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The Tennessee Warden
96 XL, 5.8L, E4OD, BW1356, 4.56 gears
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Discussion Starter #63 (Edited)
Anyone have an idea of how hard of a time I’m going to have getting this setup I’m building to jive with the EFI/MAF/PCM etc.? Will I need an aftermarket pcm and tune to do this or what? @CrazyBRONCOguy do you know? I hear things about Tweecer and Quarterhorse - do I need something like this to run a modified engine on the EEC-V / OBD2 system?
 

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The Tennessee Warden
96 XL, 5.8L, E4OD, BW1356, 4.56 gears
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3,791 Posts
Discussion Starter #66
Got the crank seal pulled and cover cleaned up pretty well, considering it was done with various wire brushes, a wire wheel, and a rag.



I also started wire wheeling the backing plate until I noticed this pitting. This probably wouldn’t seal very well, so a new backing plate was added to my buy list.
 

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Ford Hoarder
78 & 92
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7,182 Posts
Anyone have an idea of how hard of a time I’m going to have getting this setup I’m building to jive with the EFI/MAF/PCM etc.? Will I need an aftermarket pcm and tune to do this or what? @CrazyBRONCOguy do you know? I hear things about Tweecer and Quarterhorse - do I need something like this to run a modified engine on the EEC-V / OBD2 system?
I believe YOU will be fine with the extra's you have or will have, Especially if you keep the 19lb Stock injectors.
The OBD-2 system your particular Bronco has should be able to compensate for it.
If it does not, you need a tuner such as a SCT X4 in which you will download tune via the OBD port. Very specific situation you have, vs most bronco's on this page. This will also give you the ability to do it via email, much like most new cars. You simply swap the Calibration file around, no extra chips or anything needed.

That said I could see needing to increase to 24lb+ injectors, though I'd try it first and see. Will be border line, you may get away with a fuel pressure bump. Especially with the minimal higher rpm use you say. A wideband O2 sensor will give you a good idea of where your at. Yes I know they are expensive but really only way to tell once you start changing things. Is not 100% the best but you will likely be fine with a calibrated maf if you need to change up the injectors. Just make sure to get a transfer function sheet with what ever you choose if you do that.

Being where you are in Mi, there are several close-ish shops that should be able to tune it, on the dyno. Watson, Livernois, to name a few that I know of without looking a bunch.

Also looking good so far. Glad to see you ended up goin with Aluminum Heads. You should realistically be +60-100hp and at least the same in torque.
 
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The Tennessee Warden
96 XL, 5.8L, E4OD, BW1356, 4.56 gears
Joined
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3,791 Posts
Discussion Starter #69
I believe YOU will be fine with the extra's you have or will have, Especially if you keep the 19lb Stock injectors.
The OBD-2 system your particular Bronco has should be able to compensate for it.
If it does not, you need a tuner such as a SCT X4 in which you will download tune via the OBD port. Very specific situation you have, vs most bronco's on this page. This will also give you the ability to do it via email, much like most new cars. You simply swap the Calibration file around, no extra chips or anything needed.

That said I could see needing to increase to 24lb+ injectors, though I'd try it first and see. Will be border line, you may get away with a fuel pressure bump. Especially with the minimal higher rpm use you say. A wideband O2 sensor will give you a good idea of where your at. Yes I know they are expensive but really only way to tell once you start changing things. Is not 100% the best but you will likely be fine with a calibrated maf if you need to change up the injectors. Just make sure to get a transfer function sheet with what ever you choose if you do that.

Being where you are in Mi, there are several close-ish shops that should be able to tune it, on the dyno. Watson, Livernois, to name a few that I know of without looking a bunch.

Also looking good so far. Glad to see you ended up goin with Aluminum Heads. You should realistically be +60-100hp and at least the same in torque.
Thanks man - yeah I spoke to a guy local to me in Livonia who said he tunes F series and Broncos, and he came recommended by some other local bronco guys. He told me that he can take care of me whenever I’m ready. He did say that I would probably need 24# injectors and possibly a C&L 73mm MAF to go with the 56mm BBK throttle body I’ll be installing, although he said the larger MAF probably wasn’t necessary.

I just dropped off the block, main caps, and crank at the shop. He said probably two weeks turn around. He’s gonna check the crank to see if it needs turning, which will save me about $80 if it only needs cleaning up. But it’s getting cleaned up, magnafluxed, bored 0.030”, deck surfaced, line hone, and cam bearings/freeze plugs installed. I also found a set of H-beam rods for just a few dollars more than the I-beams above - might get them instead.

I’ll likely be running high-test with this compression though lol. I’m targeting 300+ hp and 400+ torque.
 

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Ford Hoarder
78 & 92
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With the aluminum heads it will be fine. May need to play with timing a bit. But similar to my 92s parts list and 93 is just fine (tune is setup around 93)
 
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Ford Hoarder
78 & 92
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If your pump is good, I think you will be fine. If there is an issue it will be in the upper rpm. The AFR will let you bump up the pressure a little to compensate for a bit.
I do have a larger pump in mine, but it was due to be replaced at the time I was putting that engine in anyways and I had replaced everything else. I also had plans for NOS and such in my future (had not so much anymore due to acquiring other toys).
In other words would I replaced a good functioning pump, likely not, if I needed to replaced the pump I would for sure then go ahead and get a bigger one.
 

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saw this a few days late, if you have already ordered the rods so be it.

I am sure some cast I beam rods will be ok. But I am all for overbuilding, especially when it comes to parts I've had fail, or that when failure occurs is completely catastrophic, and I've had a rod go straight through a block wall.

I am all about forged H-beam rods. I know they costs A LOT more than standard cast I-beam rods though.
 

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Ford Hoarder
78 & 92
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7,182 Posts
Scats should be much better.
Also check out ohio crankshaft and eagle. They are imported castings finished here. While they may not be best "race" parts I feel they hit a sweet spot in the budget for something beefier then stock that will go the long haul with some extra peace of mind.
 
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The Tennessee Warden
96 XL, 5.8L, E4OD, BW1356, 4.56 gears
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3,791 Posts
Discussion Starter #78
Also check out ohio crankshaft...
I looked at Ohio Crank’s website, and the only sb Ford rods they offer are either 5.4” (1/2” too short) and 6.2” (1/4” longer). With the stock rods at 5.956” I don’t know if the 6.2” would cause valve/deck clearance issues. Any ideas on this?
 

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78 & 92
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Their website isnt great. They may not have them anymore, but I would call and ask. But to answer your question it would depend on the pistons that you used. However I would stick with standard dimension parts.
Though you could offset grind the crank to use the longer rods, effectively making a mini stroker kit, I would not do this for what you looking to build though
 
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