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Discussion Starter #1,762
Thanks guys.

I ordered a mustang RKE box last night. I will swap it and see what happens. Still need to verify the EEC is good. I was too distraught last night to work on it. Wont have time tonight either. I may shift gears and replace the timing chains and guides on the durango and move the bronco back to limbo. It's a big job, likely to take 3 days. I'm bringing it to the dealer tonight to get a diagnosis to confirm or refute my diagnosis.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,763 (Edited)
RKE Box came in. I guess I should go put it in and try it. Hopefully it does something good. But I doubt it.

Ive been working on that blasted durango most of the day. I had a blow out at lunch yesterday. Totally shreded the tire. Thankfully the wheel is fine.

Then today, I could feel the front right brake caliper dragging on the rotor. Pulled the wheel off, rear pad was completely gone, front pad was 80% gone.

So I got a set of pads, got the right front one on, then it got dark. Skeeters shut everything down at dusk around here.

The damn tires are now the top priority. I have to see what I can find. At least get 2 tomorrow. Get the other 2 next weekend after I get paid.

As for the timing chain problem, well its still there. I did and oil change and that quieted it down significantly. Its not making any noise while it runs, just on startup for a second or two. SO maybe I can limp that repair a couple of weeks further down the road. At least long enough to figure out the bronco.
 

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I got a full set of tires at pep boys. Thankfully wife had some cash stashed aside. I got the front brake job finished. Everything works great on that end again. The tire guys said that the ball joints and tie rods are too bad to give it an allignment. So it looks like im going to be doing some front end work. Now I notice it while driving.
 

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Well today is a fantastic day. After 5 months of the bronco being dead, it finally lives again!.

I've been chasing this no start electrical problem for 5 months now. Given up numerous times. Just the other day, I ran into a mechanic friend and talked to him about it and I told him what all I had done. He suggested that the ignition actuator under the column might be the problem.

I could have sworn I put my old one in it, but no. Another problem was the knurled nut insert on the old switch pulled out of the plastic switch housing and prevented the new one from going on.

152270

152271

Once I got that out and put the new switch in, it fired right up.
So now I can put it all back together and go drive it.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,767
now that this issue is sorted out, I think I will get started on the tailgate window rewire/relay update. I finally located all the parts a few weeks ago. They had been lost in storage for a year now. I knew they were around here somewhere.

I also got a new tailgate latch mechanism, but im going to take it to a welder to have them strengthen the arm that opens the gate with a couple of tig welded gussets so maybe it wont bend and pull out of shape.

I also need to completely install the new stereo system. I should be able to get started on some of these projects Sunday. Im at the mecum auto auction in kissimmee all day tomorrow though checking out some killer cars and trucks.
 

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'95 XLT: 5.8/MAF/E4OD/6" lift/4.56's/33x12.5x15
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Damn actuators. Glad you got it nailed down, finally.

Have you considered just removing the safety feature that causes that rod to bend? It's a pretty small piece and I'm not sure a welder will be able to make it stout enough and still fit to do the job. I hated the safety feature though. Seemed very unnecessary for anyone with 1/2 a clue.

From my recent experience... a fresh torsion bar in the tailgate will completely eliminate any danger of the gate dropping and breaking the glass anyway. Hell... since I installed the new rod in mine, I went from resting it against my shoulder (yea, I'm short) as I carefully lowered the full weight of the gate with no bar support, to having to push it down just to sit level. I can literally open and close the gate with 1 hand now and there's no danger of the glass being damaged by a drop.

Just something to think about. Glad to see you back at it bud. Look forward to the ongoing saga.
 

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The arm I'm talking about is the one the handle connects to. The safety rod arm has been removed. The force you apply to the handle is so great it will bend the arm and cause the handle to stand up and not fold down. Even u der normal operation it will bend little by little till it needs replacement. So I got a new latch and wanted to try gussets to see if it helps.

Something like this.....
152342
 

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Discussion Starter #1,770
Well I still have a problem.

I went and unplugged the RKE box to re-mount it, then plugged it back in, then did the same for the alarm box, Unplugged it, put it back where it goes, plugged it back in. Then it would not start.
So I monkeyed with the wiring trying to figure out if something was loose. Maybe a pin in the connector isnt locked down. So I checked that out and found nothing. Unplugged, replugged, turned it on, alarm goes off. Disconnected the battery and cleaned the negative terminal with sand paper, wiped it clean, re-connected to the battery, alarm goes off immediately. So I tinker with it more, trying to see if moving the wires connecting both boxes have any effect.... Nothing.

Then I went thru all my fuses, confirmed the correct size fuse was in each hole, and verified they were all good with a DVOM. Then I got to thinking, Maybe one of the key switches is out of place in the door. So I got my door key and cycled thru the positions several times. Passenger side door lock will not operate with the key. hmmm. This has me thinking now. Im not sure if the passenger side door has a activate/deactivate alarm switch, but if it does and its in the wrong position, it could trigger the alarm. Since the key doesnt work, and im getting the alarm, its possible thats the problem.

Late last year, I drilled holes in the firewall in the cowl area to run 2 new 1/0 power wires for the stereo. When the hole saw broke thru, it cut the jacket of the wire harness going from the drivers door to the passenger door. This is what made me need to remove the dash the last time, so I could repair the cut wiring. Which I did. I took cut wires and soldered them back together and heat shrinked them. Chaffed jacket wires were checked and heat shrinked to re-insulate the wire. Then it was all taped up and secured. So perhaps I dont have a connection good to the passenger door at the connector on the kick panel. Maybe something else is screwed up there. One thing I have not done is try the door lock and window controls for the passenger door. So I suppose thats the next thing to check. If that stuff doesnt work, then its possible that something went wrong with my harness repair under the dash. Though I cant imagine what. Im careful when wiring.

Another thing I was thinking was, I know in order to completely reset the EEC Computer to factory specs you remove the positive and negative battery cables and hold them together for 10 seconds so that all capacitors are discharged. This clears all memory in the computer. So I tried it. Now when I connect the battery, it fires right up. Then when I turn it off, the alarm goes off. Then I can disconnect the alarm box, and reconnect it and the alarm goes off, and the truck will start again. So this sort of confirms that there is something wrong with one of the sensors for the alarm somewhere. I am going to have to dig into to the books and try and figure out where they all are and maybe I can ohm out the connector and see if each sensor is open or closed.

One thing you think about when troubleshooting something like this is, what has changed, what happened since the last time it worked. There are 2 possibilities as I see it.
1 - There is something wrong with my door harness connection repair, which may mean the dash is coming back out, or the door lock position sensor in the passenger door is in the wrong position.

2- Some other sensor that triggers the alarm is messed up.

At least I now have a direction to go now, and I have a temporary fix to get it driving.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,771
I did more testing. My door lock switch works on both doors. Flipping them numerous times did not cure the alarm.

I plugged the alarm box back in. Started it up fine, turned it off and the alarm sounded. Then I disconnected the white connector only and the alarm stopped.

Then I accidentally started the truck without plugging the white connector back in and amazingly it started. It wont start with both disconnected. By accident I seem to have found a bypass for the alarm box that still allows the door locks to work and let's the truck start.

So now I can put it back together and drive on. I know it's not the alarm module because I have 3 and all 3 act the same. I suppose this will just have to wait now until I get to take my passenger door locks apart to check the sensor.

From studying the diagrams it looks like the door lock alarm disable switch is the only sensor.
 

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Now I'm having battery trouble.
It wont charge and with nothing connected I'm getting 7 to 9 volts. Its 5 years old, so it's not like I don't need one.

Off to Walmart to get another one.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,774
New Battery is in. Cranks right up.

I checked for parasitic drain and I have a fairly big draw.
On my meter its showing 1.8 amps draw.
I suppose its time to pull fuses and go thru it that way. It might lead
to my problem with the alarm.
 

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Acceptable current draw is around 0.03, so your new battery is going to die pretty quickly at 1.8...good luck, hope you're able to get it sorted out.
 

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Is there a thread somewhere here at FSB which explains the theory and procedures of testing for parasitic power drains?
 

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Discussion Starter #1,778 (Edited)
Basically you remove your negative battery lead, put your meter negative lead on the negative battery post and positive lead on the negative battery cable. Set the meter to DC amps. Anything over 40 to 50 miliamps is a sign of parasitic drain. To localize it, you pull 1 fuse at a time till you isolate which fuse it's on. Then work your way thru the sub systems till you find the cause. Hopefully it's not a fuse with 10 things on it.

See this post for comprehensive instructions.

 

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Thank you that sounds pretty easy and straight forward.
 

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I'm starting to think this problem has always been there. I remember the first day I got the bronco I had multiple random alarm issues. It went away when I removed both battery cables and held them together to clear all codes.

Whatever is sticking is stuck again. This alarm issue never came up again until I tried to wire in an aftermarket alarm. I disabled it almost immediately because it was always going off as soon as it got power.

I need to remove the door locks to get them re-keyed. So when I do that I'm going to swap out the key alarm switches in the doors to see if that helps.

Other than that its running like it should and everything works. I did remove the airbag module and didn't plug the airbag in on the steering wheel and I have the white connector unplugged on the alarm module. I'm actually amazed it works.
 
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