[Breezeway2021]

Hello all, I’ve made a few different threads over the past year or two for diagnosis of different things and that sort of stuff but I figure I’ll just make a build thread to consolidate my future progress since hopefully I’m not far from being functional.

So this is my ‘95 XLT. It has a MAF 302 with E4OD and shift-on-the-fly t-case. Currently about 158k mi.

So this thread will be a recap of the work I’ve done previously (as much as I can remember) and then picking up on new work. Many of the pictures are several years old.

This bronco was actually my first vehicle and I’ve held on to it even though it’s not been on the road in about 4yrs. It’s been in my family for probably around 15 I think and it’s been mine for right about 6.

Starting off the timeline here, before it was mine, it spent at least one maybe two extended stays in a mechanics lot waiting for what transmission work... off to a great start lol. My dad bought this bronco I believe from Georgia. And it’s been in KY ever since. It was my DD (2yrs ish) until I started working 45min from home then I bought a little Toyota echo gas sipper. It was good timing too because shortly after that I started getting trouble out of the bronco. It started stalling when you put it in gear... but only occasionally.

Long story short I had the transmission rebuilt in 2019 and it didn’t fix it so it was free (remember this for later) and then found a bad ecm. In the last year I was able to find a replacement ecm and then found that my ignition was failing also. So I’ve replaced the ICM and PIP. Cap, rotor, plugs and wires had been done not too long ago previously. Electronically now the truck runs well and operates and does not trip any CELs... but still got a stalling in gear when it gets warmed up, as well as super delayed reverse when it’s cool. So come to find out I hear that the trans shop I used was less than reputable. (This explains how long it took and being free should have been a sign)

So I’ve bought a used 96 or 7 e4od from a local OBS diesel guy for 100 bucks. When time allows we’ll do the swap. The replacement trans has 88k miles on it and he says it worked good when he pulled it from the f250 with 351. This fella is a friend and has built a truck for a relative of mine so I believe him to be trustworthy.

Other work I have done is as follows.

Recently: rear diff service and tone ring replacement (fix speedo wobble), front pads and rotors (fix soft brakes and shaking)

Not so recently: TPS replaced, IAC replaced, throttle body and intake manifold cleaned. Parking brake cable replacement.

Back when it was a DD: water pump and radiator replaced, motor flushed, short tube headers put on to replace busted cast iron manifolds. That’s all I can remember...

Cosmetically: really not much other than rubber inlay on console and dash and also front grill lights (both done when DD)

Thanks for reading and hopefully it’s worth following along!

 

[Breezeway2021]

Here’s the rubber inlay (this is like peel and stick rubber tread you can find at TSC etc... could have done better application but I like it).

Grille lights: they were like 25$ I think. I really like the way they look but they are less than impressive for actual lighting lol

Also an old Ford hubcap I think from the 60s. Saved it from a scrap pile this spring then realized it would fit my spare.

 

[Breezeway2021]

Still things to check off the list are as follows:

Trans swap and might as well do u-joints
Fuel tank seal and fix fuel gauge.
Passenger window regulator
Fix power door locks (luxury item)
Lots of trim and trim screws need attention
New dash pad would be nice
my spare tire is really old and its a 31" instead of 30" which is what the truck is on, so i should probably fix that... either change four to match the one or change the one to match the four...

That’s about it I think. I’m sure I’ll come up with more as I progress.

Also forgot I retightened my header bolts the other day as many of them had worked loose. They’ve pretty much always leaked but trying to get that fixed too. They at least sound better than the old cast manifold that actually had chunks blown out.

All vacuum lines were replaced in the last 5yrs and when I did the PIP (couple months ago) I re-timed it to about 12 degrees so gave it a little bump.

did an ABS module bypass because its got issues and actually my speedo still wobbles (just starts at about 60mph now instead of like 35) so ill have to look into my PSOM as well or at least bypass the VSS signal from it so theres no potential for shifting confusion.

the new to me transmission has the upper starter bolt broke off in it. ive been spraying it down for the last few days to prep in trying to get it out. i can either drill it and replace with a nut and bolt through the whole thing or cut a notch out of the casting and do a nut and bolt or try to get it reversed out altogether. its broke off pretty much flush. any tips?

the Solenoid pack on it checks out fine with the DVOM. Need guidance on checking the MLPS (the sensor itself)... COUGH COUGH @miesk5 ;P

 

[Breezeway2021]

ignore this...

 

[Breezeway2021]

This is the broken starter bolt. I’m leaning towards drilling it and replacing with a through bolt and nut.

 

[Breezeway2021]

The short tube headers that my dad and brother helped me put on about 5yrs ago have pretty much always leaked lol. We could never get the y pipes to connect properly so we just did the best we could.

Today I finished up an attempt to help it by using high heat epoxy putty over the connections, wrapped that in fiberglass flat rope for wood stove door glass and then hose clamped it on. Kind of rednecky but it’s helping. For the first time since ever since it’s been mine, I hear more exhaust from the tail pipe than I do the engine bay so that is kinda nice lol.

The truck isn’t trustworthy yet (if ever lol) but it is movable so I did a short test drive. Sounds pretty good. Still a fair amount of exhaust tone can be heard from the front but I believe that’s just the natural sound of the headers with just a small amount of leaking perhaps... (passenger side had harder time with the hose clamp)

Road noise seems to be a lot more than I remember and its A/T tires are not super aggressive so I might need to add wheel bearings to my list.

 

[Breezeway2021]

Got the starter bolt out of the donor trans. I drilled it out from the rear so the bolt hole acted as a guide for the bit. I believe it was a 5/16, the bit wasn’t stamped with its size but it fit perfectly in the bolt hole. Still have some threads left too so I might get lucky and be able to use the normal bolt in it again... but I won’t count on it lol.
I’ll find a bolt and nut to go all the way through it and then enlist some help from my brother to do the swap.

I don’t have a lift so I’ll be working off the floor and using a floor jack to do the heavy lifting. My jack already has a large surface for its point of contact. It’s like 8”x10” or so. But I plan on taking some 2x4 and making a cradle for the trans to sit in so it doesn’t roll so easy and of course I’ll strap it all to the jack.

I managed to pull my m5od with the t case still on it last fall with the same jack and no wood cradle, and even though I had to pull it back out enough times that I got comfortable with it, I’m not going to take this e4od for granted. I for sure will remove the t case and make it as light as possible. I learned a whole lot doing the clutch for my f150 so I’m hoping that experience will really help it go smoothly.

I brought the donor trans to my work so I could utilize the fork lift, so now it’s time to load it back up, take it home and overthink a method of force multiplying to get it out! just kidding, I’ll wait till I get help.

 

[Breezeway2021]

@miesk5 ; hey Al do you have a test procedure for the MLPS? I wanna see if the one on this donor trans is good. Didn’t find one in a search.

edit oh sorry, I found it. Never mind.

 

[Breezeway2021]

MLPS checks out on the DVOM so good deal in case I need it.