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96 White OJ
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My symptoms started as distributor pickup coils going bad every 30 or so miles. I couldn't find any shorts or grounds so I finally found a motorcraft coil and it lasted but then it started eating ICMs. I tried a mechanic but after several months, a new computer and 10 ICMs they gave up and I got it back. I rewired all the wires involving the ICM. If I convert it to a grey push start style ICM it shuts down and starts after the ICM is reset. With the correct CCD black ICM in there it kills the pick up coil. This was my dad's bronco or I would give up since this first started becoming a curse a year ago. I started here, Gray to Black ICM any experience with this would be extremely appreciated thanks everyone
 

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My symptoms started as distributor pickup coils going bad every 30 or so miles. I couldn't find any shorts or grounds so I finally found a motorcraft coil and it lasted but then it started eating ICMs. I tried a mechanic but after several months, a new computer and 10 ICMs they gave up and I got it back. I rewired all the wires involving the ICM. If I convert it to a grey push start style ICM it shuts down and starts after the ICM is reset. With the correct CCD black ICM in there it kills the pick up coil. This was my dad's bronco or I would give up since this first started becoming a curse a year ago. I started here, Gray to Black ICM any experience with this would be extremely appreciated thanks everyone
I had the same problem with a Bronco II... it ended up getting crushed after doing everything you have done.
 

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95 5.8L MAF XLT, Hedman Shorties/MF SS Y & Muff, E4OD, Man hubs, KYB Quads, 31x10.5x15, 304K miles
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This is Electrical and being an M.E. it's not one of my specialties but back in the day the Wire feeding the Ignition system was either a Resistor wire or as in Mopars it had a Ballast Resistor inline. I don't know the Specs on our Broncos but someone on here who is an E.E. or a Sparky Tech or @miesk5 with all the Diagrams can chime in and add some more pertinent info on this subject/idea/thought. The Theory of the Resistor wire/inline Ballast Resistor was to limit the Voltage and or current to the Coil to keep it from over heating and Failing. So that is my contribution/thought on this Dilemma you are facing.
 

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Yo Bilbo,
Welcome and congrats on acquiring the best year Big Bronco known to man, woman and Canine kind!!

96 ,Bronco 5.0 ignition control module DY 1077 from Rock Auto is Genuine Ford Motorcraft®
On 21 May, 2019 I purchased a 96 Ford Bronco 5.0 ignition control module, Motorcraft® DY 1077 from Rock Auto.
I received it 23 May and noticed the usual Motorcraft® logo wasn't impressed on it.
The box looked the same as what I have purchased in past from our local Ford dealership.

I e mailed Ford Global Brand Protection and asked, "is this is a genuine Mototocraft part?"
Here's the reply;
"After reviewing the information you provided, the part you purchased appears to be genuine. The OE current model part does not have a Motorcraft/Ford logo on it and looks like the part in your photo. Since the vehicle model year for this part is very old the supplier of the part most likely has changed. Also we have not had any prior issues with Rock Auto selling non-genuine parts."

Ford Motor Company Global Brand Protection
Office: (313) 337-3663
North America: [email protected]
Europe: [email protected]
Asia Pacific:

"What Is Global Brand Protection?
The Global Brand Protection group exists to protect the consumer by ensuring high quality original equipment parts are used in your vehicle that are recommended by Ford Motor Company. Counterfeit products potentially compromise consumer expectations because they do not meet Ford Motor Company’s rigorous testing and quality control standards.

Global Brand Protection focuses on:
Preventing the distribution of and removing counterfeit parts from the marketplace
Ensuring that the company’s trademarks are used appropriately
Maintaining the integrity of the sale and distribution of Genuine Ford parts..."
Ford | Global Brand Protection

Was the 96 tested for OBD II Diagnostic Trouble Codes?
Such as;
DTC P1351 Ignition Diagnostic Monitor Circuit Input Fault "...P1351 can occur if the Igniton Module was replaced with the Gray one instead of a Black one. The ICM Should be Black in color for the CCD Type Module. Many Ford parts sources are incorrect and show that this vehicle should have a Grey module. The Motorcraft part number for the BLACK CCD Ignition Modules is a DY1077 (supercedes DY679, DY667, DY645)..."
Trouble Code: P1351 (5.8L V8 VIN H Auto)
Ignition Coil Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
Number of Trips to Set Code: 2
OBD II Monitor Type: CCM
Indicators: MIL
Trouble Code Conditions:
Engine started, and the PCM did not receive any valid IDM pulses from the ignition module for the Ignition Coil primary circuit.
Possible Causes:
  • Ignition START/RUN circuit is open or shorted to ground
  • Ignition coil driver circuit open, shorted to ground or to power
  • Ignition coil is damaged or it has failed
  • PCM has failed

Section 03-07A: Ignition, Distributor
1996 F-Series and Bronco with Gasoline Engines Workshop Manual​
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
Ignition Control Module
Removal


  1. Remove two screws retaining ignition control module (ICM) (12A297) heat sink assembly to left fender apron.
  1. Disconnect harness connector from ignition control module.
  1. Remove two screws retaining ignition control module to heat sink and remove ignition control module.
Installation

  1. Coat ignition control module baseplate with silicone compound, approximately 0.0179mm (1/32-inch) thick. Use Silicone Dielectric Compound (WA-10) D7AZ-19A331-A or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESE-M1C171-A.
  1. Position ignition control module onto heat sink and tighten two retaining screws to 1.2-1.8 Nm (11-16 lb-in).
  1. Install ignition control module heat sink assembly on left fender apron using two retaining screws, and tighten to 9-14 Nm (80-124 lb-in).
  1. Connect wiring to ignition control module.
177780

..." by Ford


See Dielectric Grease vs Thermal [email protected]

ASAP, find out if speed control recall work, if equipped was completed. If you still have concerns about Recalls, please contact the Ford Customer Relationship Center:
US: 800-392-3673 | CA: 800-565-3673
Note: 3673 spells "FORD" on phone keys
For the hearing- or speech-impaired: Please contact the Telecommunication Relay Service by dialing 71
... have VIN ready.
"Summary: ON CERTAIN PICKUP TRUCKS, PASSENGER VEHICLES, SPORT UTILITY VEHICLES, AND MOTOR HOMES CHASSIS, THE SPEED CONTROL DEACTIVATION SWITCH MAY, UNDER CERTAIN CONDITIONS, LEAK INTERNALLY AND THEN OVERHEAT, SMOKE, OR BURN. THIS COULD RESULT IN AN UNDERHOOD FIRE."
To confirm current status, use this guide by jowens1126 @ 93 & 94-96 Cruise Control Recalls Repair
Note that the 93 recall is different than the 94-96 recall.

For any Bronco questions or to chat about it's planned modifications, it's better to post each seperately in Noobie Bronco Tech Questions. Flame free zone. This will get more attention and you can build up your post count to get into other sections such as Bronco and Ford Parts/Accessories (50 posts required to participate due to scammers who preyed on our members.).

See Baba Looey's Favorite FSB Links (lots and lots of tech links), includes "how do I get the tailgate glass to...", etc.

Here's the 1996 Bronco/F-Series Workshop Manual partial

96 Bronco Owner's Guide, Maintenance Schedules & Parts and Accessories by Ford @ Owner Manuals | fleet.ford.com

96 Bronco Dealer Brochure @ 1996 Ford Bronco Technical Info pictures, videos, and sounds | SuperMotors.net ... scroll down

96 Bronco Quick Tips Brochure Excerpts & some Eddie Bauer options @ 1983 Ford Bronco 96 EB Bronco Brochures pictures, videos, and sounds | SuperMotors.net

See our Sites' FAQs, includes for example:
How to add your Signature
How To Save (Bookmark) Threads Or Posts
How To Search The Site
What is the Difference Between the Showcase and Gallery?
ETC.

Try to find time to participate and vote in our Next Full-Size of the Month Contest & later in the year, Full-Size of the Year Contest @ Voting
You will get ideas by those competing. Prizes are awarded to the winner; a full spread in Bronco Driver Magazine is the top prize, in addition to a years subscription, once the article is submitted; and a years worth of premium FSB membership.
Al
 

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When you replaced the ICM, did you clean off all the old heat sink compound and apply fresh heat sink compound? The ICM has that large heatsink to dissipate the large amount of heat generated by the ICM, without the heat sink compound to effectively transfer the heat, the ICM overheats and will fail. Ford used to put the ICM on the side of the distributor. That area is hot from the heat from the radiator and rising from the engine, so Ford moved it to the fenderwell. Next time you replace the ICM, clean off all the old heat sink compound and reapply a thin layer.
Heat sink compound has multiple names, see:
Thermal paste - Wikipedia
A common compound is Arctic Silver, available from any computer store.
 
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Have you ever had a code 212 by chance ? I went through a period of ignition problems ( not near as bad as yours though )

Anyways on my 91 there was a resistor in my icm harness that went toast, as stevo referenced, it was a son of a bitch to find that problem , but a new 12 cent resistor soldered in place and all those problems went away.

I don't even know if your year uses the resistor , since you are black icm and my 91 is grey.

Good luck , those electrical problems can be a nightmare. My 91 was close to getting crushed over that too
 

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96 White OJ
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
It is a CCD system, all parts stores are mistaken and call for the grey push start ICM. My next attempt is to put the 22k resistor back from the coil primary which simulates the signal the black ICM produces. That way when it fails I can restart it and not get towed anymore. Then the only thing left to do is replace all wires and all plugs, wires and coil and pickup coil all at once. If it keeps doing it after that I'll try to find an entire wiring harness to swap. FYI during this process I found that if you fill your seized up smog pump with Lucas red n tacky it works better than a new one.
 

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It is a CCD system, all parts stores are mistaken and call for the grey push start ICM. My next attempt is to put the 22k resistor back from the coil primary which simulates the signal the black ICM produces. That way when it fails I can restart it and not get towed anymore. Then the only thing left to do is replace all wires and all plugs, wires and coil and pickup coil all at once. If it keeps doing it after that I'll try to find an entire wiring harness to swap. FYI during this process I found that if you fill your seized up smog pump with Lucas red n tacky it works better than a new one.
I too had a similar problem with my 82. Mine was my magnetic pickup in my distributor. I am not sure when they would have fazed those out or upgraded them though. I paid $200 for a new HEI distributor and it has fired first time every time ever since.
 
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