[cjansen37]

I bought this Multimeter. Actron cp7672. approx $15

I have my chiltons manual, and a basic set of instructions that came with the multimeter.

However, I have read, and just dont get it.

I have 3 plugs one for com(ground)
one says v_mA the space is an upside dwn lookin horshoe and under it in red letter 750vac, 100vdc, 200mA max
one says 10ADC

the dial has 4 main areas with ranges

ACV 200 - 750
DCA 200-2000 - 20m - 200m
DCV 200m - 2000m-20-200-1000
200-2000-20k-200k-2000k < another horshoe lookin thing>

then it also has a setting on dial that is a + with an arrow
it has one that says hFE
then one that says 10A

in the lower corner it has what appears to be a light with npn / pnp

What setting do i use to test.
Testing for shorts.
for resistence

How to test, can i test connectors by connecting to the body for a ground
and if not where do i test it at. My book is not all that clear and dont want to screw anything up.


Please help

 

[81Bronk36]

I bought this Multimeter. Actron cp7672. approx $15

I have my chiltons manual, and a basic set of instructions that came with the multimeter.

However, I have read, and just dont get it.

I have 3 plugs one for com(ground)
one says v_mA the space is an upside dwn lookin horshoe and under it in red letter 750vac, 100vdc, 200mA max
one says 10ADC

the dial has 4 main areas with ranges

ACV 200 - 750
DCA 200-2000 - 20m - 200m
DCV 200m - 2000m-20-200-1000
200-2000-20k-200k-2000k < another horshoe lookin thing>

then it also has a setting on dial that is a + with an arrow
it has one that says hFE
then one that says 10A

in the lower corner it has what appears to be a light with npn / pnp

What setting do i use to test.
Testing for shorts.
for resistence

How to test, can i test connectors by connecting to the body for a ground
and if not where do i test it at. My book is not all that clear and dont want to screw anything up.


Please help

The common ground is the black, the V_MA and Ohms one is Volts Milli amps and Ohms, Volts is just that, voltage, have to have the truck on, or be testing a hot circuit basically (make sure you use DC volts or Direct current, not AC which is for houses), the ohms is the resistance of a wire or ciruit (how you test plain wires for breaks or connectors for not being tight or good enough)

That other connection will be able to tell you what a circuit is using, but only up to 10A max, Ive never used mine for that. 90% of the things in your truck use more then 10A.

start with volts, or I like to just use a test light since mine takes a few seconds to register and its a PITA to wait for it and sometimes it gives false readings where a test light you just ground one end to the truck, the pointer you stick in the wire, back of the connector front of a disconnected connector whatever and a light comes on, not matter how faint the contact is with the wire it will light up. They cost $7, so its worth it IMO to start with that. Once you find a circuit that doesnt light up or show voltage when it should then you can use your OHMs tester. I believe if you just ground one end of the multimeter and then tested the wire it should show some resistance, thats good. OL is bad, it means overload or infinate resistance, not connected. You should try a ground on the bolt to see if it goes all the way there, when my engine ground was crappy it was good at the connectors, but not the bolt, I took it off and cleaned up the frame, reconnected and bam, started up and no more CD player on fire:thumbup

A short is kinda tricky because its basically less resistance to ground then there should be and you dont really know what that is, so I barely ever use it, plus it barely ever happens, plus it usually blows fuzes or makes wires hot/melt anyway so I just look for a short manually (with my eyes)


Oh and you probably want to use the DCV 20 for the volts cuz it will go from 1-20 which your truck will have from 12.6 to 15 depending on if it is on or not. and if yours is a meter type, not a digital I would definatly suggest getting a test light to reduce the amount you have to use your meter to just the OHMs check (horseshoe thing)
Hope this helps

 

[NHBronco]

For measuring AC voltage turn the selector to ACV and then to an appropriate range.

For measuring DC votage (your truck uses 12 volts DC) turn the selector to DCV and then an appropriate range.

For measuring resistance turn the selector to ohms (looks like a horseshoe) and then an appropriate range.
________________________________________________________________
For the above three measurements your leads should be: black on COM and red on V(ohm)mA.


To measure curents up to 200 milliAmps you can leave your leads where they are.
To measure currents over 200 mA but less than 10 Amps you move the red lead to the 10ADC port.

Most troubleshooting can be done with voltage and resistance checks. Never try to measure resistance when a potential (voltage) exists. You can damage your meter.

 

[cjansen37]

Thank you guys very much. I changed the cap on my coil, mine was broken. I spliced it in good. Then got it to start, I played with the timing just a bit and it kept running. I let it run for a bit turned it off and started right back up. On the test drive though I noticed that my voltmeter was not working.

My alternator is basically brand new, and headlights were nice and bright. Drove for about a half hour, turned off and started several times with no hesitation just started right up.

Now that the stress of trying to get it running is past, I can take time to go through and test everything.

Thank You FSB!!!

 

[81Bronk36]

Good deal.

Not Dieseling down and starting up at a decent pace is a good sign you got the timing right. I had to do that on my 84 caprice when I pulled all the computer crap (carb, Dizzy, intake) but left the no timing numbered balancer:toothless

 

[cjansen37]

Im Driving again:rockon
Have gone several rounds with my Bronc, just hope its stays drivin for a while.
At least long enough to work out all the little bugs.

Then lookin to go find some dirt, and mud:chili: