OD, BW1356, 4.56 gears
Joined
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5,221 Posts
Discussion Starter · #187 ·
Replaced the pass side axle u joints and fixed the slip yoke spring mod with a new 1/8” plate cap and a 7/8” x 2.5” spring to keep the axle pushed into the diff. (C clip was eliminated for the locker).







 

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Ford Hoarder
78 & 92
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Looks good
If that one pops I'd consider using TIG and full circle.
I have also thought someone could machine a groove for a clip there to hold the plate too.
 
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The Tennessee Warden
96 XL, built 357W, E4OD, BW1356, 4.56 gears
Joined
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5,221 Posts
Discussion Starter · #189 ·
Looks good
If that one pops I'd consider using TIG and full circle.
I have also thought someone could machine a groove for a clip there to hold the plate too.
Hopefully it’ll hold up. I feel pretty good about it.
 

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The Tennessee Warden
96 XL, built 357W, E4OD, BW1356, 4.56 gears
Joined
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5,221 Posts
Discussion Starter · #190 · (Edited)
I also had to replace my IAC with a new Motorcraft unit - the OEM one was starting to stick and force high idle.






I also got the A/C system recharged since the compressor wasn't kicking on anymore - all good there now too.
 

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The Tennessee Warden
96 XL, built 357W, E4OD, BW1356, 4.56 gears
Joined
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5,221 Posts
Discussion Starter · #191 · (Edited)
So, during the drive to the Bronco Takeover, I was noticing that my coolant temp was running warmer than normal - it was hitting temps of 215° with the A/C on and 210° with it off. I was warm outside, but not excessively - maybe 82-85°. I figured new engine, tighter tolerances, not-stock internals - maybe it just needs better cooling. Just to be safe, I ordered a new 192° Motorcraft thermostat, a new Motorcraft temp sender, and a larger 2-row radiator from Rock Auto. I stopped by and picked up another gallon of anti-freeze concentrate and a gallon of distilled water, since I knew this radiator would hold more coolant. Swapped it in, and after burping the air out, it is running between 185-195° with the A/C on in 90° heat - I can live with that.







With the thicker radiator, the throttle body crossover line wouldn’t secure to the radiator shroud bolt in the same way, especially this side where the cap is, since the hose would need to be longer. So I left this side loose and secured the other side with a bolt/nylock nut.
 

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The Tennessee Warden
96 XL, built 357W, E4OD, BW1356, 4.56 gears
Joined
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5,221 Posts
Discussion Starter · #192 ·
I was also noticing some slight tapping noises from the rockers. So I broke into the rocker covers and did another lash adjustment, step by step, on the cam's base circle for each cylinder. Kind of a PITA, but you gotta do it right, because pulling the rocker covers isn't as easy here as it is with a carb engine with room to spare. To adjust these, I spin the pushrod (with cam on base circle of course) with one hand and slowly tighten the rocker nut until it's very hard to turn the pushrod by hand. Then I go 1/2 turn more on the nut, and then tighten the hex key jam nut and rocker nut together - 16 times.

Rocker covers back on, upper intake back on, plug wires reattached and routed properly, etc etc. Crank it up, and no more tapping - nice and quiet up front. Happy happy.

 

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Ford Hoarder
78 & 92
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Looks good...
Not that would be adjustable, but I can take the pass. side cover off with the edlebrock intake upper on still. Its gotta taller base then the stock one.
I just put same radiator in a 460 swapped truck, I am sure that one will be up to task for your build. My 92 has similair one too, but the all aluminum version. Never runs over 185 in it (180 tstat)
 

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The Tennessee Warden
96 XL, built 357W, E4OD, BW1356, 4.56 gears
Joined
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5,221 Posts
Discussion Starter · #194 ·
Looks good...
Not that would be adjustable, but I can take the pass. side cover off with the edlebrock intake upper on still. Its gotta taller base then the stock one.
I just put same radiator in a 460 swapped truck, I am sure that one will be up to task for your build. My 92 has similair one too, but the all aluminum version. Never runs over 185 in it (180 tstat)
Dude, there’s so much crap in the way on the pass side - there’s no freakin way I’d be able to remove the rocker cover, let alone adjust the rocker nuts! With everything so fresh, removing the upper is super easy and just made sense.




I’m happy with the radiator. I had an air pocket for a bit and I looked down and saw the gauge pegged for about 10 seconds, and then it dropped to the middle. So I had to burp it again lol. All good now though.
 

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Nice build, just read all the way through. Its nice having a friend willing to help (Even if it does take a 30 pack lol). You have an estimated cost of the engine build?
 

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The Tennessee Warden
96 XL, built 357W, E4OD, BW1356, 4.56 gears
Joined
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5,221 Posts
Discussion Starter · #196 ·
Nice build, just read all the way through. Its nice having a friend willing to help (Even if it does take a 30 pack lol). You have an estimated cost of the engine build?
Thanks man. Cost? What’s that??
 

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The Tennessee Warden
96 XL, built 357W, E4OD, BW1356, 4.56 gears
Joined
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5,221 Posts
Discussion Starter · #197 · (Edited)
Alright, so the engine has been running great - has about 5k miles on it, nice and broken in. I have now found my next project for the Warden.

SAS!

I picked up a straight axle Dana 44 from a semi-local guy, and along with it, I got heim steering links, Duff double shock towers, Duff coil buckets and towers, Deaver H57C springs, axle shafts, spindles, all nuts and bolts for said equipment, a spare set of Warn lockouts, and a few other little things. This is gonna be sweet!


 

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The Tennessee Warden
96 XL, built 357W, E4OD, BW1356, 4.56 gears
Joined
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5,221 Posts
Discussion Starter · #198 ·
Started taking apart the D44. The ring & pinion that was in here was grenaded by the PO, so the ring and carrier are not present, but I'll be installing my 4.56 gears and carrier from my TTB D44 anyway. So, the knuckle studs on here are pretty galled up, so they come out. To get the last one on each side, the knuckle has to come off. So I took both knuckles off and notice that the ball joints need replacing. The lowers are the same as the TTB knuckles, and I had a pair of those in the garage, but the uppers are not the same, so I ordered a set of Moogs (to match the lowers) from Rock Auto. I had ordered a new set of knuckle studs, but the wrong parts came - studs for a non-Ford Dana 44 (3/8-24), and I needed 7/16-20, so those are getting returned. Now to wait for the new studs and upper ball joints so I can put the knuckles back on.






 

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The Tennessee Warden
96 XL, built 357W, E4OD, BW1356, 4.56 gears
Joined
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5,221 Posts
Discussion Starter · #199 ·
Well, I got new spindle studs and nuts, and the new ball joints, and everything is installed now. I had to re-install one of them because I didn't pay attention to the direction of the grease zerk, but I got that straightened out. I've been getting new parts left and right for this front end - rotors/hubs, bearings, calipers, brake pads, brake lines, etc., and all I needed was a set of spindles. I found a set a couple hours away and the guy agreed to send them to me. I get them and one was missing the outermost 1/4' of threads and the threads that were there were galled up around the keyway. I was able to get the spindle nut on the threads, but it took probably 40 ft-lb just to spin on the nut. So I contacted the guy and told him I would send them back to him, and he said not to worry about it and he'd refund my money. So I ordered a new set of aftermarket spindles from JBG and I'll go pick those up next week.








 

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The Tennessee Warden
96 XL, built 357W, E4OD, BW1356, 4.56 gears
Joined
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5,221 Posts
Discussion Starter · #200 ·
Also, just got most of my stuff ordered from Duff the other day - long arm kit, track bar bracket, track bar, track bar mounting hole repair kit (hole in axle mount is ovalled a bit), and a diff guard. Getting closer…




 
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