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‘95 Bronco XLT 5.0 E4OD, MAF——‘95 F150 XL 4.9 M5OD 4x4, SD
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all, I’ve made a few different threads over the past year or two for diagnosis of different things and that sort of stuff but I figure I’ll just make a build thread to consolidate my future progress since hopefully I’m not far from being functional.

So this is my ‘95 XLT. It has a MAF 302 with E4OD and shift-on-the-fly t-case. Currently about 158k mi.

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So this thread will be a recap of the work I’ve done previously (as much as I can remember) and then picking up on new work. Many of the pictures are several years old.

This bronco was actually my first vehicle and I’ve held on to it even though it’s not been on the road in about 4yrs. It’s been in my family for probably around 15 I think and it’s been mine for right about 6.

Starting off the timeline here, before it was mine, it spent at least one maybe two extended stays in a mechanics lot waiting for what transmission work... off to a great start lol. My dad bought this bronco I believe from Georgia. And it’s been in KY ever since. It was my DD (2yrs ish) until I started working 45min from home then I bought a little Toyota echo gas sipper. It was good timing too because shortly after that I started getting trouble out of the bronco. It started stalling when you put it in gear... but only occasionally.

Long story short I had the transmission rebuilt in 2019 and it didn’t fix it so it was free (remember this for later) and then found a bad ecm. In the last year I was able to find a replacement ecm and then found that my ignition was failing also. So I’ve replaced the ICM and PIP. Cap, rotor, plugs and wires had been done not too long ago previously. Electronically now the truck runs well and operates and does not trip any CELs... but still got a stalling in gear when it gets warmed up, as well as super delayed reverse when it’s cool. So come to find out I hear that the trans shop I used was less than reputable. (This explains how long it took and being free should have been a sign)

So I’ve bought a used 96 or 7 e4od from a local OBS diesel guy for 100 bucks. When time allows we’ll do the swap. The replacement trans has 88k miles on it and he says it worked good when he pulled it from the f250 with 351. This fella is a friend and has built a truck for a relative of mine so I believe him to be trustworthy.

Other work I have done is as follows.

Recently: rear diff service and tone ring replacement (fix speedo wobble), front pads and rotors (fix soft brakes and shaking)

Not so recently: TPS replaced, IAC replaced, throttle body and intake manifold cleaned. Parking brake cable replacement.

Back when it was a DD: water pump and radiator replaced, motor flushed, short tube headers put on to replace busted cast iron manifolds. That’s all I can remember...

Cosmetically: really not much other than rubber inlay on console and dash and also front grill lights (both done when DD)

Thanks for reading and hopefully it’s worth following along!
 

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‘95 Bronco XLT 5.0 E4OD, MAF——‘95 F150 XL 4.9 M5OD 4x4, SD
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
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Here’s the rubber inlay (this is like peel and stick rubber tread you can find at TSC etc... could have done better application but I like it).

Grille lights: they were like 25$ I think. I really like the way they look but they are less than impressive for actual lighting lol

Also an old Ford hubcap I think from the 60s. Saved it from a scrap pile this spring then realized it would fit my spare.
 

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‘95 Bronco XLT 5.0 E4OD, MAF——‘95 F150 XL 4.9 M5OD 4x4, SD
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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Still things to check off the list are as follows:

Trans swap and might as well do u-joints
Fuel tank seal and fix fuel gauge.
Passenger window regulator
Fix power door locks (luxury item)
Lots of trim and trim screws need attention
New dash pad would be nice
my spare tire is really old and its a 31" instead of 30" which is what the truck is on, so i should probably fix that... either change four to match the one or change the one to match the four...

That’s about it I think. I’m sure I’ll come up with more as I progress.

Also forgot I retightened my header bolts the other day as many of them had worked loose. They’ve pretty much always leaked but trying to get that fixed too. They at least sound better than the old cast manifold that actually had chunks blown out.

All vacuum lines were replaced in the last 5yrs and when I did the PIP (couple months ago) I re-timed it to about 12 degrees so gave it a little bump.

did an ABS module bypass because its got issues and actually my speedo still wobbles (just starts at about 60mph now instead of like 35) so ill have to look into my PSOM as well or at least bypass the VSS signal from it so theres no potential for shifting confusion.

the new to me transmission has the upper starter bolt broke off in it. ive been spraying it down for the last few days to prep in trying to get it out. i can either drill it and replace with a nut and bolt through the whole thing or cut a notch out of the casting and do a nut and bolt or try to get it reversed out altogether. its broke off pretty much flush. any tips?

the Solenoid pack on it checks out fine with the DVOM. Need guidance on checking the MLPS (the sensor itself)... COUGH COUGH @miesk5 ;P
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The short tube headers that my dad and brother helped me put on about 5yrs ago have pretty much always leaked lol. We could never get the y pipes to connect properly so we just did the best we could.

Today I finished up an attempt to help it by using high heat epoxy putty over the connections, wrapped that in fiberglass flat rope for wood stove door glass and then hose clamped it on. Kind of rednecky but it’s helping. For the first time since ever since it’s been mine, I hear more exhaust from the tail pipe than I do the engine bay so that is kinda nice lol.

The truck isn’t trustworthy yet (if ever lol) but it is movable so I did a short test drive. Sounds pretty good. Still a fair amount of exhaust tone can be heard from the front but I believe that’s just the natural sound of the headers with just a small amount of leaking perhaps... (passenger side had harder time with the hose clamp)

Road noise seems to be a lot more than I remember and its A/T tires are not super aggressive so I might need to add wheel bearings to my list.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Got the starter bolt out of the donor trans. I drilled it out from the rear so the bolt hole acted as a guide for the bit. I believe it was a 5/16, the bit wasn’t stamped with its size but it fit perfectly in the bolt hole. Still have some threads left too so I might get lucky and be able to use the normal bolt in it again... but I won’t count on it lol.
I’ll find a bolt and nut to go all the way through it and then enlist some help from my brother to do the swap.

I don’t have a lift so I’ll be working off the floor and using a floor jack to do the heavy lifting. My jack already has a large surface for its point of contact. It’s like 8”x10” or so. But I plan on taking some 2x4 and making a cradle for the trans to sit in so it doesn’t roll so easy and of course I’ll strap it all to the jack.

I managed to pull my m5od with the t case still on it last fall with the same jack and no wood cradle, and even though I had to pull it back out enough times that I got comfortable with it, I’m not going to take this e4od for granted. I for sure will remove the t case and make it as light as possible. I learned a whole lot doing the clutch for my f150 so I’m hoping that experience will really help it go smoothly.

I brought the donor trans to my work so I could utilize the fork lift, so now it’s time to load it back up, take it home and overthink a method of force multiplying to get it out! just kidding, I’ll wait till I get help.
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‘95 Bronco XLT 5.0 E4OD, MAF——‘95 F150 XL 4.9 M5OD 4x4, SD
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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
@miesk5 ; hey Al do you have a test procedure for the MLPS? I wanna see if the one on this donor trans is good. Didn’t find one in a search.

edit oh sorry, I found it. Never mind.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
This post comes with much exhaustion lol

Started a week ago with my brother pulling the trans. Everything was going great till we remembered a step too late to unbolt the TQ from the flex plate... out went all the fluid on the floor and it was down hill from there. Got three out of the four nuts off the TQ and the fourth one rounded out.... that was just great so I tried to take off the t-case next to get more room. Couldn’t get wrenches or ratchets on the bolts due to the exhaust being in the way... so out of frustration I let the transmission sit on jack stands all week half way removed while I worked on other chores and thought on how to get that nut off.

Today comes and I manage to get the amazingly massive e4od (and t case) out around all the exhaust with the help of disconnecting the Y pipe.

On the TQ nut I tried vise grips, grinding a flat spot, hammer chisel, heating it up and even rounded nut removers from my brother. None worked. So I had to cut it off.

Ahh... time for a break...

I’m hoping I can weld on a new stud to replace what I cut off... and reuse this TQ considering it’s pretty much brand new from what I can tell.
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Interestingly I noticed something kinda important while under the bronco...
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Right rear shock is missing the nut for the top mount position.... glad I’ve not had this in the road much. That could have been bad.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Getting closer to putting it back together. I know it’s taking forever but I have a life too so I have to juggle things. Doing a lot of little stuff today to prep for the main even. Cleaning up where the disassembly got messy... reorganizing tools... cleaning the floor... prepping tools... etc.

I got a new stud welded on to the TQ. I have an arc welder that’s probably 65 yrs old or so. It works good but I’m not very good with it yet so I made many welds, cutting/grinding back between welds to be sure it’s as solid as possible and not spongy underneath.
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Little bit of blue paint and the world will never know the atrocity that has happened here lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Also I cut out my second cat since it was in the way of taking the T case off first...

I will replace it with straight pipe as shown below. That will be one of the last things I finish up as I have the y pipe lose at the moment.

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Got my all-thread guides put in the block. I learned this trick after struggling to get the m5od back in my f150. It will help keep things aligned and make it much easier to put the input shaft into the engine on a manual. On this one it will lend as another pair of hands.
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Also got a new gasket made for the connection of the T case.

Heading to town later for some hardware. Got a get new y pipe-to-header bolts and a nut for that right rear shock.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
After getting the yard cut I spent another couple hours on the bronco last night. Got the rear shock nuts replaced, and got the y pipe bolts sized. (I bought both 3/8” thick and 1/2” thick grade 8 bolts not sure if the 1/2” would fit, but they do. I will keep the 3/8 for the random hardware bin)

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Next I used a pallet jack to slip in the replacement transmission off the skid and under the truck. The old trans I had to drag out on the ground, but this worked much better, I just had to lift the truck a couple inches to clear the frame rail. Then I transferred it to the jack. Then I called it a night since it was 10pm and I hadn’t had any dinner yet.
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Transmission,T case, and crossmember are in.

I actually had to do this twice... big surprise the rewelded stud on the torque converter broke off... so I went to town and got a new torque converter. Stinks since that one had maybe 50 miles on it, but they still took it for a core so I didn’t have to pay the extra 100$.

Honestly it went about as I expected (the broken weld that is)... I was just hoping for the best and not gonna spend the money if I could avoid it. But it’s okay. Peace of mind makes me happy knowing it won’t potentially break off later and cause a bigger mess. What I spent 3hrs doing the other night after work, I re-did in an hour and a half today, then had to go somewhere. And that sense of accomplishment makes it worth it lol

Now to get everything hooked up, drive shafts in, get the exhaust hooked back up then fill up the trans and try it out. Doing a new filter and stay put clip as well.
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
If a guy is ever wondering what's a good way to go about pulling the transmission out, working on the ground by yourself with limited tools and equipment, ill share what i have learned from this job.

In the case of the e4od and 4x4 transfer case... if your using just a normal jack to lower it with, then in my opinion it's too much unbalanced weight to lower safely still together (unless you have more than two hands). I managed to do it but it was only with God's help that it went okay, and i will not do it again lol. Instead, what I learned is that you can use the crossmember to your advantage.

My application is with a 302, not sure if a 300 would need this done, but i loosened the Y pipe from the headers to give myself more wiggle room. I completely separated the driver side connection and left it hanging loose on the passenger side... this really helped me be able to get to everything. Once you have everything on the trans and t case disconnected and ready to unbolt, start by loosening the nuts that hold the tail of the transmission to the crossmember as well as the driver side bolts that hold it to the frame rail. (The two bolts on for the angled piece can come off, but leave the others on as safety pins so that you don't accidentally drop the bar on yourself later), then support the transmission and t case with a jack. Lift the jack to take the weight off of the crossmember then remove the passenger side bolts holding it on. Use a jack stand to hold up the crossmember about two or three inches lower than its normal height. This will give you more room to get a 1/2" box end or ratchet wrench on the bolts that hold on the T case. With the weight being held by the jack stand, you can use the main jack to hold the T case as you separate it and lower it. It weighs maybe 40lbs after draining the fluid, so not terrible but it would still potentially ruin your day if it fell on you. It is hard to keep stable on the jack without keeping a hand on it.

Its worth noting that for me, the second catalytic converter was really in my way of getting the T case bolts off. After removing the trans and T case still together the first time, i cut out the second cat so i wouldn't have to put them back in the same way. It was after that that i figured out this method of installation im writing about, so im not sure if it would have still been in the way or not if i did this to begin with.

Once the T case is off, you can leave the crossmember resting on the jack stand. My floor jack has a contact surface of roughly 10"x12", i zip tied on one side a piece of 2x4 and a piece of 1x on top of that, leave a gap in the middle to accommodate the shape of the pan, and on the other side basically the same thing but a little thinner to keep it as level as possible. (there's a picture of this a few posts above).

With the tail of the transmission lowered a few inches it makes it easier to see the block bolts on the top of the bell housing and be able to reach them with a long extension if you have one, instead of coming from the engine bay which is a pain on the V8s but not as bad on the 300. If you're a little on the shorter side like i am, you can sit on the ground at the tail and have just enough room to tuck your head and sit up... Remove the top bell housing bolts, but leave one lose on one or both sides as safety pins. Be sure to unbolt the torque converter from the flex plate, then support the trans with your jack and take the weight off of the crossmember. Remove it, then try to align the height of your jack to be the most natural angle from the trans to the block so that it doesn't move much once is pulls free. Remove the remaining bell housing bolts and pull it back. Gently lower it down and your done. To reinstall just repeat the prossess in reverse and it works very well, the only difference is in reinstallation use all-thread guides in the block to help align the bell housing. (Picture of this in a previous post) they will save you a lot of trouble. Mine were made when i did a clutch on my 300 with the m5od, i dont remember the size but i wanna say it was 3/8" all-thread.

With my truck on jack stands adding about 3" to its height, i still had to take the trans off of the jack to get it out from under the truck. maybe you won't have to.
Hopefully this may be helpful to someone.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
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Well the ol bronco moved under its own power last night.
My wife helped me put in the drive shaft and fill up the trans for the test drive, I’ll put the front shaft and the skid plate on later.

Drove it around the yard and it felt pretty good. Even spinned the tires in the grass when I wasn’t even trying. So I guess that’s a good sign lol. I did find the trans oil pan is leaking enough to need to address it. One of the bolts had been over torqued and is preventing a good seal, this morning I emptied my drain pan from the old fluid and broke the pan lose. Had to head to work so I left it dripping. I’ll either work on that spot or swap the whole pan for the one on the old trans.

Didn’t get it out of 1st gear but so far so good! Also I was able to use the original starter bolt in that one I had to drill out. Still had good threads left.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
The Bronco is back on the road! So relieved. Thank you Lord!

Saturday morning the wife and I got the trans oil pan swapped out for the one that was on the transmission I replaced. Stopped the leak and then got it washed up and vacuumed out and we headed to town for a local car show that was one of our first dates back in the day in this bronco. Didn’t enter the truck, just drove it there.

Put 35mi on it with everything working the way it’s supposed to. I had no idea how much fuel was in it since the gauge doesn’t work so we put in about 3 gal from a can then another 10 gal once we got in town. If it’s anything like it used to be I’ll get around 13mpg. Time will tell. Was a very surreal day lol. Been trying to get this truck usable again for almost 5 years. Jesus gets the credit though. Many prayers were answered. And I couldn’t forget to put a cross on the mirror.

Now I’ll be working on little things when I feel like tinkering. Stuff like fixing lose trim, addressing the fuel gauge and tank seal, rear axle seals, rear brakes, etc.

Here’s some pics from the other day. And don’t mind the Chevy... he’s adopted lol
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Here’s what I did with the exhaust. There’s a hole from a weld that burned through I need to patch but otherwise it’s all good. I put a picture of the pieces I used a few posts back. I cut off about 4 inches from the 24” and put a couple slits in the end so it would crimp easier as the 2.5” female end was a little on the big side.

Around the y pipe connections I had to redo them since I disconnected it. I replaced the high heat epoxy and flat fiberglass gasket with a 1/2” round braided fiberglass gasket, once again for wood stove doors. I used the same hose clamps to hold it on. It works well. Exhaust sounds pretty decent at idle, but not obnoxious. It’s just enough to know it’s not completely stock which I like. With the exception of the weld burn hole it doesn’t sound like there’s any leaks around the front of the vehicle.

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