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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK, making some progress...

Changed the plugs and oil last Wed evening... Damn those back plugs are hard to do... had to do them through small holes someone cut in the wheel wells(now I know why those holes are there!) Old oil was like Crude. Think Cold chocolate surup in color and consistancy...

Hell of an improvement the plugs made, no more lope or hesitation, and its super smooth now. Went and test drove it... slings gravel in 180s real nice.
:thumbup

Proves how much work my F250 needs, its almost the same engine(400 built from a 351M), and it has nowhere near as much snort as this 351M.

I am off the idea of the aussie locker in the front since everybody is back ordered like a month on them :cry and the $$ diference compared to stock spiders is the price of one new tire... that means I can afford 3 tires, might as well buy 4. ;)

If I have trouble with the open diff slipping too much, I can always put the locker in later.

Did the tear down last Thur night... had a heck of a time with the lug nuts. Talk about rusted on. soaked as best I could in WD40 for half an hour. Then twisted the 4-way wrench slightly :doh0715: Impact didn't budge them... Amazing.

Finally got them with a 3 foot pipe over the 3/4 drive breaker bar.. Leaned my 200 pounds int the bar with the pull. a sudden audible POP and off they came.. after the third Pop being a stud breaking :banghead, my heart stopped each time it did it again. Lucky I was pulling the rotor anyway, I can re-stud it fairly easily.

They were the closed end chromed suckers.... new ones going on will be deep but open ended so they could be heated to suck lube into the threads if its ever needed.. Can I use anti seize on them? :rofl:

Was a little interesting getting the driver side disk brake cali off... somebody ran a non flanged bolt in to hold the key/spring...sunk the head into the cut out in the key only leaving 1/8" of head sticking up. Dad used an old trick; spun it out with a cold chisel hitting the head on angles. Have no idea how they put it in though. :smilie_slap

Locking hubs ain't stock, so was slightly odd disasembly there, not like my 78 factory manual shows, or anything my Dad had taken apart.

Was happy the spindle on that first side pulled right off... Dad did one once, had to wail on it with a sledge(as per dealer service advice :toothless) till it popped loose. I had to whack the passenger side one a couple times with the sledge... Don't worry, I used a wood block to cushion from hitting the threads.

Took us a couple hours to do the first side cause of the brake bit and different hub assembly, but the second side only took me like 15min since I knew what I was doing by that point.

Passenger side u-joint missing a cap... when it went it really went, twisted the heck out of the loop on the shaft... lucky it is the outer stub, not the long inner end; I assume the short one is cheaper. I could fix it easy enough, but it would be a weak link the next time its stuck, so I'll hit the junk yard for a used one.



Pass. side locking hub has 1 of 3 guide/slider fingers broke off. its a warn so I could probably get parts, but a buddy gave me a stock Spicer hub off a Blazer that'll fit.. They're both plastic outers, so it can be mismatched in brand till I can afford a set of the nice heavy brass Warns.

Wheel bearings look/feel good, so do the spindle bearings, and axle tube seals. All I have left to check is the kingpin/knucle bearings.

Pulled the carrier Fri. morning, had to un-hook the draglink bars, their bent back to 1/2" clearance of the ring gear; I'd have never got the carrier out. They'd have had to come off eventually to be straitened, but it made a longer morning than I wanted...

The guy that put new R&P in it before it was parked knew what he was doing; carrier was a tight fit, took me a careful pry on the ring gear with a 5 foot bar to pop it loose....

The gears condition;



Got the new carrier internals kit that afternoon. $116. about $30 more than this time last summer. bloody gas price and inflation. :cry

Gonna re-build the carrier this morning, and hit a junk yard for the axle, and grill parts I need in the afternoon. Might try for the fender I need, depending on $price of the axle.

Looks kinda desolate under there, with just an empty axle housing.



After the front end is back together, I need to fab brackets for, and get longer rear shocks(mounts are offset left to right, from frame to axle by a couple inches), and tear down the rear brakes to see why they don't work. That will be the end of important, must do mechanical stuff, and then I will start fabricating the new tailgate, and the rear cab to bed wall, and mounts for my winch.

Gary
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yeah, we figure that joint going was what blew the hub, and the spiders the last time it was driven... (like 5 years before I got it...)

Well, the stub axle new was around $60, so I went for it, then when at the shop found the bearing surface on the end of the other shaft was grooved pretty good, (I didn't even look at it before :doh0715:) So they built me a whole new axle... guy was nice, and cut the price down to dealer cost since we had agreed on a build with one old axle piece and then had to jack it up with the other unexpected piece.... $180 instead of about $220... :rockon

Got home and looked at the drivers side axle, bearing surface is the same... :cry Going to go today and get it built with a new joint and inner shaft. Got to get new tube seal/bearing since thats the wear point. The axles show signs of the spindle bearing having rusted in place while it was parked, and now skipping/chatereing on the rusty axle surface... gonna polish the driverside axle at that point to save getting a new outer there, and will check both spindle bearings... Might as well get new slinger/seals while I'm at it. Looks like I might end up with a all new axle assembly short of the R&P and carrier housing....

Old axle and new, and the bearing surface;





Got fed up with a week wasted getting jacked around by that tire shop(they blew any further buisness from me. Ever.), and too much total cost to order the Trxuss' I wanted by mail... and would have been a big hassle. Decided to just got bottom line MTs localy and be done with it.

Went to get new plain steel rims at the accessory shop; wrong width. Right width is the white spokers like I had already, would take a week to get them in from the next city. He said my preffered tire shop(not the guys jacking me around) should have them.

Tire shop didn't have them. So, I made a snap decision on the cheapest chrome ones he had... The once with te rivets around the outer ring, not bad, $95 over the $65 for the white spokers... He only had 3 on hand. :banghead (batting 100 wasn't I?)

So, when he went to check if he had all 4 tires so I could take them loose, he found 4 rims, the next step up at $115 each... Nice solids with baby moon hubcaps. *GRIN* I don't think I've ever seen heavy tread MTs with 'moon caps, usually they get put with low profile hotrod tires. figured that would look cool as all get out. And it does... :thumbup


Hankook Dynapro MTs 33x12.5R15.







$860 in rubber, $450 in chrome... I've never paid more than $500 for a whole vehicle. But daaaamn it looks gooood... And I have them on hand to go back on when the front end is done; No more wait. For the same $200 each, I had the choice of thes and another, I took these 'cause of deeper lugs, and a little squarer transition to side wall; the others rounded off more. The others were a MT but looked more like a AT, more street tread to them.

I guess all new parts in the front is good, I'll know exactly what I have. 6 month no questions breakage warenty on the new axles is nice.
So far so good.

Gary
 

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um i hate to tell you this but i think your axle shaft sales man ripped you off.. i would have run that old inner shaft, just clean up the seal surface.. also when you have it that far apart i would put new axle seals in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
double post..
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Even with the grooves? one is like 1/16"+/- deep, I figure it would eat at the seal/bearing surface... To be honest, I have been thinking of leaving the inner one on the other side as is, it isn't as bad... I dunno...

G.
 

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ya even with the grove, clean the rust out of them with a wire brush or what ever you want to use. put new axle seals in and run it, the groves are made in the shaft by the axle seal. but being you have a new one already just keep the old one as a spair.
 
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