The Tennessee Warden
96 XL, 5.8L, E4OD, BW1356, 4.56 gears
I believe YOU will be fine with the extra's you have or will have, Especially if you keep the 19lb Stock injectors.Anyone have an idea of how hard of a time I’m going to have getting this setup I’m building to jive with the EFI/MAF/PCM etc.? Will I need an aftermarket pcm and tune to do this or what? @CrazyBRONCOguy do you know? I hear things about Tweecer and Quarterhorse - do I need something like this to run a modified engine on the EEC-V / OBD2 system?
Thanks man - yeah I spoke to a guy local to me in Livonia who said he tunes F series and Broncos, and he came recommended by some other local bronco guys. He told me that he can take care of me whenever I’m ready. He did say that I would probably need 24# injectors and possibly a C&L 73mm MAF to go with the 56mm BBK throttle body I’ll be installing, although he said the larger MAF probably wasn’t necessary.I believe YOU will be fine with the extra's you have or will have, Especially if you keep the 19lb Stock injectors.
The OBD-2 system your particular Bronco has should be able to compensate for it.
If it does not, you need a tuner such as a SCT X4 in which you will download tune via the OBD port. Very specific situation you have, vs most bronco's on this page. This will also give you the ability to do it via email, much like most new cars. You simply swap the Calibration file around, no extra chips or anything needed.
That said I could see needing to increase to 24lb+ injectors, though I'd try it first and see. Will be border line, you may get away with a fuel pressure bump. Especially with the minimal higher rpm use you say. A wideband O2 sensor will give you a good idea of where your at. Yes I know they are expensive but really only way to tell once you start changing things. Is not 100% the best but you will likely be fine with a calibrated maf if you need to change up the injectors. Just make sure to get a transfer function sheet with what ever you choose if you do that.
Being where you are in Mi, there are several close-ish shops that should be able to tune it, on the dyno. Watson, Livernois, to name a few that I know of without looking a bunch.
Also looking good so far. Glad to see you ended up goin with Aluminum Heads. You should realistically be +60-100hp and at least the same in torque.
I looked at Ohio Crank’s website, and the only sb Ford rods they offer are either 5.4” (1/2” too short) and 6.2” (1/4” longer). With the stock rods at 5.956” I don’t know if the 6.2” would cause valve/deck clearance issues. Any ideas on this?Also check out ohio crankshaft...