[norcal_bronco]

wats up guys. so today sucked.I went to dmv paid my tags. and then went to get a smog inspection. it didnt pass, the guy said that it wasnt accelerating up to 25/25? he says the 4x4 might be trying to kick in,causing extra strain on the motor? he recommended i take it to a tranny shop(no pun intended) any help from the bronco gurus?

 

[psychlopath]

I say turn it in to a political statement and move outta that state! I never looked back.

But seriously. It's been a long time since I had to deal with CA smog. If you fail, do you get a grace period for a re-test, or do you have to pay all over again? If you have a grace period and you have the pushbutton transfer case (Which I'm guessing you must for the ref to guess like that...) pull the plug on the case so it cant attempt to go into 4wd. And then run a multimeter across that plug to see if youre getting voltage there with the button off.

I dont know what could cause it to "Try," to go in unless you have a short in the wiring some where. Something intermittently grounding, maybe. I dont think that has any computer involved there.
Have you checked for any codes?
Double checked the timing?
Do you know that the plugs are good and gapped properly?
Have you done any of the basic troubleshooting?

When you said that it's not accelerating to 25/25, does that mean that it's not actually getting TO that speed??

I'm just shooting in the dark here. Which is how I shoot best.

 

[Jasonhughes2009]

i would also ask the question of do YOU haxve trouble getting it to 25? can you ask him for more details about what its doing when its trying to get to 25?

 

[Bruno2]

I say turn it in to a political statement and move outta that state! I never looked back.

We dont have gun restrictions here either. TX does have the bomb ass self defense laws though. You can shoot people over property there instead of having to be in fear of grave bodily harm or your life. We have better football teams here in OK though.

 

[norcal_bronco]

yeh ca sucks for that reason but its all ive known since the beginning haha.. well since i payed my tags and registration im good for another year, problem isthe "fix it" permit is only good for couple months. im going to end up taking to a shop to check it out. yeah i do have trouble getting it to 25. it seems to take a while to pick up. i guess that could be a reason. i should check the codes. my buddy suggested i buy a code reader from autozone, write down the codes, then return the reader and hand them the codes and have them read them for me. whew.. he said autozone used to go out and read codes. but stopped because they were not ase certified, go figure. He wasnt too specific on what it could be . he just told me what he thought i should do, charged me 20 bucks, and sent me on my way. I hope i can get this resolved soon..

 

[SnowTom]

yeh ca sucks for that reason but its all ive known since the beginning haha.. well since i payed my tags and registration im good for another year, problem isthe "fix it" permit is only good for couple months. im going to end up taking to a shop to check it out. yeah i do have trouble getting it to 25. it seems to take a while to pick up. i guess that could be a reason. i should check the codes. my buddy suggested i buy a code reader from autozone, write down the codes, then return the reader and hand them the codes and have them read them for me. whew.. he said autozone used to go out and read codes. but stopped because they were not ase certified, go figure. He wasnt too specific on what it could be . he just told me what he thought i should do, charged me 20 bucks, and sent me on my way. I hope i can get this resolved soon..

If you want help here, you need to give us more info than you failed. What engine, trans, how many miles, what's the history, yours and the broncos, origninal cats? Codes would certainly help.

 

[Jasonhughes2009]

yeh ca sucks for that reason but its all ive known since the beginning haha.. well since i payed my tags and registration im good for another year, problem isthe "fix it" permit is only good for couple months. im going to end up taking to a shop to check it out. yeah i do have trouble getting it to 25. it seems to take a while to pick up. i guess that could be a reason. i should check the codes. my buddy suggested i buy a code reader from autozone, write down the codes, then return the reader and hand them the codes and have them read them for me. whew.. he said autozone used to go out and read codes. but stopped because they were not ase certified, go figure. He wasnt too specific on what it could be . he just told me what he thought i should do, charged me 20 bucks, and sent me on my way. I hope i can get this resolved soon..

its actually illegal in california for autozone/oriellys/pep boys etc. to go out and pull codes from your vehicle... all you really need a paper clip to do it... you can even go do it right now and get the codes to us sooner :toothless

 

[psychlopath]

its actually illegal in california for autozone/oriellys/pep boys etc. to go out and pull codes from your vehicle... all you really need a paper clip to do it... you can even go do it right now and get the codes to us sooner :toothless

+1K.

Find the walk through (Check the stickies, there is a link inside one of them, I'm pretty sure) on how to pull the codes by jumpering pin X with pin Y and counting check engine light blips. I was thrilled when I found out I could do that with my 95.

Can you post what, exactly, didnt pass? Besides having trouble getting to that speed, there should be a list of emissions, CO2, NoX, etc, etc. Then it'll have a MAX and a MEAS(ured) value. I, in particular, cant really diagnose things from those, but people here can.

More info = better here.

Dont just start replacing parts to fix things, that can get expensive. If it's having a hard time geting up to 25, let us know what it's doing.

Have you done any maintenance or troubleshooting? Pulled or changed plugs? Replaced any vacuum hoses that may be cracked? Checked transmission fluid level and condition?

If you need help with any of the super basic maintenance stuff, do a search on here and if you cant figure it out, post.

There have been posts as basic as "How do I change oil," and they get responses.

EDIT: Here's one of the still working links on how to pull those codes http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/245234

 

[norcal_bronco]

im taking it to a shop today. to get it diagnosed hopefully every thing works out . only problem is since ive been cut hrs at my work i can only really invest $2000 into my bronco. man times suck.

 

[Jasonhughes2009]

if you can only invest 2k than you should've pulled codes yourself and maybe you could've been ablew to do the fix yourself dude

 

[JKossarides]

Why didn't you come here first BEFORE you smogged so we all could have pointed you in the right direction to help fix or resolve the problem?

I agree with everyone here that you need to become more self reliant working on your own Bronco yourself, you'll save a ton of money and become more proficient mechanically rather then throwing money at a problem or take it to someone who's going to charge you up the WAAAAAASSSSSSUUU.

What is the date on the "fix it" document they gave you, it's usually 60 days, no?

If you need more time you can go to a local DMV Referee and extend that time but it's another fee $$$, this information is on the CA DMV website probably thru the BAR = Bureau of Automotive Repair...check it out.

Spend the $29.99 and buy either OBD-I or II Ford Code Reader & book and learn How To "pull codes" it's quick, accuarte and easier to use then a paper clip unless you're willing to kill brain cells....lol lol...the diagnostic book contains "numerous tests" you can perform for different purposes and worth it's weight IMO.

Unfortunately www.fordfuelinejction.com is down due to legal problems.

Once you resolve this transfer case issue, check out this thread for future smog reference and it'll make life much easier the next time you have to smog. I done failed my smog test (tears) by FSB member Sixlitre - typed in the "search" browser.

Good Luck ~ :thumbup

 

[norcal_bronco]

Why didn't you come here first BEFORE you smogged so we all could have pointed you in the right direction to help fix or resolve the problem?

I agree with everyone here that you need to become more self reliant working on your own Bronco yourself, you'll save a ton of money and become more proficient mechanically rather then throwing money at a problem or take it to someone who's going to charge you up the wassssuuuu.

What is the date on the "fix it" document they gave you, it's usually 60 days, no?

If you need more time you can go to a local DMV Referee and extend that time but it's another fee $$$, this information is on the CA DMV website probably thru the BAR = Bureau of Automotive Repair...check it out.

Spend the $29.99 and buy either OBD-I or II Ford Code Reader & book and learn How To "pull codes" it's quick, accuarte and easier to use then a paper clip unless you're willing to kill brain cells....lol lol...the diagnostic book contains "numerous tests" you can perform for different purposes and worth it weight IMO.

Unfortunately www.fordfuelinejction.com is down due to legal problems.

Once you resolve this transfer case issue, check out this thread for future smog reference and it'll make life much easier the next time you have to smog. I done failed my smog test (tears) by FSB member Sixlitre - typed in the "search" browser.

Good Luck ~ :thumbup

well the the po, had smogged the bronco back in febuary, so i thought hey the truck should pass. but im going to take your advise and purchase a code reader. ill keep you guys updated and thanks alot.

 

[norcal_bronco]

i have one more question. My 95 bronco doesnt have a check engine light on. it does however have a abs light on.?

also i heard that the obd1 scanner isnt effective if the check engine light isnt on?

 

[SnowTom]

i have one more question. My 95 bronco doesnt have a check engine light on. it does however have a abs light on.?

also i heard that the obd1 scanner isnt effective if the check engine light isnt on?

Readers run a check of your sensors during the Key On Engine Off part of the test. Then it checks the EEC memory for any codes that have come up over a period of time before the test. And, finally they check for current codes during the Key On Engine Running portion of the test. What you heard was totally false.

 

[norcal_bronco]

Readers run a check of your sensors during the Key On Engine Off part of the test. Then it checks the EEC memory for any codes that have come up over a period of time before the test. And, finally they check for current codes during the Key On Engine Running portion of the test. What you heard was totally false.

thanks for clearing it up man

 

[dezerthorse]

my advise, ask in your local area if there is any people who do dmv paper work, like change of owner, late fees, and smog registrations, and the waiting time. they know the inside and out of the system, who can point you to the right direction, to a shop that can help you, if you know what I mean.

 

[norcal_bronco]

my advise, ask in your local area if there is any people who do dmv paper work, like change of owner, late fees, and smog registrations, and the waiting time. they know the inside and out of the system, who can point you to the right direction, to a shop that can help you, if you know what I mean.

yeah i think i do haha that will probly be my last resort though

 

[miesk5]

yo,
Here is a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)s by my pal, BroncoJoe19

The engine temperature must be greater than 50° F for the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) Self-Test & greater than 180° F for the Key On Engine Running (KOER) Self-Test.

Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears incl Reverse. Then turn off all accessories/lights, etc.

Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic) or in Neutral for a Manual & release clutch.

Do Key On Engine Off (KOEO) portion first.

Look Codes up in my broncolinks.com site using the new Search function.

And Post em here according to:
KOEO
&
KOER
---------

If the check engine light does not come on when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON, the system is malfunctioning or a previous owner or shop removed the bulb or bulb is burnt out; less likely is a bad CEL ckt.

=

abs light on; is it the Yellow (or amber to some)?
if so, you can do another test - just for for the 4WABS
by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net

Brake Light Overview in 92-96; "...All vehicles use a brake warning light in the instrument cluster to warn of system malfunctions. The red warning light for the brakes can show three things; that either the parking brake is not fully released, that the brake fluid level is low in the master cylinder reservoir or the vacuum pressure is low on diesel engine vehicles. The anti-lock brake system uses one amber ABS warning light to alert the driver of malfunctions in the system. The amber ABS warning light will come on for numerous reasons. It warns the driver that the ABS has been disabled. Normal power-assisted braking remains but the wheels can lock during a panic stop while the indicator is on. Certain procedures must be followed to find the concern in this situation. Refer to «Section 06-09B» in the Powertrain/Drivetrain Manual for diagnosis and testing of the system.The yellow anti-lock brake indicator lights up for approximately two seconds when the ignition switch lock cylinder is first moved to ON or START for circuit prove out. The indicator also lights up when the RABS module detects a malfunction in the system. The self-test feature contains codes that indicate the area of the malfunction. When a malfunction is detected, the RABS control module shuts down the system and the yellow anti-lock warning indicator comes on. This permits normal braking. A code can be retrieved by momentarily grounding the diagnostic pigtail (black with orange stripe wire) after it is disconnected from KAM (keep-alive power red wire) and counting the flashes of the yellow ABS lamp. To make sure the diagnostic trouble code (DTC) is not lost from memory, the ignition switch lock cylinder must be left in the ON position before the diagnostic lead is disconnected from KAM power. If more than one diagnostic trouble code exists, only the first code stored will be displayed. Additional codes will be output only after the first fault is corrected..." Source: by Steve83

 

[norcal_bronco]

hey guys i pulled codes, here are the codes i came up with. 654, 211, 212

 

[SnowTom]

hey guys i pulled codes, here are the codes i came up with. 654, 211, 212

Well, the 654 is MLP sensor not in Park. Did you have the car in Park or Neutral when you ran the test?

211 is PIP circuit fault and 212 is Loss of IDM input to PCM or Spout circuit grounded. Both of which have to do with the Dizzy, the PIP and TFI. I don't know what they are testing for but it seems like these would be KOER type tests. Did you pass the Engine off portion of the test, and were there no memory codes or were these the memory codes and you didn't run the Engine Running test?