Full Size Ford Bronco Forum banner

1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
Registered
1995 Ford Bronco XLT
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Finally, I received my 95 Bronco today. (XLT, 5.8, E4OD, 173k miles) I purchased without seeing it in person, so I was expecting some more stuff than usual. Of course it did:) Like drivers side door not opening from inside, drivers side window needs help while closing, tailgate window needs help while closing, tailgate window does not work from the inside switch, whinning sound from steering pump etc... I think all of them are chronic stuff to Bronco's I can do some of them, but for sure I need pro help for some of them. The main reason for this purchase was because it is rust free, which I am really happy to see it really is rust free. (I mean it) No engine check lights, for now:)) I do not have any history about the car, so I need to do or have it done general maintenance stuff for sure.

Another strange thing is, it looks like a cheap paint repair job was done on a very small part of hood, like there was a fire before. But under the hood the paint looks all original, I don't know why. It is a Utah origin Nevada car and came from Los Angeles, I don't know if sun makes that kind of damage and needed to be paint. Other than that, interior is fine, rims are great, I like the tire carrier and front bull bar etc. I wish I could find a red/white or green/white one, but could not:) May be next time... Here are the photos:
 

Attachments

·
Registered
1995 Ford Bronco XLT
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
And interior:
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
If it is not a Bronco, it's just not worth driving.....
Joined
·
1,209 Posts
Nice looking rig ! Congrats!

Your hood paint sounds like the clear coat is coming off. My clear coat came off in the very same way. Check your roof, I bet the paint on the roof isn't far behind as far as coming off.

All of the issues you have listed are covered in great detail on this forum.

You can check out this thread about the door handle. On post 15 of the thread linked below I posted a fix for a common problem for the door latches wearing out causing you to have to pull really hard to get the door open. After doing these repairs, my truck door opens so easily now it is a night and day difference.

Door handle help please
 

·
Registered
1995 Ford Bronco XLT
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Nice looking rig ! Congrats!

Your hood paint sounds like the clear coat is coming off. My clear coat came off in the very same way. Check your roof, I bet the paint on the roof isn't far behind as far as coming off.

All of the issues you have listed are covered in great detail on this forum.

You can check out this thread about the door handle. On post 15 of the thread linked below I posted a fix for a common problem for the door latches wearing out causing you to have to pull really hard to get the door open. After doing these repairs, my truck door opens so easily now it is a night and day difference.

Door handle help please
Thanks buddy! I will do it as soon as stay at home order is gone, all of the stores are closed:(
 

·
Registered
82 XLT Lariat 351w, Edelbrock 1406 4bbl ,C6 auto, auto locking hubs ,33x10.5x15
Joined
·
1,825 Posts
Nice! Congrats 👍 I remember when mine arrived. Same situation as u... Never saw it in person, came from a dealer in Texas after a life in Arkansas (unboxing video in my build thread).. Looked great in the pix and the video walk around with it running... But they didn't show starting it... And that's where all her "unmentioned surprises" started...
Yours is sweet tho...I love the blue interior with white exterior... The way it should be but usually all u find is the red interior. Also since she needs painted u could always 2 tone her... That interior would look nice with blue 2 tone on the outside.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Very nice bronco . I remember the first time I seem mine it was lifted and so plan . It had no tinted windows and so much chrome. It had 15 inch dick cepeck rims and 33s but I have done so much to it to make it look good other then paint.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
1995 Ford Bronco XLT
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Nice! Congrats 👍 I remember when mine arrived. Same situation as u... Never saw it in person, came from a dealer in Texas after a life in Arkansas (unboxing video in my build thread).. Looked great in the pix and the video walk around with it running... But they didn't show starting it... And that's where all her "unmentioned surprises" started...
Yours is sweet tho...I love the blue interior with white exterior... The way it should be but usually all u find is the red interior. Also since she needs painted u could always 2 tone her... That interior would look nice with blue 2 tone on the outside.
Thank you BroncoMom! Like I said, most important thing for me was a decent body and I was prepared for all unmentioned stuff:)) I wish I won’t have any big issues like engine or tranny...
 

·
Registered
1995 Ford Bronco XLT
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Very nice bronco . I remember the first time I seem mine it was lifted and so plan . It had no tinted windows and so much chrome. It had 15 inch dick cepeck rims and 33s but I have done so much to it to make it look good other then paint.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thank you:)
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
24,166 Posts
Yo Mehmet,
Congrats!
No CEL⚠😁⚠⚠⚠

Url


All '80-96 t/g wiring runs from the dash switch (F2TZ-14529-A Motorcraft SW7071 ~$25~65) out the firewall along the frame to the rear bumper up to the L taillight and into the t/g. '80-86 have a large round 3-wire connector in the LHR taillight well; those with rear defrost also have a 1-wire connector. All years with rear defrost have a ground ring screwed to the body in the taillight well. I think '87-91 have the large round connector in front of the taillight AND a smaller round 4-wire connector inside the frame at the LHR body mount. '92-96 only have the frame connector.

Normal operation is as follows:
RAISE from the dash switch:
Power flows thru fuse 14 thru the LB/BK wire thru the IP switch UP contacts thru the P/LG wire thru the key switch UP contacts thru the Y/R wire to the motor brushes, commutator, & windings; then it grounds thru the motor's internal CB, out thru the R/Y wire thru the latch switch thru the T/Bk wire thru the key switch DOWN contacts thru the Pk/LB wire thru the IP switch DOWN contacts to the Bk wire to the ground in the kick panel (or dash on older Broncos).

LOWER from the dash switch:
Power flows thru fuse 14 thru the LB/BK wire thru the IP switch DOWN contacts thru the Pk/LB wire thru the key switch DOWN contacts thru the T/Bk wire thru the latch switch thru the R/Y wire thru the motor's internal CB to the motor brushes, commutator, & windings; then it grounds out thru the Y/R wire thru the key switch UP contacts thru the P/LG wire thru the IP switch UP contacts to the Bk wire to the ground in the kick panel (or dash on older Broncos).

RAISE from the key switch:
Power flows thru fuse 12 thru the BK/Wh wire thru the key switch thru the UP contacts thru the Y/R wire to the motor brushes, commutator, & windings; then it grounds thru the motor's internal CB out thru the R/Y wire thru the latch switch thru the T/Bk wire thru the key switch DOWN contacts thru the Pk/LB wire thru the IP switch DOWN contacts to the Bk wire to the ground in the kick panel (or dash on older Broncos).

LOWER from the key switch:
Power flows thru fuse 12 thru the BK/Wh wire thru the key switch DOWN contacts thru the T/Bk wire thru the latch switch thru the R/Y wire thru the motor's internal CB to the motor brushes, commutator, & windings; then it grounds out thru the Y/R wire thru the key switch UP contacts thru the P/LG wire thru the IP switch UP contacts to the Bk wire to the ground in the kick panel (or dash on older Broncos).

Note that in ALL cases, EVERY switch is used, and the circuit ALWAYS grounds at the same point.

To eliminate/bypass the dash switch, unplug it & install 2 jumpers as described in the "neutral position" within the diagram. If that text isn't legible, click the pic to supersize it. The following diagram shows how to semipermanently bypass either switch, as well as some other modifications. By Sreve


Tailgate Lubrication:
Weatherstripping;
"Apply dry (Teflon) lube to the flocked surfaces that touch the glass on the intetior part of the horizontal "glass run" weatherstrip. Dry lube prevents noise & abrasion, and allows the glass to move faster; take off the TG access cover and spray slides & tracks with PTFE in the tracks on either side so the regulator toggles slide up and down easy"
by JKossarides

Ford recommends, "Use Silicone Lubricant C0AZ-19553-AA (jelly) and D7AZ-19553-AA (spray) or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESR-M13P4-A on the door and glass weatherstrips whenever necessary. Silicone lubricant helps avoid weatherstrip squeaks and retards excess weatherstrip wear from chafing between the door glass upper frame and the weatherstrip. It also helps to retain door glass alignment by reducing friction between the glass frame and the rubber weatherstrip. miesk5 note, test the silicone on a regular styrofoam cup first; if the cup gets funky or melts, then the can or tube contans oil, a regular occurrence now, esp if from China

Regulator, Hinge,
Use Multi-Purpose Grease to lubricate regulator, door and tailgate hinges. Apply an even coat to all hinge pivot points as outlined in the maintenance schedules or when a binding or squeaking condition occurs..."
➡ENJOY YOUR Bronco⚠
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
63 Posts
Very nice Bronco. The paint looks good in pictures and interior looks complete without damage. Enjoy working on it and driving it. Nothing like the feeling of driving these big tanks.
 

·
Registered
1995 Ford Bronco XLT
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Yo Mehmet,
Congrats!
No CEL⚠😁⚠⚠⚠

Url


All '80-96 t/g wiring runs from the dash switch (F2TZ-14529-A Motorcraft SW7071 ~$25~65) out the firewall along the frame to the rear bumper up to the L taillight and into the t/g. '80-86 have a large round 3-wire connector in the LHR taillight well; those with rear defrost also have a 1-wire connector. All years with rear defrost have a ground ring screwed to the body in the taillight well. I think '87-91 have the large round connector in front of the taillight AND a smaller round 4-wire connector inside the frame at the LHR body mount. '92-96 only have the frame connector.

Normal operation is as follows:
RAISE from the dash switch:
Power flows thru fuse 14 thru the LB/BK wire thru the IP switch UP contacts thru the P/LG wire thru the key switch UP contacts thru the Y/R wire to the motor brushes, commutator, & windings; then it grounds thru the motor's internal CB, out thru the R/Y wire thru the latch switch thru the T/Bk wire thru the key switch DOWN contacts thru the Pk/LB wire thru the IP switch DOWN contacts to the Bk wire to the ground in the kick panel (or dash on older Broncos).

LOWER from the dash switch:
Power flows thru fuse 14 thru the LB/BK wire thru the IP switch DOWN contacts thru the Pk/LB wire thru the key switch DOWN contacts thru the T/Bk wire thru the latch switch thru the R/Y wire thru the motor's internal CB to the motor brushes, commutator, & windings; then it grounds out thru the Y/R wire thru the key switch UP contacts thru the P/LG wire thru the IP switch UP contacts to the Bk wire to the ground in the kick panel (or dash on older Broncos).

RAISE from the key switch:
Power flows thru fuse 12 thru the BK/Wh wire thru the key switch thru the UP contacts thru the Y/R wire to the motor brushes, commutator, & windings; then it grounds thru the motor's internal CB out thru the R/Y wire thru the latch switch thru the T/Bk wire thru the key switch DOWN contacts thru the Pk/LB wire thru the IP switch DOWN contacts to the Bk wire to the ground in the kick panel (or dash on older Broncos).

LOWER from the key switch:
Power flows thru fuse 12 thru the BK/Wh wire thru the key switch DOWN contacts thru the T/Bk wire thru the latch switch thru the R/Y wire thru the motor's internal CB to the motor brushes, commutator, & windings; then it grounds out thru the Y/R wire thru the key switch UP contacts thru the P/LG wire thru the IP switch UP contacts to the Bk wire to the ground in the kick panel (or dash on older Broncos).

Note that in ALL cases, EVERY switch is used, and the circuit ALWAYS grounds at the same point.

To eliminate/bypass the dash switch, unplug it & install 2 jumpers as described in the "neutral position" within the diagram. If that text isn't legible, click the pic to supersize it. The following diagram shows how to semipermanently bypass either switch, as well as some other modifications. By Sreve


Tailgate Lubrication:
Weatherstripping;
"Apply dry (Teflon) lube to the flocked surfaces that touch the glass on the intetior part of the horizontal "glass run" weatherstrip. Dry lube prevents noise & abrasion, and allows the glass to move faster; take off the TG access cover and spray slides & tracks with PTFE in the tracks on either side so the regulator toggles slide up and down easy"
by JKossarides

Ford recommends, "Use Silicone Lubricant C0AZ-19553-AA (jelly) and D7AZ-19553-AA (spray) or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESR-M13P4-A on the door and glass weatherstrips whenever necessary. Silicone lubricant helps avoid weatherstrip squeaks and retards excess weatherstrip wear from chafing between the door glass upper frame and the weatherstrip. It also helps to retain door glass alignment by reducing friction between the glass frame and the rubber weatherstrip. miesk5 note, test the silicone on a regular styrofoam cup first; if the cup gets funky or melts, then the can or tube contans oil, a regular occurrence now, esp if from China

Regulator, Hinge,
Use Multi-Purpose Grease to lubricate regulator, door and tailgate hinges. Apply an even coat to all hinge pivot points as outlined in the maintenance schedules or when a binding or squeaking condition occurs..."
➡ENJOY YOUR Bronco⚠
Now these are real information👍👍👍 Thanks buddy!
 

·
Registered
1995 Ford Bronco XLT
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Very nice Bronco. The paint looks good in pictures and interior looks complete without damage. Enjoy working on it and driving it. Nothing like the feeling of driving these big tanks.
Thanks much! Actually the paint is really in good condition, except the cheap touch up on the hood, which is not important for me at all. The main reason for selling the 67 Galaxie 500 and buying a 95 Bronco is to get rid of paying paint job too much😂
 

·
Addicted to Junk
85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
Joined
·
11,467 Posts
Looks real nice! That blue interior brings back memories lol

The best cure for a whining steering pump is to swap to a Saginaw from an econoline.
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Top