Bronco Forum - Full Size Ford Bronco Forum banner
1 - 14 of 14 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
100 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Installed the 6A and Blaster TFI coil today, along with some copper autolights.

i didnt use the MSD harness, im alittle sketchy on the connections at the coil itself, anyone else hook one up with out it? had any problems?



truck idles much better, and has much better throttle response now

hopefully it adds a couple MPGs too... we'll see :chili:
 

· It's BTW Not AKA!
Joined
·
5,369 Posts
No new wires and cap and rotor?
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
4,088 Posts
I recommend that you consider connecting your MSD 6A Ignition power supply directly to the battery.

I recommend that you consider installing an MSD Ignition Noise Filter (PN 8830) to ensure a clean voltage signal with no spikes.

I recommend that you consider installing a MSD Ignition Harness (PN 8874) for a clean install and the ability to bypass the box when it fails.

I recommend that you open your spark plug gap to .054 and advance your base timing up to 13.5 BTC.

I recommend that you consider testing the MSD 6A Ignition for spark NOW and at least 1 month prior to the end of warranty. This should not be a little spark, but a BIG spark.

I recommend that when your MSD 6A ignition fails shortly after warranty that you consider a Crane Ignition... :lowblow
 

· Registered
Joined
·
100 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I recommend that you consider connecting your MSD 6A Ignition power supply directly to the battery. its wired into the stater solenoid, close enough right?

I recommend that you consider installing an MSD Ignition Noise Filter (PN 8830) to ensure a clean voltage signal with no spikes. not a bad idea there

I recommend that you consider installing a MSD Ignition Harness (PN 8874) for a clean install and the ability to bypass the box when it fails. the way its set up now it would be cake to bypass, i didnt cut any wiring or harnesses

I recommend that you open your spark plug gap to .054 and advance your base timing up to 13.5 BTC. i need to change the timing, but my gap is at about .057 now

I recommend that you consider testing the MSD 6A Ignition for spark NOW and at least 1 month prior to the end of warranty. This should not be a little spark, but a BIG spark. I bought it used, checked the spark against the old coil and ignition, then again after and it was a big improvement

I recommend that when your MSD 6A ignition fails shortly after warranty that you consider a Crane Ignition... :lowblow We have run MSD in all of our race cars for years with no issue, so i wouldnt expect much different with this. Mallory is junk, no real experience with crane, other then cams
thanks for your input... which crane box do you run?
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
4,088 Posts
MSD recommends your 6A Ignition power supply to be directly off of your battery, the ground being most important. See MSD 6A Ignition User Instructions or give them a call. http://www.msdignition.com/ignition_4_6200.htm

Grounding directly off of your battery will give you a cleaner signal, but I additionally installed a MSD Noise Filter (PN 8830) to minimize potential problems, such as voltage spikes, as I have a 3G 130A alternator. http://www.shopatron.com/product/part_number=8830/424.0.15573.0.0.0.0

Play with advancing your timing between 10 and 13.5 BTC in addition to opening your spark plug gap.

Test your MSD Ignition operation, as per the MSD 6A Ignition User Instructions. http://www.msdignition.com/ignition_4_6200.htm

Consider Crane Multi-Spark Ignition PN HI-6S. http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browseParts&lvl=5&prt=1967&action=partSpec&partNumber=6000-6301

Many members of this forum have had negative experiences with MSD Quality Control and are recommending Crane Multi-Spark Ignitions.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
100 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
it is grounded directly to the battery, i might move the power over to the battery instead of the solenoid if any kind of issues pop up... i will probably throw a volt meter on the main power wire to check for any fluctuations.

as for noise, i dont have any radio noise at all, but i might pick up the filter at some point anyway, no real downside to it.

i wasnt able to track down my timing light today or else i would have taken care of that too, that should be done within the next couple weeks... i am going to mess around with it and see what works best, with 13-15* being the base line.

i checked it that way before i fired up the truck to be sure everything was in order and working since i bought it used. I pulled the plug so i could see how much of an actual spark difference there was.... i wish i could easily test the actual power of the spark and not just look at it, but it was obviously a stronger spark, and thats what i was shooting for.


if this one takes a dump on me, or when i look to upgrade i might look into that crane, it seems comparable to the digital 6.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
4,088 Posts
Sounds like you are on the right track and have all of your bases covered. I had my MSD 6A repaired (failed 12 days out of warranty) and it is now my back-up.

As for the Noise Filter, I have no audible noise as well, but I am concerned about the G3 130A Alternator and the potential for catastophic Ignition/Coil/TFI failure due to voltage or current spikes. I want dependability.

Just thought I would share my experiences and research with you. :toothless
 

· Satyr of the Midwest
Joined
·
17,689 Posts
i havent done the alternator upgrade, does that make fluctuations a big concern?
Only if you have the much-older style with the side plug-in (pic from Fireguy50's site):



Those are notorious firestarters. The connector's spade terminals get loose with heat cycling, and eventually a large amount of current will melt that connector and can start a fire. The only real surefire cure is a 3G upgrade.

FWIW, I can no longer endorse ANY of MSD's products. They've failed me too many times for the last time.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
100 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
i did mount it using the little rubber mounts.

its also mounted to the inner fender, which is plastic, so it has plenty of give and bounce. so it shouldnt really get shocked too hard.

and i have good bump stops so i shouldnt stuff a wheel into it either.


so the concern is more with the stock alternator, not the upgrade? im confused
 

· Practicing Infidel
Joined
·
15,114 Posts
I recommend that you consider connecting your MSD 6A Ignition power supply directly to the battery.

I recommend that you consider installing an MSD Ignition Noise Filter (PN 8830) to ensure a clean voltage signal with no spikes.

I recommend that you consider installing a MSD Ignition Harness (PN 8874) for a clean install and the ability to bypass the box when it fails.

I recommend that you open your spark plug gap to .054 and advance your base timing up to 13.5 BTC.

I recommend that you consider testing the MSD 6A Ignition for spark NOW and at least 1 month prior to the end of warranty. This should not be a little spark, but a BIG spark.

I recommend that when your MSD 6A ignition fails shortly after warranty that you consider a Crane Ignition... :lowblow
All excellent recs IMO:thumbup

Sixlitre
 

· Satyr of the Midwest
Joined
·
17,689 Posts
so the concern is more with the stock alternator, not the upgrade? im confused
Both. The 'upgrade' to a later-model alternator (3G, 4G, etc.) will completely eliminate the fire risk associated with that older style; the connector becomes a very secure ring/eyelet terminal instead of spade terminals that can loosen up. The main benefit, the reason MOST people upgrade, is the higher ampacity of the 3G/4G models, and higher voltage output at lower engine speed.
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top