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The Tennessee Warden
96 XL, 5.8L, E4OD, BW1356, 4.56 gears
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3,791 Posts
Discussion Starter #41
Got into a little more tear-down tonight. It’s down to the bare block now and almost ready to go to the machine shop. I just have to remove the oil pressure switch and oil cooler (anyone know how that thing comes off? That’s getting deleted on this build).

Crank journals look pretty good and the cylinder walls do too. Looks like the cross-hatching is still pretty evident. I may be able to get away with a quick honing instead of boring 0.030 over. We’ll see what the shop says.

Anyways, pics!







 

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Ford Hoarder
78 & 92
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7,182 Posts
How far you going with this block.
Full line hone, bore with torque plates, etc...?
Looks like a decent start point for sure.

For longevity sake I would go ahead and overbore it now, so you have a fresh start. .030 or even .040 is nothing on these 5.8 blocks. I'd likely also do the crank .010 under on the mains and rods too.
 

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The Tennessee Warden
96 XL, 5.8L, E4OD, BW1356, 4.56 gears
Joined
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3,791 Posts
Discussion Starter #43
How far you going with this block.
Full line hone, bore with torque plates, etc...?
Looks like a decent start point for sure.

For longevity sake I would go ahead and overbore it now, so you have a fresh start. .030 or even .040 is nothing on these 5.8 blocks. I'd likely also do the crank .010 under on the mains and rods too.
Boring is definitely on the table - and I’ll probably go with 0.030. The crank will be turned 0.010 regardless just for peace of mind if nothing else. I’ll have the machine shop check for round on the mains and I do like the idea of boring with torque plates so it can be as “perfect” as possible.

Also, I removed the oil cooler and noticed that the mounting area underneath the cooler at the block looks different and doesn’t have the same gasket mating surface for the filter. Is there an adapter that I need to put on here? I kinda want to install a oil filter relocation kit.
 

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ate lug
88 + 96 broncos, 96 F250
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8,681 Posts
Swap to the standard 3/4" filter stud, and run the 'other' filter. The filter thats used in conjunction with the oil cooler is 22mm thread. You can probably get a stud cheap from Summit Racing or Jegs, etc.
 

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The Tennessee Warden
96 XL, 5.8L, E4OD, BW1356, 4.56 gears
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3,791 Posts
Discussion Starter #45
Swap to the standard 3/4" filter stud, and run the 'other' filter. The filter thats used in conjunction with the oil cooler is 22mm thread. You can probably get a stud cheap from Summit Racing or Jegs, etc.
I was dumb and didn’t look carefully - in my defense I was getting tired last night at midnight when I was looking at it lol. There was an o-ring stuck to it that made it look weird. I removed it and it looks normal now. I’m planning on a relocation kit to make filter changes easier and less messy.
 

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The Tennessee Warden
96 XL, 5.8L, E4OD, BW1356, 4.56 gears
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3,791 Posts
Discussion Starter #47
Wait, no late night rock 'n roll GT40 porting, after all?
Lol no - a friend of mine has a set of aluminum heads new in the box that he bought a while back with plans to use them. He changed his mind and went a different direction. He told me he would sell them to me for a killer price that I couldn’t refuse. So I figured what the hell - by the time I bought the GT40s and had them shipped and then worked over at the machine shop, I’d have more money in them than I’m spending on these new aluminum heads.

So, I’ll just listen to some rock n roll while I do other things! ;)
 

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78 Custom 460 NP435 NP205 Sniper EFI HyperSpark Ignition 4.56 Gears Front/Rear Grizzly Lockers
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2,453 Posts
Where's Paul Harvey when you need him.
 

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The Tennessee Warden
96 XL, 5.8L, E4OD, BW1356, 4.56 gears
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3,791 Posts
Discussion Starter #49
Doing a little cleanup on the oil pan - this thing was disgusting!




I spoke to a machine shop today. Looks like my cost there will end up somewhere between $600-$1000 or so. That is for magnafluxing, media blasting the block, boring cylinders 0.030” over with torque plates, resurface decks, line honing, install cam bearings, press wrist pins into new pistons, and turn crank 0.010” under.

Does this sound reasonable? It’s been a long time since I had machine work done.
 

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78 Custom 460 NP435 NP205 Sniper EFI HyperSpark Ignition 4.56 Gears Front/Rear Grizzly Lockers
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2,453 Posts
I'm not sure, but I just said to myself $100 for each item you listed and that came out in the middle of your price range. lol

I'd have to go through my receipt for the machine work that was done on my Bronco's 460. I just know it all adds up really fast.
 

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Ford Hoarder
78 & 92
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7,182 Posts
I usually have em hot tank it and also do the freeze plugs.
I think that is right in range for good work. Very similar to my 429 bill for a lot of the same work.
Since you have all the parts there (cept flexplate) you may consider getting the rotating assembly balanced too.
 

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The Tennessee Warden
96 XL, 5.8L, E4OD, BW1356, 4.56 gears
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3,791 Posts
Discussion Starter #53
I usually have em hot tank it and also do the freeze plugs.
I think that is right in range for good work. Very similar to my 429 bill for a lot of the same work.
Since you have all the parts there (cept flexplate) you may consider getting the rotating assembly balanced too.
Yes, forgot to mention the freeze plugs - that was part of it. I’ll think about the balancing as well. Thanks.
 

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Premium Member
1986 Bronco, 351w, Edelbrock aluminum top end, Holley 600, 4" BDS lift, 35" Maxxis Razr's, stuff..
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2,600 Posts
Cool


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" on 33's
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36,848 Posts
Been there, done that... scratched the piss out of it re-installing anyway. ;)
 

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The Tennessee Warden
96 XL, 5.8L, E4OD, BW1356, 4.56 gears
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3,791 Posts
Discussion Starter #59
Ok I decided to replace the connecting rods too. If I were to reuse my existing rods, I’d have to get the pins pressed in at the shop and add cost to that bill (and I’d have old rods). So, I’m getting new rods and I’m going with floating wrist pins for these. So...I beam vs H beam. This isn’t a high rpm race engine or a stroker, so a good set of I beams should be fine yes? I’m thinking these...




Thoughts?
 

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Floating pins will only work for pistons designed for floating pins. They need a grove in the pin bore of the piston to hold a lock ring.
 
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