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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" on 33's
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go with your gut! good on ya bud.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,803
Thanks guys.

So, now that its working again....

Its time to put the interior back together and finish installing the Stereo and repairing the tailgate window power issues.

Ive been working on it this morning getting prepared. Here is the plan so far.....

I need to pull out the table from the back. Then pull the right inside rear panel. Then pull the carpet. Then I need to cut and fit a sheet of 1/2" Plywood to the floor. Im using this as an anchor for the subwoofer and the Table. When the Sub and Table go back in, I can use screws to screw them both to the plywood under the carpet. Hopefully that is enough to keep them from becoming a projectile in an accident. Once that is cut out and in place, I can put the carpet back down. Then I have to finish running the power cables, signal cables to the amps, and the remote start blue wire. Once that is done, Im going to go ahead and fix the tailgate issue. One of our members recently posted a quick and easy solution to doing the relay mod on the tailgate window motor. I have that all Pre-wired and ready to install. One thing different though, my key switch has NEVER worked. I was able to locate an NOS harness from a 77 station wagon which is an exact match for an older bronco. My 94 has different connectors but thats the only difference. So im going to pull out the complete tailgate harness from the connector behind the bumper all the way to the window motor. Then im going to splice in my new harness and replace the old connector behind the bumper with a new 4 pole weather pack connector. That should help the signal path. Then I can put the new key switch in and secure the relay harness inside the tailgate and run the wires back thru the grommet and thru the tail light back down behind the bumper. Then I can run the new power wire under the carpet trim and over to the new power point. Then I can cut the old connector off behind the bumper, wire in the new weather pack connector and it should be good to go. That will solve the rear window issues hopefully.

Then for the stereo, I just need to pull the wires under the rear side panel and tie it into the junction box on the table and the blue remote start wire, hook up the signal cables and the speaker cables and it will be done. Then I can put the interior back together and put the passenger seat back in.

Probably will take me the entire weekend to get it done, but that is my goal.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,804
Making progress, I got all the crap out of the back. Got the old amp disconnected. Then we went to work on the tailgate wiring. It took alot of effort to disconnect the connector behind the bumper. We ended up breaking the connector body to get it apart. Once apart the pins were fairly corroded and one was broken almost completely inside the connector. I don't think we broke it either. Might have happened at the factory.

Next I pulled the harness back thru the tail light housing. Then I realized that the window was down. Shit! So I happened to have an old car battery but it was dead. So I pulled loose the motor connector, cut 2 short lengths of wire, then hooked up the charger to the battery, closed the latch to trip the safety switch, then I was able to put the window up. Whew, never actually done it like that, but I've read countless threads about people doing it that way. It worked like a charm.

So now I can get to the key switch and safety switch and disconnect them and pull the whole harness out so I can splice in the new key switch and relay setup.

THe old girl hasnt been this naked in several years. Still looks like the sound deadening is holding up fine to the Florida sweltering heat.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,805
Making good progress so far. Havent even cut myself yet, which is amazing.

We got the complete TG wiring harness out. Now I can cut it up and splice in the NOS 77 Station wagon key switch and the relay mod.

The new harness will not have the safety switch or the defrost leads. I dont need them.

That was a fairly giant pain in the ass.

 

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Discussion Starter #1,806
This harness has been spliced before.

And the wiring is chafed. I'll have to cut that part out.

I'm going to use the ground wire from the defrost to be the ground for the relays.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,807
I got the harness all spliced together. Mostly installed. I just need to crawl under the back end and cut the connector and crimp on the new pins for the weather pack connector. Then I will have it back to normal operation and then I can start on the relay Mod.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,808 (Edited)
I managed to get some meaningful work done even though its late.

I pulled the new harness thru the tail light area, then dissected the female half of the TG harness and removed the pins. What a pain in the ass that was. Then I cut the wires right at the back of the pins so I have the maximum amount of wire to work with, which aint much. The bitch is going to be putting the new weather pak pins on the cut wires with almost zero room and zero extra length of wire. The old connector leaked and all the pins were corroded.

It shouldnt take too long to get the pins on hopefully, it just wont be any fun at all.

I know this is going to work fantastic when its all done. When I ran the window directly off a battery right at the tailgate, the window moved so strong and fast like ive never seen it move before. Once It has direct to battery power from the relays it should work just as good. I thought I would have been much farther along today, but DAMN it was 104° in the garage with 4 box fans running. Its hard to work for long under those conditions.
 

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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" on 33's
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sounds like a solid days progress. that all looks entirely too familiar. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #1,810
I hear ya Pepe, I've been avoiding this job for at least 5 years. I know I've had the parts that long.

Getting this thing running right has motivated me to work on it again. Its been pretty sad the last few years. It's been broke more than it's not. I think I finally got the last thing fixed as far as how it runs. I still have a very long list of maintenance that needs to be done. My biggest one is rebuilding the front axle. I really need a new pivot bushing. Mine is about toast. I'm sure it would also love some u joints and a fluid change. I'd hate to imagine how much a pivot bushing is going to cost me.
 

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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" on 33's
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I'm right there with ya but at least mines running good. After the 2 time engine swap and now Dad's 400 head rebuild, I've got boxes and boxes of parts that have already been waiting probably 2 years and a whole other '78 waiting for some love. It's tough to stay motivated when it's always something... but when you can't even enjoy driving it, that is a serious drain.

Hang in there. Sounds like you'll be enjoying it again soon. You've put a lot of time and quality work into her.
 
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Discussion Starter #1,812 (Edited)
I spent half the day working on the bronco. I finally got the cluster finish installed and the gear indicator hooked up. Then I got the cluster bezel on. Next I had to pull up the carpet and remove the old rca signal wires and then prep the new rca cables for install. I also got a new roll of wire from lowes for the amp remote power. Taped that up with the signal wires. Then I realized I had not run the remote bass knob. So I pulled out the lower dash trim that goes under the steering column and mounted the remote knob in the pocket and drilled a hole for the wires. Then ran them thru the dash and tie wrapped in place under the dash. Then added it to the signal wire bundle going back to the amps.

I have had the table in the bronco for the last year simply for storage, but its given me a chance to evaluate the concept and I've concluded that I don't like it. So I spent some time redesigning the amp rack.

Today I'm going to finish up the tailgate window wiring and hopefully have enough time left to cut out the new amp rack and put that together. I still need to finish up uninstalling the old power distribution on the rear side panel, then I can install the new power wires and distribution. Once that is complete I can run the power wire for the tailgate window and install the relay setup. I'm using the setup put together by @Bruners4. That leaves the stock harness in tact and adds the relays on similar to the headlight relay setup. I just have to figure out the best place to secure the relays.

Hopefully by the end of tonight, I'll have the tailgate window back on stock operation, the amp rack completely built and the old power removed and the new power run. It sounds like alot, but I've got most of it all done.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,813 (Edited)
One giant bitch, I cant locate the frame that mounts to the dash to hold my head unit. I looked everywhere it could be with no luck. That means it's in some container in the barn. Theres over 100 in there and it's not worth the trouble to look for it, so I'm going to just order a new head unit. I'm torn on this. I've always had CD receivers, but I find that I don't even own any CD's anymore so I'm thinking about getting a digital media receiver instead. Its literally been at least 15 years since my last CD purchase so I think I'm safe. Looking online at sonic and crutchfield, the pickings are fairly slim. Most everything is out of stock at sonic, crutchfield is a bit better.

I think I'm leaning towards this kenwood unit. It checks off all the boxes including 5 volt preamp outs. One cool thing I like about it is it's very short. Only 4 inches front to back, which will give needed room for all the wiring behind it. Hopefully I can get this coming my way today.

 

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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" on 33's
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Bummer the platform hasn't worked out for ya. As you know, I love mine. Look forward to seeing the next iteration.
I would have expected you to go with one of the newer touch screen options over the thin digi. I still have CD's in mine... but like you, I haven't actually used them in so long. Just never really thought about removing 'em I guess.
 

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I've been looking for a newer head unit for mine and the one that you picked has the same appearance as the Kenwood that I currently have but with a lot of newer features that I could use! I wonder if the wiring adapter on the older head unit will work without modifications with the new X704?
Also, it is forecasted to be cooler this week and I'll have an open garage space to work on the '96. I'll try to get some pictures for you.
 

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The wiring should be the same.

I opted to go the cheap route. I found the support cage on ebay for $12. Never thought I would find one but it came right up. So I'm keeping the same head unit for now. Maybe kenwood will get off their ass and update the stupid app. I'll give them another shot next spring.
 

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I did some wood working tonight. I have my new amp rack made. I just need to paint it black.
 

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Super Moderator
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Discussion Starter #1,819
Power!

That's the over 50 hz amp. 400 watts x 4. Probably 200watts rms x 4, still very beefy.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,820 (Edited)
Power distribution block. Top side is power 1 in 2 out each separately fused. Other side is ground 2 in 1 out.

Also incoming power from the battery. 2 1/0 leads with secondary fuses. Power for the tailgate relays will feed from the secondary fuse block.

Theres another set of fuses under the hood too.
 

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