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‘95 Bronco XLT 5.0 E4OD, MAF, Pace Setter short tube headers
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My point being I think tread depth does a lot to help the look. Plus you would think it would help with grip as well which this truck needed. This is what 460$ got me...
Wheel Tire Land vehicle Car Vehicle

Wheel Tire Sky Vehicle Motor vehicle
 
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1981 Bronco, 4.9L, ZF5, NP208, Detroit Truetracs, 3.55 gears, 31" Wranglers front and rear
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Discussion Starter · #502 ·
It’s funny how just a difference in tread pattern can make the same size tires look different. It’s weird how some 31s have great proportions on a stock suspension but others seem to be lacking. The tread on the first set has good proportions but the tread on the new set make it look like you should maybe go up a size just IMO. BUT it is hard to tell just from pictures.
Yeah, it's just the more aggressive tread of the Goodyears that makes the difference because they are the same height. I would like to go up a size, I think 32s look good on it and that's what it had when I got it, but with the ZF5 and stock gearing I don't know if they would work. I was keeping an eye out for a cheap used set to try, but no luck.

Sounds like you got an excellent deal on your tires, that's about what I paid for mine slightly used.
 

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‘95 Bronco XLT 5.0 E4OD, MAF, Pace Setter short tube headers
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I think it was @BigBlue 94 ; said 31” should be max tire size for 3.55 gears which is what all mine are. 32 to 35ish should use 4.10 or better. Could be wrong on who said that...
 

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1981 Bronco, 4.9L, ZF5, NP208, Detroit Truetracs, 3.55 gears, 31" Wranglers front and rear
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Discussion Starter · #504 ·
I think it was @BigBlue 94 ; said 31” should be max tire size for 3.55 gears which is what all mine are. 32 to 35ish should use 4.10 or better. Could be wrong on who said that...
Mine did fine on 32s w/355s when I was running the T18, but it seems a little doggy sometimes in OD w/31s so that's what makes me hesitate on going w/32s. Just don't know how much difference it would make.

I think it looks better w/chrome center caps.
Automotive parking light Wheel Automotive side marker light Tire Vehicle
Automotive parking light Wheel Automotive side marker light Vehicle Tire

And here you can see the windmill I installed to help increase MPG lol
Wheel Tire Cloud Automotive parking light Automotive side marker light
 
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‘95 Bronco XLT 5.0 E4OD, MAF, Pace Setter short tube headers
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Lol yep all shiny is nice. Adds HP too don’t ya know?
 
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1981 Bronco, 4.9L, ZF5, NP208, Detroit Truetracs, 3.55 gears, 31" Wranglers front and rear
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Discussion Starter · #507 ·
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1981 Bronco, 4.9L, ZF5, NP208, Detroit Truetracs, 3.55 gears, 31" Wranglers front and rear
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Discussion Starter · #508 ·
Got my junkyard grill painted and installed.
Automotive parking light Wheel Tire Automotive side marker light Sky
Automotive parking light Automotive side marker light Tire Car Vehicle
 

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1981 Bronco, 4.9L, ZF5, NP208, Detroit Truetracs, 3.55 gears, 31" Wranglers front and rear
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Discussion Starter · #509 ·
Finally took the time to replace the rear window runs in the tailgate. Thanks to @thedeuce01 for pointing me to what I needed on Dennis Carpenter, they were a perfect fit. As he mentioned, it comes in one piece, so you have to cut it in half. I did that, and in my case each piece was almost 1/2" too long. See the pieces I cut off in the middle of the pic.

They can be installed without taking the window out. I let the tailgate down, removed the cover, ran the window all the way out and supported it on a sawhorse. The hardest part was getting the old ones out as they had hardened and had to be broken out in many pieces as you can see below.

The window is still slightly in the track, so I started at the top, pushed the new run in for just an inch or two, then pushed it up until it was even with the top of the track. I had to lift up on the glass (from the outside just a bit for the run to move into the right position.
Brown Wood Font Art Bag
 
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1994 Bronco XLT 5.0, E4OD, 31x10.5R15 BF Goodrich A/T on OEM Rims, Rust Resto w/Custom Suspension
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Finally took the time to replace the rear window runs in the tailgate. Thanks to @thedeuce01 for pointing me to what I needed on Dennis Carpenter, they were a perfect fit. As he mentioned, it comes in one piece, so you have to cut it in half. I did that, and in my case each piece was almost 1/2" too long. See the pieces I cut off in the middle of the pic.

They can be installed without taking the window out. I let the tailgate down, removed the cover, ran the window all the way out and supported it on a sawhorse. The hardest part was getting the old ones out as they had hardened and had to be broken out in many pieces as you can see below.

The window is still slightly in the track, so I started at the top, pushed the new run in for just an inch or two, then pushed it up until it was even with the top of the track. I had to lift up on the glass (from the outside just a bit for the run to move into the right position.
View attachment 198813
At the risk of making you hate me, I'm going to ask this question...Did you put a good bead of 3M weather stripping adhesive in the channel before inserting the rubber seals? If not, you're gonna want to do that. I did not my first go around and the rubber slid down and the glass came out of the channel and got stuck. I liked to never got it back down to open the TG when investigating the issue. My first attempt at adding the glue was to run the glass up with the TG down and pull the seal out, try to add the glue with the channel run still installed and then put the rubber back in. That lasted about 2 weeks before the thing slid down again, and the window got stuck between the rubber and the metal. So, I then had to climb into the back with the window up, remove the panel and reach in and pull the rubber out from the glass and back in place to get the window down. This time I pulled the metal runs out, slathered on the adhesive and reinserted the rubbers. And, for good measure, took a 10mm wrench and firmly ran the head up and down the channel for a minute or two to make sure all surfaces had good contact. Then left it in the sun to bake. That was a month or so ago and it seems to have worked. I've been meaning to put my TG restoration into a "lessons learned" build thread but have been "Slack" on that. I'll see if I can get that done in the next day or two.
 
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1981 Bronco, 4.9L, ZF5, NP208, Detroit Truetracs, 3.55 gears, 31" Wranglers front and rear
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Discussion Starter · #511 ·
At the risk of making you hate me, I'm going to ask this question...Did you put a good bead of 3M weather stripping adhesive in the channel before inserting the rubber seals?
I didn't, but they seemed to have good resistance when I only had an inch or two in the rail and was pushing them to get them up to the top. I also sprayed the flocking with dry lube. Maybe that will help...

Thanks for the heads-up though, I guess time will tell.
 
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1981 Bronco, 4.9L, ZF5, NP208, Detroit Truetracs, 3.55 gears, 31" Wranglers front and rear
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Discussion Starter · #512 ·
I've been meaning to put my TG restoration into a "lessons learned" build thread but have been "Slack" on that. I'll see if I can get that done in the next day or two.
I encourage you to do that, it would be helpful to many.

I opened the tailgate back up this morning, made sure they were seated good and sprayed more dry lube w/teflon on them. The grandson and I are goin' camping tonight so hopefully they will be okay.
 
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1981 Bronco, 4.9L, ZF5, NP208, Detroit Truetracs, 3.55 gears, 31" Wranglers front and rear
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Discussion Starter · #513 ·
Fitted an air filter housing I picked from a 4.9 Cadillac, a 2002 IIRC. Still need to make a another support bracket for the filter box and extend the intake. The PS hose is in the way at the moment, but I'm planning on a Red Head steering box soon and will get that remedied then. or maybe try to find a straight adapter instead of one that's angled down like this one. Also need to remove the outer ring of the emblem.
Light Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive fuel system Auto part
 

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‘95 Bronco XLT 5.0 E4OD, MAF, Pace Setter short tube headers
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Fitted an air filter housing I picked from a 4.9 Cadillac, a 2002 IIRC. Still need to make a another support bracket for the filter box and extend the intake. The PS hose is in the way at the moment, but I'm planning on a Red Head steering box soon and will get that remedied then. or maybe try to find a straight adapter instead of one that's angled down like this one. Also need to remove the outer ring of the emblem. View attachment 199288
On the emblem i think I would try painting over it first. May be easier than trying to remove it. I dunno.
 

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1981 Bronco, 4.9L, ZF5, NP208, Detroit Truetracs, 3.55 gears, 31" Wranglers front and rear
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3,189 Posts
Discussion Starter · #515 ·
On the emblem i think I would try painting over it first. May be easier than trying to remove it. I dunno.
That's an idea, might just try a sharpie on the outer ring. Thanks.
 
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1981 Bronco, 4.9L, ZF5, NP208, Detroit Truetracs, 3.55 gears, 31" Wranglers front and rear
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3,189 Posts
Discussion Starter · #517 ·
Thanks @CrazyBRONCOguy, I'm hoping to pull cooler air into the motor. Probably won't make much difference, but...

The Ford center cap would look good, but the 4.9 sticker is what caught my eye and made me decide to pick it, so I'll probably keep it. I don't even know why I looked at the Caddy lol. Ratrod-ness, I like it.
 
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It definitely gives it a nice touch! Makes it look like you’ve got some custom fabbed stuff or whatnot. The red lettering in the caddy emblem matches the theme of the rest of the truck. Not sure a blue oval would look as in place as it already does.

I bet a bronco badge would look great. Like what you have on the front quarters.
 
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1981 Bronco, 4.9L, ZF5, NP208, Detroit Truetracs, 3.55 gears, 31" Wranglers front and rear
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Discussion Starter · #519 · (Edited)
@Breezeway2021 I pulled the emblem off, cleaned off the adhesive, cut the outer ring off and glued it back on w/some Loctite superglue. I'll see about getting a pic up tomorrow.
 

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I’m sure that will probably look more professional than black sharpie lol
 
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