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I worked on the truck most of the afternoon. I got it all put back together now except the stereo. I drove it about 100 miles today and its doing great. No issues. I even left the battery connected last night and i still had 12.6 volts this morning. Im going to call it good and drive on for a while. I still need to do alot more work on it but at least I can use it now. I need to un-jam the passenger window motor and then the window will roll up and down again.

Im pretty excited to get to drive it again. Its been so long. The new steering column is so much better than my old one. The new wheel is great too. at least it isnt all torn up and filthy like my old one.
 

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Im having some issues still. It seems almost every day after it sits, it will crank and run fine, but in limp mode. Shifts are hard so I have to use the gas pedal to shift it and the cruise wont work.
If I get to a stop light and turn it off then start it again, about 90% of the time it will fix the problem and shift normally and the cruise works normally. I also have a back light problem with the top center of the PSOM, which is another indicator of this problem starting up.

Since im not moving any wires or anything to make it work, im leaning toward thinking the PSOM might be going out. This would definitely cause the problem. These things are so old, the caps start to leak on every circuit board. Usually its either the PSOM or the EEC. So Im going to try and pull codes and see if there are any. Hopefully I can get it to shift rough and pull codes while its doing that. If its the PSOM, there should be a code 452 stored in the KAM.
 

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I worked on a few things today. I prepped the new tailgate harness for installation. Then I pulled the passenger side door panel to see whats going on with the window. Pulled the motor loose from the regulator and tried the switches. I got nothing, but I could feel there was some power coming thru. So I pulled out the meter and checked. 2.1 to 4 volts on the motor connector when activated. Im pretty sure thats supposed to be 12 volts. So It looks like when I repaired the harness under the dash for the passenger window is still shorted somewhere or not connected well. Of course. The only way to get to it is to pull the dash. Well im NOT doing that again for this. I will wait. Im sure something else will come along that requires the dash to come out and I will look at that then.
 

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I worked on a few things today. I prepped the new tailgate harness for installation. Then I pulled the passenger side door panel to see whats going on with the window. Pulled the motor loose from the regulator and tried the switches. I got nothing, but I could feel there was some power coming thru. So I pulled out the meter and checked. 2.1 to 4 volts on the motor connector when activated. Im pretty sure thats supposed to be 12 volts. So It looks like when I repaired the harness under the dash for the passenger window is still shorted somewhere or not connected well. Of course. The only way to get to it is to pull the dash. Well im NOT doing that again for this. I will wait. Im sure something else will come along that requires the dash to come out and I will look at that then.
One thing I'd try before pulling the dash again - try probing for power further back on the harness. I had this issue on the '95 on a tailgate window harness that looked perfectly fine. Turns out the wiring at the connector and back about 3 inches was totally corroded - under the the intact wire insulation. Replace just that section and it worked fine.
 

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yea, i did think of that. I just replaced the entire harness that goes from the left to right door with one from a donor. I went thru all the connectors and cleaned them and the pins and made sure all the pins were properly soldered on. I dont have any answers yet, but I will try probing that harness at the connection on the drivers side before I make a final determination.
 

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I replaced my broken Wiper transmission. That wasnt much fun at all. Getting that clip on is not very easy. At least I figured out how it comes off without destroying it.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,788 (Edited)
More work today. I'm filling in holes. I've got some serious cowl rot going on. Time to at least temporarily patch it. Thankfully it's only bad on the drivers side. Theres about a 10 inch rot from the edge back toward the center. The 8" of good metal, then another 6" rot. Then 10" of good metal and another 6" of rot, but that spot hasn't totally caved in yet.

I cut out some paper templates of the cowl channel then cut it out of 14 gauge steel. I'm using epoxy putty to fill the giant holes, then gluing down the steel patch on top of it.

1st pic is the 2nd hole. 2nd pic is 1st hole filled and patched.

Then I'm going to seal the patch edges with more epoxy putty then seam sealer Then epoxy primer, paint, and top it off with a shitload of flex seal.

Hopefully it will work good enough to last a few years. By then I'll probably sell it off.
153520





Everywhere you see white was a giant hole. Took 3 sticks of puddy to even get close to filling it all.
153521



the big patch for the next section.
153530
 

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I made more progress this afternoon on the hole patching. Im all the way up to the center point of the windshield. Only a couple of small holes to go. Next weekend I should be able to finish it up to where it wont leak anymore. I just need to get some more JB Weld Steel Stick and more flex seal. That Flex seal works pretty good. They have some that is pourable as well. Thats what im going to finish it off with once the seam sealer dries.

I also changed out my IAC Valve. The other one is 6 years old now and was damn dirty. It was all carbon thankfully and not any goo at all, which is a good sign. I dont really drive this truck on many short trips, hopefully that is keeping the sludge down to a minimum. I run nothing but Mobile 1 in it as well, so that helps too.

The damn limp mode is still fairly random. I dove it today and it shifted like butter all the way to the 7-11, then on the way back it was in limp mode most of the way, then started shifting good. Im thinking about re-wiring the feed from the Sensor on the rear axle up to the body harness connector. That will be a shitty job, im not looking forward to it. Im going to get a new motorcraft speed sensor, see if that helps, if not, I will have eliminated one section of trouble. I may order another PSOM from ebay and see if that helps. If so, I can send the old one off to be fixed and use the other as a spare.
 

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I finished up the cowl repair today. It's not pretty but I don't think it will leak anymore.

I filled the holes with epoxy putty, then a skim coat of seam sealer. Then several coats of flex seal.

153964
153966
 

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I pulled my psom out to photograph the board and get it ready to send up to Jacksonville for repairs. To me, I don't see any leakages like on other boards I've seen, but the solder joints all look crappy to me.

I suppose its headed out for repair Monday.
154093
154094
 

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Discussion Starter #1,793
Psom came in last week. Took some time to look it over. All caps were replaced and the pancake device. Several of the solder joints on numerous components were redone.

The work was done by module mechanics in the Jacksonville fl area. I found them on ebay. They did an excellent job and they only charged $89. I highly recommend them if you need the repair.

So I put my cluster back together and fired it up. Everything worked. So I shut it off. Disconnected the hot battery lead and grounded it to the fender for 10 seconds. This completely clears the computer. Hooked it all up and took it for a drive. Shifting was a bit iffy at first, but after one time thru the gears it got better. After 15 miles it was shifting like butter. I have only had it out that one time. So if it still shifts good next drive, it might be fixed.
 

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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" on 33's
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For that price and solid work on a very hard to find part for our rigs, sharing a link to the business might be greatly appreciated. ;)
 

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Yes thats the one!



Im happy to report that after driving 4 or 5 times today, everything is working perfectly. In the 10 + years I have owned this rig, it has NEVER run and shifted this good. Hard to believe that all my shifting trouble over the years was caused by a intermittent PSOM. But looks like it was. Im glad I FINALLY got it figured out.

So today, I took it out and ran the AC. Yea the freon was super low. Its been a good 5 years or more since I messed with the AC system. I dunno where the charge went, but I suppose it has a leak somewhere. So I went up to the Zone, and got a can of R134a and it ate the whole thing and still wanted more. I just went with the 1 can for now. It says it stops leaks and it has the dye in it. So I will drive the old girl to work the rest of the week after I get it all put back together tonight and then this weekend I will check the AC pressures again and see what its got. Then I will use my Black light to look for leaks. Hopefully its just a leaky O-ring and the leak stop will stop it.

Well back to the garage. I have alot to put back together.
 

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im still having issues with the PSOM. im going to send it back in for more work. Im pretty sure its just a loose solder joint since when it loses power i can tap on the gauge cluster and it comes back on. Now that everything is working pretty good again, im noticing how bad the vibration in the front end is at 70 mph. I think im going to have to take it in for a alignment and I know what they are going to say. That my pivot bushing needs to be replaced and other suspension shit. I have the durango and the mustang needing a full suspension replacement due to being worn out. The mustang is so worn out the tires are rubbing.
 

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I finally got the chance to send out my PSOM again, and they found more trouble. I got it back today, it works, but it doesnt work. It wont shift right, so I ordered one off of ebay. Hopefully that one will work. They told me it was a crap shoot if the repairs will fix everything or not. So thats just how it goes. It probably has issues with one of the IC's.
 

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My new board came in for the psom. I took the 10 minutes to swap the board out and now it works better than it ever has. It's like a new truck again. I'm glad I stuck with conquering the psom issue. I knew that was the problem.
 
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